Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider turbo2nr.
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Using special code Scott Danesi made for me to run an twin Air Siren.
The Siren is controllable to activate at whatever reactor you choose in the software.
This is reactor 9, obviously.
Game triggers a relay I added that then turns On an Industrial On/Off timer to control the spool-up/down of the Siren.
Quoted from trilogybeer:Also do NOT try to make custom sound for TNA. It is perfect as is.
"Bento Box", by Scott Danesi works well in this game.
Want to hear something funny?
Besides what I recorded, there are other Primus songs, Metallica. Call outs taken from Sterns Metallica and Primus. Lots of other audio changes too!
5-channel home theater amp added.
rear speakers added
OEM head speakers still running, but powered now from the theater amp.
I have an identical setup in another room for my BKSOR LE.
Quoted from Morinack:That is hysterical. I would totally end up divorced.
It is very rare we hear the siren.
You have to reach the last stage of reactor 9.
Only a couple people have ever done it.
But, yeah the sound/music is LOUD
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Is this a veiled answer?
Are you insinuating that *no* plastic on this game is in fact vulnerable enough to warrant a protector? Not the slings? Not the flipper lanes? I s'pose I will put between 400 and 700 plays on this game - unless it's way too hard for me.
You won't break any plastics. Pinball Life would cut a set of clear protectors for ya.
Quoted from 27dnast:So, is adding a siren an option everyone has access to? Or was that just a one-off scenario?
You would need a 12V relay that activates a timer, and the timer of course.
The timer controls the Air Raid Siren On/Off and to set the duration of each spool-up/down times.
I used this One...
https://www.automation24.com/cyclic-timer-relay-selec-55xc-p8-cu?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9MD0lKj_8wIVCaCzCh1EDgQjEAQYASABEgJo0vD_BwE
The modified game code uses the backbox light power circuit to control the 12V relay I added.
In Settings, you choose to use the new backbox light control feature to energize at a specific reactor.
I now use an alternate 12V power source for my actual backbox lights.
Get the code from Danesi site....get 12V relay, timer, siren. Enjoy!
I will probably add a fog machine too in the near future.
Scott Hudson
Code ver 1.4.1 is for this feature....
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=4056
I offered/paid Danesi some cash to make this for me, thinking nobody else would do it.
I do recommend it though for any TNA lover out there!
Once again, THANKS SCOTT!!
I use pinstadiums on my tna
Quoted from THEFOZ:I had some audio issues with the single audio input to the amplifier, so got a 3.5mm to 2 RCA adapter and it fixed the issue. Then I was thinking I should split that 3.5 mm signal and run it to an external sub also. That seemed to work, so then I was thinking I should unplug the line running to the sub and just extend it another 15' to my surround receiver - that would have the entire basement bumping. But the problem is there's a significant delay in the music to the surround and it's also pretty quiet. Is this just signal loss in the longer run? Does this also explain the delay?
Not a big deal but I'm just wondering if someone with some more audio knowledge has some info. Thanks
Works fine for me using my home theatre amp.
Posted a video the page before this.
Quoted from Medic:Thank you for sharing. I would like to do the siren mod and not necessarily the surround speakers but I have a few questions and I’m a little intimidated by it. First of all the custom code is for version 1.41 and the latest code is 1.42. So you think Scott will eventually update the custom code to 1.42? Do you need an amp to do the siren mod or you just added the home amp for the surround speakers? The timer that you mentioned has pointy connections behind it(I’m noob in electronics) and what type of wire would I need to connect them and to which pointy connector would the wire go to? The relay has 4 wires connected to it and I’m not sure where exactly they are coming from. I’m assuming one is from the timer, the other 2 is from the back lights, and 2 from the siren? You said the back lights power up the siren so I need to add extra lights to back box since the current one might be turned off? Thanks [quoted image]
I guess a video would help.
I'll try to make One.
Quoted from THEFOZ:I did see that video, I think the difference is you run the audio directly to your receiver - mine is split and then run to the spooky amp and the receiver. My speakers /receiver are not in the same area as the game (20 feet away instead of 2 feet like yours). I'll give going directly to the receiver a shot, but even if it works would be weird without going back to the game for the cabinet speakers.
