Ach du lieber! I don't think I've ever seen an "Ice-Revue" playfield in such bad shape, especially the deep gouges in the artwork. I admire your tenacity, but I think getting a better playfield would have been much easier. There's a lot of these games out there; some are only parts worthy, with decent playfields. I got one cheap at Pinfest a couple of years back. It's dirty, but not really worn like yours is.

Good luck Mark. You seem very determined!

An "Ice-Revue" whitewood!

It's such a colorful game though.
Maybe you can find a better playfield that wouldn't be such a daunting restoration task.

Since you're starting over, I'd go a little deeper and a bit more greenish on the aqua color. It looked a bit too light on your first attempt, and too blue IMHO.

True, if you have no reference. But you should be able to paint a swatch on a piece of card stock, place it next to the original, observe the contrast, and adjust as needed. In the case of this game, I'd match it to the aqua on the backglass, since all of the original playfield paint is gone. Acrylic paint dries darker than when wet, so that's something to keep in mind.

Damn. I'd love to have that original cabinet. Aside from the face on the backbox, it's not bad. I prefer leaving a decent original original! I have one that's much more of a repaint candidate than yours. They're only original once!

Absolutely!

Arrrgh!

Totally unnecessary to unsolder all the wires on the stepper contact disc. Two screws, and it's off.

The bell mounting is slotted. You can adjust the position of the bell. Leave a small gap between the clapper and the bell. Momentum will allow the clapper to strike the bell under power.

You seem to be a glutton for punishment. Why do you unsolder coils and switches which are easily removable by removing a few screws! Same with the wiper disc on the 0-9 unit. Two screws, and it separates from the mechanical part of the unit.
You're definitely going to set the record for the longest and most tedious restoration of all time.
Trying not to be hyper-critical, but it actually hurts to follow this thread!
I truly admire your tenacity, however, and you're no doubt learning a great deal from this experience.

Try soaking these parts in CLR for about 1/2 hour, then follow up with hot water and a soap pad.
After they're dry, a little Mother's Polish, had they look like new.
Works for me.

Hex heads?

Oh, OK. I've heard of replacing the slotted screws with Phillips head screws, but this is a first.
Quarter inch head size?

Yes. Each skater illuminates with flashing lamps at "game over". During gameplay however, they light in pairs, only after the 1-6 target sequence is completed. The pairs illuminate corresponding to the lights at the kickout holes in the center of the playfield. These lamps are separate from the flashers at "game over", and should be 44s or 47s.

The ones at "game over" should be flashers. I believe there are two flashers for each skater.

Missing or damaged nylon coil stop washers are usually what causes the pop bumpers to stick down. Each pop bumper coil stop needs to have an insulating nylon washer, and a nut with a nylon insert. The washer should have a flange which extends into the hole in the bracket, so that the stop's threaded part is also magnetically insulated. This part needs to be in good condition.

I would have gone with the red/blue paint scheme on the card tray. Although "Ice-Revue" came with either one, I think the red/blue looks a lot better on the game. I believe that the green/blue trays were leftovers from the "Bank A Ball" production run.

Yeah, to me, it doesn't fit the color scheme of the game. Mine has the red/blue. Green/blue complements "Bank A Ball", but it doesn't look good on "Ice-Revue".
Just my humble opinion.

Your flippers appear to be set a bit too low as far as I can see in the photos. They're probably directing the ball toward the outlanes more than they should.
Here's what mine look like.

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