Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinden007.
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How often can you guys get action on the upper flipper when you get the ball into the upper play field? I played about 15 games on location and it seemed that less than 50% of the time could I get the ball over to the flipper and sometimes it would miss the scoop entirely when falling thru.
I also had a lot of rebounds from the reactor jackpot targets sdtm.
Other than those 2 things, the game was addicting.
Quoted from Whysnow:If your slings up there are not sensitive switch adjusted then try giving it a nidge up when the ball comes down from the upper lanes to get some action.
There is a setting to change the sensitivity?
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:No adjust switch sensitivity so that light hits set off the slings. Otherwise it will feel dead.
Where is that adjustment?
It is dead which is why balls drain from the upper play field without an opportunity to flip them - even with a big nudge. Ruins the game, IMO.
Quoted from FatPanda:Leaf switch adjustment. You have to take the plastic off, move the rubber out of the way, and adjust the rear contact blade so they are closer together. If you don't have a leaf adjuster tool, a thin flat blade screwdriver works. Usually 1/8" gap is tight enough for super sensitive switches without phantom hits from playfield vibrations.
Thanks.
Unfortunately this one is on location but I will mention it next time I am there.
Quoted from nalsa:Thanks Scott! I will put that into my next pinball life order. And I know you are not direct support, but just as a matter of FYI in case it would be good to pass along to spooky, this is a new machine just took delivery a week ago yesterday, and it was happening straight out of the box.
I've played 3 different TNAs over the last month and they ALL have this error.
For the folks having drop target errors, exactly which springs are you replacing. I assume it's spring 1 in my picture since that's closer to the size of the replace springs that was suggested earlier in this thread. But boy are those springs heavy duty compared to the replacements.
Thanks!
IMG_4066 (resized).jpgQuoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Replacing a spring is only meant for those that adjusted the drop target back and forth too much and the beefy spring (#1 in your pic) is too strong and bending the weakened adjustment finger by itself. If I were you, I would run the drop target test in the service menu to see what the issue is.
--Scott
I did run it in test mode and got target 1/2 drop error every time. How do I fix that.?
When I play a game sometimes I only need to lock 2 balls and the first target will drop to start MB. Then during MB I get continuous jackpots without hitting any shots.
Things were fine for about the first 50 games.
Thanks for the help.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Run the test and take a pic of the results. Watch the drop targets too. They will cycle up, then down and repeat. If one is not staying up, there is a physical issue somewhere. If the drops look like they are going up, staying up and then dropping normally when the machine is trying to drop them in the test, you may have a dead switch.
Drop target 2 and 3 pop up, stay up for a second, then go down. Drop target 1 doesn't seem to popup when it should, then pops up for a split second then goes down.
I wish I could post the video some where.
drop target test (resized).jpgQuoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Yeah post a video to YouTube, it looks like you could have 2 switch errors here. The drops are probably functioning normally. Can you test the switches in switch test?
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Restart your game and try that again. You may have just found a bug in my test mode software.
Here is the test after a reboot. It seems like only the first drop target is the issue in that it doesn't stay up.
Quoted from Nevus:+1 White power button for resets. Worked for me the only time it happened.
My personal drop target issue. On my game, the actual black plastic target had longer springs from the factory. PBL set me three slightly shorter springs that were a very simple swap out. It solved the problem completely in my case.
My game is now playing perfectly, except it’s really hard.
Which springs? #2 in my photo above?
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:OK, switch error on #2 and #1 has a physical issue. Both easy fixes. Make sure the screws in the side of the little black switch body are not too tight, this can cause the switch to stick a little. Take the playfield up with the power off and see why #1 wont stay up. Might be as easy as the brass finger is dragging on the black drop target.
--Scott
Ok thanks. I will try and take a look today. So I don't have any spring issues?
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:OK, switch error on #2 and #1 has a physical issue. Both easy fixes. Make sure the screws in the side of the little black switch body are not too tight, this can cause the switch to stick a little. Take the playfield up with the power off and see why #1 wont stay up. Might be as easy as the brass finger is dragging on the black drop target.
--Scott
So I found that spring 3 (in pic) was stuck in a compressed position. I jiggled it a little and it snapped back into place. So now the drop target test works as it should.
The targets appear to work now except that after locking 2 ball and hitting the drop target for MB, the machine seems a little delayed in realizing that I started MB - even though the target drops immediately and the balls come out. I don't remember it doing that before a few days ago - it was almost instant.
I also still get a bunch or drop target errors on just about every ball, but the targets seem to be working except for what I mentioned last paragraph.
Any ideas? Thanks.
