Bend, OR
If anyone is interested in a trade for AFMr, let me know!
(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
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Quoted from dts:If anyone is interested in a trade for AFMr, let me know!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-or-trade-totan-attack-from-mars-remake-le#post-4174354
Well, good luck! TotAN is a far superior game!
Calgary, AB
Quoted from doompin:So I finally had time to mess around with this. Voltage was good right up to the trough optos, so I pulled them out and the issue turned out to be pretty strange and is still not really resolved. The new receiver boards (I have 2) only detect the transmitters from about 1" apart, which is obviously narrower than the ball trough so it appeared not to be working at all. When I put the old receiver board back on I can hold it about 8' apart from the receiver (new or old) and it works fine. So for now the original receiver is back in but that means the game is still acting glitchy and kicking out an extra ball occasionally. I ordered the optos from pinball life. Have any of you ever had this sort of issue before?
I had this problem ( ball being kicked out occasionally) and I reflowed the trough pins and it fixed it....FYI.
Manly
?
Quoted from Whitewater:Hi guys, is it true that there is going to be a 3D translite for TOTAN ?
I guess so... there was some talk a while ago, though I find this art so ugly...
Quoted from Seatmandan:I was getting the exact same problem when I bought my TOTAN. Mine was a flaky microswitch in the tunnel just under the vanishing magnet. I replaced the microswitch and have NEVER gotten the error since.
EDIT: Keep in mind, the only way to activate this switch is either through the Magnet dropping to start multiball or the Harem sneak-in hole. If you play so many games in a row WITHOUT actuating the switch, it triggers the error. This might be the problem if the switch is fine. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that this is the error it throws instead of "check switch 12 vanish tunnel"
here's the switch:
Thanks for posting this info. I realized that my machine wasn't launching multiball even after a ball would drop down into the playfield on the magnet. I'm assuming this is switch a-12238, which is listed in the manual as Switch Location 12 'Vanish Tunnel.' I know I can adjust this switch, but I'd rather replace it and I'm having a hard time finding the replacement online. Bay Area is sold out and Marcos doesn't even list it.
You mentioned that you replaced the switch, do you remember where you found it?
Thanks,
Brad
Quoted from xsonics2k2:You mentioned that you replaced the switch, do you remember where you found it?
use this switch body, and transfer the wire actuator lever over: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860
With these diodes: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173
The unique number for the part in the manual (A-12238 in this case) pertains to the actuator lever itself, really. all the switch bodies are 3-pole DA3 switches, usually the easy-actuation force like the one listed above. Just transfer the flat lever over and solder a NEW 1N4004 diode on, and then install. Should fix all your problems. buying a few of these when ordering can't hurt- you probably will be replacing others in the future, especially if you own multiple B/W pins!
I've used this one as well and it works just fine. I think it is a stronger pressure on the button:
1 week later
My new TOTAN finally arrived! I am in absolute love with this game. The machine had been completely refurbished up in New York City (restore work by Eddie Cramer, brass plating by Mike Chestnut before he passed). I worked with Kaneda who sold me the machine. He was absolutely a delight to work with. Great communication, very straightforward and knowledgeable. He helped me to organize both the wrapping for shipping (thank you Fast Eddie!! Pic of Fast Eddie at his shop below with the game all wrapped and ready 
) as well as the shipping. I have been now up all night playing. It plays flawlessly. Man, I wish I didn't have to work today... I'm so tired, but you better believe I'm going to play it again when I get home!
1 week later
Quoted from Seatmandan:use this switch body, and transfer the wire actuator lever over: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860
With these diodes: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173
The unique number for the part in the manual (A-12238 in this case) pertains to the actuator lever itself, really. all the switch bodies are 3-pole DA3 switches, usually the easy-actuation force like the one listed above. Just transfer the flat lever over and solder a NEW 1N4004 diode on, and then install. Should fix all your problems. buying a few of these when ordering can't hurt- you probably will be replacing others in the future, especially if you own multiple B/W pins!
I've used this one as well and it works just fine. I think it is a stronger pressure on the button:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=830
Thanks for the detailed info Seatmandan! I'm finally getting around to fixing it this evening.
Quoted from xsonics2k2:Thanks for the detailed info Seatmandan! I'm finally getting around to fixing it this evening
No problem! Glad I could help! This game is great when everything works properly!
1 week later
Quoted from Whitewater:Hi guys does anyone know where I can get a reproduction playfield for TOTAN? Any help would be greatly appreciated
It’s on the planning from Mirco. Don’t know when it is expected for production. There is a topic on this.
