Looks cool if you can figure out how....
...I called TILT Graphics and JT replaced it ...and didn't even call me stupid.......
shout out to great customer service!

Now ...does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this without destroying the decals?

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Hi Group, I have been enjoying my TOTAN for a few months but she is acting up now and I was wondering if this is a common problem. The start a wish magnet infront of the genie will grab and hold the ball just fine but but instead of throwing the ball like it did before it just lets go and the ball sits in the small magnet recess. After a minute or so the machine preforms a ball search, the magnet holds the ball, pulls it down and it ejects from the bizarre. This started gradually once in a wile than more often and now about 20 games since it started it happens every time. The driver board clearly looked and smelled burnt so I replaced it and no luck still same problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The genie magnet is a standard 20-10197 coil, which is two wire. I have never had to dive into the vanishing magnet very deep, but have always assumed that the THROW is accomplished by applying voltage to the coil to grab and hold, and then releasing the hold and briefly re-energizing that voltage for a moment to THROW. That would seem to indicate that the driver control is damaged. Looking at the manual, it looks like Q81 is the driver for it so start there.

Anyone else seen this issue?

Could the balls have become magnetized? Maybe try some new ones

Is the Main drop magnet level with the playfield?

Yes

Will and Holly concur!

What about Marshall?

I guess in my head when I think of Chaka I always hear him saying “Will and Holly” in his prehistoric accent

Ha! Fair. I have the theme song forever living rent free in my mind. “Marshall, Will & Holly...”

Here’s a mystery driving me nuts.
Party last sat night
Grandkids going nuts on my games hammering flippers everywhere.
At some point i smell a burning smell. Try to figure out what pin is cooking down.
Alcohol was involved lol (not the kids)
Totan smells funny. Shut it down.
Looked at it today. Bunch coils won’t work. Blowing f3 on power up.
Figure I have multiple issues so slap in my fresh rotten dog and start to test.
Most coils now working but 3 won’t fire.
Left divertor, ramp divertor and vanish magnet dead as doornails.
No further fuses have blown and I’ve double checks connectors.
So any ideas what going on here?
Vanish ohms at 5.2
Ramp divertor ohms at 2.0
Replaced left divertor coil because I had one.
All voltages are good. All fuse good.
What am I missing?

Drink more alcohol and keep playing

i slept on it and figured it out. Q 26 was blown from a shorted coil. when I put the rottendog in it blew same transistor but didnt blow the fuse.
somehow some where those 3 coils are associated. replaced bad transistor and the others all work now. learn something every day I guess

Odd, Q26 is a low power circuit only driving the ramp diverter coil, not involved in the other two coils. But if it's working now, no need post mortum analysis!!! Life's too short. 8-)

exactly, so somehow those coils are associated. as soon as i replaced the bad transistor the other 2 started working. would need Rob or someone to explain that to me.

Excited to say I am going to be joining the club soon. THis game has been one I have always wanted and continued to be elusive. Finalley getting one!!

Nice!! welcome to the club Brady

Thanks arcadenerd925 i did not know you owned one!? Such an awesome game

Yeah I bought Jason's (in Tracy). I believe it was originally Shane's (op/dealer from down south) and was nicely restored probably a grip of time ago. The PF is nice for an original, but at some point I'd love to swap in a new one and slap some rad cals on this beast.

Yes!! I was looking at rascals for one of my games, I didn’t realize you can just slap them Over the old ones

You can... BUT, just be weary. if the corners are peeling up, or the surface is not really flat any bumps will show through. When I did my WH20 it was certainly easier and more forgiving than decalling it (i did remove the old decals and sand/prep it though, just not as much as when i did my FH). For me it was just the end result that made it worth it. That glossy sheen is gorgeous.

Yes!! I would strip mine fist for many of the reasons you just listed. Thanks for the input. Now that you have done both would you always do radcals if you could over standard decals?

