(Topic ID: 97143)

TOTAN club! (fans welcome)


By mof

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 29 days ago by Andypc
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There are 1704 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 35.
#1651 3 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Lower Left GI is White with a Yellow stripe, which is F112, which is a 4.0Amp fuse. Remember, these I believe are the shorter fuses than standard?

thanks, i ordered some fuses off amazon, assumed they were correct from a size standpoint, but the fuse i took out of the backboard seemed to be a standard length. are you referring to "shorter" as length of the fuse itself, correct? again, thanks for your insights

#1652 3 months ago

Take a picture of your setup

#1653 3 months ago

20mm in length versus the 32mm longer fuse. the diameter is slightly different too. This is a WPC-95 Power Driver board thing. see the image i posted.
The fuses on the RIGHT are the shorter ones used on WPC-95

E7394788-B2C3-465D-89E9-ECE93D87BD2C (resized).jpeg

#1654 3 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Take a picture of your setup

forgive me for my ignorance and thank you in advance for your help. are you wanting to see a pic of the back board or under playfield? or both? i will take all the help i can get

#1655 3 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

20mm in length versus the 32mm longer fuse. the diameter is slightly different too. This is a WPC-95 Power Driver board thing. see the image i posted.
The fuses on the RIGHT are the shorter ones used on WPC-95
[quoted image]

thanks, question: does it matter if it's "fast blow" T4.0A vs."time delay"? i just looked and the ones i ordered are "fast blow". thanks again

#1656 3 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

thanks, question: does it matter if it's "fast blow" T4.0A vs."time delay"? i just looked and the ones i ordered are "fast blow". thanks again

Yes, it matters. The short and sweet - Fast Blow will pop/blow/open a LOT sooner when current gets to the fuses' rated value. Time-Delay will not. Likely, if you're using these on coil circuits, the fast-blow will open after a few coils fire, because the current draw is a lot higher when power is initially given to the coil.

#1657 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes, it matters. The short and sweet - Fast Blow will pop/blow/open a LOT sooner when current gets to the fuses' rated value. Time-Delay will not. Likely, if you're using these on coil circuits, the fast-blow will open after a few coils fire, because the current draw is a lot higher when power is initially given to the coil.

got it, thanks, makes sense with your explanation. found a TOTAN fuse kit on Marcos, just ordered that. thanks again for the insights.

#1658 3 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

found a TOTAN fuse kit on Marcos, just ordered that. thanks again for the insights.

The bag of short 4.0A fuses you see in my image are from the Marco TOTAN fuse kit I believe.

EDIT: I did verify that those are indeed TOTAN fuses. The "T" in front of the amperage value means "time delay" which is noted in the manual. see image:

TOTAN GI FUSES (resized).JPG
#1659 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes, it matters. The short and sweet - Fast Blow will pop/blow/open a LOT sooner when current gets to the fuses' rated value. Time-Delay will not. Likely, if you're using these on coil circuits, the fast-blow will open after a few coils fire, because the current draw is a lot higher when power is initially given to the coil.

I agree. this is, however, a G.I. circuit I believe, and wouldn't using LEDs make the current draw way less than incandescents, thus reducing the issue? Just curious...

#1660 3 months ago

does anyone have a pic of where to connect the alligator clips for the skeleton mod? I'm still not sure why it shorted out, I connected it to what i thought was GI bulb socket lug, didn't have any power on until it was connected and not touching anything else.

#1661 3 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I agree. this is, however, a G.I. circuit I believe, and wouldn't using LEDs make the current draw way less than incandescents, thus reducing the issue? Just curious...

Yup, that will affect it by far! In that case, a fast-blo should be fine. Or, at least, last a little longer.

#1662 3 months ago

Hi guys.

Can someone please confirm that the top loop flasher and the genie flashers are meant to fire at the same time? They are both supplied by the same colour wire.

Same deal with the pop bumper playfield flasher and right flasher on the backboard?

1 week later
#1663 3 months ago

Hi all-
I have had a TOTAN for about ten years and it's in pretty condition. playfield clean, everything else working fine. Minor stuff mostly, but all three of the ramps have a few cracks so I am going to take swapping those in the next few weeks. I sourced the ramps but am looking for the swirl plastic which is a thin clear flat swirl that tops the extruded swirl ramp. I have only found it over at Pu-Parts in the UK, and they don't ship to the USA. (Its a $15 part). Anyone know of a source for it here in the USA? Should be an easy repro item.

