Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Ouch. The want is very very real..but at 9K I'm priced out. The 250 will go fast though.
In same boat, definitely want, but they charge sales tax for FL and with shipping, will be over 10k, hard pull to swallow.
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Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Ouch. The want is very very real..but at 9K I'm priced out. The 250 will go fast though.
In same boat, definitely want, but they charge sales tax for FL and with shipping, will be over 10k, hard pull to swallow.
Quoted from Lateralus:So, is this only available for Fang Club members? Otherwise, now everyone knows when to order one thanks to those who share the Fang Club emails to everybody...
I'm all for sharing with the community here, but if people really wanted to be a member they would've signed up for one. Just blatantly sharing the membership emails to everyone pretty much dilutes the exclusive membership...
Just smh over here as I'm not one that craves attention on the forums. Am I in the wrong thinking this way? Maybe I am...
I posted your question on the other Spooky thread asking Luke to confirm as he’s been responding to others.
Quoted from lpeters82:You will have to be a Fang Club Member to order when they launch.
Thanks so much.
Now where do I have to live to not have to pay sales tax LOL?
Quoted from beltking:I got my number for the TNA and am number 9 so I should receive mine quick. They said they begin building in two weeks or so.
Quoted from JToeps:#4 and psyched. now to find space for it until the gameroom is done...
Congrats, what were your order numbers? Assuming it goes by the same order and would be able to determine since your orders are so close.
Thanks
Depends on location of course but they do charge for Florida
Not sure if it’s against the full price or just the remaining balance after the deposit.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:So this is definitely an issue with either a flaky power connector or serial cable on your LED board line. Definitely replace the IDC connectors with crimp connectors to bulletproof this game. I have posted this a bunch of times here on how to do it and which connectors to use. I cannot seem to locate the post though.. Just swap the IDC power connectors to Trifucon crimp terminals in the crimp and stuff housings and you will be good to go!
--Scott
Here’s the ones I found Scott posted:
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Hey Spooky….
Offer the option with an upcharge, please?
Fingers crossed
Quoted from squeekj:I currently have at my home the light up side rails and the light up spooky. Just waiting for the machine to be delivered next week to install them.
Same here and the target decals.
Quoted from beltking:Spoke to Lanez and the shooter rods are available on this link.
https://www.lanezcustomsteel.com/collection/black-sparkle-shooter-rod-housing
Thanks for posting.
Does anyone know if we could just have him ship it to Spooky directly for those that haven’t yet had their machine built?
I know on the previous run that you could order upgrades through Pinball Life and have them shipped to have Spooky install?
I know I would need to contact Spooky to see if this was an option and if there’s a charge, but figured I’d ask in case anyone from Spooky could chime in and provide any special instructions and address.
Thanks
Quoted from zermeno68:Can’t speak of this, but will only say that they did not charge me for shipping. Unless you’re looking for Spooky to do the work for you is what your wanting.. I did not ask.
Yes, just figured if mine isn’t assembled that it would just be easier for them to install the black one vs. the steel one if they have it beforehand and they have to install one anyway.
Quoted from pinthewin:Is anyone still selling decals for the pop bumper and targets / drop targets for this game? The game looks incomplete without them.
Attention to details go a LONG way, the subtle multi-color sparkle in the powder coat is perfect example. I'm surprised Spooky sprung for that and at the same time overlooked such an inexpensive, flourish that would been a nice finishing touch on this game.
This is who I got mine from, see thread below, and they are great. He posted 7 days ago that he’s currently out of stock, but I’m sure he’ll make more as he’s been selling them a while:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tna-decals-sizing-help-required#post-4083112
Quoted from beltking:Matching ce shooter housing.
Any chance you could post some pics after installed?
Thanks
Quoted from beltking:I will just been busy with work haven’t installed.
Thanks so much
Had mine supposed to be delivered Monday but there was significant damage all around and the machine got hit\damaged.
For those that had to refuse delivery, any rough idea on how long it took to get a replacement? Also, did they just fix the broken\damaged one or send a new machine? Hoping for the latter as even though decals can be replaced, who know what happened to the insides when the forks hit this box.
Congrats to those who have theirs and got their shipping notifications.
Hope everyone has a safe holiday.
