You might want to check to see if adding/removing a washer at the pivot point helps align the coil plunger up a little better with the coil. I had a similar issue with the diverter at the top of the ramp and a washer did the trick.

Ok, so I see CPR & Mirco have TOTAN Playfields. And it also appears CPR is going digital now.

So a couple questions regarding this.

Are Micro and CPR current in stock offering a screen printed or digital printed playfield.

Is Screen or Digital “better”. What are the pros & cons

Does anybody here own either one? How is it holding up?

Mirco = digital, that I know

I am curious about opinions as well as I'd like to snag a repro too.

From what I’m hearing, both are good and sometimes people might get a bad one in which both companies honored and replaced.

Thank you for the tip. I'm not exactly sure where you want me to add the washer, but perhaps it will make more sense tomorrow when I can be in front of the Machine again.

Otherwise it seems turning up the sound volume is the way to go

Just joined the club... 1100 miles round trip., however well worth it

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Alright! Welcome. I made the same 1100 mile trip, well worth it

Congrats!

Ok, so do you guys have the “Shoot Again” always lit?

Seems kind of odd. It does flash off & on, but generally I associate “Shoot Again” with getting an extra ball

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No it shouldn’t be lit all the time. Maybe check the socket

It's probably the lamp matrix. WPC games have good detail on troubleshooting the matrix online. While it could be wiring and that's the first place I'd check it is also very likely something in the lighting matrix path. Check out these sites, the 2nd one really is a good resource.

Oh and btw, it's not GI... those are matrixed lamps. GI acts together (dims and brightens) or is on all the time. No control over individual lights.

http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#lamp

I stand corrected, you are correct sir!

Once I did a lot of tracing, and looked at the links Houdini sent, I started checking the diodes and removed the bulbs. I tried a new socket and diode, but when I compared it to the special Outlane sockets, there it was. Somebody mixed up the top & middle connectors. Once I reversed it, boom. Back in action.

It’s amazing how much havoc a single socket can cause. Bet it was sending power issues all over.

Thanks guys

Great! Now shoot again.

Well I don’t want to say the light issue was holding me down, but beat the Genie first time! That final manual plunge unlimited multiball. J-Pop is a krakhead for thinking this up

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Couple things I discovered being still a noob and I’m sure you know. Didn’t know there was a Superskill shot. Saw the snake come up twice with a higher score and didn’t know.

Also, is it just me, but I certain modes you can move the direction of the ball while it’s on the magnet - was I imagining this. It either followed my flippers left & right or I’m on krak like J-Pop

I did notice the Genie in between the flippers was still lit after defeating him. Not sure what that represents.

And I hit special lit (never seen in lit) in the Outlane and it kraked a game.

That was all I can think of. What a simple but very tricky game with lots of little tricks. It’s definitely never leaving. Gonna get a new PF and hold it until this one gets tattered just to be sure I can play it till the end

Sounds awesome. I've got the princess but that's it. I'm around 26 million. Just fixed a few switches and replaced a few rubbers, I'm sure I'll be better now

Oh and which screen is that? If any game needs it TOTAN does. I like the look of yours, I'll get whatever that is. I'm hoping it's not one of those full monitor ones but it looks like it, no biggie I just thought those installs were weird.

Question for anyone: Why would I get an error report of the ramp magnet and the vanish magnet broken? They both work fine, I've cleared all other errors and tested all switches and they seem to work fine.

I do get another oddity which could be related. I think what causes this is shooting the left loop or something on that side of the game. I can hear a magnet/coil engage that isn't related, I don't think. It sounds like the vanish magnet is energized but it doesn't drop. I'm going to try to pay more attention. I think it also coincides with the message you get when a ball drains that should have been saved by the cage. She says something about pardon me, saved your ball kind of thing. Meanwhile I have no ball near the trough or the rollovers.

I think if I can figure out the magnet broken messages it might lead to this other one or be part of the same issue. I don't know what the game uses to determine a magnet is bad.

Yes, and it goes up in value at least once if you do it consecutively. Haven’t been able to beat the genie myself but have gotten to him a few times....Congrats! I find that I often set my high scores on a game I just worked on, which I think is a “thank you” from the game. Karma right!

I am Totally reaching here as it happened a long time ago but I think I had the same magnet error and the issue was that the large magnet drum somehow rotated? Would not grab or properly release. Only in test would it work. Again totally can’t recall but mine had to do with that mech rotating.

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So regarding the screen, I’m assuming you mean the DMD, it’s a ColorDMD but the original LCD and not the new version. The new version is a little more crisp though, this one came with it so it’s good enough.

Regarding the magnet error, there’s a long discussion about it on this thread (can’t remember what post), might be bookmarked. It’s a bug but I believe it’s related to a switch (I believe the lock ball switches, but don’t quote me). I had that problem for a minute and cleaned all my switches and it hasn’t returned.

Nice prototype

Yup, thanks! I'm gonna grab one soon. I went and put AR glass on the game and have a new playfield and plastics sitting here. I think it needs a color screen to really complete it. I need to check out that TOTAN software update thread when I get some time. I hope that went further along.

One switch that was out was the 3rd lock, but all switches register now and no switch errors. I'll search the thread, ty.

Ah cool, I'll check that. It's reporting both but I've never really done any maintenance or messing with magnets. Obviously the only real issue is the DONG DONG DONG every time someone turns on the game.

