(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

1 year ago



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  • 444 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Aflacjack
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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (1 year ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (1 year ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (1 year ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (1 year ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (1 year ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (1 year ago)

Post #2335 Picture of how trough should look like from Scott D. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #2336 Switch adjustment suggestions. Posted by jar155 (1 year ago)

Post #2353 instructions on speaker grille add-on Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #2423 Fanless Power Supply. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #2439 Images for those looking to swap the PSU fan Posted by OnTheSnap (1 year ago)

Post #2527 Info on replacement higher quality screen. Posted by audihere (1 year ago)

Post #2738 Great list of mods to consider. Posted by 27dnast (1 year ago)

Post #2834 Suggestions on contrast settings Posted by mayuh (1 year ago)

Post #3712 Spooky highlight playfield problem Posted by SpookyCharlie (8 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#637 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Well I wouldn't advise going direct with Spooky if there is any slight chance you may need to back out of your purchase. Spooky won't refund your deposit. Pinball Star will allow you to sell your position and they will help you do so. The person buying your spot will have to pay you the deposit for your spot. I'm not sure if Spooky will help you with this. You better ask them first if you are concerned.

I'm guessing Pinball Star won't refund your deposit either?
Spooky will also allow you to sell your position if you have a new buyer.
Spooky will also help you with sourcing a new buyer.

4 weeks later
#870 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

other sources Ebarf, Craigslist, Letgo.
but Why on Cassette?

Just like the pin, it's a throwback to the 80's.

#897 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Honestly in reality it's way louder.
(Wich isn't so much the problem, it's more the pitch of the sound it makes).
But srsly no biggie. Usually the game doesn't sit turned on in "attract mode" in a private home (and while playing you can't hear it anyway).
And I can still replace the fan sometime...

This is the reason I won't buy a stern spike game.
The fan noise, to me, drives me crazy.
If TNA is the same I will be definitely changing out the power supply.

#1064 1 year ago

Are the screw holes for the shaker and knocker already in the cab?
Ie are they pre drilled.

And does anyone have the dimensions of a boxed game?

2 weeks later
#1288 1 year ago
Quoted from RustyLizard:

Rotated the line up tonight. Looks good here.

Great to see some pics next to some great S/S games of that era.

1 week later
#1395 1 year ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

What am I missing?! I’m trying to update to v1.0.6 after downloading the update file. Copied it to a USB thumb drive, booted the machine, inserted the USB into an empty slot behind the back glass and nothing. Tried booting with the USB already inserted, nothing. Tried inserting the USB while booting and nothing.
Is my USB thumb drive too big? 8GB. Wrong format? FAT32. Is it the wrong day of the week? Thursday. I kept the original file name tna-gamecode.pkg
Cheers!

Same here.
Same batch of games.
Having some weird flipper movements too.

#1420 1 year ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I know right it's already been 87 days since the last code dropped!

We will have to see if we can obtain it on the black market

#1421 1 year ago

I have an issue with the game.
The time it takes for one game to finish and ready to start a new game is about 5 seconds.
Way too long
Scott, get on to that will you

The impact of the bass kicking in when the ball hits the playfield is fantastic.

#1435 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Went silent for a couple of days. That is I had nothing to ramble about (and was sick),...
But next week I'll hopefully get my shaker, knocker and *drummroll* audio cassette so I'm looking forward to make some final (?) adjustments.
Game is still great fun but I just won't get better. XD
Looking forward to the code update and PLEASE if you would integrate an option that the machine can be used as a jukebox, playing MP3s from USB. That'd be awesome.

Shaker rumbles all through critical reactor sequence and really adds to the atmosphere.
Definitely needed.

#1440 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

How are the blow up reactor targets selected once you get to critical? Is it random? That lower left RAD target is a PIA for me.

Yes I haven't figured out an easy way to hit them also.
Seems like you can only rely on on a random shot from the pop.
Or go into multiball for more chances.
Even the scoop is a tough shot from either flipper, must be spot on to drop.
We need to learn to play better
Bowens strategy to keep in multball seems to be a good one.
Played in multiplayer game for the first time last night, makes for a fun game steeling other people's multiballs.