HEY TOTAN FANS! Chroma Pinball/Mezel Mods was kind enough to send me a custom sample pack of their colored lock nuts. I have been working with a collector doing high end shop outs of all his A-List Games. I have been trying out some of these Chroma Lock nuts on several of his machines I thought you might like to see what I have done so far with TOTAN. I thinks they work perfectly with the lamp. Also it is nice that TITAN Pinball does the special bulky size Post Rings which is what you see installed in Yellow. Enjoy and feel free to comment good or bad what you think.
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Quoted from BentleyBear:Here's mine from pinballdecals
Looks fantastic! I looked it up on the site and it is a little expensive especially since it does not light up. You should add the gold/orange chrome lock-nuts to complete an awesome lamp!
Quoted from BentleyBear:Here's mine from pinballdecals
ModFather’s also has a bejeweled lamp,$49. It is still very nice.
Just installed the purple spinning lamp disc and clear rubber side posts from PPS. I like it on this TOTAN. I liked the red disc too with yellow rubbers, but thought a change may be nice.
Quoted from ChipScott:Just installed the purple spinning lamp disc and clear rubber side posts from PPS. I like it on this TOTAN. I liked the red disc too with yellow rubbers, but thought a change may be nice.
Looks great!
Quoted from Methos:Is there any lamp reproduction out there that is a step up from the original? My original is beat up.
Would you settle for a NOS? Bought it a few years ago when my machine was being restored but didn't need to use it.
Quoted from Whitewater:Hi guys does anyone know where I can get a reproduction playfield for TOTAN? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Planetary Pinball Supply has CPR repro pf for $899.
Quoted from ChipScott:Just installed the purple spinning lamp disc and clear rubber side posts from PPS. I like it on this TOTAN. I liked the red disc too with yellow rubbers, but thought a change may be nice.
Thanks for posting this. I've been thinking of doing the same color combo. Did you change the color bulbs underneath as well?
Quoted from ChipScott:Planetary Pinball Supply has CPR repro pf for $899.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?
Their website says 'out of stock' ?
Quoted from mollyspub:Thanks for posting this. I've been thinking of doing the same color combo. Did you change the color bulbs underneath as well?
Thanks! I wasnt sure how it would look... I've been so used to the red disk for so long, but I think the purple looks great in person and I think it adds a sleek look to the pf in comparison. I picked it up from PPS about 1 month ago, but looks like they're already out. I bet if one was to call them, they could get more. I used Countaker super bright LEDs underneath.
Quoted from Whitewater:Their website says 'out of stock' ?
Yeah, I noticed they have it listed on their website, but no way to purchace. Not sure if that changed recently, but sorry to mislead you. May be worth calling them and checking though.
I did find this random thread from late last year with a fellow trying to sell one as well. His last post says "still for sale". May be worth investigating. I'll keep an eye out too for you.
Quoted from Methos:Is there any lamp reproduction out there that is a step up from the original? My original is beat up.
Just go to your hobby store by some jewels and glue them on with tweezers. If you want get some gold paint.
Quoted from Whitewater:Their website says 'out of stock' ?
Micro is making run of Totan playfields.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Micro is making run of Totan playfields.
Wow that is great. Thank you
Quoted from Whitewater:Wow that is great. Thank you
My first playfield swap was on my TOTAN, major job,but,worth it. I just did a swap on a Funhouse, Mirco playfield, they have good quality replacements. They are dimpled & for the most part, correct in placement of all the parts. When you swap, there are a few threads on TOTAN, they help a lot.
1 week later
purchased a shooter ball from Modfather and sent in my genie for painting (great job! imho)
It was suggested to use a clear "hard as nails) to protect the bottom of the
genie from ball strikes and I found that Diamond Strength in the nail section -
a bit more pricey, but I put it on the genie and also the shooter rod -
seems to be holding up great.
Now I wish someone could help with telling me how or what to use/buy to add a crystal ball
to the genie's hand and hook up a red or blue LED to light with the Fireball mode.
Hi all, the tiger loop magnet on my machine is locking on, it’s very hot when I touch it. I figured that there is a bad transistor so I did a search in the test mode and am not sure how to make sense of what I found. What pops up is “drives q66-62-51” I found and replaced transistor q66 but can’t seem to figure out what 62 and 51 refer to, they are not labeled transistors and can’t locate them in the manual, what could those numbers be?
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from Jsampel:Hi, I just joined the club a couple weeks ago. I love the game but I like playing with the lights off and even with led’s the playfield seems dark so I was wondering if anyone has tried pinstadium lights?