45904FFA-F13D-486D-BCE2-A0EA437FB26E (resized).jpegD4794A50-F969-475D-9BB3-C5B61F474543 (resized).jpegD4E4D900-C0B1-46A8-9BDB-7A4341172EDA (resized).jpegGot mine yesterday and finally set it up today. Everything seems to be working with only 1 issue, the dreaded shooter lane\ramp eject issue. I think mine is due to the fork entrance and those forks should be straight and pointed on the playfield but mine look like they are slightly bent up and the ball constantly hits it, I would say 4 out of 5 times it rejects or rattles. Overall I am happy I haven’t had any other issues and hope that trend continues and will be calling my buddy AJ tomorrow. From reading the threads, looks like I have the updated ramp (1st pic) as my screw holes are very close to the fork tips vs. original and earlier CE ones (2nd and 3rd pics). I took a slow mo video and you can clearly see it hits one of the forks every time, no matter how I adjust my playfield or shooter rod.
Will be posting this in the other TNA thread as well, just in case.
Appreciate any help if there is a simple fix.
1904F3B8-53AE-49DA-B8BA-4A853C1A168E (resized).jpegD098300B-827D-4DCC-9012-E80823296EA7 (resized).jpeg4B54C010-43AF-4FAB-90EB-3B6355F26FEB (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Pinkitten:That’s a bummer that the tips of the fork are so close to the screw. There is very little to work with. With the original fork, I have unscrewed them, bent the tips downward a bit and reinstalled. I was getting similar launches on my WOZ. Bent the fork tips and problem solved. Can you try to bend yours at all?
Yeah it happens, that’s pinball I guess. I might be able to, but before I mess up anything, I’ll see what Spooky tech support recommends.
Quoted from turbo2nr:No way the ball hits the screws or the fork tips man.
You do realize the ball is round, right?
Uh ok, I took a video and as soon as it gets to the tips, it immediately rattles against the sides and does it whether I manually plunge or auto plunge. You can see the tips are bent up vs. the other peoples pics.
Thanks for the help.
Quoted from turbo2nr:Obviously, your issue is the shooter rod position in relation to the ball. Not the ramp or screws or ??
See pic.
So, loosen the shooter housing and then lower playfield back down.
Open coindoor and use hand inside cabinet to move shooter housing to center on the ball.
Keep in mind the playfield can shift side-to-side on the Two hangers that rest on the lockbar receiver.
For some of my games, I add something to push or hold those hangers in a tight position left or right.
I just drop in a screw on One side or the other to fill space, forcing the playfield to stay in a certain position.
Scotty
[quoted image]
Scotty, thank you for posting some suggestions vs. just saying I am wrong with my guess. I never claimed to be an expert or now for sure and just posted what was going on and what it looked like based on the behavior of the ball from my slo mo video. I fully restored a Funhouse and had rattle issues with the shooter and yes, that was due to improper shooter rod alignment AND the exit ramp needed to be adjusted.
I reached out to AJ and he said he agreed that the fork tips were bent up slightly as well as the alignment was off and didn’t match one he was currently working that was shooting perfectly. He did say that could be causing the issues. He sent me some pics so I could compare and adjust accordingly as well as bend down the forks to the original position. So did all that and it helped a little, but still having rattle issues and ball jumping issues, so passed that info onto AJ, but it was late so we’ll continue to work on this and I have no worries that this will be fixed.
Regarding adjusting the shooter rod, I’m attaching some pics of how my ball sits against the plunger tip and it looks dead on center to me, but my eyes aren’t what they used to be. But the rattle and random jumping is happening on both the auto plunge and doing it manually, so that lead me to believe it was not the shooter rod alignment since the auto plunge mech is separate. However I just tried adjusting the shooter rod and it isn’t like the old Williams, meaning there is hardly any adjustment. A little to the left and right and barely any movement up and down, but again from the pics I attached originally, it looked centered? Sometimes when it plunges, it goes straight and as soon as it hits the ramp, it veers and hits the rails and rattles and other times it will hit the rail before it gets to the ramp, it’s just not consistent and maybe it’s all 3 and a perfect storm. I do realize even the slightest adjustment can cause a major difference.