#1442 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Exactly what I was thinking. Or at least same for each player in multiplayer. Big difference bowing up a reactor from the pop bumper or middle targets vs lower left RAD target.

Random per each player.

#1503 1 year ago

The gent that did the 4K stream, Karl is it?
He got it in the stream when he destroyed the 9 reactors.

1 week later
#1578 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Waitet for 30+ minutes updating then turned the machine off with still no "Update Finished" notice on screen.
Luckily everything is working but definately wish for a progress bar. Kinda died inside I'd brick the machine.

Use a different USB stick.

#1616 1 year ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

You know what you could do for a Tournament mode.. To stop player 1 having a whinge that they are at a disadvantage that no one can lock balls for them you could retain any locked balls from the last ball of the previous game rather than dumping them. Then they have the same odds of having a locked ball available to them that player 2 has.
Hey Scott a few questions though, when clearing a ball in the shooter lane why not open both orbit gates and let the ball go all the way round like a regular plunge? Also I haven't been able to find it but is there a setting to clear the balls from the trough? I've just been manually ejecting the balls pushing the trough eject coil myself.
A question for those with dudd RGB LEDs, I've heard some people are bringing them back to life with a soldering iron? I have a soldering iron and no idea what to do to try and bring them back to life, can someone give me a quick heads up what I should try to do with them to see whether I can get them working again? Which pin needs to be resoldered?

I'm guessing you have 6 out and the green is not working?
Pull one out. One plug and one screw easy.
The led is soldered in with 4 pads in a square formation. Re flow the solder to all 4 pads.
Put back in and test.
If your not sure, once you take one out,PM me and I'll walk you through it.

#1733 1 year ago

That pic is crying for lighted speaker covers.
Hurry up Scott

#1739 1 year ago
Quoted from imharrow:

Anyone else having trouble with right flipper hold not being able to always resisting the kick out of the left scope? It will start to flutter. There is no EOS, which is how this is normally handled. Will increasing the flipper strength help?

Contact spooky.
They are aware of the issue.

4 weeks later
#2048 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Yes - I purchased all of the songs on iTunes so at least I have heard the others....just never from the pinball itself.

Haha - that's how I'm able to hear 3 & 4.

You can hear all 9 tracks in sound test mode on the game

#2056 1 year ago

How we looking with the speaker covers?

#2127 1 year ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

What does the RAD targets do? Same question for the 1-2-3?
As far as production goes, I’ve had literally zero issues out of box. I put all leg levelers down set it up and started playing. Haven’t measured the incline but seems to be playing great. I think sound is great out of box. Balls looked fine to me so I’ve been using them. (Guessing maybe from Pinball Life? - scott?), playfield is perfect. Easiest setup I’ve ever done.

Complete RAD to light mystery award.

4 weeks later
#2449 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is the psu difficult to remove from the game?

No

#2475 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

I brick 90%of my right orbit shots also. It’s just a super tight nasty shot.
So I just post pass to right flipper and use left orbit to enter the reactor.

That becomes a lot harder when you get to reactor 4 and onwards.

2 weeks later
#2721 1 year ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Received and installed!
This is just a TNA kind of day!

Got me thinking now.
Hhmmm a ceramic ball in one of my early 80s Pin.

#2758 1 year ago
Quoted from bigehrl:

sorry if this has been discussed, but is there a protector available for the scoop? not sure if it's even needed, since my game arrives next month and i've never even played one.

The scoop has an internal shield but a cliffy will be needed.
I don't think one is available yet.

1 week later
#2848 1 year ago

I too have done the fan swap out to the Stealth model mentioned in previous posts.
It does cut the noise down quite a lot.
Not really noticeable now.

#2860 1 year ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

So did ours. Also, the way the PSU is mounted in the cabinet, we had to unscrew it so we could turn it around and read/toggle the voltage switch. Could have used a small mirror, perhaps, had we had one at hand. Slightly annoying, but I'm glad we took the time to actually check, instead of hope for the best
The game rocks, though. We have it on half price for the first two weeks (2 credits pr. token), but I suspect it will still be the top earner for that period.

I took a pic with my phone at the back so you could see the voltage setting.