IMG_4066 (resized).jpgRevisiting my drop target issues/errors.
In switch test mode they seem to function fine mechanically. However, when target 1 and 2 drop they don't register as dropped. Target 3 does regisiter. Also, i do get all 3 opti alerts for all three balls. Target 3 registers up and down.
So there seems to be an issue with target 1 and 2 drops which is the errors I'm getting.
If it's not mechanical (springs,etc), how do I fix this?
Thanks!
EDIT:
I think I found the culprit. The little button is not registering on 1 and 2 but works perfect on 3. Do I need 2 new parts? See picture. It completely doesn't work on target 1, on target 2 it works about 20% of the time.
For everyone getting drop target errors check the switches/buttons.
EDIT: #2 with a meter reading all three buttons seem to register the same as in when the button is depressed it registers a change on the meter reading. So now I don't know if the issue lies in the button/switch or in a board somewhere else. The plug this firmly in the board.
Sorry I an a newbie when it comes to repairs.
Quoted from Toads:I had drop target 1 down error last night.
I removed all the balls.
I lifted the playfield up to the backbox( I usually put a towel or something across the top of the edge of the backbox)
I turned the machine on and went into switch test mode in the menu.
Now any switch I make, makes a noise and the screen tells you what switch was made.
Carefully push that drop darget 1 switch down with your finger, if the switch is ok it will make the noise.
You can check the others too.
Now does the switch make when the drop target drops?
With your finger on the top of the playfield push the drop target down.
Does it make a noise?
Mine did not make the noise.
You can push the target back up by pushing the rod in the coil up and back.
Now on your pic you see the two nuts holding the switch, one has a slot in it.
You can loosen the two nuts and adjust the switch to make when the drop target is down.
The slot is there to give you some adjustment on all the switches in the drops.(good thinking Scott)
I hope I have explained this easy for you to understand.
I understand what you are saying, but I don't think adjusting it will help. It's not registering even when I take my finger and push it all the way in (the button the arrow is point to).
Quoted from xbmanx:Same here by 2 different posts. This playfield has held up worse and is showing earlier damage then any other game I own or have seen wear since NIB.
What ever protection they put under those posts failed miserably. All mine curled up under and around the posts and I had to remove them. I also have paint gone around the post by the scoop as a direct result of the mylar or what it is they used - not from game play.
Quoted from ryan1234:Could it be a bad batch of star posts?
Maybe a sharp molded edges or the middle section of the post not hitting the playfeild so the ouside really digs in?
Just trying to look at all possible things...
I think it was the mylar that pulled up the play field.
Anyone get a response from spooky today?
Quoted from Toads:The posts in question are being hit hard and are becoming loose.
Once loose and not noticed the end result is movement and paint lose.
Not on mine. The paint peel is exactly around the edge of where the mylar was.
Quoted from Pinballocd:Thanks for this. How many are you installing on the game and locations?
I am afraid to unscrew any posts that don't visibly have an issue.
Like was mentioned earlier - the ball doesn't contact the playfield area in question(what the washer is protecting)
Quoted from atrainn:Mine is supposed to be delivered today. I'm debating on just installing the neoprene washers immediately.
I would put something down to hold the playfield paint in place while you are unscrewing the posts. Be super careful.
I looked closely last night and it appears I only had 4 posts that had mylar around them. At least I only found 4 with residue left around them - 1 of which the paint has lifted up.
Quoted from Toads:I had drop target 1 down error last night.
I removed all the balls.
I lifted the playfield up to the backbox( I usually put a towel or something across the top of the edge of the backbox)
I turned the machine on and went into switch test mode in the menu.
Now any switch I make, makes a noise and the screen tells you what switch was made.
Carefully push that drop darget 1 switch down with your finger, if the switch is ok it will make the noise.
You can check the others too.
Now does the switch make when the drop target drops?
With your finger on the top of the playfield push the drop target down.
Does it make a noise?
Mine did not make the noise.
You can push the target back up by pushing the rod in the coil up and back.
Now on your pic you see the two nuts holding the switch, one has a slot in it.
You can loosen the two nuts and adjust the switch to make when the drop target is down.
The slot is there to give you some adjustment on all the switches in the drops.(good thinking Scott)
I hope I have explained this easy for you to understand.
With the power off, the switches do click when I press them in. However, only 1 registers in switch test.
Spooky is sending me new switches so I am looking forward to getting this thing working as it should. I don't believe any springs were the cause of my drop target errors - just 2 switches.
Quoted from floyd1977:It should be on a label on the right side (inside) of the cabinet.
I see that label that has the serial number, but no game number - unless it's the last 3 of the S/N.