Also, I never liked the dingy-looking metal ball guide mounted on the lower left side of the playfield which guides the ball down from the wire ramp behind the slingshot. Marco and other sell the stainless steel replacement, but I decided to clean up the one I had and found that Rustoleum #298537 paint is a perfect match for the mustard yellow used throughout the playfield. Primed the guide with etch primer, sprayed some paint, and it looks great. Just wanted to share this little tip.

tales-of-the-arabian-nights-swirl-plastic_2a (resized).jpg
#1664 3 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Hi all-
I have had a TOTAN for about ten years and it's in pretty condition. playfield clean, everything else working fine. Minor stuff mostly, but all three of the ramps have a few cracks so I am going to take swapping those in the next few weeks. I sourced the ramps but am looking for the swirl plastic which is a thin clear flat swirl that tops the extruded swirl ramp. I have only found it over at Pu-Parts in the UK, and they don't ship to the USA. (Its a $15 part). Anyone know of a source for it here in the USA? Should be an easy repro item.
Also, I never liked the dingy-looking metal ball guide mounted on the lower left side of the playfield which guides the ball down from the wire ramp behind the slingshot. Marco and other sell the stainless steel replacement, but I decided to clean up the one I had and found that Rustoleum #298537 paint is a perfect match for the mustard yellow used throughout the playfield. Primed the guide with etch primer, sprayed some paint, and it looks great. Just wanted to share this little tip.[quoted image]

Starship Fantasy, they have your ramps & more. Good people, great quality.

#1665 3 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Hi all-
I have had a TOTAN for about ten years and it's in pretty condition. playfield clean, everything else working fine. Minor stuff mostly, but all three of the ramps have a few cracks so I am going to take swapping those in the next few weeks. I sourced the ramps but am looking for the swirl plastic which is a thin clear flat swirl that tops the extruded swirl ramp. I have only found it over at Pu-Parts in the UK, and they don't ship to the USA. (Its a $15 part). Anyone know of a source for it here in the USA? Should be an easy repro item.
Also, I never liked the dingy-looking metal ball guide mounted on the lower left side of the playfield which guides the ball down from the wire ramp behind the slingshot. Marco and other sell the stainless steel replacement, but I decided to clean up the one I had and found that Rustoleum #298537 paint is a perfect match for the mustard yellow used throughout the playfield. Primed the guide with etch primer, sprayed some paint, and it looks great. Just wanted to share this little tip.[quoted image]

The clear plastics are at Pinbits.

#1666 3 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Hi all-
I have had a TOTAN for about ten years and it's in pretty condition. playfield clean, everything else working fine. Minor stuff mostly, but all three of the ramps have a few cracks so I am going to take swapping those in the next few weeks. I sourced the ramps but am looking for the swirl plastic which is a thin clear flat swirl that tops the extruded swirl ramp. I have only found it over at Pu-Parts in the UK, and they don't ship to the USA. (Its a $15 part). Anyone know of a source for it here in the USA? Should be an easy repro item.
Also, I never liked the dingy-looking metal ball guide mounted on the lower left side of the playfield which guides the ball down from the wire ramp behind the slingshot. Marco and other sell the stainless steel replacement, but I decided to clean up the one I had and found that Rustoleum #298537 paint is a perfect match for the mustard yellow used throughout the playfield. Primed the guide with etch primer, sprayed some paint, and it looks great. Just wanted to share this little tip.[quoted image]

Right in your backyard:

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_22&products_id=315&zenid=2c2631591b890f7374560362c3a1a16e

#1667 3 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Cause and cure ... when the magnet in front of the genie releases the ball on occasion it will not “jiggle" the ball and causes the ball to drain SDTM
Any suggestions ?

There is a genie save ball setting. I don't know the specific requirements but I'm fairly sure it is in effect when the genie releases the ball.

#1668 3 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

does anyone have a pic of where to connect the alligator clips for the skeleton mod? I'm still not sure why it shorted out, I connected it to what i thought was GI bulb socket lug, didn't have any power on until it was connected and not touching anything else.

