(Topic ID: 97143)

TOTAN club! (fans welcome)


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 1,784 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Markharris2000
  • Topic is favorited by 122 Pinsiders

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There are 1784 posts in this topic. You are on page 36 of 36.
#1751 5 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Could someone please tell me where this plastic goes?
[quoted image]

On top of the ramp diverter coil assembly.

#1752 5 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

On top of the ramp diverter coil assembly.

I thought this one goes on the diverter assembly

image (resized).jpg
#1753 5 days ago

Thou shall not dispense advice from bed directly after waking up. So sorry - yes, that is correct.

As for the part in question - not immediately sure. Will have to look.

#1754 5 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Thou shall not dispense advice from bed directly after waking up. So sorry - yes, that is correct.
As for the part in question - not immediately sure. Will have to look.

Thank you. I recently purchased a new set of plastic but the plastic in question wasn’t on my machine

#1755 5 days ago

Just finished up restoring this TOTAN...I purchased new plastics, but haven’t been able to find a good pic that shows how/where the Cobra plastic mounts. Can anybody explain or post a pic of it? Thanks!!!

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#1756 5 days ago

While replacing all of the clear ramps on my machine a few weeks ago, I decided to replace the newton balls (ORBS) while I was in there, just for looks. To my surprise, BOTH newton balls had been sitting on their completely stripped posts, and probably been that way for a very long time based on the level of stripping I saw on the posts. I suspect that everyone that has a machine with a bunch of plays on it will find the same functional but totally stripped newton balls. Getting them out was relatively easy with the plastics removed, and I had the two replacements in hand ($8 each I think). The play is noticeably different when the newton balls don't move (which I had never seen in the first place, but now I get it) because any shot to it bounces off much cleaner/stronger.

Anyway, this is just a suggestion to "check your balls"

#1757 5 days ago
Quoted from mikehoss1414:

Just finished up restoring this TOTAN...I purchased new plastics, but haven’t been able to find a good pic that shows how/where the Cobra plastic mounts. Can anybody explain or post a pic of it? Thanks!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

The cobra plastic mounts on the skil-shot bracket, on the post near the 555 socket. It spins into any position you like, but be careful because it comes dangerously close to the glass if not positioned correctly and will cause no-joy once it catches and breaks!

#1758 5 days ago
Quoted from mikehoss1414:

Just finished up restoring this TOTAN...I purchased new plastics, but haven’t been able to find a good pic that shows how/where the Cobra plastic mounts. Can anybody explain or post a pic of it? Thanks!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Here you go.

20200913_095616 (resized).jpg
#1759 5 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You should see the driver side of the coil (thinner wire) drop to ground in regular intervals when on the test and it is set to repeat. The power side of the coil (thicker wires) should not change, and should be constant voltage.
If you are getting no pulse, something is bad between coil and driver. (Transistor, broken wore, etc.
Considering the previous coil burnt, likely your driver locked on and shorted itself ded.

Thanks Coyote. Yeah I just hit me you’re right, it should be pulsing. Darn it. Ok so I’ll have to test it directly on the board. J111-5 (BLUE-GREEN) appears to be the #21 solenoid drive. I also see there is a J111-12 (RED-ORANGE) tieback diode first #21 which loops through that connector.

Assumption is J111-5 should be pulsing. I guess I could test the others and see what the pulse it

#1760 5 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Thanks Coyote. Yeah I just hit me you’re right, it should be pulsing. Darn it. Ok so I’ll have to test it directly on the board. J111-5 (BLUE-GREEN) appears to be the #21 solenoid drive. I also see there is a J111-12 (RED-ORANGE) tieback diode first #21 which loops through that connector.
Assumption is J111-5 should be pulsing. I guess I could test the others and see what the pulse it

Yup, good luck. I would not be surprised if you lost the driving transistor in the end.

#1761 5 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The cobra plastic mounts on the skil-shot bracket, on the post near the 555 socket. It spins into any position you like, but be careful because it comes dangerously close to the glass if not positioned correctly and will cause no-joy once it catches and breaks!

Quoted from marioparty34:

Here you go.
[quoted image]

Thank you both so much!!!

#1762 5 days ago

Still an unknown. I can’t find a pic anywhere showing this on a playfield

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#1763 5 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Still an unknown. I can’t find a pic anywhere showing this on a playfield
[quoted image]

Here you go.

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#1764 5 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Here you go.
[quoted image]

Bummer that’s not it

#1765 5 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Bummer that’s not it

You are right. Curious I don't see your piece on my playfield yet it shows up as part of the plastic set on multiple sites. Need to do some more research.