#2904 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

More
Almost always rejects from the right flipper. Left Flipper about 50%. Now I mostly shoot into the reactor and drop in from the top side.

How is the wood looking on the outside of the scoop?

#2919 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Mines holding up perfectly - no problems. Was thinking of lowering the scoop a fraction as suggested by Scott.

Mines starting to ware on the sides...

IMG_2707 (resized).JPG
2 weeks later
-4
#3138 1 year ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

They hop in every cabinet while doing assembly... I'm now trying to match the footprint with the Minion that forgot to clean it off!
ARRRGGGHHHHH!!!!

These are all supposedly inspected by yourself.
Why didn't you pick it up?

3 weeks later
#3243 11 months ago

Its supposed to be like that.
It's the 80's look Scott was trying to achieve.

#3271 11 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

It's supposed to have a terrible viewing angle?
I don't think so...

I don't have any issues with the viewing angle.

3 weeks later
#3380 10 months ago
Quoted from T7:

But it's so secret, I don't know what it is!

Launch the ball right round the orbit. Let it dead bounce from the left flipper to the right. Hit the right flipper into the lock.

Now he will have to call it something else.
It's not a secret any longer

1 month later
#3530 9 months ago

I can't believe the amount of times I've been on ball 3 and bricked the shot into the scoop to start reactor 3 to gain the extra ball.

#3539 9 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Torx on toppers is great and standard. It has been like that for years and helps deter theft on route.

Yer it was hard work pinching a Dr who topper while on route in the day

2 weeks later
#3606 9 months ago
Quoted from blurfocus:

My TNA's right flipper is misbehaving. When the flipper is held in the up position, it can be knocked back down by a ball hitting the flipper, even when the ball doesn't hit it very hard.
For example, if I short plunge so that the ball nearly makes the upper lanes, so that the falls back down the right orbit - Then, the ball will be moving fast enough that it knocks down the right flipper when I am holding it up. If the ball is moving slower (e.g. due to a shorter plunge), then the flipper stays up when the ball hits it. This flipper collapse problem just started happening in the past day or two. The left flipper seems fine.
This TNA has only 119 games played and 364 balls played. It has version 1.2.1 of the software installed.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this or how to diagnose it?
Here is a link to an 11 second video showing the problem happening. I did not release the flipper button, but the flipper goes down when the ball hits it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/q3cko1KvcD2EQrgz7
Thanks,
John Garnett

Try going into the menu home settings,machine(standard) and lift up flipper hold boost level by one.

#3610 9 months ago
Quoted from blurfocus:

The flipper hold boost setting was on 2. I just now tried changing it to 3. That did improve it slightly, but the problem still occurs when the ball hits it hard. For example, the scoop ball eject will knock the right flipper down every time even with boost level at 3. Also, if I shoot the ball up the left orbit so that the ball comes all the way around and hits the raised right flipper, it will knock it down every time (even with boost = 3).
However, boost level 3 did keep the flipper from being knocked down due to a short-plunged ball (like was demo'd in the video I linked in my original post). Even in this case of a fairly slow ball, the flipper still gave a fraction of an inch before recovering to a fully raised position.
Ideas?
Thanks for the help,
John

You need to contact spooky tech support as it could be a number of different issues.
There very responsive.

1 week later
#3670 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Will be in the next update. Sorry, was an oversight by me.
--Scott

Next update.
I'm liking that

#3731 8 months ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Let's get some machine numbers to see when this started. Born on Dates.
-Mike

See post #2919

#3751 8 months ago
Quoted from KingKool:

I've set the playfield to approximately the recommended 6.5 degrees. It seems to happen frequently when the ball is thrown by the bottom right kicker; the ball is thrown over into the left-hand drain lane.

Just turn down the coil power for the slings in the menu.

1 month later
#3930 7 months ago
Quoted from DadofTwins:

I learned last night that on a plunge, if you hit the lane that's lit white as a skill shot, it lights up the scoop for the first reactor instantly. The ball drops out of the top side into the scoop and boom, first reactor started.

That's the super skill shot.
Before plunging you can move the lane to set up your shot. Very important shot further on the game as the reactors get harder to destroy.
Also noticed in destroy mode you can re generate your destroy shot to another target.