If they are normal 6.3v bulbs then you can literally connect it to any GI wiring anywhere.

#1669 3 months ago

Hey all, I have a mixed bag of used and new plastics almost a whole set. Before I go lay them out and catalog what is there if anyone knows they need a plastic let me know and I'll check. I have another entire set of new plastics and all the plastics are on my game so I really don't need this set.

1 week later
#1670 84 days ago

Wanna kick some ass in a TOTAN tournament?

Hey guys, I'm trying to set up an online tournament for next Friday (April 17th), and I'm trying to recruit participants that have one of the games I have. I'm going to be posting this in each of the forums for the games I own, so I apologize in advance if you get this more than once.

The tournament would be on a single game and take place over zoom. It sounds like it could be a hell of a good time.

Please head over here for info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/online-tournament-over-zoom-#post-5587755

#1671 81 days ago

Iv got two problems with my TOTAN, the first is my coin light is out iv swopped the bulb and still out, is it normal to be the holder?
The Second is the R on the BAZAR it been dim for a while again I have swooped the bulb and holder on this one but still no joy. If it is the diode could some one please tell me what size I require?

#1672 81 days ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Iv got two problems with my TOTAN, the first is my coin light is out iv swopped the bulb and still out, is it normal to be the holder?
The Second is the R on the BAZAR it been dim for a while again I have swooped the bulb and holder on this one but still no joy. If it is the diode could some one please tell me what size I require?

What do you mean by coin light? Start button? Or coin slot? Check wiring is intact.

The dim insert may be a poor connection on the solder pad where the socket contacts, or cracked header pins on the lamp board.

#1673 81 days ago

Coin slot, iv tested back to J2 white-violet
then from J2 back to J 104 on the PDB and I am not getting a voltage.
Any thoughts? would anyone recommend bypassing and linking into another sauce?

#1674 81 days ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Coin slot, iv tested back to J2 white-violet
then from J2 back to J 104 on the PDB and I am not getting a voltage.
Any thoughts? would anyone recommend bypassing and linking into another sauce?

I had those same lights go out on my coin door. It was a 3 pin connector on the mpu, J104. If there is no continuity, you got a broken wire,or, fuse.

#1675 80 days ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Coin slot, iv tested back to J2 white-violet
then from J2 back to J 104 on the PDB and I am not getting a voltage.
Any thoughts? would anyone recommend bypassing and linking into another sauce?

J104 often gets damaged by heat from the other GI connectors and the diodes nearby. Test continuity from the header pins to the fuses, diodes (or jumper wires), and so on. There might be a break.

#1676 80 days ago

Ok is that with one probe on the pin and the other probe to ground.?

#1677 80 days ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Ok is that with one probe on the pin and the other probe to ground.?

Quoted from Wanderers:

Ok is that with one probe on the pin and the other probe to ground.?

To the non- working light.

#1678 80 days ago

Ok iv tested both single cables white-violet and violet individually from J104 back to the bulb holder in the coin slot both are good for continuity.

#1679 79 days ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Ok iv tested both single cables white-violet and violet individually from J104 back to the bulb holder in the coin slot both are good for continuity.

You need to remove the power driver board and study the schematic. Put one probe on a pin of J104 and work backwards over the board using the schematic to guide you. One of the traces might be broken and testing each section of the circuit will help you find it.

#1680 79 days ago

Ok, that would make sense, iv never took one off before might be a bit to big of a job for me. Thankyou

3 weeks later
#1681 58 days ago

I just recently picked up a TOTAN. very happy for the most part. Suddenly though it started acting strange. everytime the shooting star is awarded in the Bazaar it starts firing the solenoid for the left shooting star nonstop.....has anyone seen this behavior before? I also had the bottom ball lock switch stop registering suddenly....It does not register in switch test now.

I can't seem to find that switch anywhere...does anyone know where to find it? part # A-17985-R

Thanks for any help
Todd

#1682 58 days ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

I just recently picked up a TOTAN. very happy for the most part. Suddenly though it started acting strange. everytime the shooting star is awarded in the Bazaar it starts firing the solenoid for the left shooting star nonstop.....has anyone seen this behavior before? I also had the bottom ball lock switch stop registering suddenly....It does not register in switch test now.
I can't seem to find that switch anywhere...does anyone know where to find it?
Thanks for any help
Todd

Check the opto above the ball trap. If there is something it fire the solenoids. Maybe it’s just dirty.
For the ball lock, you need to throw a ball from below to check because that’s the last one. I would have checked also with lifting the playfield that there is not a small disconnection. .

