Paris
Quoted from Wanderers:Yes I have checked that, it opens and closes correctly. Any uther suggestions.
might come from the CPU board. I would have remove the batteries and reset factory settings.
(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
Topic Gallery
Jackson, TN
Question for the group.
My game is playing great without issue, with the one exception that recently my skill-shot is not registering. All three holes that correspond to the snake pits are not registering/active.
I followed the wires/connections associated with all 3 leafs at all three skill shot pits, and everything appears to be intact, I followed the wire/cable from the pf to underneath the pf which it appears to be well connected. That connection quickly divides into other wires that appear to be intact and going where they should, best I can tell.
Looks like a weekend project coming my way.
Any ideas anyone on how to fix this issue?
Quoted from ChipScott:Question for the group.
My game is playing great without issue, with the one exception that recently my skill-shot is not registering. All three holes that correspond to the snake pits are not registering/active.
I followed the wires/connections associated with all 3 leafs at all three skill shot pits, and everything appears to be intact, I followed the wire/cable from the pf to underneath the pf which it appears to be well connected. That connection quickly divides into other wires that appear to be intact and going where they should, best I can tell.
Looks like a weekend project coming my way.
Any ideas anyone on how to fix this issue?
Ive had this. Those 3 targets take a beating.
I had to replace all 3 diodes. They just get old.
Take a spare diode, bend to switch, now take 3rd hand and hit switch in test. Good way to check before dissemble.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Ive had this. Those 3 targets take a beating.
I had to replace all 3 diodes. They just get old.
Take a spare diode, bend to switch, now take 3rd hand and hit switch in test. Good way to check before dissemble.
Thanks Eric, I'll give that a try when I get home. Thanks for your reply!
Blackburn
Ok iv done the checks stated by noitebe1, still no joy it's quite bizar as the divertor does open when the purple diamonds are lit and a Jewel is then awarded. It won't open though when the magic carpet is lit and the princess calls shoot ramp to collect ( as it should do )
any more thoughts on this would be much appreciated.
Quoted from Wanderers:Ok iv done the checks stated by noitebe1, still no joy it's quite bizar as the divertor does open when the purple diamonds are lit and a Jewel is then awarded. It won't open though when the magic carpet is lit and the princess calls shoot ramp to collect ( as it should do )
any more thoughts on this would be much appreciated.
Did you check all the switch of the first column from 11 to 18 ? (Ramp enter is 15) there are all linked together.
Quoted from Wanderers:No Thankyou I will test all those switches, would they not show up when the machine is switched on with an error message?
Not necessary. Errors pop up when the switch is not acivated after some time but maybe, there is an electrical problem somewhere with bad connection.
1 week later
Hello all! I’m having an issue with the Bazaar Eject coil. While playing two balls got stuck in scoop, and since then, coil will not fire in test nor in game play. Changed coil sleeve and inspected coil, it was not hot. Switch prior to coil tests fine. All fuses test good out of board in 8 month old Rottendog, volts on lugs read 71.5 V on both, volts at J116-6 reads 71.5 V, 7.3 resistance, and breifly grounding out Q70 fires the coil (somewhat, but not a full fire).
I have changed the 3inch ribbon between mpu and pcb, and have reseated all connections as well. In addition, the Vanish Magnet Broken error now shows up after this happened, which never happened on this machine since new pcb was installed, but in test I can hear the magnet fire. No other solenoids are effected and all test good.
Any suggestions on what may be the issue or what to try next are welcomed. Thanks!
Quoted from 2pupPinz:Hello all! I’m having an issue with the Bazaar Eject coil. While playing two balls got stuck in scoop, and since then, coil will not fire in test nor in game play. Changed coil sleeve and inspected coil, it was not hot. Switch prior to coil tests fine. All fuses test good out of board in 8 month old Rottendog, volts on lugs read 71.5 V on both, volts at J116-6 reads 71.5 V, 7.3 resistance, and breifly grounding out Q70 fires the coil (somewhat, but not a full fire).
I have changed the 3inch ribbon between mpu and pcb, and have reseated all connections as well. In addition, the Vanish Magnet Broken error now shows up after this happened, which never happened on this machine since new pcb was installed, but in test I can hear the magnet fire. No other solenoids are effected and all test good.
Any suggestions on what may be the issue or what to try next are welcomed. Thanks!
Are you kidding me?
Im having same problem. Only bazaar scoop not working.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Are you kidding me?
Im having same problem. Only bazaar scoop not working.
Well misery loves company! Hopefully we run into someone who may have had this problem and solved it. Game is a big paperweight without that scoop working.
Quoted from 2pupPinz:Well misery loves company! Hopefully we run into someone who may have had this problem and solved it. Game is a big paperweight without that scoop working.
Yep, big paperweight right now.
I started a thread couple days ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-bazaar-stopped-working-#post-4757934
Ive run through those checks to.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Yep, big paperweight right now.
I started a thread couple days ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-bazaar-stopped-working-#post-4757934
Ive run through those checks to.