The playfield can shift to the left\right, but I tried in both positions and no difference in terms of making more successful shots. I took some pics, but don’t see the point in attaching these.
Anyway, I appreciate and all help.
092D98D7-A0AC-4260-98E2-B5CFFD2D3826 (resized).jpegCDC6CCDD-B513-4F5B-9882-6C6157BA1CCB (resized).jpegTheNoTrashCougar Hey Scott, from your (the creator\designer’s) vision how sensitive should the reactor sling\switches be? My lower slings are very sensitive, just the slightest touch, but the top ones take a decent bounce to activate and the leaf switch isn’t pushed against the rubbers. Was just curious if the top reactor ones are purposely not set that sensitive to make it more challenging?
I know I can adjust to whatever, but I do prefer to play the game as originally intended\designed and who better to ask
Congrats again, truly a masterpiece game.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:The slings should be pretty sensitive, but should not rapid fire when a ball hits it. Basically, just make them all as sensitive as you can without them machine gunning and just overheating your reactor immediately. That is not intended and also not fun. Keep in mind too, if they are not sensitive enough, it will actually make advancing the reactor harder as these also act as score switches. I am going to release a beta code soon to help prevent machine gunning of the slings in the core so people get get a bit crazier with the sensitivity adjustments. I hope that answered your question. Thank you so much for the props on the game, it truly is my love letter to pinball and still my favorite overall pinball machine.
--Scott
Thanks Scott, you always go above and beyond to not only help, but to continue to enhance your amazing game.
Safe and Happy Holidays to you and yours as well as everyone else.
Quoted from crwjumper:I’m getting that hum from the left flipper too. But it doesn’t bother me.
Same here but only when both left flippers (top and bottom) are engaged.
Curious if everyone has this (original and CE machines).
TheNoTrashCougar Hey Scott, besides replacing the trough onto IDC connectors with Trifurcon pins and connectors, is there anything else you’d recommend for helping bulletproof TNA?
Thanks
Quoted from namyzzo:One for Power Distribution Filter Board
<use with CAUTION>[quoted image]
Thanks for not only creating these but sharing them.
Anxiously awaiting the next ones.
Greetings everyone, been playing my TNA CE and had a quick question.
For those that have had a TNA for a while or one with a lot of plays, how has the Bader playfield held up overall?
I’m debating if I should get a spare playfield while I can or if it’s even needed? I’m not concerned about dimpling or the scoop areas, but just in general. I did what a lot of others did and surrounded the main scoop with Mylar, but now thinking I can remove the piece on the front? Just curious what everyone’s experience has been.
Thanks for the help and input.
Now gotta save up for my next Spooky pin.
Quoted from namyzzo:Heres my go at SW-16 (#3). It's really hard to draw out all the "Loopdaloops" that is done when the wire is daisy chained (black wire mainly). Also really hard to draw this with the components laid out how it is actually under there and still be big enough to read. So this drawing looks pretty basic but it may help understand a little about whats going on under there..
(I did notice in the official manual that they referred to a "brown" wire and some that are "striped".. Wonder if this is for the OG version or a supplier might have changed?.. It appears brown = RED on mine but none are striped".)
It's a bummer I cannot delete / edit these posts. I usually find something that needs changed/deleted after I look at it a day or so later.
As always - use with <CAUTION>[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you again for all the work you are doing with these. I’d happily pay if you ever decided to create a printed manual as the organization and detail you showed in that one pic of One Note, is impressive.
Just wanted to give a big shoutout to Spooky’s technical support and specifically AJ.
He helped me get all of my concerns\issues resolved with my CE.
This is my first Spooky and like some others, I also feel their QC needs some work and is extremely important, but they didn’t hesitate to help me both via email and on the phone and that type of service, while it doesn’t excuse the QC, is extremely important and some other manufacturers could learn from this.
Anyway, while it wasn’t fun not being able to play for a week or so after I got it, (felt like a kid at Christmas with a new toy with no batteries) now that it’s working as it should, I can say it’s truly a unique and one of a kind experience and Scott definitely created something special and I’m just happy that I and others can experience it thanks to Scott and Spooky.
Hang in there everyone who is still working to get your issues resolved, don’t give up and sell, like I actually considered, as once everything is working, it truly is an amazing game and addition to any collection.
