Hello - just got my TNA a week ago and am putting in the new ball save lcd w lights. You know that wire ladder that’s in the way? Any issue with cutting the bottom of that off (the part that connects to playfield)? Appears pretty sturdy without attachment.

Thanks for the replies. Here’s another question- you know that fan drawing in the middle of the playfield? What if I put a tiny fan in a small plastic enclosure (the size of the drawing) with a light in there? Would it be easy to just wire those through one of the ball lock opto holes to a source of power and another light? Maybe make the fan run w a green light and then it stops with red light when reactor is critical? Or would that take programming?

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The green protectors are f’ing DOPE. I’m thinking about putting pink in the center though. Anyways, I’m working on this reactor coolant fan mod and then the coolant pump after that. I don’t have faith in that stock fan!

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What if some easy programming could have one (or all three if used) RGB lights stay lit green and flash red when the reactor is critical? And then it was an option in the settings? And then I PayPal’d someone for their time? Just wondering.

If there’s an unused RGB drive that’s even better (I was thinking of using whatever was available from the drop target lights). I ordered a small computer fan that’s usb powered and was gonna plug it into an open slot on the board for power. Then i wanted to put a light in the housing (or next to it) for a reactor cooling fan.
Is plugging this into an open slot a bad idea? If not, could that unused drive be easily programmed?

Thanks! Oh I meant plug fan into open usb (same one I plug my thumb drive into to update code).

This is the fan I ordered, unfortunately wont be here for another week. I agree slowing the blades down would look better, might be able to by restricting airflow. I’m sure the rpm is pretty high without restriction. The size seems about perfect though.

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Here’s the reactor coolant pump and fan sketch. Ridiculous? Jump to conclusions mat?

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Thanks, but when i get it together it may not be very impressive. Worth a try.

Roger that, Imma pick up some Bombay and mull it over with some tonic

I was putting in the new ball save and noticed the third wire loose from the left flipper. Flipper is working fine. Anyone know what that wire does? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?

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Thanks - I’ll eventually fix it - just was wondering what it was for and why the coil was still working.

Wow I’m an idiot. Easy fix tho - thanks!

Agreed- you’ll have to post your setup. The fan I got is a little small and spins way too fast. But I’m working on something a bit more like you have shown in your post. If you get something put together please post it.

I’m not sure what the intent of the backbox drive is? Did you have something in mind (or did someone else on the forum mention it)?
As far as the 4th light associated with the drop targets - thanks!

1.4.1 UPLOADED. HAPPY. ALREADY WANT MORE CODE.

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You can use the 4th LED associated with the lit drop target mod. Off by default. It will light blue when reactor is ready, green when activated, and red when critical. Turns off after blowing reactor.

Anyone know if I could power an led strip from the usb in the backbox? Or would that be bad? 0.5 amps.

Wait, shouldn’t the lock sticker be on the drop target by the scoop followed by #1 and then #2 up front?

Thank you for the logic validation!

I’m having an issue (see pics). Had several multiballs that I didn’t earn. I did the drop target test and everything was fine. Right scoop eject worked fine, also checked switches and the optos all seemed spot on. Any ideas what the problem is? This TNA needs to be fully functional - it’s BEGGING me for help.

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Thanks for the quick reply and help. The right scoop coil is working. I will try the opto connectors, but here’s some more info in case it clarifies things. I turned the game back on and it went through several ball searches (all balls were in the trough). I started a game and all drop targets started in the down position. I went to the drop target test and they all went up and down, no error.
Not sure if that changes your advice, just wanted to make sure the opto is the issue. Thanks again for helping

Agreed, very cool. But we need to give him space so he can work on his next masterpiece - the TNA prequel. I’m guessing there’s going to be some crazy light shows and buildings exploding and a tank that shoots the locked balls across the playfield. Listen, I don’t know if this is in the works - but people want it - I know that much.

Thanks Scott! Opto connector was the problem. I was going to remove the insulation on the wires and try to smash the connector over bare wire, but that didn’t seem possible so ended up having a friend solder the wires directly to the ID connector. Had to restart a couple times but she’s 100% now. Now I’m back to trying to get that LIONMAN mystery award.

I had some audio issues with the single audio input to the amplifier, so got a 3.5mm to 2 RCA adapter and it fixed the issue. Then I was thinking I should split that 3.5 mm signal and run it to an external sub also. That seemed to work, so then I was thinking I should unplug the line running to the sub and just extend it another 15' to my surround receiver - that would have the entire basement bumping. But the problem is there's a significant delay in the music to the surround and it's also pretty quiet. Is this just signal loss in the longer run? Does this also explain the delay?
Not a big deal but I'm just wondering if someone with some more audio knowledge has some info. Thanks

I did see that video, I think the difference is you run the audio directly to your receiver - mine is split and then run to the spooky amp and the receiver. My speakers /receiver are not in the same area as the game (20 feet away instead of 2 feet like yours). I'll give going directly to the receiver a shot, but even if it works would be weird without going back to the game for the cabinet speakers.

I looked at joining the fang club a couple weeks ago, but it said you had to be signed up by August 1st for the 2022 “goodies”. I figured this meant early access so I didn’t sign up. At $9k I’m not sure I would have followed through anyway. I wasn’t that shocked but was thinking $8k would be reasonable.
Maybe it’s because they are doing such a limited run, but I figured with the code and layout all in place it would be cheaper to manufacture. The plans are complete, just assemble.

I think he also said he has no say in the pricing. I’m hoping a good portion of the price is going directly to him.

TNA is an amazing game, Scott has posted many times to help people with any issues they had - including me. If you’re buying a 2.0, I don’t think you’ll have any regrets. The fact that you have someone who cares about people enjoying the game and will ensure you do is priceless.

I put the scoop cliffy on mine and the ball would get hung up on the upper area every once in awhile. The ball search would kick it in, but I’d prby skip that one.