I swapped out my pcb with a spare and got it going, any wpc 95 would work. There was a flasher wire that came across the coil and wear caused bare wire exposure that I think caused board damage on mine, so you may want to check close. Before swapping, if you do that, check the resistace on the coil first, so that you don’t damage the swapped in pcb. Mine measured 7.3 ohms if that helps. Test the continuity between coil and the j 116-6 line in the backbox too. Good luck!
Quoted from 2pupPinz:I swapped out my pcb with a spare and got it going, any wpc 95 would work. There was a flasher wire that came across the coil and wear caused bare wire exposure that I think caused board damage on mine, so you may want to check close. Before swapping, if you do that, check the resistace on the coil first, so that you don’t damage the swapped in pcb. Mine measured 7.3 ohms if that helps. Test the continuity between coil and the j 116-6 line in the backbox too. Good luck!
Thanks a lot I'll check all that tomorrow. Wouldn't you know I have a big party at my house with about 40-50 people tomorrow. No Totan. Arabian is my only WPC 95 game. I'm almost certain that it's Q70 for some reason just decided not to work anymore, and I don't have any spares that are that size.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thanks a lot I'll check all that tomorrow. Wouldn't you know I have a big party at my house with about 40-50 people tomorrow. No Totan. Arabian is my only WPC 95 game. I'm almost certain that it's Q70 for some reason just decided not to work anymore, and I don't have any spares that are that size.
Maybe ping Pat Choy at Endless Pinball - maybe he has a spare.
3 weeks later
I’m back in the club with my second totan I picked up last sunmer. This second one is better than my first. Great of and cab, no fade. I have it shopped and clean. We love it. Wife says I have to keep it and some day give it to my baby girl.
The blue powder coat looks great drfrightner
Quoted from drfrightner:Restoring a TOTAN check out the powder coating. What do you think?
This machine is getting new speakers, color screen, sideblade art, mods, and a new translite. [quoted image][quoted image]
Don't think i've ever seen teal trim on that machine before. Looks pretty neat.
The contrast of the typical side art blades are rather orange (essentially more of the art seen in the back wall above the pf), and the complimentary color scheme (orange/blue) of those art blades directly up to the blue/teal trim may be better visually blended with mirror blades (which in turn would bounce many colors from the pf up the sides en route to your teal trim color choice). Just an idea.
If you are thinking about going all out, a few months ago i found a company (pimpmypin.com) that makes an easy to install LED light mod for under the sword that illuminates along the ball path upon shooting the ball (en route to the skill shot baskets). Took me 5 minutes to do and i think it looks really awesome. I think they have a quick video on their website that you can check out.
Also, since you are going over the whole machine, i don't think you can go wrong changing the lamp to the shiny one with the gems...I changed mine to shiny and its a really great look for an item that's front and center in the game.
Quoted from drfrightner:Restoring a TOTAN check out the powder coating. What do you think?
That's the first powdercoating I've ever seen on a pin where I didn't absolutely hate it. Very nice color choice.
2 weeks later
Try looking over anything you may have worked on recently prior to it happening. If you changed any GI leds, inspect the sockets, looking for possibly a bent tab touching the center of the socket or a broken wire. I’ve been there as well, it just takes time to find it, thats why I suggest looking at the last place you may have worked on the game, happened on my CV.
Quoted from 2pupPinz:Try looking over anything you may have worked on recently prior to it happening. If you changed any GI leds, inspect the sockets, looking for possibly a bent tab touching the center of the socket or a broken wire. I’ve been there as well, it just takes time to find it, thats why I suggest looking at the last place you may have worked on the game, happened on my CV.
Thankyou for your help, I have now found the culprit. It was a crockadile clip from a mod fitted touching.
Something so simple.
Thank you for your advice.
Regards Simon
Quoted from Wanderers:Thankyou for your help, I have now found the culprit. It was a crockadile clip from a mod fitted touching.
Something so simple.
Thank you for your advice.
Regards Simon
Yeah, this happened to me on my TOTAN a month or so back when I attached some alligator clips to the sling shot lights to illuminate the trough...they were touching the attached wires and I knocked out that side GI row. Had to replace fuse and just omitted the trough light. Maybe I try again this weekend... 
Group question. I have had my Row 1 GI lights go out in the past and it correlates to the fuse f114 which is a 4 amp 250V fast blow fuse and I have replaced that and it fixed the issue for about 3 months. Today this is happened again and when I replaced the fuse it just kept blowing, three times over. I think I need to change the Q5 transistor. I don't know, I gave this a fair amount of thought. I'm not so sure it could be anything else??? It says it is a BT 135-E which is a 3-prong transistor available at Action Pinball on their website. I went ahead and ordered a couple of just to have them. What do you all think?
Thanks!!
1 week later
Quoted from pinballdork:Made a Alt translite with art purchased online. I changed the jewel in her head piece to red, and I will put a lamp behind it to light when her ruby lights. And I put in a new Lamp from -Alibaba-.
