Mine is a CPR Gold we completed the swap about a month and half ago. I had the playfield for a year before the install and so far I'm Really happy not a scratch so far and it looks amazing.

There will always be a playfield for sale. Plenty of guys pick them up and never do the work. Hell I'm sitting on 2! Not totan fyi. Addams and a fire.

Ok, that’s what I figured. Any differences or preferences between CPR or MicroPlayfields?

Cpr for Totan.

My swap was a CPR and it looks great

I figured but why is MicroPlayfields more expensive then?

Are both certified Williams/Bally?

I just completed a full restoration including a CPR playfield for Mike, the owner of CPR. The swap went very well and the playfield is beautiful.

Wow! Man that stinks! Couldn’t hurt to ask someone at CPR about how to repair. It is a great game so hopefully the original in the game is playable! Enjoy!

Anyone on answers on these?

Also wondering if these https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-anti-loft-switch-back-plate.html would fit on the back of the narrow stand up targets for not only stiffness, but to reduce airballs?

Dude, that is garbage. Id totally hit them up and send them these pics. I can imagine they want a Pinside thread showing these images without resolving this

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Did the inserts sink, slip down and you can feel the wood? Thats what it looks like.
If so, it may have been stored flat for 4 years, dont store playfields flat.

Anybody get the CPR TOTAN backglass? Curious on how it looks lit up

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/totan-bg/

Ive been on the fence about CPR Totan. I have Addams and Indy and they are amazing. Its this damn light pan Im thinking just wont work good with glass. Barely works with a translight. I also have all 4 translites and switch up once or twice a year

Yeah I’m waiting for somebody else to be the test of truth. You would think CPR would post a video. It’s too expensive to risk it, so I’m fine waiting. I’ve got other problems to worry about like my next post

Ok, pretty sure this is the “row short” I’ve beem getting on the GRN-BLK Switch wire. I’m not an expert on resisters, but my senses tell me R71 is cooked which coincidentally is the Resistor for the GRN-BLK wire

Or somebody had a bad resistor painting day

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4B9F677F-AA26-4C44-8FC9-E5997D00C3CC (resized).png

I'm delivering Mike's (CPR), TOTAN to him today and he is putting one of his new glasses in it when we get it set up. I'll take some pics and give my thoughts on it for you then.

Please take a pic with the translight then the glass. That way we can see it in the same lighting conditions

Its the curing we are hearing about on so many new tables. When a CPR or Mirco playfield is delivered you should give it about 3-6 months rest before a swap. Storing in climate control is best, closet in house standing strait up.
Just good to not mess with gravity on inserts.
This time will also give clear coats plenty of time to harden and cure.

I thought CPR cured them before delivering? Seems risky to let a customer figure out that responsibility

from the cpr web site: https://classicplayfields.com/playfields/
1. CURE DATE
OPEN UPON ARRIVAL. DO NOT LEAVE BOXED UP. LET PLAYFIELD SIT IN OPEN AIR.
Due to the swift post-production distribution of playfields to waiting customers, it is almost certain that the polyeurethane clearcoat on
your new playfield when arrived in your possession is only 2 to 3 weeks old. Therefore, the cure date for your playfield is recommended
to be 30 days after receipt. Mark your calendar, and don’t skimp on the 30 days. 45 days is even better.
In the meantime, you CAN perform your swap before the cure date if you want. This can be a time consuming and meticulous
process, even for the experienced. So if you want to get a head start, go ahead. Completely swap, just don’t play on it.

this playfield is now 4+ years old. buyer never mentioned inspecting the playfield prior to buying if from another person who bought it from who? how was the playfield stored for 4+ years, was it climate controlled? was it stored vertical or flat?

