(Topic ID: 97143)

TOTAN club! (fans welcome)

By mof

7 years ago


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  • 2,230 posts
  • 266 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Pinkitten
  • Topic is favorited by 135 Pinsiders

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There are 2230 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 45.
#2201 50 days ago

Non-Modder Approved

#2202 50 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Hey, I made a thing!
6 color changing/fading LED's within a pot of colored jewels. Guarded by a cobra.
My apologies to the non-moders out there.

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A tip of the hat Sir. Nicely done

#2204 48 days ago

FB06DDF2-1F28-4F65-9760-26C01327C245 (resized).jpeg

Just wanted to know what was under that Bazaar Cliffy. Looks like just a very small bit of chipping of the clear coat on the edge. I'll take It!

#2205 48 days ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

[quoted image]
Just wanted to know what was under that Bazaar Cliffy. Looks like just a very small bit of chipping of the clear coat on the edge. I'll take It!

Your scoop is missing…..

#2206 48 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Your scoop is missing…..

Thats It! I knew something was wrong…

#2208 47 days ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

[quoted image]
Just wanted to know what was under that Bazaar Cliffy. Looks like just a very small bit of chipping of the clear coat on the edge. I'll take It!

Are you leaving the Cliffy off? I bought one for mine, but it wouldn’t allow balls to eject after I installed it. Too tight. Even bending the scoop hood upward didn’t help. So I took it out. I put mylar around the scoop instead.

#2209 47 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Are you leaving the Cliffy off?

No, I put it back on. It is just the Cliffy not the Mantice. Mantice is great, but it does make that Bazaar shot harder. If your going to play it, you need some kind of protection.

#2210 47 days ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

No I put it back on. It is just the Cliffy not the Mantice. Mantice is great, but it does make that Bazaar shot harder. If your going to play it you need some kind of protection.

Mine isn’t the Mantis either, it was just the Cliffy. It still wouldn’t fit a ball after install. But my playfield is a CPR reproduction. The scoop hole may simply be too small. I even installed 2 different scoops to see if that fixed it. No luck.

#2211 47 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Mine isn’t the Mantis either, it was just the Cliffy. It still wouldn’t fit a ball after install. But my playfield is a CPR reproduction. The scoop hole may simply be too small. I even installed 2 different scoops to see if that fixed it. No luck.

Interesting! I had a CPR pf in my last TOTAN but I used a pf protector on that game instead of a Cliffy. You are probably better off without the Cliffy anyway. We don't play these games like they were played on location.

#2212 47 days ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Interesting! I had a CPR pf in my last TOTAN but I used a pf protector on that game instead of a Cliffy. You are probably better off without the Cliffy anyway. We don't play these games like they were played on location.

That’s for sure. I probably average only about 50-75 plays a year on each of my pins, although the first year I tend to play them a little more. So although I install Cliffy protectors on most of them, I may not need to.

2 weeks later
#2213 29 days ago

Just finished up my TOTAN restore.

My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the powder coat on the Hobbit, but a little lighter in color.

For the decals I went with Radcals, because I loved the ones I got for my Indiana Jones restoration. Unfortunately the color on these decals are not nearly as nice. The black seems to be too light in color. I noticed it when I was putting the decals on, but figured it was the protective film. When I pulled the film off, I noticed the color didn't change much. I'm still deciding whether I want to redo the decals, but for now I'll just live with it. If you're planning on doing new decals, I would recommend using something else.

The original playfield was in decent condition, but a previous owner put a giant screw through the playfield near the center, and it was a real eyesore, so I decided to go with CPR reproduction playfield and gave the old one to a friend for some wall art. The CPR playfield was pretty nice, except the dimples on the bottom of the playfield were worthless. I think maybe 4 or 5 dimples ended up being accurate. The others were WAY off. Luckily the topside holes were mostly accurate.

Overall, I really like how it turned out, minus the RadCals.

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#2214 29 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Just finished up my TOTAN restore.
My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the

Looks great! Nice job

#2215 28 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead.

How did you refinish the apron?

#2216 27 days ago
Quoted from SuperMica:

How did you refinish the apron?

The previous owner installed the apron. I'm not sure where he purchased it from.

#2217 27 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Just finished up my TOTAN restore.
My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the powder coat on the Hobbit, but a little lighter in color.
For the decals I went with Radcals, because I loved the ones I got for my Indiana Jones restoration. Unfortunately the color on these decals are not nearly as nice. The black seems to be too light in color. I noticed it when I was putting the decals on, but figured it was the protective film. When I pulled the film off, I noticed the color didn't change much. I'm still deciding whether I want to redo the decals, but for now I'll just live with it. If you're planning on doing new decals, I would recommend using something else.
The original playfield was in decent condition, but a previous owner put a giant screw through the playfield near the center, and it was a real eyesore, so I decided to go with CPR reproduction playfield and gave the old one to a friend for some wall art. The CPR playfield was pretty nice, except the dimples on the bottom of the playfield were worthless. I think maybe 4 or 5 dimples ended up being accurate. The others were WAY off. Luckily the topside holes were mostly accurate.
Overall, I really like how it turned out, minus the RadCals.
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Super nice !

