I am in ! Not sure what number I am , but I am sure that Scott Danesi is awesome!
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Quoted from rai:
can you say what percentage are ordering the butter cabinet?
When I picked up my Rob Zombie they had a rob zombie there done with a butter cabinet (maybe the one spooky posted pictures of? ) the colors were deeper and it really did look amazing ( I instantly noticed it among at least ten other Rob Zombies with the standard cabinet). It is an expensive upgrade , and I would bet the percentage opting for it will be small but that small percentage will have absolutely beautiful cabinet .
Quoted from Pinballlew:
I just figured that you would have no issues with cab wrinkles in the decals and if there was an issue with a scratch it would be pretty easy to fix it.
The way spooky decals cabinets is very nice . I believe TNA will also come with the metal cabinet protectors . But yeah if the buttered cabinet were to get a scratch it could be buffed out if not scratched through the clearcoat .
Quoted from konjurer:
I saw the butter cab on Rob Zombie recently and it does look amazing. You also have to consider that the butter cabinet can be scratched very, very easily. Is it worth $1000? Not for me.
The butter cabinet is clearcoated , it doesn't really scratch all that easily and minor scratches could be buffed out . The reason why spooky is suggesting customers with butter cabinets to either pick up in person or special shipping is simply because it is an expensive upgrade to the exterior of the game. If it were to be damaged in shipping it can't be fixed by sending a new decal to the customer . Scott had his butter cabinet at pinball life for the open house and took it to expo today . I'd say it's every bit as durable (if not more durable) than the the decaled cabinets .
Quoted from TigerLaw:
True, but he is doing the code and what not. He's the man behind this project. I just think it would be ideal for him to keep all attention on the in production game. He said on K's podcast that was what he planned to do.
Scott watches people play his game and if he sees something not quite right he takes notes in his head and goes home and fixes them . It is insane the amount if work he has put into this game . I mean game design , rules , sound , music, assembly of more than one game! He nearly did everything . He has had help along the way , but what he has done on his own in a short amount of time is truely amazing .
Quoted from RefugeNate:
Does anyone know how the shaker motor is supposed to work? Anyone played it with the shaker? Is it worth it or can you live without it?
It's pretty cool , the production sample at pinball life open house on friday the 13th had one . It seemed as though it is not just full on or full off but kind of uses more of the range of the shaker . The game has a great sound system and many will say a shaker isn't needed , but the shaker doesn't just accent the bass , it is doing it's own thing and I think if you are a fan of shakers in pinball you will like what it does for TNA .
Quoted from RustyLizard:
Got this yesterday for number 14:
We will starting to build your game in the next few weeks. Please verify the add ons you want.
plastic protectors, interior graphics
Also if you are having this shipped please send me your info so I can work on your final invoice.
Spooky Pinball LLC
Awesome!!! I bet we will see some unboxing pics really soon . Although I don't think mine will be put in a box ever , I told Charlie "don't bother puting mine in a box , I am just going to open it ."
Quoted from Pmaino:
thenotrashcougar Any thoughts around adding an option to randomize the Reactor music? I know im not the greatest player in the world and if I'm only getting to reactor 2 on average per game it might be cool to have the reactor music play randomly instead of hearing just the same two over and over.
What is everyone's thought on this?
It seems as though the music gets kind of more intense as you work your way through the reactors ,so the song for reactor 7 might not work as well for the first reactor .
Quoted from StylesBitchly:
It works in coil test in diagnostics, but is mainly for game play. I don't know exactly which events trigger it, but I would assume high scores and maybe free games.
If you don't get the knocker, it will give you a speech prompt for the awards, but no ugly "screech" sound like s Stern cabinet gives you.
It knocks when you get an extra ball during game play . You get an extra ball for making it to reactor #3 . It also knocks if you get the match at the end of the game .
Still have Bangerjay's on loan . Was really thinking I was going to top 2 million with this game , but not quite . Got to the 4th reactor but didn't destroy it .LIONMAN still has the grand champion score on the game here .
Quoted from bangerjay:
If I wasn’t so busy, I’d come get it back
Probably better that I still have it then, you need to get that thing done . This game is very addicting and would just be a diatraction for you .Although I was thinking of bringing it back down to you Saturday if we are going to get the vortex .
I'll most likely get a tape and the digital . I just need to find a crappy tape deck that will chew that thing up so I can take it apart , rewind the reels and put it back together .