Huh? I have 2 older ones and a new one and they all look exactly the same. not sure what your comment refers to

There’s a version 1 and version 2 of ColorDMD LCD. There is also an LED version as well. I only found out there was a version 1 when I went to update the firmware and there was 2 different versions for TOTAN based on which ColorDMD. They do look the same but they’re definitely not. If you update the firmware you’ll see

As far as difference in display, the newer ones are definitely much sharper. I do DOTXL but even with that you can tell the difference

Check out this link, it break it down to older vs newer controller boards

http://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware.html#TOTAN%20ROM

When they (old LCD v.s. new) are both set to standard there is zero difference IMO. The reason the newer ones look better is because of DotXL setting.
You said the new one looks "sharper" which I don't agree with. they look exactly the same. Only difference being the looks of the chassis and the firmware.
As far as the LED display goes, there's definitely a difference there.

My point is, nobody should be discouraged from buying a game with the gen.1 ColorDMD. They are great just like the newer one

Actually not true. DotXL is available on both. The new boards generate the graphics faster and coloring is different.

You can read the detail here

https://www.colordmd.com/chromainfo.html

I do agree with you though, don’t be discouraged using the older ones as the difference is barely noticeable (if at all for some). I can definitely tell though as subtle as it may be. But more to your point Seatmandan I’m not running out and replacing it. I just wanted to reference it’s the older controller because somebody asked about getting one and it’s discontinued. Not sure how you’d get it anyway.

Cause and cure ... when the magnet in front of the genie releases the ball on occasion it will not “jiggle" the ball and causes the ball to drain SDTM
Any suggestions ?

Nothing.

What I did was put an intentional slant to the RH side (Bazaar side) to cause the ball to either contact a spinning genie lamp post, or drive towards the RH flipper slightly. Only thing that works.

A well timed nudge at magnet release.

Had the same issue tried changing the settings etc - finally broke down and replaced the magnet and havent had a SDTM since

So is it true/not true that when the ball is in the Genie magnet you can move the direction on the magnets with the left & right flippers? I could swear this was the case on mine. It’s definitely the case on the digital PBA. The ball will swing left and right when you tap the flippers

Can you guys confirm or deny this in the IRL?

What’s possible is pressing the flipper change the pulse pattern and make the ball swing. The magnet however is pretty basic. This behavior could be seen on RM head on the CV.

That’s what I thought, so that in itself would prevent consistent SDTM’s

In the latest ROM revision, there is a setting to change how hard the magnet flings the ball away on release. Try changing that setting.

What revision number would this be?

This does nothing in the instances where the ball does NOT fling.

Version 1.4. You can get it from IPDB.

If it doesn't fling at all with the latest ROM revision and a 'hard' fling setting, then something may be wrong with the magnet.

In the menu what is the adjustment #?
I installed NVram and since then my magnet is now moving the ball as should after the factory restore
...

It's adjustment A2.27 (MAGNET THROW). See here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms/arabian.html

Thanks for the help !

What i'm saying is, even with the "MAGNET THROW" setting turned all the way up, there are times when it does NOT throw the ball at all, and it still drops SDTM. It's NOT the magnet, because I've tried a brand new magnet and it will still do it sometimes.

I'm pretty sure that this topic is covered in this thread somewhere already, and if not, then its in another thread here on Pinside

I just want to prepare you for the disappointment you'll have when the ball is still dropping SDTM sometimes, that's all.

EDIT: also want to note that I run V1.4 as well.

Mine magnet does not throw the ball either just drops even after I up graded the code. I actually leveled it with a digital meter and when I got it perfectly even left to right, when the Genie let's go of the ball it will drop straight to the tip of the left flipper on my game. So at least I stopped the SDTM releases. I will probably try a new magnet at some point also.

Soooo, being somewhat stuck at home with the kids since school has been shut down, I thought I would tackle installing the skeleton mod. I’m by no means proficient but seems fairly straight forward. Anyway, hooked it up and now the lower left GI string isn’t working. I’m sure I screwed something up because I an cursed when it comes to fixing games on my own. Any suggestions on what I cloud have done and how to fix? Thanks in advance.

Not familiar with the mod, but if you used alligator clips to power something on it, you may have shorted out the bulb you attached it to. Check the associated fuse and replace if it’s blown. Before replacing, and powering back on, see if any clip is touching the base of a socket and anything near by that you may have bumped while installing (resistors bent over, loose wire, etc). Always start with what you did last on the machine.

Thanks! I looked in the manual and found what I thought is the fuse but when I located it on the back box it wasn’t a standard glass fuse that I can change. Believe it’s J105. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

J105 is the value for the wiring to the powerboard for the GI, you will want to check page 1-47 of the manual for the fuse list. You will want to check fuses F110 through F114. These will be glass and found in the lower left portion of the powerboard, right above J105. Make sure the game is off, remove a fuse, check it with a dmm for continuity, replace if bad with a new one that has the proper value and type.
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thank you so much, still learning how to troubleshoot these things! I can break them all day long! Really appreciate the help!

You’re welcome! We all have to start somewhere. Take your time, watch youtube videos and search posts here on pinside, most things have been answered in the past, but can be tricky to find exactly what you need. Pinwiki is a great resource as well.

Lower Left GI is White with a Yellow stripe, which is F112, which is a 4.0Amp fuse. Remember, these I believe are the shorter fuses than standard?

they are the shorter fuses!

I'm getting the ball hangups behind my Genie when the ball doesn't make the ramp! the ball gets caught between the Genie and on top of the ball guide!
is there a plastic that goes behind or a post?