I just joined the club recently, too. I felt like the pinstadium lights were pretty expensive, and I was also worried about difficulty lifting the glass and the playfield once the system was installed. To be fair, I didn't fully understand how they attached, so I could be wrong about it being a problem, but I thought I had read some people raising that concern. Also, I don't have wifi where my pin is, and if I recall correctly you need that for the remote to work. I ended up getting a couple of spotlights and aiming them around the playfield. I'm really happy with how they look, and the cost was substantially lower. I'm using purple LEDs that give it a really awesome sort-of "black light" feel.
2 weeks later
1 week later
I could use some help from some fellow TOTAN members in figuring out what on earth is going on with the flashers under my magic lamp and how to fix them. First, Lloyd was kind enough to point out the wrong lamps were being used. And now that I've got all those switched out to the proper #906 bulbs, I'm trying to figure out why only one of the three sockets work.
I strongly suspect some previous owner has done something weird with the wiring and would very much like to know what the correct path would be. I traced the two lamps that aren't lighting from their orange & white/orange wires to an LED flasher as the source. (Not too clear on how any of this was supposed to get power!)
So for starters, the flasher (which I can't really find listed in the manual) is next to the red standup targets and ball lock. I circled the spot in photo #1.
Photo #2 shows the underside of where this flasher goes. Here you will see (1) two white/orange wires and (2) two orange wires. These continue to travel into photo #3.
In photo #3 I have drawn red arrows to show the path of the wires - they travel through two 2-pin connectors plugged into each other where they become a single orange and single white/orange wire that travel up to one dead socket and then a second dead socket that’s concealed in the photo. I performed a continuity test to confirm this was the right path. Also, a green arrow points to a third socket – the only one that works – that runs off a different circuit using red/white & blue wires.
So my first question is what would be the proper run for the wires running to the two dead sockets? (Should I just continue a run from the red/white & blue wires going to the one working socket?) Second, what would be the proper run to that mysterious flasher next to the ball lock? (Is it supposed to switch on when the magic lamp flashers illuminate?) Third, since I can’t find it in the manual, does anyone know what the proper flasher would be for that spot? (It’s currently a CT 6.3 VAC which looks fried, so I doubt it’s the right one.)
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 copy (resized).jpgBump. Hoping someone can check their TOTAN and see how their lights in my photos above are wired. Shouldn't all the magic lamp flashers run off the same wires?
Quoted from rennervision:Bump. Hoping someone can check their TOTAN and see how their lights in my photos above are wired. Shouldn't all the magic lamp flashers run off the same wires?
Check IPDB, for pictures. I can check mine this evening, if you still need help.
Quoted from grahamvinyl:I just joined the club recently, too. I felt like the pinstadium lights were pretty expensive, and I was also worried about difficulty lifting the glass and the playfield once the system was installed. To be fair, I didn't fully understand how they attached, so I could be wrong about it being a problem, but I thought I had read some people raising that concern. Also, I don't have wifi where my pin is, and if I recall correctly you need that for the remote to work. I ended up getting a couple of spotlights and aiming them around the playfield. I'm really happy with how they look, and the cost was substantially lower. I'm using purple LEDs that give it a really awesome sort-of "black light" feel.
I recently installed the Pinstadiums on TOTAN and highly recommend them. No big deal temp removing them and placing on playfield when you need to raise the hood. I don't believe you need wi-fi to operate them, but it may make it more convenient to manage several pins at once. The Pinstadium PCB acts as it's own wi-fi. Here is my before and after
Quoted from rennervision:Bump. Hoping someone can check their TOTAN and see how their lights in my photos above are wired. Shouldn't all the magic lamp flashers run off the same wires?
Do you have incandescent and LED lamps on the same circuit?
Quoted from HIPPY:Check IPDB, for pictures. I can check mine this evening, if you still need help.
Thanks. There's one photo of the underside uploaded by Treasure Cove, but unfortunately the resolution is too low for me to zoom in and see what's going on under the magic lamp.
Quoted from Tbachli:Do you have incandescent and LED lamps on the same circuit?
For the circuit giving me trouble, the cable run looks like it starts with a 6.3 volt LED flasher next to the ball lock (flasher looks fried/corroded and I'm assuming it's the wrong lamp type for this spot) to a #906 incandescent for the magic lamp to another #906 incandescent for the magic lamp. They are connected by orange & white/orange wires and - unless I'm totally missing something - it seems to me they are unattached to any power source. But, looking from underneath, I have another #906 bulb on the right side of the lamp which is connected to a completely different string of wires (red/white & blue) and that one lights fine.
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