#1766 5 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Still an unknown. I can’t find a pic anywhere showing this on a playfield
[quoted image]

Hi Green, that’s and extra piece. Even though it has 2 drill holes it’s definitely extra. I have the same extra when I bought the full set. There’s also 2 key fobs. Other than it might have been a part discontinued or prototype that gets printed with the full set, not sure. Maybe J-Pop knows (or sleuth a prototype). Data East Star Wars had a couple mystery plastics that got printed but go nowhere

On the other hand you can use it 2 hold 2 keys if you put key rings on it. Otherwise maybe a large earring or medallion?

#1767 5 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

You are right. Curious I don't see your piece on my playfield yet it shows up as part of the plastic set on multiple sites. Need to do some more research.

Key fob, 100%.

#1768 5 days ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

You are right. Curious I don't see your piece on my playfield yet it shows up as part of the plastic set on multiple sites. Need to do some more research.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Hi Green, that’s and extra piece. Even though it has 2 drill holes it’s definitely extra. I have the same extra when I bought the full set. There’s also 2 key fobs. Other than it might have been a part discontinued or prototype that gets printed with the full set, not sure. Maybe J-Pop knows (or sleuth a prototype). Data East Star Wars had a couple mystery plastics that got printed but go nowhere
On the other hand you can use it 2 hold 2 keys if you put key rings on it. Otherwise maybe a large earring or medallion?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it!!! It was driving me nuts

#1769 4 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Could someone please tell me where this plastic goes?
[quoted image]

Above the coil at the top of the swirl ramp. It hides the coil.

#1770 4 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Still an unknown. I can’t find a pic anywhere showing this on a playfield
[quoted image]

I suspect there was a prototype update that changed the dagger shaped piece to a full circle. Both versions kept the dagger graphic, but the circle covers the diverter mechanism better. So... it’s now a key fob, or a extra part to do with as you like.

#1771 4 days ago

coyote so now I’m thinking it’s the coil now. So I wanted to test the board directly (pin J111-5 BLUE-GREEN and pin J133-2 RED-BRN) with the connectors removed. J133-2 shows 74.2V constant out which is what’s expected. J111-5 now shows pulsing .25V to .8V

I clipped the 2 wires from the coil and with the wires free I had the same results as above

Is that the correct low voltage pulse? Bad Coil?

#1772 4 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I suspect there was a prototype update that changed the dagger shaped piece to a full circle. Both versions kept the dagger graphic, but the circle covers the diverter mechanism better. So... it’s now a key fob, or a extra part to do with as you like.

The hole alignment is different than the diverter plastic too so something has changed.

#1773 4 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Hi Green, that’s and extra piece. Even though it has 2 drill holes it’s definitely extra. I have the same extra when I bought the full set. There’s also 2 key fobs. Other than it might have been a part discontinued or prototype that gets printed with the full set, not sure. Maybe J-Pop knows (or sleuth a prototype). Data East Star Wars had a couple mystery plastics that got printed but go nowhere
On the other hand you can use it 2 hold 2 keys if you put key rings on it. Otherwise maybe a large earring or medallion?

Love your chaka avatar! Brings back some old memories

#1774 4 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

coyote so now I’m thinking it’s the coil now. So I wanted to test the board directly (pin J111-5 BLUE-GREEN and pin J133-2 RED-BRN) with the connectors removed. J133-2 shows 74.2V constant out which is what’s expected. J111-5 now shows pulsing .25V to .8V
I clipped the 2 wires from the coil and with the wires free I had the same results as above
Is that the correct low voltage pulse? Bad Coil?

Okay, yes - in that case, it is very possible your coil is bad. (Though, in theory, even with a bad coil, you should still see the pulsing drop. If you did NOT, it would mean that the transistor is still being held high when it drops, which means there's a short somewhere else.)

Drop in a different coil, and see if anything changes.

If nothing changes, then try this test -
In coil test, put your DMM into continuity check/mode. (The one where it 'beeps' when the leads are touched.) Put one lead on the metal backframe of the PCBs, and the other on the J111p5. Whenever the transistor activates the coil, you should get a 'beep' from your DMM.

#1775 4 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

The hole alignment is different than the diverter plastic too so something has changed.