#3934 7 months ago
Quoted from rai:

Can you explain that?

It happens so quick.
I was in destroy mode went into multiball to get that D target just couldn't hit it so dropped all the inline targets and went into the scoop.
Heard the game say target re generated and the target to hit had shifted to the destroy target.
Think that's how it happened

#3979 7 months ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Revisiting my drop target issues/errors.
In switch test mode they seem to function fine mechanically. However, when target 1 and 2 drop they don't register as dropped. Target 3 does regisiter. Also, i do get all 3 opti alerts for all three balls. Target 3 registers up and down.
So there seems to be an issue with target 1 and 2 drops which is the errors I'm getting.
If it's not mechanical (springs,etc), how do I fix this?
Thanks!
EDIT:
I think I found the culprit. The little button is not registering on 1 and 2 but works perfect on 3. Do I need 2 new parts? See picture. It completely doesn't work on target 1, on target 2 it works about 20% of the time.
For everyone getting drop target errors check the switches/buttons.
EDIT: #2 with a meter reading all three buttons seem to register the same as in when the button is depressed it registers a change on the meter reading. So now I don't know if the issue lies in the button/switch or in a board somewhere else. The plug this firmly in the board.
Sorry I an a newbie when it comes to repairs.
[quoted image]

I had drop target 1 down error last night.
I removed all the balls.
I lifted the playfield up to the backbox( I usually put a towel or something across the top of the edge of the backbox)
I turned the machine on and went into switch test mode in the menu.
Now any switch I make, makes a noise and the screen tells you what switch was made.
Carefully push that drop darget 1 switch down with your finger, if the switch is ok it will make the noise.
You can check the others too.
Now does the switch make when the drop target drops?
With your finger on the top of the playfield push the drop target down.
Does it make a noise?
Mine did not make the noise.
You can push the target back up by pushing the rod in the coil up and back.

Now on your pic you see the two nuts holding the switch, one has a slot in it.
You can loosen the two nuts and adjust the switch to make when the drop target is down.
The slot is there to give you some adjustment on all the switches in the drops.(good thinking Scott)
I hope I have explained this easy for you to understand.

#3981 7 months ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I understand what you are saying, but I don't think adjusting it will help. It's not registering even when I take my finger and push it all the way in (the button the arrow is point to).

Quite possibly a bad switch.
If you bridge the switch wires with a wire and it registers, it's the switch.
If it doesn't the problem is further up the line.
I'm going to order a few of those switches for spares myself.

#4027 7 months ago

The posts in question are being hit hard and are becoming loose.
Once loose and not noticed the end result is movement and paint lose.

#4036 7 months ago

It's working well...

IMG_2904 (resized).JPGIMG_2905 (resized).JPG
#4041 7 months ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Have you had it on there for a while? I’d try to find some washers with smaller holes though so they couldn’t move if the post were to loosen up .

That's all I had at the time.
It's been on about 4 weeks now.
I keep checking it to make sure it's tight.
All good so far.

#4093 7 months ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Hope so. Mine is on the line now. If the answer is to give longer cure time I'm happy to wait. I fail to see how a short term manufacturing process would correct this.

Spending 6 to 8 weeks shipping to Australia and curing, mine also has paint loss.

#4098 7 months ago

I was assuming we would be getting the same playfields that they did their testing on that showed over 1,000,000 hits to the scoop without chipping it.

22554945_1587462981314923_6813432946561869941_n[1] (resized).jpg
#4102 7 months ago
Quoted from Meorrow:

When the ball goes down an inlane, the opposite orbit will light up. It doesn't stay lit for long - you *almost* have to send the ball through the orbit as it's leaving the inlane to get it in time, though I've managed to brick the shot and still get it up there with a second try occasionally.

From reactor 4 onwards you can only enter the reactor from one side.
The orbit light will tell you which side you can enter.
The sides alternate with switch hits to the bottom in lanes.
Is this what you are talking about?

#4174 7 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I did the same thing once. They need to add a better stop at the end of the rail, ala Homepin's setup for this.

I've done the same thing on a Stern.