I am number 54 , I will go over to spooky on Saturday and pick it up if that works for them. The next few days at work will suck because I'd rather be playing this game than working .
a couple stops before home . Lawrences pub in Benton . Played the games there also .
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:
Sounds like you hit all the major stops in southern Wisconsin. Lawrence's and the brewery. Yep... that's all of them!
Thanks again ... Lionman!
Well I missed a few good stops though. In Monroe is Mihas brewery, the oldest brewery in the midwest (though it's changed ownership and names a few times , once known as Huber brewing) and is the second oldest in the US . Just north of New Glarous is Wisconsin Brewing co Verona . And Had I made it up to Verona I might as well go to Madison and play some pinball at some of the nice locations there and check out the Breweries there also . If someone had a full day or 2 or 5 to spare they could make a real nice brewery/pinball trip for themselves .
I would assume it ignores the last digit for the match . meaning 30 on the match display would give a credit for games ending in 31, 32 ,33 ,etc. seems like this would be the easiest way to do it .
Finally took down Lionman's grand champion score . As you can now see my score I only destroyed 2 reactors , but I was maxing them out and destroying the reactors with multiballs. I had the 3rd reactor critical , 2 balls locked and I drained going for the multiball . Score could have been pretty awesome had I destroyed #3 during that multiball.
Yeah it's awesome this game can really kick your ass ,it makes small victories very satisfying (destroying reactors , extra ball for starting #3) Even though I only got 2 of the reactors it was still a very rewarding ,and intense game I had .
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:
Yeah, I am not starting a new game yet. I have ideas in my head, but right now, need to make TNA as perfect as it can be. I know that sounds like a cop out and corny thing to say, but I am really dedicated to making sure the people that put their trust in Spooky and myself are happy with their purchase.
And you need some time to rest and relax after TNA .
Quoted from luckycreature:
Okay. So I played the prototype last year at SFGE and have recently started saving to make this my first pinball machine. Always thought it would be funhouse but this wins.
I have some noob questions.
If i buy the mirrors there is no reason to buy the extra interior art offered by spooky correct?
Also If get the shaker, not sure i want it if it overpowers the gameplay but what is the knocker? What other games use one?
Again sorry for the noob questions just want to make sure I save and purchase everything i need.
And thanks for this thread. read every page over a couple days.
Yeah , no reason to get the interior art if you get the mirrors . The mirrors would cover it .
The knocker is a solenoid that has a plunger that hammers a striking plate mounted to the cabinet , so it makes a loud knocking noise when it fires . Tons of games have knockers they typically fire when you earn an extra ball or replay .
Quoted from brenna98:
No, I didn't know I was supposed to touch it. What are the amp settings?
It is supposed to come set up from spooky to sound the best . Something may have gotten bumped or moved . I did minor adjustments on my game's amp to make it sound better .Although I believe the amp was put in a position where it is harder to access on purpose , so people would not mess with the settings .
Quoted from Pinballlew:
I heard that possibly the first song has changed a bit? The beep is supposedly different and quieter. Maybe Scott can confirm?
Yeah the beap is less pronounced now (which is what brenna98 might be noticing ) but I thought overall the music sounds cleaner .
Quoted from VolunteerPin:
Feel like #105 is taking forever. I know I’m getting closer and looking forward to “the call”. I’m basically going to order every add on and have them installed.
Seriously considering putting mine on route but really want it at home too. Oh, what to do?!
Buy 2 , route one and keep one at home .
Quoted from RefugeNate:
I’m trying to update the code and I’m not sure what I am supposed to see? I inserted the usb with the .pkg file and the screen said “updating” and 5 seconds later it said “complete”, remove the usb and power cycle. I did and when it started to boot it kept resetting and now the screen is blank and the numeric displays are cycling left to right. It’s been doing this for 15 minutes. Is it updating correctly? How long should it take?
It should take around 10 minutes to update
after the update and power cycle the game should start up normal , less than a minute .
Quoted from RefugeNate:
Cool thanks trilogybeer I got it working. But now I have the balls ejecting during attract mode. Everything was working fine before the update.....
Sounds like the game is searching for a ball it cannot recognize . switch sensitivity settings might have changed with the new code and now one is just a bit off . I'd test the switches to make sure they functioning as they should .Just a guess on my part though , I am sure someone here will be able to help you resolve the issue you are having .
My personal best .Started reactor 5 got it about halfway to critical . Learned a few helpful tactics watching Bowen play it in Texas .
