I had the same problem and eventually the switch was not recognizing the locked balls. I think they are regular switches and come off the plate that house all 3 switches. They come off the switch plate. I believe it was 67,68, and 69

Flaky switch - replace it and be done with it.

LTG : )

Regular micro mini switch, get a new one, get wires in same spots, diode facing the same direction, swap the arm that trips the switch from the old body to the new body.

LTG : )

I have the same issue on mine and that switch will then test fine too. I just chalk it up to a switch that is very rarely hit when playing to game and then the system eventually believes its broken as it hasn't registered that switch in X number of games.

Switches that test fine and fail in game play, have flux or gunk inside them. Which slows them down and the game doesn't see them in play.

LTG : )

call the pinball resource Steve Young, Give him the part number associated with the switch. He may yell at you but do not take it personally. he is extremely knowledgable

Nothing to forgive, everyone starts somewhere.

Buy a new diode for sure, get the silver band end in the same direction, green and white wires in the same spots. Diode on your switch will be a 1N4001, I use a 1N4004 or 1N4007 - these work fine too, also on coils.

Get a new switch, any one with an arm that snaps off. Start with the new one. See the nubs where the arm snaps on ? Slowly, carefully, gently stick a small thin thing between the side of the switch and the part of the arm with the hole that snaps onto the lugs. A jewelers screw driver, thin blade of a strong knife ( and bandages for when you slip ) a little twist and the arm pops off.

Do the same thing with the old switch, now you have practice so you won't hurt the arm. snap it off. Take it over to the new switch, get it facing the right direction, gently snap it onto the nubs. When it's on, push it a couple times to be sure it works smoothly.

Not much to it. You'll figure it out and learn a little more about your game.

LTG : )

Email me. Pinwiki http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page , parts list in your manual. etc. etc.

For your newer DMD pins, 1N4001 for switches. 1N4004 or 1N4007 for coils.

You can use 1N4004 or 1N4007 on switches too. 1N4001 is too low a voltage for coils.

I use 1N4004 or 1N4007, that way there is no chance of getting a 1N4001 in the mix and on a coil.

LTG : )

That is definitely weird rennervision. I have never seen this issue but I constatly get the "magnet broken" error on my TOTAN but the damn thing is just fine. I have been told quite a few times its poor code. Good luck. Is it possible that the orientation of the switch was not correct when the switch was installed previously?

I had that same magnet error on my totan too and also switch errors .[not registering and fine in test etc etc]........I found that some of my targets were wired wrong from the factory! Check the wiring to make sure it is correct to all the switches. My three red ones on the left side of the playfield were wired to the wrong side of the diode! All three! After I re soldered them to the right side of the diode it worked perfectly for probably the first time in the games whole life! Thought I would post this as you may have the same issue...Look at the other targets in the game and see that the green wires go to no diode and the white go to the NON banded side of the diode. Bet you have the left bank of three soldered wrong like I did. Must have been a rookie working on the games in the factory is my only explanation. Lets hope this 'find' fixes everyones games! It fixed mine.

well shit thanks for the tip, will check this out tomorrow during the football games. I just got done playing after commenting on how it had a broken magnet error constantly and it did it again...Grrrrr! Of course it locked balls perfectly....

your switch was out of adjustment [actually the switch is probably wearing out but you can adjust it for now]. Take the tape off and close the switch by hand and keep it activated by pinching your fingers and then bend the end up a little and try it then. It should actuate from above on the playing surface before it disappears in the playfield. That way it gets a full activation every time .
Try checking switches with a ball and you would have found this earlier. Your fingers depress the switch a little more than a ball would depending on there the ball is rolling
Congrats on your first fix!