1 week later
#4278 6 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

in tourney you would have to report that situation.

Speaking of tourney's
I've noticed with this game I get a few drained balls that will bounce right back into the playing area and are saved.
Like an auto bang back or death save.
What is the ruling on this in a comp?

1 week later
#4423 6 months ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

All five slingshots push the rubber down as shown in the photo. Not as dramatic in the core slings, but still enough to throw the ball out. The slomo video shows the upward launch path, but some are definitely bouncing hard down first.
Will test the updated beta code and report back tonight, hopeful for some positive results.

Check the voltage of the 48V power supply while your at it.

#4457 6 months ago

Are the rubbers on TNA silicone?

1 week later
#4558 6 months ago

Is the power filter board from pinball life an add on board?

1 week later
#4602 5 months ago

What are the chances of adding a sound to the flipper buttons in attract mode?
Maybe a nuclear explosion or the siren sound

#4618 5 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

So now that my game is home in my basement it is time to address the screaming loud PS fan.
Looks like the stock fan spec is for 23.5 CFM Noise Level 34.5 dBA.
I see here in OnTheSnap posting (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/49#post-4370299) that he used one with much lower airflow (and noise): Air Flow: 12 CFM Noise Level: 20 dBA
Is there a general consensus that this lower airflow is sufficient?
I have found this model that is very quiet: Air Flow 13.8 CFM Noise 10.7 dB(A) (https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/fans-thermal-management/dc-fans/217?k=fan+60x60x25&k=&pkeyword=fan+60x60x25&sv=0&pv191=2059&sf=0&FV=ffe000d9%2C38007e%2C30404d2%2C1f140000&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25)
Anyone do this mod and have any issues with the PS overheating, etc.? Am I good to go?

See post #2439

#4661 5 months ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Now if I can just hear the music for reactors 6-9 on my machine rather than on SoundCloud or a pink cassette tape....

Well if you really want to hear them before getting to those reactors you can by going into the test menu.

#4694 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think we’re talking about two different things.
People missing the scoop
People hitting the scoop and it rejecting the shot.
For people in the latter camp, I think Scott suggested adjusting the roof on the scoop down a bit to help the ball stay in there when you shoot it.

Yes he did, he also suggested removing the scoop and adding a washer or two between the playfield and the scoop thus lowering the scoop slightly.
I have done this and it certainly helps with rejects, still a tough shot but better.

#4695 5 months ago

There is another...

IMG_2945 (resized).JPG
2 weeks later
#4769 4 months ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Can someone send me the numbers off the backbox key? We may have lost ours and I have a pile I can go through before picking or drilling. There was much drinking and rejoicing after the last code update.

Mine is H95

3 weeks later
#4930 4 months ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

I have tried all kinds of solutions like that. Velcro, rubber pads, drop dead foam, etc. My problem is the ball bounces right off the back of the scoop, no matter what I cover it with.

Bend the scoop forward.

#4951 3 months ago

Im guessing a cliffy on there will make that shot a lot harder.

#4974 3 months ago

The 10 x 3/8 is wrong and it should be 10 x 3/16.

2 months later
#5376 46 days ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Reactor 9 runs with skipnatty happening now! http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball

Great stream with the reactor 9 kill on the last game.
In 37 minutes.

#5387 41 days ago
Quoted from Rob-T-800:

Anyone have bull jump issues?
Ive had it hit the glass, sidewalls, wood rails.

Go into the menu and adjust the coil settings down on the slings.
It will become a little tamer then

2 weeks later
#5452 25 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

That is cleaver! I wonder if we could get a light on the rim so that it would illuminate the design.

I'd like to see that
Between the two ideas, you may have stumbled across a great mod for all pins.

2 weeks later
#5489 11 days ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Hi All, can anyone suggest the best way to protect the left scoop edges on TNA? I have seen people using mylar, self laminating sheets, and also "painting" an adhesive or something on the inside edges to protect it. Also, if anyone knows the latest on when a Cliffy might come available (I am aware there are design/install challenges with that part of the playfield).
Thanks so much!i asked that question a long time ago on here and was told to get over it, its a pinball machine.
So probably not a good thing to ask.

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