Try a padded decal on it
Quoted from mollyspub:anyone know where you can purchase this VULTURE mod ? » YouTube video. maybe its homemade
Beautiful restoration job (love the gold finish), but too many mods/toys that get more attention than they deserve... and worse: blocking the ball view.... Not my cup of tea anymore.... I'm in the process of "de-modding" all my pins... started with TZ and TAF, and I can definitely state that less is more!
Hi guys
My Smoke #10 lamp has stopped working. I think I have traced the problem to a small black and grey thing on the pcb board that seems to have failed. Can anyone please tell me what the exact name and details for the little thing located at D4 is so I can buy one and solder it in.
Please see pictures
Greatly appreciated.
Quoted from Coyote:That's a diode. A 1N4004 should do just fine there.
Great. I have replaced the diode and it is flashing perfectly. Such an easy fix. Thanks
Just joined the club this afternoon.
Serial number: 53347102359
Production date: July 30, 1996
Domestic machine.
It's in beautiful condition, 100% working. Nice looking side art, tasteful (not blinding) LEDs.
It was reconditioned by Treasure Cove three years ago with little play afterwards.
I am absolutely delighted to finally own a title that I have wanted for years.
Now if I can find a couple of large bodies in this neighborhood to help me schlep this thing down my basement stairs, get it in and set up, I'll be golden.
Quoted from Alan_L:Just joined the club this afternoon.
Serial number: 53347102359
Production date: July 30, 1996
Congrats!! Took me several years to trade up till I had one to.
Makes me wonder about my build date and serial #, will look tonight.
I've been slowly tweaking/tightening up my TOTAN over the last couple months. I noticed that there are "guard plastics" on the top of the swirl ramp and near the entrance to that ramp...looking a little beat up. These plastics aren't for sale anywhere in the states, though I found a place in Australia that sells them. Just not a common part, I guess. Anyone find any more local sources?
Also, could someone post some photos of the ramp ends near the inlanes? I'm suspicious that my right ramp might be ending too high. Also, the ball seems to sometimes get stuck on the right inlane switch slot. I'm guessing this happens on all sorts of pinball machines if the ball is moving slow enough, but oddly haven't seen it before on my other two pins. Any thoughts on how to prevent it?
Congrats Al. Glad you bought my game. I sold it to buy the one from Dave in Reading. This says a lot for the kind of work that Dave does. Everybody's happy. I call it a Gentlemans game. Enjoy,and thanks for the sale.
Quoted from jsa:I've been slowly tweaking/tightening up my TOTAN over the last couple months. I noticed that there are "guard plastics" on the top of the swirl ramp and near the entrance to that ramp...looking a little beat up. These plastics aren't for sale anywhere in the states, though I found a place in Australia that sells them. Just not a common part, I guess. Anyone find any more local sources?
Also, could someone post some photos of the ramp ends near the inlanes? I'm suspicious that my right ramp might be ending too high. Also, the ball seems to sometimes get stuck on the right inlane switch slot. I'm guessing this happens on all sorts of pinball machines if the ball is moving slow enough, but oddly haven't seen it before on my other two pins. Any thoughts on how to prevent it?
Can you take some pics of the plastics you’re talking about? I am pretty sure pinbits has all the clear plastics, but I wanted to be sure.
Quoted from pintechev:Can you take some pics of the plastics you’re talking about? I am pretty sure pinbits has all the clear plastics, but I wanted to be sure.
Here is the first one:
Here is the second one:
Here is the spot my ball gets stuck on all the time:
Quoted from jsa:Here is the first one:
Here is the second one:
Here is the spot my ball gets stuck on all the time:
Pinbits to the rescue!
As for the ball getting stuck, I haven't seen that. I will be home tomorrow again and I'll grab some pictures for you.
Marc
Quoted from pintechev:Pinbits to the rescue!
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_22&products_id=315&zenid=811a77854a068ebfa5ebeb479397e8f7
As for the ball getting stuck, I haven't seen that. I will be home tomorrow again and I'll grab some pictures for you.
Marc
Pinbits seems to be broken, it keeps saying "NOT AVAILABLE AT THIS TIME" and "Sorry, we are not shipping to your region at this time.
Please contact us for alternate arrangements." Note that I'm in the Bay Area in California, kind of strange error, huh?