Quoted from supermoot:Is there a service outlet in the new run? I just saw it on the schematics. Awesome! We are still happily routing 215!
My CE does
24FB9757-259B-4586-AD63-D04150402406 (resized).jpegQuoted from namyzzo:I got yah.. 10-4
Mines working good - so no tinkering with that for now. But, maybe someday. I seen a few "?errors?" appear on one boot-up - but I haven't checked lately.[quoted image]
I’d be curious to what they mean or what it’s doing. Mine shows the first Red one and the Yellow one, but not the 2nd Red one, and haven’t had any issues at all with gameplay linked to the software.
I know I’ve tinkered with a Raspberry Pi and seen warning messages like this and didn’t have any issues with the programs I was using.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Hey everyone,
I would not worry about those errors, they are just things that were disabled in the Linux image most likely, but that stuff is beyond my level of expertise.
What is not beyond my expertise though is creating a new Beta version of the TNA code. Please see the changelog below and if you feel like giving it a test, please do. If you encounter any crashes or weird behavior, please reach out to me and let me know what you are seeing. A log file also helps me greatly if you get any crashes. This should solve the issue with the death loop that a couple machines were getting into when they lost an SW-16 board.
This obviously works on both the OG and CE version of the game.
##########################################################
v1.5.1b1 - 01/20/2023 - Scott Danesi
## Bugs Fixed ##
- Fixed issue that upon certain opto failures would cause the game to boot loop
- Added left sling to burn in test
- Fixed issue with ballsearch when entering Service Mode
## Features Added / Modifications ##
- Added software switch debounce for additional reliability when switches get flaky
- Added new feature called "Last Ball Overtake" that will fire the knocker when any player of a
non-co-op multiplayer game passes the leader on the last ball of the game.
## Download Link ##
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ln8Hja7rSSpJ4EO8kZkg-4WMQS9JY3h3/view?usp=share_link
##########################################################
--Scott
Thanks TheNoTrashCougar for always continuing to post, support and further enhance\upgrade your game.
Quick question, I heard on one of joelbob older streams that suggested to you a potential additional mode called something like unlimited ball mode where the player keeps playing until they destroy reactor 9 and then you can see how fast you can beat the last reactor in both ball count, time and final score minus extra annihilation bonuses like the standard with remaining balls left (even specific leaderboards for these counts\time\score) for those of us who aren’t quite at that top level to do it in the standard 3 balls, have you ever considered it? I have no clue how difficult that would be to add\code and\or if that idea is just goes too much against your vision of your game?
I know I can just do co op by myself and heck even change the ball count per game to to 9, but then that would give me an annihilation bonus for each remaining ball whereas if there was a specific mode, it could forgo that bonus and also be easy to select.
Anyway, just curious as I thought it sounded like a cool idea.
Thanks again for all you do.
Quoted from vikeking27:Nice work! You’ll be happy you did, I never get tired of it. Totally different from anything else I’ve played.
I couldn’t agree more. I am limited on space so I like to have a variety of machine styles vs. just different themes and similar flow like mode mode mode mini wizard mode, etc. etc. Totally not saying having multiple games like that is bad, and if space and money were not a concern, I definitely would.
Got my new shooter rod from Pinball Shark, and IMO, looks like it was made for TNA and also changed the start button LED to keep with the purple theme.
For those that upgraded to the IPS panel, is it worth it or is it too clean now? I know Scott did the grainy effect on purpose to resemble how things were in the 80’s and would hate to lose that since I love it and grew up in the 80’s. All I am trying to do is get the black background to look more black as at the angle when playing makes it look grayer, if that makes sense? I already adjusted the screen brightness and contrast and turned on Gamma and while it helps, I’d like a little more. When I shift my line of sight down, it looks perfect, it’s just the angle it’s at when playing. Only other concern with IPS is long term reliability as I had an IPS monitor, top of the line about 7 years ago and it began developing ghosting images.
Thanks for any help and input.
5FE38675-7B7A-48FF-9C35-F0852F732C86 (resized).jpeg6A962225-CBF4-4ABE-88D7-610076AF1BA7 (resized).jpegQuoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Thanks! I've had mine apart a couple times to see what it was so noisy and to try some SuperLube.