I use the oem speakers in the head of TNA as main speakers.
I do NOT use that tiny crappy amp that is in the game.
So I do not have weird delay issues using Two different amps.
TNA 2.0 should be a mirror-image of playfield TheNoTrashCougar
Locks on LEFT, scoop on Right. Just for something different.
Just mirror the playfield.
Scott Hudson
20220422_140632[1] (resized).jpgQuoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Check this out everyone! The new Bel-Air show used a TNA in the background of the show! It also looks like a Black Knight Swords of Rage with an alternate translite was used as well.
[quoted image]
And, yes, they had permission to use the game. Also, it looks like they disabled all the flashy stuff from the game. To get the game in the state it is there, they would have had to disconnect the power to the score display assembly, cover the LCD and disconnect the serial cables to the playfield. That would allow the machine to still boot into all white LEDs and power up the backbox LEDs.
Awesome!
--Scott
Mine is in this state right now
Nothing on display, White lights on playfield, and nothing on score displays.
I need help please. I created a new thread with same question.
Game will not boot. ??
Scott Hudson
Dead CMOS battery
Needs a new 2032 Lithium button cell.
Mine measures 2.8V, which = dead
New they are around 3.3V
Quoted from zermeno68:Mirror blades on this game would look cool.
I’d buy a set if possible.
You can hardly see them. Not much cabinet side-wall between the plastics and glass.
But I have them installed mainly to help hold up the pinstadium lights.
I usually install mirrors and pinstadium on most all my games.
Quoted from Medic:Saw a post of Stern mirror blades fitting a Rick and Morty cabinet. Is tna the same dimensions as R&M? Curious if the blades will fit a TNA. I’m starting to lose hope that I won’t ever get mirrors for it lol
I have them on mine. Pinball Life made some and I'm sure they will make them again because Scott works there.
Just call and ask.
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:Got mine yesterday and finally set it up today. Everything seems to be working with only 1 issue, the dreaded shooter lane\ramp eject issue. I think mine is due to the fork entrance and those forks should be straight and pointed on the playfield but mine look like they are slightly bent up and the ball constantly hits it, I would say 4 out of 5 times it rejects or rattles. Overall I am happy I haven’t had any other issues and hope that trend continues and will be calling my buddy AJ tomorrow. From reading the threads, looks like I have the updated ramp (1st pic) as my screw holes are very close to the fork tips vs. original and earlier CE ones (2nd and 3rd pics). I took a slow mo video and you can clearly see it hits one of the forks every time, no matter how I adjust my playfield or shooter rod.
Will be posting this in the other TNA thread as well, just in case.
Appreciate any help if there is a simple fix….oh and just in case anyone’s interested
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/147945
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No way the ball hits the screws or the fork tips man.
You do realize the ball is round, right?
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:Yeah it happens, that’s pinball I guess. I might be able to, but before I mess up anything, I’ll see what Spooky tech support recommends.
Uh ok, I took a video and as soon as it gets to the tips, it immediately rattles against the sides and does it whether I manually plunge or auto plunge. You can see the tips are bent up vs. the other peoples pics.
Thanks for the help.
The ball does NOT hit the tips of that. 100%
Go roll the ball with your hand or take a pic then dude. You'll see.
I've owned a TNA for many years. That ramp was designed NOT to touch the ball until ball is inside the "V".
Quoted from pinthewin:Following this as I'm having the same issue. The new ramp design screws are too close to the end of the fork. The original design screw placement was better but the ramp wouldn't stay put near the orbit.
Any static from your speakers while in attract mode?
So what? Go take a pic of a ball touching the screws or the tip of fork.
You will see the ball does NOT touch them. Post a pic
Is your plunger tip aligned with the center of the ball I wonder?
Loosen the shooter housing and move it to center the tip of plunger rod to the ball.
I don't understand how your ball is ending up hugging the left side of the shooter lane! ??
Quoted from pinthewin:The ball does not touch them on YOUR machine. They changed the ramp design on the CE for early builds from the original, and have since changed it again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I bet the shooter rod alignment is to blame and not the ramp at all.
