Try reseating the ribbon cables in the backbox. Make sure all the pins on the cables are aligned and cables are pushed on securely. If it still does the repeating, next try GENTLY pushing in on the chips on the MPU board. While in the back box exam your batteries for any signs of corrosion or leakage as well.

Could be a ROM issue related to the settings. It seems like the second animation is launch with the shooter lane switch is activated. I would try a reset factory setting and retest. (Easy test)
Otherwise something wrong with the shooter lane column switch matrix: I would check all the switchs on this raw and maybe the lock too.

Could be a ROM issue yes, as well as shooter lane switch if ball bounces before settling in on the switch completely, good thought!

Thanks for your answers!
Rom instaled is the latest.
Batteries are news and i already have do the Factory reset...

I think too, i will search in this column ans try to check ribbon câble and cpu if all seems to be ok.
I dont remember if this problem was when i bought this pinball.
Its not a huge problem but if bothers me !!!!!

Hi,
I already have m'y problème of the twice "ball one is lock" message but its not the subject here.

This afternoon i was playing my totan, ball goes to the bazar, bazar award started and give to me "special is lit" whats????

Somes shots later a big "special" shows on the dot accompanied by a knocker stroke.
i have a Lost the ball few seconds after so I did not have time to understand the function of this famous "special"

I have make a lot of research and not possible to find anything about this in all games rules or into bazard award features. Its a Ghost...

Did anybody ever get this or have informations about this "special" ( fonction, scoring, how to obtain ...)

Thanksss

Special is lit activate an extra ball once the ball goes into the outlane. If you lost the ball in the middle you don’t have it.

Agreed. you may have hit a Bazaar award “Light special” which is awarded when ball exits the outlanes. That can be set to replay or extra ball or ticket

Hi, thanks for answers About "special" !

Somes news about my problems concerning the double message "first ball is lock" "Ball one is lock"

I have noticed That the second message exactly start when the New ball is ejected to be set into the ball shooter...

Possible that the switch problem will be in the Ball trought assembly? Or launch ball Switch...

YAY! Got my game working. Here's an interesting one..

When I got the game it was working fine. After a short time the game started resetting anytime the ramp magnet activated. As with other WMS games I have I assumed it was a power issue causing a reset. I bought the Rob Kahr power diagnostics board, thinking it would come in handy, and it showed no issues. I looked around at all the magnet wiring, tested the solenoids, etc. Nothing really stood out so I assumed I would have to start rebuilding the 5v power path. As I was putting more and more together it didn't seem like a power issue. I started tinkering around today and noticed that when the game would reset I could also hear a coil clicking. I wasn't sure why, but I unplugged the magnet to see if I could isolate more. Even with the magnet unplugged it would reset, so I was assuming not a power issue. I then noticed the upper ramp diverter trying to move when I triggered the upper ramp switch. I pulled off the plastic on top of that coil and looked around. Tried moving the diverter with my hand and it was REALLY hard to move. Took it all apart, replaced the coil sleeve, put in a nylon bushing instead of the metal washer for the pivot point, polished up everything that slides on each other and noticed that the bend of the diverter was causing the coil plunger to bind. I bent the end of the diverter a bit and polished the plunger and viola, it moves nicely. Turned the game back on, tested... no reset. I'm no expert, but obviously the coil binding did something to reset the game. Maybe it was drawing too much power, maybe there is some protection circuit, not sure why but thought this might come in handy for anyone else who has a similar issue.

I just joined the club and got a TOTAN. I noticed that the fireball magnet is blowing fuse 104. When I replace the fuse the magnet will activate for one ball and "catch" it; however, the second time the ball is momentarily caught by the magnet and quickly released. I think it's being released because the fuse is blowing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Read my post right before yours. Coincidental, not the same exact symptom but maybe something to look into. I would check all of the magnet wiring. It's probably the same magnet under the playfield so maybe you can swap them and see if the magnet has something to do with it.