Looks great EXCEPT-- the Tiger looks like it's out of a Disney movie. (Jungle Book?) Maybe needs to look a little more realistic
Update to above. Replaced the transistor and same row 1 lights out and fuse blowing immediately. Ran over all White-Brown wires and sure as shit if I didn't find a hidden brown wire almost out of plain sight hanging on by a thread in the dead center of the pf. Re-soldered, and then went through the entire row 1 wires and made sure no wires touching anywhere, again. Interestingly, when I removed that light socket to re-solder the loose brown wire, I noticed the top of the bulb in the LED within that socket rotated around, which is not normal and replaced it. Anyway, after all of that, turned her on and Bam, good to go...whew...
1 week later
Quoted from Seatmandan:Looks great EXCEPT-- the Tiger looks like it's out of a Disney movie. (Jungle Book?) Maybe needs to look a little more realistic
I agree, I made the mistake of asking my wife, about some darker versions I modified (the lower pic). She said she liked the lighter one... I wasn't sure. It's still cartoony but I thought a little more subtle.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
1 week later
Manly
Quoted from wolfemaaan:Joined the club today. Drove 10 hours (5 there and 5 back) and worth it. Gonna need to clean it up but it’s in good condition
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sweet, I usually have to drive 12 hours each way. Your gonna love it 
welcome to the club 
Finally in this club! No pictures until I get it polished up a bit. Looks like it has sat for at least 5 years or so in a garage but it appears to have been restored at some point prior.
So stoked! Been looking for this deck for a while. 
Quoted from JosiahCox:Finally in this club! No pictures until I get it polished up a bit. Looks like it has sat for at least 5 years or so in a garage but it appears to have been restored at some point prior.
So stoked! Been looking for this deck for a while.
Congrats! I got one in the same way. How could somebody neglect this beautiful machine?
So this brings me to this subject, why do people treat legendary machines like red headed step child’s?
So when you go out and buy a used pin, are you looking to pay more money for certain things to be good, buy a diamond in the rough and stoked you got a deal on a machine you’re gonna make mint, or are you like F’ it I just want to try this pin and maybe sell it if I don’t like it and not gonna Repair jack on it
I’m pretty confused. But everyone has a different idea of why they want a pin, so curious how you got your TOTAN and what was the final purchase decision.
I’ll tell my reason once I’ve got yours
Quoted from wolfemaaan:So this brings me to this subject, why do people treat legendary machines like red headed step child’s?
So when you go out and buy a used pin, are you looking to pay more money for certain things to be good, buy a diamond in the rough and stoked you got a deal on a machine you’re gonna make mint, or are you like F’ it I just want to try this pin and maybe sell it if I don’t like it and not gonna Repair jack on it
I’m pretty confused. But everyone has a different idea of why they want a pin, so curious how you got your TOTAN and what was the final purchase decision.
I’ll tell my reason once I’ve got yours
For me, when it came to buying my Arabian Nights, I did not want a project pin, in this case, I was looking for a diamond. When I found mine, it looked gorgeous, had new CPR pf, electronics had been gone through, all LED conversion with a number of new light sockets, shiney new golden lamp with jewels, it was brassed out everywhere, there was laseriffic topper, and I just couldn't help myself...hahaha... It was a bit pricey, I will admit, but I probably would have spent that money anyway to get it to that level. So I rationalized the higher price for that used machine as such.
That said, the boards were all original, and that has been the only issue(s) since my purchase. I've had to replace a transistor and fuse here and there, and at the current time, my unregulated 12-volt all of a sudden went out, and I figure I need to replace the associated 4 diodes and C8 capacitor, which I'll probably be doing this coming week. I hope it resolves the current issue because as of right now it is a gorgeous unplayable machine...pinball issues....
3 weeks later
NB
That mounts on the topside, lights up the shooter lane. I did a swap on mine a few years ago. Still remember.
Quoted from shock_me:Just finishing up a playfield swap on TOTAN. Can someone tell me if this socket mounts beside the trough eject or not?
[quoted image][quoted image]
3 weeks later
Our $100 Totan restore is coming along. Playfield is complete new CPR Gold Playfield, new arpon, new plastics, new ramps, most brass playfield parts from Pinballplating haven't done the lamp yet I'll wait till its complete to deside if I want that and plenty of other new parts and hardware.
Now on to the cabinet, I got a complete orginal Totan cab on the way, already ordered the Radcals from Mirco. Hope to have this complete in the month or so can't wait to finish it.
3cac0a0df5608b8773ea126b1cf9ba3b74d7abcf (resized).jpg676e1fe4f0a79e9f511636de020719fdbf05f7b5 (resized).jpg_MG_7408 (resized).jpg_MG_7423 (resized).jpg_MG_7433 (resized).jpgWell... drive by post to say hi. Picking up a TOTAN with a spare CPR Gold playfield next weekend, spare plastics and new ramps. Looking forward to adding a color DMD and eventually doing the playfield swap. I believe the cabinet has no fade (if I can see the red then there is no fade, right?)
Quoted from Birdnest:Had Robert Stone put black with gold flake - May not be the usual path but I love how it turned out
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That. Looks. Awesome.
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