You game looks fine to me. Just adjust the shooter housing and I bet it will flow like melted butter right up the ramp.
I do that for all my games. Just part of the tuning process.
Quoted from scottieIA:Great pictures on what is happening. You think if I designed and printed side rails to narrow the shooter lane would make the ball hit the ramp better? My ball does get wacky sometimes and maybe this is the issue. I just dealt with it but if it could be fixed, I'd try it.
No, He is missing the main picture of the shooter rod tip-to-ball alignment. Which is #1 reason balls go flying side-to-side and not going straight up the shooter lane. I can make my game do that too by shifting the shooter rod "off-center". All games can shoot wrong if this isn't "on-center"
Obviously, your issue is the shooter rod position in relation to the ball. Not the ramp or screws or ??
See pic.
So, loosen the shooter housing and then lower playfield back down.
Open coindoor and use hand inside cabinet to move shooter housing to center on the ball.
Keep in mind the playfield can shift side-to-side on the Two hangers that rest on the lockbar receiver.
For some of my games, I add something to push or hold those hangers in a tight position left or right.
I just drop in a screw on One side or the other to fill space, forcing the playfield to stay in a certain position.
Scotty
I have a Taxi that I added screws next to the playfield hangers to keep my playfield-to-shooter rod alignment on-center.
I had already maxed out the travel limit of the shooter housing to One side, but the playfield would drift around left-to-right on the hangers over time and screw up the alignment, making it impossible to get a skill shot.
I didn't like the playfield moving left/right on this game. lol Games with auto launch mech, not an issue for that. Only manual plunger.
So those Two things are adjustable for a clean, straight "plunge" up your ramp.
If those both are aligned on center and you still have issues, THEN you can blame something else.
Scotty
20221214_160721[1] (resized).jpg20221214_160730[1] (resized).jpg
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Quoted from Medic:So I have been having LOUD squealing sound from the lighted side rails for a while. I tried one technique with the hot glue over the coil in the little black box but that didn’t really help. So I noticed that the rails were touching the ground wires on both sides and it would squeal loud when they were touching. So I put electrical tape between them and the squeal is down 90%. So this helped me get rid of the frustration that I was having. I still hear a slight squeal and I’m wondering if I should be using a different tape other than electrical to prevent further interference?
Edit*. I spoke too soon. As soon as the lock bar was placed the noise came back and now I’m getting a little shock. So plan didn’t work
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Mine lasted maybe 100hrs then were so dim you couldn't see.
I'll never buy those again
Quoted from insight75:Out of all the spooky machines where I upgraded the LCD screen, this machine by far looks the best after installing. Wow. I recommend the upgraded screen on this one.
What are you looking at on the screen that needs improvement?
Not much going on.
Also, I like the look of the old washed-out graphics with added "noise" and flaws on purpose.
It is to look post-apocalyptic on purpose and not perfect High-res. Can't you tell that?
This title does not need the LCD screen changed. You're nutz man.
premium "Dollar Store" connectors crimped by highly skilled techs (sarcasm implied)
seen so many people posting stuff like this for Halloween, my ACNC built last year, Ultraman, and TNA.
I am a triple victim myself.
Really unacceptable for any product to have such poor quality control and cheap parts used.
Especially since this is no longer a new company. #1 worst manufacture on the planet for pins.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:is it your only game? is so i wouldn't do it. tna is a total ass kicker with short ball times, wouldn't be a good stand alone pin. not to mention, a tna is 9k nib, bksor with topper is selling for 10-11k
Play better. I always have long ball times and have beat the game.
Have you seen any streaming for this game? Nobody says short ball times.
hearing the pulse width of the power in the coil.
That's all.
It is not constant power, but a pulse. (bzzzzzzz)
Quoted from chuckwurt:Should’ve done a bit more research. Stern is really the only company that is fit for a first time pin owner. And even they need work out of the box sometimes.
Pinball ownership is a whole different ball game.
But the timing of these issues is extremely unfortunate for sure since everyone just has to wait for a couple weeks while their games are unplayable.
CGC, American Pinball, Stern, and JJP all are great choices for home use as a first time buyer. Great quality!
Spooky is just sh!t quality.