My TNA was at MGC all weekend and did very well . Scott updated the code to the latest version he is working on Saturday morning and 472 plays were put on it after that . The game was also used for the clock choas tourny friday night and was told that around 150 games were played on it on the current code that is available . Total games played on it at MGC is in the ballpark of 630 .
Quoted from KingPinGames:
i have one if this is "at some point."
Not yet , I just sold it 3 days ago . But anyone in the market for a TNA should consider contacting KingPinGames . Anyone in the market for Spooky , JJP , CGC , American Pinball games should really consider contacting KingPinGames . He is one of the awesome people in this hobby .
Quoted from Ilushka85:
Why not sell your tna at a profit and get back in line. The profit would let you get a good way into another pin.
You ask "why not ?" I ask " why " . And I know you gave an answer to this but sorry mine is not not sale . Anyone looking for aTNA should contact Spooky or one of their great distributors. Yeah you'll have to wait but why pay more for a game that Spooky will make as many as the demand requires them to . I understand the urge to own the game right away ( this game is very addictive , that's why I keep hitting the start button ) But I seriously suggest just getting in line , the game is not getting worse as time go by ( In fact the opposite it just keeps getting better ) The wait can be tough be tough but at the end of the wait you'll still be getting the same great game (maybe better if Scott keeps putting out killer updates for this already awesome game. )
Quoted from Ilushka85:
The problem with getting on the list is this. Getting on it today puts you in fall. You pay 1000 bucks today and then because of the way the world works one shows up for sale tomorrow and now you are in a great dilemma. Lose the 1000 or wait even though there’s one available
I believe the ones that have sold have been for around $1,000 on top of retail price . Either way you'll lose that $1,000 if you don''t want to wait . My suggestion remains to get in line with Spooky or one of their trusted distributors , again this game will be just as good 8 months from now or later .
Quoted from PunkPin:
Question for anyone who has installed the lighted side rails. Are the plastic channels inside the rail stapled to the cabinet? Mine are sticking out a bit too far and cannot for the life of me get them to push in any further
Most likely stapled , but they also fit into a groove , they will not move .
Quoted from bitpatrol:
I was thinking more as a fun 'brainstorm' idea that may be possible for some pin to do in the future... having more than 1 pin at a location could maybe attract more players than not having them networked and interact as nodes, like the car driving/racing cabinets do. Possible in that regard.
The p3 has a versus game that uses 2 machines . It is a ton of fun if you hit a red shot on your game it traps it and releases a ball on the other player's game . It is really cool the way they did it , it seems as though you physically sent them your ball and vice versa .
Quoted from riggy469:
Anyone else having a problem with the sling arms getting stuck sometimes in the forward position? It’s NOT the coil locking on, just the arm isn’t pivoting that smoothly and gets stuck, especially if the ball hits the rubber as such to push the arm slightly to the side as it moves. This behavior has occurred on three different slings. Tried adjusting the coil angle slightly to allow for smoother movement and it helped to a point. Just set the game up tonight and I’m in love with it, only wondering if others have had this issue.
Make sure the 2 screws that hold the coil are tight and that the bracket that those 2 screws hold is not crooked . Seems like you've got something loose and it is binding .
Quoted from riggy469:
Yeah, we tried loosening them a tad, shifting the coil slightly to allow for smoother movement through the coil, and then tightened them up. Things are better but we still get the occasional bind up. There seems to be some slight side to side play on the arm, not sure if that’s normal or not.
The coil sleeve should go through that bracket and be sticking up past it . If your coil seeve is a bit short it won't hold the coil secure in the center . As for side to side a small amount is normal , but you should make sure that you are not missing any E clips at pivot points .
Quoted from delt31:
where can you buy speaker lights and covers if you don't get it at the factory or are they just offered at the factory and that's it?
EDIT - seems like you have to order from Spooky directly.
Question - if you can only upgrade the speakers or the Screen which one is worth it more?
Interactive speaker grills/lighting are the better upgrade (in my opinion of course)
Quoted from Crile1:
I am sitting next to mine (left it on) and have been doing some work with my lap top for the last hour. Can't say it has bothered me one bit. Much quieter than the stern fans. But I understand everyone is different. Just don't want the general public to think this is a MUST. I definitely recommend getting the game first, and see if it bothers you before you start getting potential add-ons.
Also ,As I understand swapping out the power supply voids the warranty . Something to consider before doing so .
Quoted from lpeters82:
My guess is no, but that was my guess at the total sales several years ago. spookycharlie Did my guess ever make the white board? I remember at the time 500 was considered a very optimistic guess.