Don't stock upon parts!

you should get your money back from the the guy you bought it from for not disclosing the issues prior to you buying it. if he did disclose the issues and you bought it anyway then you made a bad decision and need to live with it.

nobody in this hobby is going to warranty a product for 4+ years. there was another thread about this same type of thing where someone bought lamp sockets from marco and 3 years later there were issues and he wanted it warranted ( LMFO ) nobody is going to do that.

maybe next time you inspect the item prior to purchase?

and if you have a 'paint' problem on a car you bought from some guy off the street do you think the car dealership is responsible for repainting the car?
even if that car has a warranty you take it back to the "dealership" for the warranty, you don't put it on an airplane and fly it to Dearborn Michigan and demand the executives at FORD Motor Company fix it for you.

you should either get a refund from the guy that sold it to you....or.....try contacting pps, although i doubt they will do anything about it since you are not the original purchaser and it was purchased 4 years ago

.....and they shouldn't.
4 years is a long time.
I'm not going to debate anybody here, but we were just offering advice.
In no way do I expect either CPR or PPS to be responsible here.
Im sorry your playfield has issues. Try and reach an agreement with the seller. Rick and Kevin have no way of knowing how this playfield has been handled for 4 years, sadly....poorly.

Hey, can somebody take a picture (or link me) the WPC 95 CPU DIPSW1 Setting? I’m not sure if mine are correct an I’ve got no reference.

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That is correct for USA. dip 1 & 2 off, all others on. I also went and pulled the manual and double checked.

Awesome, thanks! I looked up & down the Manual, what page was it on?

Lol...inside front cover.
I'm not making fun, been there.

Wow, I’ll take a big “L” on that one. I’ve been working too long on this, time for a beer

The manual says there is 2 of these purple posts. Do you guys know where the other one goes?

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I have one right at the end of the ball trough before the shooter.

Lol! Woops! Thats the one you showed.

Yeah there doesn’t seem to be a place in the Manual that calls out the post locations. Also the very back of the playfield has 3x post and a rubber and the manual doesn’t even mention that at all.

The kits has 2 of the double ring purple and this clear one. No idea where the go

Anybody have a full rubber & post location playfield mapping?

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Mine is set up with double rings by the pop bumpers, against the ball lock rail.

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Hi everyone, I picked up a TOTAN a few days ago, and have been going thru it, fixing things, and playing it a bit. I noticed last night that when all 3 Lock lights were lit, I could send the ball up the left loop repeatedly and not lock a ball, however, I could lock a ball below the tiger magnet. I went thru the entire switch matrix on edge test, and every single switch works. What am I missing here? I am assuming that since there is a lock light flashing at the left loop , that I should be able to lock a ball, is this not the case? I have game ROM 1.4 Thanks for all help and advice!

Just wondering. Does the diverter open to send the ball into the Tiger loop?

This ball lock can be temperamental. Make sure that when the balls are entering the lock lane from the top, and coming to a rest (specifically locks 2 & 3, lock 1 is a saucer and isn't usually out of adjustment) that when stacked up, they all depress and actuate the microswitches under them. It's usually locks 2 and 3 that need adjustment. switch 3 isn't really a lock, it's just a stack that will tell the game to dump lock 1 and then the top 2 move down.

I had a problem with 2 & 3 for a while, finally dialed it in. Check them with the playfield in the down 6.5 degree position

3 positions (resized).JPG

did you check the left inside orbit switch? this switch tells the magnet to turn on and grab the ball. Does the Magnet turn on? if the switch works in edge test, MAYBE the ball is not depressing it fully when in flight around the orbit. If this is the case, adjust the height of the microswitch under the PF and test the orbit with a ball in edge test with the PF DOWN in the 6.5 deg. position
left loop lock (resized).JPG

great point- if the ball is ending up in the pop bumpers when you're shooting the left orbit when lock is lit, then this is the case

ALSO: I believe that the mode Sinbad and the Rocs does not let you lock with the left orbit when the mode is active. If it's not that mode, then it's another.

Big thanks to those that responded, as it turns out, I did not realize that there was a diverter near the entrance of the left loop. I heard a coil firing in solenoid test, so I thought everything was working. Anyway, when I flipped the playfield up and realized that there was a diverter mech there, upon close inspection, I quickly seen the spring connecting the plunger and diverter arm was broken, good thing I ordered some extras a while back after fixing that same broken spring on my TZ. Thanks to shock_me and Seatmandan!

Nice helpful contribution Seatmandan

Glad you fixed it! nothing better than a fully functioning TOTAN!