Quoted from pinthewin:Spooky machines are made with high-quality parts. It's the assembly, attention to detail, inspection and testing that's lacking.
CGC would be my pick as a first time buyer.
Wiring harness is not high quality. Plugs, connectors, etc. The pc is cheap vs what all other pin manufacturers are using. Lots of failures and unexplained issues with Halloween, Ultraman, and now TNA.
Quoted from maxpower:I asked Hooked On Pinball about this the other day, and they said that including my inquiry, they have interest from 13 people. They are still waiting for more interest, but the longer this drags out, they said, the less of a window of opportunity there is for getting these. So I'm putting this here in case the initial post was missed by anyone who might be interested, and to try to get enough interest for them to justify another run of the lighted side rail kits.
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p115/Total-Nuclear-Annihilation-TNA-Side-Rail-Illumination-Kit-Pinball-Mod.html#/
Max
Mine quickly lost power and got dimmer and dimmer until no more light. Always made a buzzing sound. Ended up removing and trashing them.
Quoted from OriginalFresh:I have an OG and this literally just happened to me. I was going to ask the same question. The game resets once the download bar is completed. It’s an endless cycle of resetting.
Push all ribbon cables into boards around the drops and basically everything under the playfield. Takes a minute but I bet that works
Scott said, "No" to that question already because the songs are telling a story (His words)
Changing order of the songs is now illegal in 38 states, and Scott is trying to make this a nation wide law.
I too wanted to mix up the order of the songs, but.....
No they don't use them.
PWM changes to simulate that switch.
Computer controller flippers
Power sent to flippers at full strength for a split second (Pulse Width controller), then PWM signal changes to reduce power same as a physical switch would do.
Quoted from Kolk1:17 or CE? I’ve never checked a ribbon cable once and it’s the game I play the most.
My OG TNA required constant lifting of the playfield to reseat those ribbon cables. It is a real issue 100% for many owners.
It's not the cables that lock but rather the plug side on the boards. Right?
The socket has the lock mech and not the actual cable.
So not exactly an easy fix
Quoted from Wilmmr:Thank you Scott I appreciate the advice. The sound I described are two of the drop targets going into the ball lock. They light up but do not come up. I pulled the playfield pushed them up from underneath, rebooted, they dropped then the machine went into the same loop. Maybe those first two coils aren’t energizing. Strange on the reboot loop though. I’ve emailed Spooky and my tech is coming out Saturday. I’ll get your beta code as well.
Flip up playfield and reseat all ribbon cables. I mean just press them into position firm and don't remove.
Then try again and I bet it works for a while until you have to repeat this process again. Ask me how I know! lol
Obviously check status of trough switches
Remove all ball
Load one by one and watch trough switch status
Quoted from Deadlander:Had a weird issue with my OG TNA at this weekends tournament. After several hours of play it started resetting. We opened the back box and the CPU was extremally hot to the point where we could not touch it. We decided to turn off the game and took it out of the tournament. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. I have a replacement CPU from spooky to install since we never were able to update the old CPU. Going to add some fans to the new one to make sure we don't have a reoccurring issue with prolonged tournament use. Thanks for your input.
Regards,
Al
Resetting maybe due to a ribbon cable getting loose under the playfield.
Lift playfield and press all connections.
I too had a funky OG PC.
My CMOS battery went dead, and we replaced it but after that I could never update the code! Required a new PC. Weird eh?
Quoted from FatPanda:There's not too much to this game. Lite the 3x3 grid, shoot the scoop, go to the upper playfield until critical, then hit the Destroy targets. Lots of cursing in-between
If you like 80s SS fast and brutal games, you'll love TNA. Also, external sub is a must. The built in sub is good but it rattles the glass and I can't recall if the CE has the sub box (I think it does).
The external sub doesn't rattle the glass and sounds cleaner overall.
Charging the lanes to save a ball is fun and takes some mental energy. Locking balls for multiball is a skill. Add-a-ball is fun. It's enough to keep you busy.
Quoted from j69:Any idea what size the current screw is so I can look for a longer one? M4?
Usually there are no M-anything screws in pins. It's all Imperial or Standard stuff man.
USA (Inches and not Metric)
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Warner Robins, GA