I would also test it in the solenoid test. See if the fuse blows when activated that way.

Although it looks like fuse 104 is solenoids #9-16 which are the slingshots and the bumpers and such, low power.

They connect on J133 so check that connector for burnt pins on the header or a burnt plug.

Heck, go through all solenoids in the test and see if anything causes the issue.

Totan knowledge group I could use your help. Considering listing my Totan but I'm not exactly sure what I have? lol There are several components that look different from the pics I have researched. Game is in perfect condition just don't want to sell something I'm not fully knowledged in before pulling the trigger. Thanks for any input!!!
IMG_4329 (resized).jpgIMG_4330 (resized).jpg

hello, this is a prototype! I have pictures of other models

Thanks. While I searched I didn't come up with much info on the subject.

check this link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/photos-of-totan-prototype-6

Totan history:

http://www.tilt.it/flipper_pinball/en/flipper-x-files/bally-tales-of-the-arabian-nights/

Also the totan concept history... concept choice and so on
http://www.core77.com/reactor/pinball/

Nice, what number is your prototype? The other ones mentioned were #6 & #21

Long time ago, i had an opportunity to buy one for 1500 euros, i though at the time it was bad customs... it scared me a bit. 3 years ago, there was another one for sale in belgium for 5000 euros.
They did 18 prototypes like this at the time. Some went to europe for really early testing in specific locations (4 or 5 maybe) one in each big countries. At this time, europe was a big customer for WMS. The market changed since then. The others stayed for programing and are often in better shape than the test games.
Piece of history.
Noticeable feature for this one is the « flying carpet » misspell, different wheel color, tiger plastic, purple not fading on the back of the playfield... different texts everywhere...

Bong of Bagdad?!? Looks like the Cheech and Chong version of TOTAN

Anyone with LED upgrade issues?

I started installing LEDs and noticed I am getting quite a bit of flickering. I turned off GI dimming just to see if that had anything to do with it. I have only done part of the lamps so there are still some incandescent installed. Some of the bulbs I used are non-ghosting, some aren't. I was just using up what I had on hand before I ordered more bulbs. All are from Comet. The flickering is most noticeable in the video (sort of like how the DMD shows a refresh pattern but you can't see it in real life) but it's annoying. Before I order more bulbs was wondering if anyone has come across this kind of issue. I did similar LEDs on my TOM and had no issue.

(Yes, I know some colors are different on the playfield... was testing different bulbs to see what I liked best)

Btw, just put the AR glass in that I had sitting for my TOM and it's amazing. I don't know why this game has so much glare for me, maybe it's my lighting or the brightness of the backbox. I have bent plastic installed to stop the DMD glare but the rear of the playfield is still somewhat obscured with reflection even with the AR glass. I am going to throw in a dimmable RGB LED strip on the backboard to see if more light on the playfield will help diffuse the reflection.

I used the OCD board upgrade and it works great no need for non ghosting bulbs. Led strips however strobe like lightning and I ended up pulling them. Except the one under the shooter lane sword plastic.

Ah! Totally forgot about those. Guess I'm going to send some more money around the pinball ecosystem. Thanks!

Also, turn off the power save settings. This caused all kinds of issues on Williams in general with LEDs

Does anyone know the target part numbers for inside the genie? I assume they are just regular rectangle 3D targets for williams like others used in the game but the part numbers in the manual don't match up with anything anyone carries so not sure if they are somehow special. I suppose I could just disassemble them if needed but I don't have a blind rivet setter. Was placing an order with Marco so might as well get them now.

And on that note, any source for those red rectangle targets? Marco is out of stock, BAA is out. A-20846-9 Found some in europe but shipping... ouch

Marco has the opaque version and the transparent replacement face. Wonder if they would swap the faces.

Somebody is selling the full assembly on EBay RN. Not cheap

ebay.com link: 0

Geeeez! I guess NOS can get that, the bracket seems to be hard to find but the rest of the pieces seem easy enough to come by.