I guessed over 1,000 , I hope spooky can keep building these for years to come . This game could very well keep employees at spooky working between new tittle releases .
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:
How’s the game holding-up interest-wise for owners with a few other games alongside it for variety? i.e. 3~10 games.
I’d love one of these, and they’re not easy to buy in the U.K., but would find it hard to sell an existing game (as always!)
I’ve had mine since January and it still (by far ) gets the most plays out of any other game in my house .
Quoted from o-din:
Reason I asked is the buttons aren't the smoothest action, which can happen with a lot of the replacement buttons today. I've got an extra set of vintage Bally buttons, so I was thinking about changing them out. If that won't work, I may just replace the buttons and see what happens.
I could be wrong but I think the holes in the cabinets are different so the Bally style buttons may not fit in TNA
Quoted from o-din:
We'll, there's one way to find out. I've already had them off once when I installed the lights for the side rails, so no more glue to mess with. I probably have an extra set of the newer style too. I'm feeling a little lazy to do it now though and a sticky upper flipper on Skateball is more a priority.
I've been really happy with the overall quality of TNA and besides a few switch adjustments, it has been rock solid.
One thing I haven't mentioned is after I first set it up, the center grid lights had a couple that were a little wonky and were lighting the wrong color. It took a little doing to figure it out, but my shaker and knocker weren't working either. So when I looked into that I found the little shaker and knocker board was wired backwards. So I just flipped the connector over and it fixed all the problems including the lights at once. And there have been no more problems ever since.
I don't need no schematics or special tools to fix these fancy newfangled games.
I was going to look into this when I got home but I did some work here ,had a few beers and I am not going to get around to this . Let us know how it goes for you
Has anyone tried thin nylon washers under the posts ? The size of the base of the post . I’ve seen it done on restored games with clear coated playfields , the washer acts as a cushion between the post and playfield.
Quoted from aobrien5:
I'd love to try it if someone can find a source.
Most hardware stores carry nylon washers .One that has a decent selection of hardware bins should have the right size . Home Depot or Lowe’s might have them but finding hardware like that at those stores can be frustrating.
Quoted from rai:
I'll second this. On paper TNA doesn't seem to be all that but it plays so fast and the code is so tight and the sights and sounds are fantastic... I think the extra mile by Scott is what makes it so great.
I'm still amazed at how great the pin is, especially considering how much has been done by one person.
One awesome! person .
Quoted from rai:
Was looking for better explanation of rules than tiltforums wiki rules. http://tiltforums.com/t/total-nuclear-annihilation-rulesheet/3209
Specifically the stand up and roll over targets in the upper PF.
The CORE roll over targets is there anything special if you complete the set?
The 1,2,3 stand up targets in the upper PF I know these and the roll over CORE will advance reactor but do they do anything else if you hit them in sequence or complete the three?
Completing CORE rollovers advances bonus X .
Completing 1,2,3 in sequence will max the reactor value.
You can adjust the screws in the lockdown bar receiver to make it easier to lock down . Do them each a half turn at a time until the lock bar fits nice and tight but can be latched easily.
Quoted from mrgregb123:
I want to be crystal clear that this is not an assumption. I've restored and clear coated many playfields over the years and encountered every issue there is and over time you figure out how and why things happen, whether it be fish eyes, orange peel, chipping, ghosting, etc. If your playfield is prepped properly and cleared with proper time given to cure - at least 4 weeks - you will not have this issue. Full stop.
That’s assuming the problem is with the clear coat , but if you look at the pictures of the playfields that have had issues with chipping artwork is coming up (not just clear ) . In my opinion the problem was with the surface not being properly prepped before the artwork was put on . I think the surface was too shiny (not sanded /scuffed enough) when the print was put on , not giving the ink enough to bite into to adhere properly. This is why it is artwork and clear coming Chipping(not just clear). I saw the same thing when Jjp had issues with chipping , artwork completely missing and underneath was a shiny surface . When Charlie says they resolved the issue I am assuming they are having the playfields sanded /scuffed better or more abrasive before print to ensure adhesion. But again this is just an assumption on my part (I do not know the inner workings of Charlie’s company or what was done to resolve the issue) I have also restored and cleared many playfields and I work at a collision repair shop and with automotive clear coat nearly every single day, so I may know what I’m talking about . Look at the pics on this this thread and the pics of the JJP playfields with chipping issues , same problem and it is not with clear coat or curing times .
