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(Topic ID: 280200)

Totally Radicals!


By trilogybeer

37 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 66 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by bangerjay
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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There are 66 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
20
#1 37 days ago

I'm going to be restoring 2 Radicals (one for me, one for a friend). These are going to be my winter projects so they are going to take many months to complete and I am just getting started on them. One game has a good playfield but rough cabinet, the other has a rough playfield but decent cabinet. I'm going to try and make two really nice games out of these. Follow along if you'd like.
Cheers
Doug

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#2 37 days ago

I'm going to be starting with the better playfield.

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#3 37 days ago

This playfield looks to be in decent shape and was recently shopped. It does not have the correct flipper bats though ( I will replace with correct flipper bats)

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#4 37 days ago

Getting this playfield stripped.

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#5 37 days ago

Removing the wire harness was fairly easy, only a few things needed to be un-soldered ( the kicker that puts the ball in the shooter lane, the kick back and the lamp socket leads for the pop bumpers.)
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#6 37 days ago

Doug is a machine!

#7 37 days ago

Subscribed!!! Quick question you said you were going to replace flipper bats with the correct ones??? Are those lightning flippers???

#8 37 days ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Subscribed!!! Quick question you said you were going to replace flipper bats with the correct ones??? Are those lightning flippers???

They all should be the carrot flipper bats. This game did have the correct ones on the upper flippers but the two main flippers were not correct. I will be replacing them all with new bats.

#9 36 days ago

This plastic easy pry tool can be helpful for removing the wire forms.

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#10 36 days ago

Everything removed from the first playfield.

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#11 36 days ago

I’m always impressed anyone can find one project let alone two of a somewhat hard to find game. My day will come...

#12 36 days ago

I’m not doing anymore crazy projects-Doug(2014, 15’, 16’,17’,18’,19’ and 2020)

#13 36 days ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

I’m not doing anymore crazy projects-Doug(2014, 15’, 16’,17’,18’,19’ and 2020)

.

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#14 36 days ago

IF they were true friends, Doug, they would just let you ride off into the sunset.

#15 34 days ago

I look forward to updates on this thread with zeal. Love your work and really looking forward to how you make this truly deserving game shine.

So many things will be learned in this process that is going to be helpful to so many Radical owners.

#16 33 days ago

Starting to get the first cabinet stripped. Here is some before pictures.

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#17 33 days ago

Some holes were drilled through the cabinet.

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#18 33 days ago

Other damage to this cabinet.

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#19 33 days ago

The speaker grill has got a little damage as well.

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#20 33 days ago

Get that bread! This is lit fam

#21 33 days ago

The Bally emblem still has the protective plastic on it.

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#22 33 days ago

Cabinet is mostly stripped, just need to remove ground braid and side rails.

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#23 33 days ago

This back box hinge got tweaked from something.

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#24 33 days ago

One of the carriage bolts from that hinge was bent as well.

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#25 33 days ago

Sometimes it is crazy just how extensive and deep the presumed subtle abuse to these machines live through runs. Is your your plan for the cabinet art to use the panels from our Russian friend? Or are you doing some other kind of magic?

#26 33 days ago

Yes, my plan for this one is to repair the damage to the cabinet and replace the decals.

#27 27 days ago

Mylar is removed from this playfield. I had my friend Justin remove this Mylar because he has more experience with Mylar removal than I do. Any damage caused by Mylar removal means more touch up work for me. Justin did a great job, he uses dry ice to remove the Mylar.

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#28 26 days ago

How much art-work was removed?

#29 26 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

How much art-work was removed?

Just some lettering from the center insert and part of the”2” near “go for the snake” . Only artwork from the inserts came off, nothing from the playfield that was printed on the wood. I still have some glue residue to remove but Justin did an awesome job removing the Mylar.

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#30 26 days ago

That really is great work! Matching decals are one of the sure things available so no biggy if 2 decals were damaged.

#31 25 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Just some lettering from the center insert and part of the”2” near “go for the snake” . Only artwork from the inserts came off, nothing from the playfield that was printed on the wood. I still have some glue residue to remove but Justin did an awesome job removing the Mylar.
[quoted image][quoted image]

While it is dissasembled , could you measure the ball-gate for me?

#32 25 days ago

LOVE this Doug. Definitely subscribing.
--Scott

#33 24 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

While it is dissasembled , could you measure the ball-gate for me?

Yes, I will have some time this weekend to work on these. I will take measurements

#34 24 days ago

Looking forward to watching this one! Always thought this game was totally bitchin'

#35 19 days ago

Would like to.know more about the "dry ice" please.

#36 19 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

While it is dissasembled , could you measure the ball-gate for me?

Which ball gate did you need me to measure? I can do that tonight, but the game has several and I want to make sure I measure the correct one for you.

#37 19 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Would like to.know more about the "dry ice" please.

My friend gets the dry ice from an ice cream shop near his house( I think he pays about $2 a pound ) . I have never used it but he told me that you rub the dry ice on the mylar and it will separate from the glue. Do a small section at a time and never pull hard on the mylar (it should pull off very easy ). Of course you must use caution when handling the dry ice. The glue residue will remain on the playfield and need to be removed. I use 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner to remove the glue.

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#38 19 days ago

Always test an area to make sure it won't damage the playfield. Once I am sure I am not going to damage the playfield I saturate the glue with that cleaner and let it sit a little while and then scrape glue with a filler spreader. The cleaner will need to be re applied several times and the final removal of the residue that is left is done with a rag.

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#39 19 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Which ball gate did you need me to measure? I can do that tonight, but the game has several and I want to make sure I measure the correct one for you.

Its the one in the right in-lane that I need.
Thanks.

#40 18 days ago

Here is some measurements in cm/mm. I hope these pictures help if you need something more specific let me know.

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#41 18 days ago

And a few more.

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#42 18 days ago

I did some minor repairs to the wood playfield rails.

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#43 18 days ago

And painted them.

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#44 18 days ago

The lamp board from the backbox is going to get a refresh.

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#45 18 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

My friend gets the dry ice from an ice cream shop near his house( I think he pays about $2 a pound ) . I have never used it but he told me that you rub the dry ice on the mylar and it will separate from the glue. Do a small section at a time and never pull hard on the mylar (it should pull off very easy ). Of course you must use caution when handling the dry ice. The glue residue will remain on the playfield and need to be removed. I use 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner to remove the glue.
[quoted image]

Ive been using the rapid-tac adhesive remover for the mylar glue.

It works in seconds and cleans off nicely with a little naptha, no issues with clearcoat afterwards. Though I do use rapid-prep before painting for adhesion promotion.

I will never go back to the other methods now, the rapid-tac adhesive remover has spoiled me.

#46 18 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

This back box hinge got tweaked from something.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The game fell on its side

#47 18 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ive been using the rapid-tac adhesive remover for the mylar glue.
It works in seconds and cleans off nicely with a little naptha, no issues with clearcoat afterwards. Though I do use rapid-prep before painting for adhesion promotion.
I will never go back to the other methods now, the rapid-tac adhesive remover has spoiled me.

Link?

#49 17 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

And a few more.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. Just what I needed

#50 14 days ago

Tumbled the hex spacers/posts and put them back on the wood rails.

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There are 66 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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