PSA - Be very careful removing and replacing the screws holding the topper on. The wood appears to be MDF or something similar and it is extremely easy to strip the holes. I've got one screw that is no longer doing much other than sitting in a big hole.
What’s worked for me in the past is either the toothpick or zip tie method. Take either one, stick some in the hole and tighten screw, trim any excess. It’s not perfect, but it’s better than nothing (or stripped screw) at all.
Just in case anyone is looking or on the fence and thinking of purchasing a TNA CE, I have mine listed :
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/153164
Only have so much space and family voted.
I know my ads are very detailed, but I wanted to make sure to list out everything I had to fix\adjust and the only remaining small blemishes are cosmetic on the decals, which Spooky sent me a replacement set that the buyer can install if they want as well as a new backglass still in the box. It will come with extras as well as I did the subwoofer box upgrade per Scott’s instructions on his site (adding a spacer and sealing with clear silicone).
I’d consider trades on my wishlist and +/- cash depending which title.
Take care everyone and stay safe.
Quoted from namyzzo:Trust me - Iv'e spent hours researching both sites. Scott is awesome, extremely helpful and usually replies within hours. AJ at Sp00ky is generally nice to talk to.
I bought mine from Sp00ky and since I'm a n00b3 to pinball, I guess maybe naively expected them to be the portal to support it properly - not Scott or the other individuals involved in its creation.
Scott's site has the best info and Sp00ky has a "manual" - but theres no "One Stop Shop" for me. I created the parts list/schematics to help support this awesome game and save others time. Once you dig into it you may see some real common parts used by other manufacturers - and some custom parts. I am amazed to learn at how much Scott has really designed himself and all his other creations.
Back to the point of parts. How fast do you need answers and replacement parts. Are you a home user or someone trying to make a living off these machines. If the Greys come and take the designer back to their home planet, the government flags TNA internet searches due to possible terrorist activity or Spooky closes up shop = Who Ya Gonna Call..?.. (sorry, lol)..
Some background on my journey. Probably one of my latest and stupidest quests was getting info about the RED rotating beacon topper (I must have OCD). Spent hours/days trying to find information about this online. Sp00ky doesn't really give out part numbers - I asked several times for it. Their receipts will not really show anything useful in terms of cataloging the information.. (I get that possibly they want to keep info secret, don't have man power to handle these cry-baby requests or maybe have other future intentions). Anyhoo - Several weeks in trying - and I finally got a spare beacon from Spooky. .. Moving on...
Try and find the exact Red Beacon Topper replacement = when Spooky wont reply, can't be found on PBL, Marco doesn't list it, theres no discerning manufacturer markings on the device and other sites dont even have a "Spooky" subcategory... I'll wait... ..Standing by...
There is a CRAP-TON that you will find doing internet searches - but trying to find the exact one was a biatch'... Thankfully, for some reason - I did a search using the name I seen on the coindoor - of all places. Right near the coin slot it said "Suzo Happ".. Who would have thought.!!.. I had never heard or seen anything about this company in all my internet searches.. But sure enough there it was... https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/95-0115-10I
Think everything else will be easy to find?. Surely Stern/Williams would have used it before? = try finding a replacement or information about the 2 little "daughter" boards that attach to the lower PD-16 Driver Board... again, I'll wait.. ..
PBL = these guys are awesome. However they currently cannot supply it.
Sp00ky = 2.5 weeks and still waiting for an invoice..
Scott = don't want to bother him. Not an urgent need. I have nothing but time and could probably e-mail Scott daily asking about parts - but I realize that he has a life and is working on bigger projects.
(..just a side note.. I maintain/add parts and assemblies on an automotive based web site as well as maintain a separate internal database with BOM and cross-reference info for the local store front-and so-on,etc... Trying to catalog TNA is just me having fun.. Cant play pinball all the time - lol. keep tinkering and maybe I'll come up with a complete manual in a single .pdf file thats worthy of Scotts website someday..)
I am truly thankful for all you’ve done putting this together, the pinball companies should hire you as by far the most comprehensive collection of support for this machine.
Thank you
Quoted from Lateralus:What screws are used to remove that red cover on the beacon? I can't tell what those are
From the Happ site:
T-10 Torx tamperproof screws used to retain dome for added security.