Sounds like their site is having an issue. I would email or call. They're great people and they'll certainly help you.
Quoted from locksmith:Congrats Al. Glad you bought my game. I sold it to buy the one from Dave in Reading. This says a lot for the kind of work that Dave does. Everybody's happy. I call it a Gentlemans game. Enjoy,and thanks for the sale.
Nick, you are so very welcome. It was a pleasure dealing with someone who is honest and trustworthy, not to mention the owner of some beautiful games.
Now if I could get Eric Clapton's autograph on my translate, that would finish it.
Quoted from jsa:Pinbits seems to be broken, it keeps saying "NOT AVAILABLE AT THIS TIME" and "Sorry, we are not shipping to your region at this time.
Please contact us for alternate arrangements." Note that I'm in the Bay Area in California, kind of strange error, huh?
I show it working, ordered a few things yesterday. Got emails and confirmation.
Im also in ca.
Pam at pinbits is awesome, done some really nice things for me over the years.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:I show it working, ordered a few things yesterday. Got emails and confirmation.
Im also in ca.
Pam at pinbits is awesome, done some really nice things for me over the years.
Ok, I sent a note. Hopefully it's a minor glitch. I checked again, it's still gives me a checkout error.
Quoted from jsa:Ok, I sent a note. Hopefully it's a minor glitch. I checked again, it's still gives me a checkout error.
Just email: [email protected] and she'll take care of you.
-mof
Last night I checked my playfield pitch - the manual recommends 6.5 degrees and mine was at 6.4. As an experiment, I adjusted it to 6.7 and am loving it! No more balls flying off the ramp and getting stuck in the corner! No balls getting stuck on the magnet Cliffy! Faster play in general!
The only persistent problem I was hoping to solve was that when a weak ramp shot spirals back, the ball drops into the pops, rather than onto the right "snake" ramp.
I recently did a Playfield swap,my first & all is well,love the game, always wanted one. A real beauty & a pleasure to play. I only have one issue I am hoping someone can give me more ideas. Just about every game, I am given 2 balls,once, on the second & third balls. The trough boards have been replaced with the new upgraded ones,all switches are good. No loose wires. Only thing I can think of left is the optic board. Any ideas? Thanks,folks.
Just joined the club. Got brass trim on the way. Does anyone know if the laseriffic topper is interactive? Like does it do stuff with the game? Also i bought mine for 6500 with a color dmd bunch of mods. I can get a clear coat playfield for 600. Do you guys think its worth doing new cab decals and playfield swap. I plan on keeping it for ever but also from an investment stand point. My playfield is average
I'm kind of a perfectionist in my vision of what a machine should look like.
So every machine eventually under goes a restoration.
So if you are keeping it , I'd say make it as nice as you want
I think we have reached a point in time where an unrestored pinball in a well maintained state with some patina will have a higher future value than a complete restored pinball. One thing is for sure: patina games will be scarcer in time and well restored can be created any time.
I did a CPR swap on mine, routed a long time, big job. New play field is great, except air balls are an issue. Doing a Funhouse decals & play field currently, decals are tough. Only do them if you have to. All imperfections on the wood show.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Do you guys think its worth doing new cab decals
Decals make the game look BRAND NEW. they are not too hard either if the cabinet wood is in excellent shape and all you have is fade, like mine was.
Original Decals-01 (resized).JPG
Cabinet Refinishing-02 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Seatmandan:Decals make the game look BRAND NEW. they are not too hard either if the cabinet wood is in excellent shape and all you have is fade, like mine was.
looks great. How long did it take (including pulling PF, etc)
Quoted from Seatmandan:Decals make the game look BRAND NEW. they are not too hard either if the cabinet wood is in excellent shape and all you have is fade, like mine was.
Where did you buy decals? Ive seen a few spots and differnt prices
Quoted from HIPPY:I did a CPR swap on mine, routed a long time, big job. New play field is great, except air balls are an issue. Doing a Funhouse decals & play field currently, decals are tough. Only do them if you have to. All imperfections on the wood show.