I took mine apart today, if anyone was wondering what the switches were inside the genie I think they are something like one of these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-21960-6
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18059-15

I believe they are 1" x 1-3/8". The ones above are for TOM and CV, which seem about the right era and manufacturer. I had to order the ones for my TOM from Europe and both of those above ones are out of stock from Marco. The switches on the genie are also riveted on but I don't see why they can't be drilled out and put on with a nut and screw. It looks like they are standard 3 tab configuration with a diode, just normally closed.

Any help or input on finding similar? Mine are way past due.

Looks like Mad Amusements has the CV one: http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=623

On another note... did some modifications to the lights, I think I'm sticking with this. I have a genie with LED eyes and fireball hand, going to install that but trying to figure out something screwy with the wiring to the genie and to the rear-most loop flasher. For some reason it flashes for every flasher in that string and seems to be also hooked up to the genie light. There is some splicing of wiring in that area of the harness so need to cut some zipties and see what is going on.

I think I'll add a spotlight to the genie.

pasted_image (resized).png

I'm guessing that this is probably close enough, yea?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6027-06

The one in the game seems to be 1-3/8 but 1-1/2 should probably be close enough.

I suppose if it was that important you could change the face or build switches: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8656-15

I feel like my switches might need replacing, lol.

pasted_image (resized).png

Wow, did you pull that Genie from a sunken ship?

I save everything regardless and that will clean up somewhat, but yeah maybe a new one. I’m guess you can Frankenstein one if you really needed to

It's weird because otherwise the game is clean. I'll gonna try and resurrect this one until my Marco order arrives.

Well, this should work for now. 3M bristle brush (my new favorite dremel attachment) got rid of most of the issues. Had to direct solder one of the wires to a blade, the tab broke off, but everything is good now. Filed the contacts, which amazingly were quite thick and not all corroded.
pasted_image (resized).png

Wow! Nice job. Looks brand new

Anyone Buy the CPR Mirrored back glass?
Curious if its a nice upgrade?
Thanks

I saw this the other day and wondered the same thing.

Is this a thing? If you miss the skill shot completely (I think my sword is pushing the ball to the left so sometimes it misses landing on the skill shot) and let the ball drain (with ball save on) you get another ball and another chance at the skill shot.

The skill shot does that if the ball bounces out. There is supposed to be a clear plastic guard on the left of the skill shot holes to prevent the ball from leaving there but I’m missing it.

I noticed if the cage misses the ball and it drains, that is a save

Too quick for the opto to react ?

Or the cage kicks the ball in the air or some other air ball. It's a nice save that I added on to my TOM via firmware.

My genie assembly had a broken tab on the switch as well, and I fixed it the same way. Been that way for quite a while now with zero problems. Nice work!

It looks like your game is missing the clear deflector on the LH side of the skill shot ramp.

Deflector (resized).JPG

missing deflector (resized).JPG

It looks like Marco carries it, but it's out of stock.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-2562-3

LSOG has it.

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-plastics/playfield-plastics-single-plastics/tales-of-the-arabian-nights-skill-shot-clear-plastic-31-2562-3/

Pinbits has it too. Looks like they can also provide the small bracket as well.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=345

EDIT: You'll need to make a small "L" shaped bracket for it to attach it to the skill shot

Nice! Thanks for noticing and looking that up! I thought it was just the alignment of my plunger and sword. So now that you mentioned that I went and looked in my cabinet because the guy I bought the game from included a whole slew of new parts. I got a CPR playfield, CPR plastics, pinballbulbs.com lighting kit and some other stuff. I didn't realize one of the packages was an entire kit from pinbits with what looks like plastic protectors, that skill shot plastic with bracket and looks like another sword plastic. I haven't bothered with most of this stuff because the playfield is in decent shape (normal hole wear) and only 2 plastics were broken. Instead of opening the new plastic set I just grabbed a few pieces and partial set off ebay for cheap. I also have a set of cliffys wanting for the new playfield.