Quoted from Toyguy:Yeah, tomorrow is maintenance night at our co-op so I’ll be opening her up again to double check there was no damage from the pf drop and take a look at the drops. Ordered the post washers today too, as those Mylar disks are gone after a dozen games. They may as well not bother with those - they don’t last at all.
I’m definitely going to have to come up with something to retain that playfield or it will happen again. Just a matter of time...
I replaced 2 switches today and played a few games. No more drop target errors so that is good.
I still think spring #3 on drop target 1 in my picture is getting stuck in a compressed mode every 20 games or so.
What is the best fix for that? I have to take a closer look to make sure the it's the spring and not something getting caught to keep it in that compressed position.
IMG_4066 (resized).jpgQuoted from estrader:Anyone have info about the washers from spooky? Before Christmas I’m hoping.
Mine were supposed to come yesterday but it appears the USPS is late. I am anxious to see what they gave me to 'fix' the issue.
Quoted from mrgregb123:Do everyone's operator test "forward" and "back" (the two in the middle) barely ever work? Mine almost never do anything and I often have to use the flippers in the menu. Can't do this for volume though. Not sure if I have bad button or what. They are wired properly and nothing seems loose.
My buttons seem sticky, i.e., they jump 2 for every 1 time I push them.
Quoted from atrainn:Spooky is sending me the acrylic washers but I think I'd rather stick with something softer.
I got mine yesterday from Spooky and they were a mess. Miss cuts, scratched, spidered - not something I would want to use on the play field. I think I will stick to Lowes. I only really need 1.
Quoted from pinwin:Yes, you have to replace them with:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-service-button.html
According to Chris at spooky.
Mine aren't so bad that I need to replace them.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I've looked multiple times now and haven't seen the issue discussed over 100 games on mine. should I go ahead and install? I'm #328
I think that depends. Some folks on here believe the issue is from game play and the ball banging into the posts - which very well may be. It's my belief that my issue was caused solely by faulty mylar (or whatever they used) around the posts. In the process of it pealing up, it lifted the paint around 1 post. That is the only post I plan on putting a washer on and that is just to protect against it eroding any more even though the ball never appears to roll over it.
Look to see if you have any mylar left around the posts or if it's in the process of pealing or is completely gone. That may determine if you should put anything down in it.
Quoted from Fytr:Having said that, if it will make you feel better there should be no harm in adding these (that we know of, anyway).
Just make sure the post doesn't spin in any way when loosening them - if that's even possible.
I think a cool mystery award to add (if it's not already there) would be to reset the locks (when applicable).
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Yep, already in there. Called "Light Locks".
I’ve never encountered that one.
Quoted from AndHart120:Lesson learned. Don’t take pictures. Ball 3 Player 1 of 4 player co-op mode. 7 reactors down in 8 balls.....and then 0 in the last 4. Left reactor 8 critical with 2 targets on the left side to go. I can’t imagine getting this far in a normal game!
[quoted image]
We finally beat the game in 4 player co-op mode (there were only 2 of us). We had one shot left to hit (D) with 3 balls left. We almost choke it away but managed to hit it on the last (12th) ball - pretty intense last 2 balls. I think we scored 15mm. Previously, we never got past reactor 7.
Also, does the last digit have significance on the scores in that picture above? (5014441 vs 5014442)
Quoted from Pmaino:Hitting the power button on the computer worked. Thanks Scott![quoted image]
I am also getting the no signal. What power button are you talking about? I don't see one.
Thanks.
Quoted from KingPinGames:Start by checking the HDMI cable from the CPU to the display panel. make sure it secure. if that looks good, then (with the game on) use your finger to locate the "power button" on the CPU. it is located under the barrel plug connector in the lower right corner of the CPU board. push this button and see if it comes on.
otherwise, you can email [email protected] and they can assist you more.
I found the tiny button and it worked. Thanks.
Need some help (running 1.3.1)
Was in the middle of a game and the game starting making a loud humming noise in place of the game sound.
Cycled game, humming noise returned again during game. Reseated the black jack and now I have no sound (or humming).
Cycled game and sometimes I get no signal on the screen and sometimes I get a working screen. In either case - no sound.
Do I have something loose that could be causing the sound and signal issues?
Thanks!
Quoted from mettle64:I just encountered this recently! My problem was the 3.5mm audio connection to the amp in the bottom of the cabinet. Try turning the machine on with the playfield raised and wiggle that cable where it meets the amp. I put a dab of hot glue to keep it steady even with the shaker going and that fixed it up just fine!
Thanks!
Got it working!
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Vandalia, OH