(Topic ID: 280200)

Totally Radicals!

By trilogybeer

3 years ago


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  • 399 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by trilogybeer
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

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There are 399 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 8.
24
#1 3 years ago

I'm going to be restoring 2 Radicals (one for me, one for a friend). These are going to be my winter projects so they are going to take many months to complete and I am just getting started on them. One game has a good playfield but rough cabinet, the other has a rough playfield but decent cabinet. I'm going to try and make two really nice games out of these. Follow along if you'd like.
Cheers
Doug

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#2 3 years ago

I'm going to be starting with the better playfield.

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#3 3 years ago

This playfield looks to be in decent shape and was recently shopped. It does not have the correct flipper bats though ( I will replace with correct flipper bats)

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#4 3 years ago

Getting this playfield stripped.

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#5 3 years ago

Removing the wire harness was fairly easy, only a few things needed to be un-soldered ( the kicker that puts the ball in the shooter lane, the kick back and the lamp socket leads for the pop bumpers.)
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#6 3 years ago

Doug is a machine!

#7 3 years ago

Subscribed!!! Quick question you said you were going to replace flipper bats with the correct ones??? Are those lightning flippers???

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Subscribed!!! Quick question you said you were going to replace flipper bats with the correct ones??? Are those lightning flippers???

They all should be the carrot flipper bats. This game did have the correct ones on the upper flippers but the two main flippers were not correct. I will be replacing them all with new bats.

#9 3 years ago

This plastic easy pry tool can be helpful for removing the wire forms.

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#10 3 years ago

Everything removed from the first playfield.

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#11 3 years ago

I’m always impressed anyone can find one project let alone two of a somewhat hard to find game. My day will come...

#12 3 years ago

I’m not doing anymore crazy projects-Doug(2014, 15’, 16’,17’,18’,19’ and 2020)

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

I’m not doing anymore crazy projects-Doug(2014, 15’, 16’,17’,18’,19’ and 2020)

.

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#14 3 years ago

IF they were true friends, Doug, they would just let you ride off into the sunset.

#15 3 years ago

I look forward to updates on this thread with zeal. Love your work and really looking forward to how you make this truly deserving game shine.

So many things will be learned in this process that is going to be helpful to so many Radical owners.

#16 3 years ago

Starting to get the first cabinet stripped. Here is some before pictures.

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#17 3 years ago

Some holes were drilled through the cabinet.

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#18 3 years ago

Other damage to this cabinet.

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#19 3 years ago

The speaker grill has got a little damage as well.

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#20 3 years ago

Get that bread! This is lit fam

#21 3 years ago

The Bally emblem still has the protective plastic on it.

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#22 3 years ago

Cabinet is mostly stripped, just need to remove ground braid and side rails.

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#23 3 years ago

This back box hinge got tweaked from something.

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#24 3 years ago

One of the carriage bolts from that hinge was bent as well.

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#25 3 years ago

Sometimes it is crazy just how extensive and deep the presumed subtle abuse to these machines live through runs. Is your your plan for the cabinet art to use the panels from our Russian friend? Or are you doing some other kind of magic?

#26 3 years ago

Yes, my plan for this one is to repair the damage to the cabinet and replace the decals.

#27 3 years ago

Mylar is removed from this playfield. I had my friend Justin remove this Mylar because he has more experience with Mylar removal than I do. Any damage caused by Mylar removal means more touch up work for me. Justin did a great job, he uses dry ice to remove the Mylar.

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#28 3 years ago

How much art-work was removed?

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

How much art-work was removed?

Just some lettering from the center insert and part of the”2” near “go for the snake” . Only artwork from the inserts came off, nothing from the playfield that was printed on the wood. I still have some glue residue to remove but Justin did an awesome job removing the Mylar.

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#30 3 years ago

That really is great work! Matching decals are one of the sure things available so no biggy if 2 decals were damaged.

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Just some lettering from the center insert and part of the”2” near “go for the snake” . Only artwork from the inserts came off, nothing from the playfield that was printed on the wood. I still have some glue residue to remove but Justin did an awesome job removing the Mylar.
[quoted image][quoted image]

While it is dissasembled , could you measure the ball-gate for me?

#32 3 years ago

LOVE this Doug. Definitely subscribing.
--Scott

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

While it is dissasembled , could you measure the ball-gate for me?

Yes, I will have some time this weekend to work on these. I will take measurements

#34 3 years ago

Looking forward to watching this one! Always thought this game was totally bitchin'

#35 3 years ago

Would like to.know more about the "dry ice" please.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

While it is dissasembled , could you measure the ball-gate for me?

Which ball gate did you need me to measure? I can do that tonight, but the game has several and I want to make sure I measure the correct one for you.

#37 3 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Would like to.know more about the "dry ice" please.

My friend gets the dry ice from an ice cream shop near his house( I think he pays about $2 a pound ) . I have never used it but he told me that you rub the dry ice on the mylar and it will separate from the glue. Do a small section at a time and never pull hard on the mylar (it should pull off very easy ). Of course you must use caution when handling the dry ice. The glue residue will remain on the playfield and need to be removed. I use 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner to remove the glue.

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#38 3 years ago

Always test an area to make sure it won't damage the playfield. Once I am sure I am not going to damage the playfield I saturate the glue with that cleaner and let it sit a little while and then scrape glue with a filler spreader. The cleaner will need to be re applied several times and the final removal of the residue that is left is done with a rag.

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#39 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Which ball gate did you need me to measure? I can do that tonight, but the game has several and I want to make sure I measure the correct one for you.

Its the one in the right in-lane that I need.
Thanks.

#40 3 years ago

Here is some measurements in cm/mm. I hope these pictures help if you need something more specific let me know.

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#41 3 years ago

And a few more.

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#42 3 years ago

I did some minor repairs to the wood playfield rails.

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#43 3 years ago

And painted them.

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#44 3 years ago

The lamp board from the backbox is going to get a refresh.

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#45 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

My friend gets the dry ice from an ice cream shop near his house( I think he pays about $2 a pound ) . I have never used it but he told me that you rub the dry ice on the mylar and it will separate from the glue. Do a small section at a time and never pull hard on the mylar (it should pull off very easy ). Of course you must use caution when handling the dry ice. The glue residue will remain on the playfield and need to be removed. I use 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner to remove the glue.
[quoted image]

Ive been using the rapid-tac adhesive remover for the mylar glue.

It works in seconds and cleans off nicely with a little naptha, no issues with clearcoat afterwards. Though I do use rapid-prep before painting for adhesion promotion.

I will never go back to the other methods now, the rapid-tac adhesive remover has spoiled me.

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

This back box hinge got tweaked from something.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The game fell on its side

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ive been using the rapid-tac adhesive remover for the mylar glue.
It works in seconds and cleans off nicely with a little naptha, no issues with clearcoat afterwards. Though I do use rapid-prep before painting for adhesion promotion.
I will never go back to the other methods now, the rapid-tac adhesive remover has spoiled me.

Link?

#49 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

And a few more.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. Just what I needed

#50 3 years ago

Tumbled the hex spacers/posts and put them back on the wood rails.

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