Quoted from eemichael83:
Now that I'm able to post again (couldn't when the thread was hot), just wanted to say I wouldn't hesitate to buy a pin from Spooky again. I originally had some issues with my scoring displays not working properly and contacted Spooky about it a few times trying to resolve what the issue was. If I sent an email, I got a response, sometimes a call, within 10 minutes every. damn. time. At one point, Scott even called me to troubleshoot what the issue was and he was ultimately able to reproduce what I was experiencing and provide a solution. Where the hell else are you going to get that?! BTW thenotrashcougar, we've already got like 650 games on this thing between the wife and I in the 6 weeks we've had it... we may have a TNA problem...
Playing over 100 games a week on an awesome game is a great problem to have .
Quoted from ramsfan:
So COOL!!!! She is demonstrating some mad skills on a tough game, and her frustration when she drains is a sign of good things to come (maybe a hole in the wall, or a dented coin door or two. Good stuff!
Yeah if she sticks with it She could become a really good player . She likes co-op mode and shows her friends that when they come over . On a side note we went and watched a controlled house fire today so she could see the fire trucks and firemen . At some point she said the fire looked like destroying reactors on Total Nuclear Annohilation . It was pretty awesome.
Quoted from imharrow:
After about 1 hour of play, my right flipper is starting to get weak. I haven't taken the assembly apart yet, but will soon. It feels early to need to do a rebuild or even to need to change out the coil sleeve. What are other people's experiences with time to rebuild?
No it won’t need to be rebuilt , that time will come after thousands of plays on it . Check your coil stop , it could be loose and the coil misaligned.
Did you also check the connection on the lcd ? Your issue sounds like that cable is loose .
Quoted from joseph5185:
Does anyone ever consider it being a concern when few games were made - such as this one - and you keep seeing them pop up for sale?
Probably not? I mean there could be a 1,000 reasons someone wants to sell something and I would assume it’s only because they want something else more.
Nope, worrying about stuff like that is not worth anyone’s time in this short existence we all have . I buy games I like , that’s it .I don’t care what anyone else thinks of them , how many are for sale ,or what the market for them will be in the future .I really like this game and have no plans to ever sell it. I will admit that I am biased and this game was made to suit the type of game I enjoy to play and nailed it , but doesn’t change the fact that it is awesome. If you like this game and want to own one that is all that matters .
Quoted from Aniraf:
I've always enjoyed the little things like this in pinball. On my game (or maybe with my play style) this happens pretty infrequently. When it does, I love it. In fact, if thenotrashcougar says he knows when this happens in code I would love some kind of call out or visual! I've been very impressed that it can happen, yet not once has the game improperly trigged into a multiball mode.
Lastly, I think triggering the drop target with software would be impossible. The way those mechanisms are constructed, I think you would have to physically interact with the target in order to get it to drop.
Drop targets can be triggered with software . , it is done with an extra coil used to trigger them . They are triggered at the end of the game to release any locked balls .
TNA is in a different cabinet . It’s about 5 inches less high at the back of the cabinet . I will take measurements for Mc squid when I get a chance today .
With the head folded down the games tallest point is 27 inches . That is to the top of the head folded to the front of the cabinet . The bottom of the head folded near the back of the cabinet is 26 inches .
If most modern games are only around an inch too tall with the head folded down TNA should fit in your car .
I’ve got the plunger shot down fairly well By feel and hit the hands free skill shot about 15% of the time .
Nice !!! I was in a four ball multiball and it was insane how fast it all happened .
Check the cables going to the lcd , if those are loose the game can reset .
Quoted from BigLebowski:
BTW, the problem apparently was the interconnector board in the back of the cabinet. Only 4.7V arrived in the backbox while the power supply provided 5.3V.
A little wiggling on the respective header brought the voltage in the backbox back to 5.1V which is what´s required according to Spooky support.
Just in case anybody else runs into reset problems.
On another note: I haven´t read thorugh the whole thread, but are there any recommendations to reduce bounces from the left scoop. On my machine I get like 70% bounceouts when I hit that scoop. It´s kind of frustrating.....
I just checked this thread after a while And realize now that I never responded to you asking about which cables to check , sorry about that . Sounds like Spooky was able to help and that is good . As for left scoop bounce outs people have posted solutions to that , one thing to do is slightly bend the hood on the scoop down . I find the left scoop shot easier to hit from the left flipper .
Quoted from jurulz:
Ok MAYBE i'll try at 7 degrees
Can you confirm that this is the proper part for for the backbox latch?
That is the correct backbox latch.
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