Before:
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After:
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Ok, so after about 4 hours of tweaking, removing, installing, and repeating I finally got the ball to hit the right flipper as it should and bounces to the left. Here is what I had to do, hopefully, this can help others if they run into this.

This game has a Mantis bazaar scoop, and these scoops tend to have uneven leg heights. In my case the two legs on the right (looking at it with the playfield up) were short. HEP had installed a couple of washers to compensate... but that was not the issue... entirely.

1. I removed the scoop and first slightly bent the top lip as it was not straight.
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2. Slotted the upper left hole to allow more rotational movement to aim at the right flipper
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3. Added a very unique stack of washers to both the right legs. The top required slightly thicker washers than the slotter bottom right.
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Whew... that was a lot anyway, think we are good to go now but haven't actually played a full game yet haha.

Also noticed the scoop has a metal lip that was rather tall and probably just a matter of time before it damages the balls or a ball gets stuck so I ground this down.
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so after all that,,, i just played a game... SDTM still

Good suggestion, I was thinking the same for the coil bracket...

Thanks Markharris2000 ironically I have come to realize that is the key component to good ball trajectory: the alignment of the kicker to the scoop bracket. Thanks

Also found this interesting fix, socket was very loose and fragile
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Let’s fix that

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Hey TOTAN fam. What GI bulbs are you all using? I am leaning towards 2SMD sunlight or warm white. Cheers!

Whatever u go with GI-ocd is a must for this game

Mine came with warm but my personal pref would be 2smd frosted sunlight

oh dont you worry this has both led ocd and gi ocd sunlight frosted is what I ended up going with. Thanks for the input!!

I know your initial effort didn’t fully correct the problem, but bravo for the photos and detailed info you shared. Those before/after pics looked like the problem was perfectly corrected. I hope you were able to adjust the scoop again and fix it. Thanks so much for sharing your hard work, it’s still very useful and might save others some time. I had to replace my scoop, after which it works perfectly. I would also mention that I was able to temporarily adjust the trajectory of the old scoop by simply placing a small, postage-stamp sized piece of thick tape on the underside of the scoop hood. The ball would hit the tape and it seemed to take just enough speed off the ball to send it to the right flipper. Worked for a couple months until I replaced the scoop.

Can anyone confirm for me if all the bulbs are 13v under the spinning lamp? I read the manual and still can’t tell for sure. I think they are.

Thanks!

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Super easy to change those bulbs without disassembling

Thanks for the tip! I actually just replaced the red spinning base with a new purple one, so no need to clean it yet. I’m not sure the bulbs are 6.3v though. I know at least one under there is a flasher and is 13v, and I am pretty sure the old bulbs I removed from under there were 13v, but I’m not 100%. Will a 13v bulb work in a 6.3v socket? I know the other way round could be a big problem. A 6.3v bulb can melt or fry in a 13v socket. I made that error once on an X-Men. Hopefully someone has replaced these recently and knows. Is there a way to tell from the socket itself or the wiring?

I recently bought a TOTAN, and replaced the bulbs. 2 bulbs are normal 555 6.5V. There is one flasher lamp as well. Typically, the black base units (2) are 6.5V. The one grey unit is the 12v flasher. Hope this helps.

I just picked up a TOTAN this week and will be doing a thorough refresh on it before it goes in my lineup so I will be spending some time here reading up on what I should be addressing while I've got it torn down. One thing I can't seem to find much about is sound upgrades. I have Pinsound on my other games and love it but they don't offer any alternate or upgraded sound tracks for TOTAN so I'm not sure it's worth it to go that route. Would also consider Pinwoofer GT. I know there's only so much you can do to improve these old tracks but these 2 options would allow me to at least somewhat equalize the sound to my liking. One benefit to Pinsound is the easy headphone station with external volume control but I'm looking for a reason NOT to drop another $700 on a Pinsound kit! What's worked for you?

I have the PinWoofer kit in my totan. Real easy plug and play full speaker system with
All user friendly sound adjustments just inside coin door. Good bang for the buck!

Hey MLmotorsport ! It's been awhile - hope your MMr is still jamming good with the V2 PinWoofer system!

TOTAN is a great sounding title owing to the later / better WPC95 audio. Albeit mono, you still have a ton of potential on WPC95. Keep in mind that the later Whitestar and SAM titles are mono as well (Star Trek, Tron, ACDC, Metallica, etc.), and for the most part those platforms sound amazing. I would not let mono deter you from adding our amplifier and speaker upgrade.

As you probably know replacing the speakers alone leads mostly to disappointment. Adding our GT amplifier is key to liberating the backbox, plus you'll get great bass out of the cabinet just like MMr.

Here is the recommended system:

https://pinwoofer.com/pinwoofer-gt-8in-5-25in-wpc95-super-kit/

You can cut power to the speakers, and then route headphones using the line out on the GT amp which works well at nominal volume levels. If you want to run your headphones a bit louder, we can advise you on an aftermarket setup that won't cost much and will be straightforward to setup.

Have fun and good luck!

Dan
+1 208 855 0346

Oh, I know a reorchestration would be mega hours and way outside my wheelhouse (though I would be happy to chip in to fund it if anyone had the notion to do such a thing). I would probably lean towards doing Pinsound if they had any upgraded sound files for TOTAN. Basic speakers would probably help but I'd like to have some tonal control too.