#1683 58 days ago

that opto on the left ball trap is out now as well as the left outlane and left rollover button switches ....strange....they were all working before...I tested the switch on lower ball lock and it tests fine so it isnt the switch itself...

is there a fuse that controls these things?

#1684 58 days ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

that opto on the left ball trap is out now as well as the left outlane and left rollover button switches ....strange....they were all working before...I tested the switch on lower ball lock and it tests fine so it isnt the switch itself...
is there a fuse that controls these things?

Something might be wrong with your CPU board. I would check all the connections first. The fuse doesn’t control the switches but you can still control if one is blown for sure.

#1685 58 days ago

It looks like an entire switch matrix is out all of the switches on that matrix are out. left inlane, left outlane, mini standups, and one direction of the lamp as well as the bottom lock switch......

did I blow something up?

#1686 58 days ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

It looks like an entire switch matrix is out all of the switches on that matrix are out. left inlane, left outlane, mini standups, and one direction of the lamp as well as the bottom lock switch......
did I blow something up?

Maybe. But check for a broken wire under the playfield in common with the switches that are out.

#1687 58 days ago

it is the bottom row....what should I check based on that? I have never been educated on how to read one of these.
Could someone point me in the right direction.
It is not a wire that is suddenly not connected. it has to be a transistor or something yes?

Screenshot (4) (resized).png
#1688 57 days ago

OK...I found the culprit. It was indeed a broken wire in the chain of the row. Thank you pintechev

#1689 57 days ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

It is not a wire that is suddenly not connected.

Quoted from toddsolus:

OK...I found the culprit. It was indeed a broken wire in the chain of the row.

This made me laugh pretty hard.

#1690 57 days ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

OK...I found the culprit. It was indeed a broken wire in the chain of the row. Thank you pintechev

Glad you got it fixed!

#1691 52 days ago

Hello, I just got some board work done on TOTAN and now the coin door buttons aren’t working? I must have missed something basic when putting the boards back in, but I can’t figure it out. Any idea what it could be or what connector on the mpu board is responsible for the coin door buttons? The coins door buttons were working fine before. Thank you.

#1692 52 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello, I just got some board work done on TOTAN and now the coin door buttons aren’t working? I must have missed something basic when putting the boards back in, but I can’t figure it out. Any idea what it could be or what connector on the mpu board is responsible for the coin door buttons? The coins door buttons were working fine before. Thank you.

First check J104 switch on driver board. The coin door control is also linked to the GI for info.

#1693 52 days ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

First check J104 switch on driver board. The coin door control is also linked to the GI for info.

Check j104 in what way? Also, how would I check the GI and if it’s effecting the coin door buttons. Thank you.

#1694 52 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Check j104 in what way? Also, how would I check the GI and if it’s effecting the coin door buttons. Thank you.

this is just a starting point and an advice since it seems that it's controlled from here so I was just mentionning that this switch is correctly plugged on the board. Now you could check also the setting where you may test those activation but I have no experience on that.

I know the control thing about the GI because it's on the manual and I had to control the coin door with the GI within my project (software controlled).
good luck.

#1695 52 days ago

Thank you!!

1 week later
#1696 39 days ago

I need some help for my homebrew totan.
Can somebody do a switch test for the 3 market switches and give me the switch numbers from the test because the manual is incomplete or faulty.
I don't have a totan so i can't check.

0_IMG_20200525_162321~01 (resized).png
#1697 39 days ago

swiths nb from left to right:
43: left loop
44: inner loop left
45: inner loop right

#1698 39 days ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

swiths nb from left to right:
43: left loop
44: inner loop left
45: inner loop right

Thank for the quick response.
The manual is a mess.
Now i can finish the matrix.

15904180837344759915065739991298 (resized).jpg
#1699 39 days ago
#1700 39 days ago
Quoted from pinballwil:

Thank for the quick response.
The manual is a mess.
Now i can finish the matrix.
[quoted image]

that's great

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There are 1704 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 35.

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