I am working on my TOM playfield right now so once I finish that I'll probably do the TOTAN one. Going to put that side plastic on tonight!

Working on two other issues. The bazaar kickout is still not consistently hitting the flipper (drain). I took it out and it looks like someone had to weld the tabs back together that hold the side to the scoop and didn't quite align it well enough, so there is a wider gap at the top, which seems to let the ball go too far left. I bent the heck out of it and it's better, but I think I might just order the part from Marco.

The other issue is some bunk wiring to the rear most loop flasher. Somehow that is being triggered on all flashers in that row. I need to trace that wiring and see what is going on, there were some weird splices made in that area of the wiring harness with the wires for that lamp and some close by. I'm guessing someone mixed something up.

Btw, what light trigger/tap does everyone use for the genie lit hand/eyes? I have it tied to the jackpot light right now and it seems like it would be much better if the eyes/hand stayed on the entire time specific modes were triggered but I don't see any easy way to do that. Is that how everyone else has it?

I had the same problem with mine (broken welds) replaced it with a marco (mantis) one when I restored it, kicks out perfectly ever since
I do not have any aftermarket mods, so can't really help you on the genie mods. As far as the flasher wiring- the owners manual is invaluable for this!

good luck, -Dan

EDIT:

Looks looks it's out of stock at Marco, and more expensive. ($99.00) Mantis Amusements has it for $75.00

https://mantispinball.com/product/tales-of-the-arabian-nights-bazaar-scoop/

Yeah, I know the wiring pairs that I'm looking at (although sometimes it's hard to tell BLU/RED and BLU/ORG from each other, heh.) I just need to trace it down and see what the prior bozo did to make this all funky.

Thanks for the info, glad to know it's not uncommon. Marco has it, they have two parts listed and one is the "assembly" which is out of stock but they have the metal bracket itself available ($89 I think, I emailed them before).

Is this the replacement for the lock magnet bracket and core (A-18157)?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6141-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4773

Seems like as long as the core diameter is right and I can mount the different looking bracket without issue it should work.

What about this unobtainium part? Any sources? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-10373
The only option I found so far: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/tales-of-the-arabian-nights/04-10373.html

No, I believe that one would be too big of a core for the magnet.
Are you missing the tiger magnet core bracket all together? (A-18157) If so, I might have the used one from my game when I restored it.

The top of the magnet post which sticks through the playfield is worn down. Apparently this is as designed since the metal is softer than the ball (to prevent ball damage) at least that is what I read. The specific part (A-18157) seems, once again, very specific to TOTAN, CV and maybe TOM or something else.

I saw in this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/part-needed-a-18157-magnet-bracket-and-pole-piece-assembly that they talked about a replacement from TZ that was adjustable. What I see in the TZ manual is part A-15257 that looks just like the TOTAN one but would assume it isn't the same size or something, otherwise why a new part number. The other item listed in TZ is A-16140 (https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-16460) which looks like that threaded post mount.

In another thread someone questioned if this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15257 was the same part or size as A-18157 but no one answered. This was for a CV.

I'm gonna email Marco and see if they know.

The TZ adjustable one definitely works

I filed down my original flat but would have needed to tweak it. So the TZ worked out better as you can adjust it over time

Thanks

I found the original part at pinball.center but the site won't give me shipping to the US, I emailed them. Are you able to confirm if those are the proper part numbers for the TZ adjustable one?

- Edit, looks like pinball.center will ship to the US, according to Marshall from Little Shop of Games, so I emailed them. But I'm still interested in the adjustable one since I'm ordering from Marco anyhow. I assume it hasn't been replaced in the entire life of the game so really, adjustable doesn't seem that necessary but ordering one part from EU seems a bit much.

do you have an original one that’s beat to death, or are you missing it all together?