Got mine back up and running. Will post what happened and the fix in case anyone
In future needs Info for similar problem.
Ramp diverter coil shorted or transistor 26 stuck on [burnt the paper off the coil] and took out transistors 26,81,84 all at the same time. More than likely the transistor open burnt the coil I would think. Those 3 are linked somehow, must share a wire.
Diodes and resistors were all good.

Yup. Radcals 100%

Does totan have a video mode

It does not.

No video mode. No third flipper. No kickback. No auto plunge. Yet one of the best games of all time!

But don’t forget the shooting star vertical pop ups above the inlanes, and the spinning lamp, a magnet or two, crazy artwork, amazing swirl ramp!!!

Amazing game...

I did a bad bad thing.. went to a local chrome shop and asked him to do brass on my lock down bar and sword... I opened Pandora box! They did come out beautiful...

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Bad meaning now you gotta do the entire machine right?

Yup my wallet will be a ball of flames soon!

Need help. Keep getting vanishing magnet broken error. But the magnet works fine. Thoughts?

Simple question (I hope): What is the correct post length for the top left post on the magnet ramp? Previous owner had stacked two post together = too tall causing ball hang-ups on soft shots through diverter.

read back, bunch posts about the same thing. in test mode you can run a genie test, sucks the ball down and the ball rolls through all the switches.
if it passes that test it should clear error. if not it will show you what switch is bad

I had this error. It was intermittent at first, then all the time.

There's a microswitch just under the magnet in the clear subway. It's where the ball goes when it vanishes. This switch may be sticking, or out of adjustment. For me, the switch body nub was gummed up and wouldn't "click" out all the time, I replaced the switch and fixed the error.

I did post that on this thread a few years ago with photos.

Hope this helps

my original post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-club/page/22#post-4155669

Yeah so I do that and it clears it. Then the next few days comes on again even when it works fine in the game.

I would guess that you have 1 switch that is hit and miss. micro switches are cheap, replace them all in that trough for insurance.

In anticipation of getting my TOTAN, I made a mini to hold me over. Which color do you prefer

Black
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OR

Gold
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Gold!

Thanks for the info! Was missing from mine, but easy to duplicate from scrap material in my workshop. Really improves play. Thanks again.

I agree with you. That is my next step.

sometimes games give ghost errors, example my tales game just fried the divertor coil and ive replaced it. works fine in test and game play but still shows it is broken when game it turned on. my Tzone has always gave me a clock is broken error but it has always worked fine.
attack mars will show a broken divertor error sometimes and if i go to test and roll a ball through that a few times it will go away. it actually
says in the op manual how to clear that so when it was made they knew they threw errors up. weird

Cliffy has that ramp lifter part available as well.

Hey TOTAN folks! I am finally in the club. Question for you all, I was just paying it and noticed that my Bazaar kickout goes straight down the middle. If I hold up my right flipper it will barely hit the tip to deflect it. Is this by design? I am thinking of trying to adjust. Thank you

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Nice looking machine!!!! Welcome!

As for the Bazaar scoop drain trajectory, it takes a bit of trial and error to adjust it. While not intuitively obvious, but the scoop part you see is a separate stainless steel assembly than the coil-mounted ejector bracket under the playfield. The coil bracket can become slightly bent over time, left or right. The natural tendency to fix a drain situation for the scoop is to try to bend the curved part of the visible scoop to fix the launch error, but I would FIRST try and bend the coil bracket a bit, making it ever so slightly closer to the left or right side of the playfield. TINY ADJUSTMENT!!!! The coil bracket change will affect the trajectory of the ball itself.

(IMHO, Bending the scoop curve is the last resort)

Thank you! Will try this and report back

Have a close look at the scoop while you are working on the coil - I was having all sorts of problems with alignment and finally realized the weld was separating - one new scoop assembly later and all was good.

Should not SDTM, I would check the scoop on the underside and see if anything seems out of sorts or loose. Also, more pics!

Definitely shouldn’t kick out SDTM, but that’s what mine was doing when I first bought it. I tried bending the hood and made it worse. I replaced the scoop and it’s been perfect since, kicks to the center of right flipper every time. Just my experience. You may be able to adjust yours. Good luck!