Do the airballs mess up the clear coat
Quoted from jake35:looks great. How long did it take (including pulling PF, etc)
I believe this post details it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-club/page/8#post-2993193
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Where did you buy decals? Ive seen a few spots and differnt prices
Ordered mine from Planetary Pinball Supply, who doesn't seem to carry TOTAN ones anymore. PDI seems to have the same ones, for around the same price. I know that the ones I got from PPS were "Genuine BW replacement" printed with "Next-generation" printing. see image
Quoted from Seatmandan:Ordered mine from Planetary Pinball Supply, who doesn't seem to carry TOTAN ones anymore. PDI seems to have the same ones, for around the same price. I know that the ones I got from PPS were "Genuine BW replacement" printed with "Next-generation" printing. see image
Thanks a ton
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Thanks a ton
Not a problem! Maybe contact PPS to see if they still sell them even though they are not shown on their site. They were excellent to deal with!
Quoted from Seatmandan:Not a problem! Maybe contact PPS to see if they still sell them even though they are not shown on their site. They were excellent to deal with!
What starting grit did you use and finish?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:What starting grit did you use and finish?
60 to start, then 120 to remove the sanding swirl marks, then 240 to smooth it all out. after priming and painting, 240 to finish.
What I meant by the air balls being an issue, is on a new Playfield the ball travels much faster than before, therefore it flys up into places like between ramps. & Gets stuck. I used the original coils, rebuilt the hardware,so, the coils weren't the problem. In answer to your question, no damage to the Playfield, scarey,though. One of the positives of doing a swap is you will get to know your TOTAN very well & hold all of it's parts & mechanisms in your hand. Clean, adjust,replace if necessary. If you do, there are a few good threads available on this site. Very helpful.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Just installed GI ocd board. What a difference it made!
What do you notice as a visible difference?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:What do you notice as a visible difference?
Well multiball its a soft fade now instead of flicker. During make a wish it fades to a nice soft glow. Before i had alot of flickering and it stopped that. During lightning lamp its alot less violent in the lighting.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Well multiball its a soft fade now instead of flicker. During make a wish it fades to a nice soft glow. Before i had alot of flickering and it stopped that. During lightning lamp its alot less violent in the lighting.
I recommend setting the fade delay to 25. Smooths out the GI effects.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Well multiball its a soft fade now instead of flicker. During make a wish it fades to a nice soft glow. Before i had alot of flickering and it stopped that. During lightning lamp its alot less violent in the lighting.
I'd like to see someone post a video on this . I don't see anything wrong without this mod.
Quoted from mollyspub:I'd like to see someone post a video on this . I don't see anything wrong without this mod.
It's really difficult to shoot videos of the difference due to the frame rate of most video not being fast enough to capture the modulation properly. There has been some success using high speed photography (like from a modern iPhone or 4k camera) and then playing it back in slow motion.
The best way to describe the difference is in two buckets:
1st bucket is related to the "flicker" effect and over-brightness that many people can see (or have become used to) with LEDs. Once you see a LED behave like an incandescent, it is more pleasing to the eyes and can be dimmed to be more aligned with original design.
2nd bucket is related to design intent. The designers of the machine had a number of "dimming effects" that happen both in attract and play modes. You can test this by going into test mode, selecting the GI lamp test and cycling through the dimming levels. 1 to 8 should go up evenly from level to level, and no levels should flicker at all. Once the game is running, the lights (with dimming effects on) in the GI should "fade" from 0 to 8 perfectly and softly without flicker or stepping to aggressively. With LED OCD, the insert LEDs mostly need to be adjusted so that the lower brightness levels (1, 2, 3, etc) don't flicker. Sometimes that means turning up the brightness a bit and some is fixed with the modulation of the mod boards. When you install LED OCD, the first thing you notice out of the box is the flicker going away and the lights fading in and out smoothly as the insert LEDs cycle.
On some games, like TOTAN and TOM, certain game modes (multiball, etc.) the designers intended for the lights to turn off, or fade in and out, dramatically. Without incandescents or the mod boards, you lose those effects entirely, and the lights are either on, or off, or worse (with dimming effects enabled) - flickering.
My TOTAN has a pretty good playfield that is not in need of replacement. However, the surface is a little dull and Ive tried all sorts of polishing including the Treasure Cove kit. Still looks dull. Also a few of the inserts have some chips.
Has anyone tried those thin plastic playfield protectors that you lay over the original playfield? They seem to make it almost look like a thick clearcoat. I think their web site is something like www.playfield-protectors.com and they're in Germany. Seems like a reasonable option vs doing a playfield restoration or swap.
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