I haven't had a chance to try out his new creation but the old one stepped up the sound on my MMr significantly. The price for this new (better) amp has also gone up significantly ...though still about half the price of a full Pinsound+ system.

I'll get with you on this. Looking like my best plug & play option at the moment.

I’ve upgraded mine to a PinSound and TOTAN does have a dilemma at this point with a couple things. The original TOTAN music, Callouts, etc is actually about as good as you would want it. And you’re correct, oddly nobody had modified and uploaded a custom file probably for this reason. I did though start adding some classical tracks from The 7th Voyage of Sinbad by Bernard Herrmann and those are fantastic. I didn’t remove any of the originals, just added these so the play randomly for each mode. Pinsound though is definitely hard to value to justify on TOTAN vs Indiana Jones or DE GNR where people have already made great sound packages. Of course you could be the TOTAN pinsound pioneer and remaster a package. That’s my take on it tho.

Hey everyone, I’m still getting my TOTAN dialed in and I noticed that the upper upper diverter commonly gets the ball stuck as it doesn’t open far enough. I imagine there is some adjustment before I dive into it just thought I would ask you can see in the photo below thank you so much

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Your coil is bad or not free flowing enough. That diverter should go way more to the right

Thanks for the reply considering this game has under 200 plays and was restored by HEP not long ago I’m going to go out on a limb and assume it’s not the coil, but I’ll dig into it tomorrow

Try moving it with your hand. It should be free flowing. Sometimes the coil shaft can get misaligned with the coil bracket. If it’s rubbing on that you’ll have to adjust it. I had a coil burn out (melted the sleeve inside) which made it stick. Just replace the whole thing

Appreciate the help will try this

I'm really surprised your game needs tweeking considering it's a HEP. Also, didn't the previous owner notice these things? 200 games is plenty to spot them.

I had an issue with the diverter a while back. You may need to just rotate the coil a quarter turn (or a half turn by the look of the pix) so the lugs point out towards the right side (towards pop bumpers). You will need to remove the coil stop to rotate it. Also few washers can be used at the pivot point to make sure the plungger is properly aligned with the coil.

Thanks. I am not sure what HEP has to do with someone having to make adjustments to a game after two and a half years 3000 miles and two owners.
I can’t travel with the games to each and every location and dial them back in
I do remember the game though and it looks like the original owner was super happy with not just the cosmetics but the gameplay as well.
Hard to always know or explain what can pop up at any point in a games life or travels but I am sure Brady is more than capable of sorting it out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-totan-build

Congrats on a HEP ToTan!
I 100% reccomend the new coil for the scoop.
If you search my threads i had the same problem a few years back.
Replaced the coil, been solid since.

I would to mention, this has zero to do with HEP, (I probably should not have even mentioned that at all. The game and the the quality of this build it phenomenal. Kinda bums me out that he felt the need to respond here, as that tells me I may have somehow alienated him.

This game is absolutely beautiful and I am so lucky to own it. It’s a pinball machine... things need tweaking almost always over time. I was merely trying to gauge if anyone had a suggestion. I appreciate all the suggestions will try today

This was by no means any disrespect to you ( as you have helped me with my pinball needs) or the pinball god (HEP). Every game will need maintenance or tweeks of some kind. Just surprised that this level of game would need anything so soon. Both of you guys are way more skilled than me in the hobby!

Thanks guys.
I m not that thin skinned I just wanted to make it known I have limitations when it comes to things like this like anyone else.
I do put a lot of serviceability into the builds though so if someone does have to dig into something in the future it will be much easier.

I have NIB just out of the box pins with issues

I actually bought a new coil for the Diverter when I got my TOTAN, it lasted about a year. Shit happens, nobody’s fault. It’s moving parts, 25 year old electronics, and electricity. I bought another coil and this one has been solid. I think I’m gonna fire it up right now and put a couple more games on it

Thanks everyone so as I kinda suspected, it was just some tweaking that was required. It Would appear that on my game the angle of the coil and the geometry thereabouts is a bit off. The result was the plunger binding inside of the coil and not moving freely.

After inspecting it quite a bit I noticed that when it moves smoothly the back coil bracket mount needed to be raised up a few millimeters so I 3-D printed a shim and now it works flawlessly

This is the angle the coil needed to be at to move freely
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Quick model of a shim
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Shim installed and Now working perfectly smooth
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Nice job!

Adding some more brass and got the art blades in.

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For anyone elese that is having upper diverter issues and has a 3D printer I put the file up on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4753792

So... just got this topper and think it’s going back. Little confused on th design decision here... the game has 7 modes... 7 gems, this sword has 6. I also was looking at some diagrams and videos and noticed this wires into the bazaar lamps?? Very disappointing as it’s a very well made topper, but that means nothing if it doesn’t function well ??

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That is odd. My sword from 4 years ago has 7 crystals. Granted, it's different than your topper, just a sword. Used to be on ebay all the time.

Ya think I’m gonna make my own. Found a tutorial on a DIY and found the sword on amazon

Forum Novelties Pirate Cutlass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GY09KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_80GY5ZW2SWPY2HNVZ2YZ

My topper.

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