#2218 27 days ago
Quoted from SuperMica:

How did you refinish the apron?

I did refinish a TOTAN appron once:

You can use a paint stripper and then sandblast the existing anodized surface to get the original screened black and red lines and scroll-work off, then you can prime with a metal etch primer, followed by two-three coats of gold spray from Krylon (I used Krylon Fusion Metallic Gold, but you could try Rustoleum Hammered Brown, which is really gold, and might match the rest of the powder coatings if you do so), then 2 coats of clearoat. Bake the whole thing in your oven at 180-degrees for 4 hours. Then you can hit up TREASURE COVE for a TOTAN die-cut decal for the apron (about $60), which is applied using contact/release material. The decal is die cut, so every line is cut and the whole thing applies without extra clear material reducing the 'factory' look at the end.

#2219 25 days ago

I wanted artwork for the top skill shot hole and came up with a simple solution, just add the sides of the basket, happy with the look.

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#2220 24 days ago

This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?

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#2221 24 days ago
Quoted from Hougie:

This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wiping an acrylic dark brown on and wiping most of it off leaving dark residuals in the crevices will definitely antique it. Maybe put a clear coat on after to seal the deal
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#2222 24 days ago
Quoted from Hougie:

This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good to me. Maybe a clear coat?

#2223 24 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Looks good to me. Maybe a clear coat?

I think it looks fine too.

#2224 23 days ago
Quoted from Hougie:

This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?

The LAMP is a tough gimmick to refurb. In it's factory state, it always seems to beg for a refresh, but when you decide to apply paint to it, it always seems like you have to make a choice what 'feel' you want to leave it in, original, shiny or antiqued. I struggled with this exact choice, and ended up leaving it alone. In the end, less is better IMHO, and any shade of gold probably works fine, but remember it is 6-inches away from the skill shot bracket, which if you have refinished, might work to tie in, and then the apron is also an area that commonly gets refinished, in some shade of gold. I don't think there is any 'best' answer, just your taste.

Also note, PPS has the lamp spinning disk in red, purple and clear, which may influence/compliment your choice above. And lastly, if you are in the spinning disk area doing work, make sure you change the bulbs under the disk which are many times forgotten for years, but changes the look of the lamp as well.

#2225 22 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The LAMP is a tough gimmick to refurb. In it's factory state, it always seems to beg for a refresh, but when you decide to apply paint to it, it always seems like you have to make a choice what 'feel' you want to leave it in, original, shiny or antiqued. I struggled with this exact choice, and ended up leaving it alone. In the end, less is better IMHO, and any shade of gold probably works fine, but remember it is 6-inches away from the skill shot bracket, which if you have refinished, might work to tie in, and then the apron is also an area that commonly gets refinished, in some shade of gold. I don't think there is any 'best' answer, just your taste.
Also note, PPS has the lamp spinning disk in red, purple and clear, which may influence/compliment your choice above. And lastly, if you are in the spinning disk area doing work, make sure you change the bulbs under the disk which are many times forgotten for years, but changes the look of the lamp as well.

I like how this paint reflects light when it spins. It's definitely better with the room lights off. I want to tame it a bit but retain some of the shine/reflection. I think I will try wiping a little acrylic paint on to give it an aged look.

2 weeks later
#2226 6 days ago

Trying something a little different from the original art. I need to trim the bottom yet, but it’s fun to change it up.

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#2227 6 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Trying something a little different from the original art. I need to trim the bottom yet, but it’s fun to change it up.
[quoted image]

As someone who's created a few custom translites... be prepared for a few negative comments about how the original should never be changed.

A suggestion though... you might want to remove the stars that are somehow shining though the portion of the moon that is in shadow

#2228 5 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

As someone who's created a few custom translites... be prepared for a few negative comments about how the original should never be changed.
A suggestion though... you might want to remove the stars that are somehow shining though the portion of the moon that is in shadow

Maybe that moon is a half halo?

#2229 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Trying something a little different from the original art. I need to trim the bottom yet, but it’s fun to change it up.
[quoted image]

WAY too plain

#2230 5 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

be prepared for a few negative comments about how the original should never be changed.

No worries, it’s just on my machine, so nobody else has to embrace it. Plus, I still have the original, and I’m sure at times I’ll use it again. It’s easy enough to swap them out, to try something different.

There are 2230 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 45.

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