Maybe they re-designed the diverter mechanism itself from prototype to production, which caused the covering plastic to change. The entire diverter mechanism always seemed a bit big to me, so perhaps the orig bracket was smaller in the prototypes? Anyway, we may never know... but this thread confirms that there is no need for the dagger shaped plastic in any production TOTAN.

m

#1776 4 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, yes - in that case, it is very possible your coil is bad. (Though, in theory, even with a bad coil, you should still see the pulsing drop. If you did NOT, it would mean that the transistor is still being held high when it drops, which means there's a short somewhere else.)
Drop in a different coil, and see if anything changes.
If nothing changes, then try this test -
In coil test, put your DMM into continuity check/mode. (The one where it 'beeps' when the leads are touched.) Put one lead on the metal backframe of the PCBs, and the other on the J111p5. Whenever the transistor activates the coil, you should get a 'beep' from your DMM.

I’ll try that. Here is the ohm test on the coil. Not sure what this should be

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#1777 3 days ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

No? I could not get the ball to fit through with both. Wondering if anybody had a similar issue. Tried bending the scoop a bit to open up but wouldn't give enough. Gave up and removed Cliffy.

Has anyone been able to make cliffy’s bazaar scoop protector work with the scoop? Having the same issue now, not enough clearance between the two metal surfaces for a ball to fit.

#1778 3 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Has anyone been able to make cliffy’s bazaar scoop protector work with the scoop? Having the same issue now, not enough clearance between the two metal surfaces for a ball to fit.

Just got my Tales a coupe weeks ago and enjoying all the repairs, mods and fixes.

I did not add a cliffy, but here are some pics of my bazaar scoop tig welded. I added a pic that shows you can bend it up if desired with channel locks. I would remove the scoop for better control on the bend etc.

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#1779 2 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Has anyone been able to make cliffy’s bazaar scoop protector work with the scoop? Having the same issue now, not enough clearance between the two metal surfaces for a ball to fit.

Yup. Mine works fine with a Cliffy

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#1780 2 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I’ll try that. Here is the ohm test on the coil. Not sure what this should be[quoted image]

Ok, coil was fine. That was the correct ohms. Issue was the transistor.

Had it replaced, works perfect now

#1781 2 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Ok, coil was fine. That was the correct ohms. Issue was the transistor.
Had it replaced, works perfect now

Ah good! I thought I had replied to you, but I guess it had slipped my mind - a bad coil would show 0 or open ohms. Glad you got it!

#1782 1 day ago

Does anyone know if there is a list of needed parts for a playfield swap. The manual doesn’t show the type and number of posts, hex , post studs, mini posts, etc etc needed. I assume someone did this before...

#1783 1 day ago
Quoted from KLR2014:

Does anyone know if there is a list of needed parts for a playfield swap. The manual doesn’t show the type and number of posts, hex , post studs, mini posts, etc etc needed. I assume someone did this before...

In theory, if you're swapping a playfield, won't you already have everything you need?

However, on IPDB there is a "Parts List" - that will narrow it down so much you'll regret it.

#1784 1 day ago
Quoted from Coyote:

In theory, if you're swapping a playfield, won't you already have everything you need?
However, on IPDB there is a "Parts List" - that will narrow it down so much you'll regret it.

Ditto. If you are careful in your de-population of the old playfield, then few if any of the old parts will be broken since many of those ball guides and screws and posts screws are metal, but you might want to freshen other parts a bit...

Consider a new set of ramps. Big ticket for the full set but worth the hassle while you have it apart. You WILL need the newton balls. I am 99% sure the balls will be stripped and just sitting on the threaded post rocking back and forth. Buy a set of clear plastic protectors (marco $30). Perhaps a few plastic posts and rubber post sleeves would be good to have on hand to make them deep rich in color again. A new set of rings (take your pick of vendor), some new bulbs (44, 555 & 906's, in some colors like yellow and blue and purple), a set of two new genie lamp post rubbers (since they get so dirty and hard), and then the yellow standup targets would be worth swapping to reduce air-balls (Marco has the "R" versions which are reinforced). Take a look at your scoop and see if the welds are still good, and if not, consider a new scoop. Don't forget the CLIFF protector for the Bazaar scoop at minimum. Lastly, consider changing the tiger loop magnetic post with the newer adjustable post type used on twilight zone. Uses the same coil you already have, and just consists of a new bracket and screw and nut and the whole thing drops in to the existing hole and uses the same screws, but can be easily adjusted and cleaned up from time to time.

Worth reminding you, all the plastics will need to be cleaned... especially the underside of the genie spinning lamp base.

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There are 1784 posts in this topic. You are on page 36 of 36.

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