Quoted from FalconDriver:You guys know if any CEs are still available out there and they only available through Spooky direct?
Still available from Spooky, think last rumor was they sold about 200, but just a guess:
http://shop.spookypinball.com/tna-2-0-initial-payment-2000-p145.php
Then you can look at the market on Pinside if anyone has a used one available:
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/total-nuclear-annihilation-20/market
Quoted from Kolk1:Interesting.. got any pics or a video of this working? This is the first I’m hearing about this.
Also curious and would like to see pics or video demo.
Thanks
Quoted from Kolk1:I know the topper is a #89 bulb, but has anybody replaced it with a very bright led? I can find tons of them, just curious if there was one that was known to be way brighter than what we have now. Thanks.
This is the one I used and was previously posted here a while back that fits without having to do any modifications:
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Tail Brake Lights, Brilliant Red
Quoted from tedwasright:Hey everyone. Just put my order in on Friday. Totally psyched!!
Does anyone know where I can get the black and yellow decals for the flippers?
Congrats, this is where I got mine:
https://www.ulekstore.com/Nuclear_Meltdown_Pinball_Flipper_Bat_Topper_MOD_p/tna_flippermod.htm
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Probably just slight things. Nothing crazy.
--Scott
Please consider an unlimited ball run mode that’s selectable like the co op or team modes. Then have it show your Annihilation time and how many balls as a separate leaderboard?
I know I could manually just change the settings to make it 10 balls and do co op, but would be neat to compete against others as well as track progression.
Quoted from FatPanda:Just had a weird, but not bad thing happen this morning. Was playing like normal and had Reactor 2 ready to qualify with Mystery. Hit the scoop and the game "glitched." I don't think it gave me the mystery, but when it started the reactor song, I got a song that I never heard before? Was a pleasant surprise.
In subsequent games, I got the normal Reactor 2 song, so it was probably just a one-off thing?
Pretty sure that was the additional song Scott put in on the latest code that plays when you max out your reactor value and then start the reactor.
Quoted from namyzzo:.. Thank you!
The OG:
I "think" =
The small SBC computer is the same, although the manf had a shortage and a newer revision with a different chipset was substituted at some point. The coindoor had some differences at least on the face of the door, the power distribution board was 2 pieces instead of the new 1pc design. Possible different wire connectors types in some areas (add on speaker kit to name one), I think the sw-16 board had an earlier revision as well. The 2 digit display had some revision or 2. No internal 120v "service" outlet. Another earlier wire chart I seen might have indicated the use of a few different colored wires - but I cannot confirm this yet.!
I think there is a few other small things - but can't remember right now. To be safe = always check your specs before ordering parts.
(I would love to add an "addendum" to the manual with these possible differences seen on the OG.)
(one example below)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Your work on your manual is truly remarkable.
I have an OG TNA, so if you ever want to get together in the future like a video chat or need pics, etc. to make that addendum a reality, just let me know as I thought I knew a lot and was a top TNA fan, but I don’t hold a candle to you LOL
Thanks for all you do compiling this information.
Quoted from namyzzo:That would be GREAT.!.. The internet just doesn't show enough pictures of the OG for me to feel comfortable enough to put in in a manual..
Hopefully I can get this ce manual finished up soon - and I will get with you..
Awesome!.. Thank you for the help - I will get with you hopefully soon and we can get it going!
Sounds like a plan and looking forward to it and eventually going to Kinkos and getting a proper manual printed
Well family voted (only have so much space) and listed my original run TNA in case anyone is interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/160027
It’s been a heck of a ride, a super fun game, and enjoyed every minute of it.
Thanks for any and all help.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Especially with the latest Beta Code on tnapinball.com....... Don't worry it is very stable and almost ready for release, I am just going to add a few visual updates to it before I stamp this version with a production code number.
I probably mentioned this new feature a while back, but I made a new feature in this code called "Last Ball Overtake". This feature will fire the knocker 2 times when any player overtakes the leader on the last ball. This is super cool and can happen more than once per game.
Enjoy!
--Scott
Is there still a possibility that you might add a speed run challenge mode in the future where you get unlimited balls to see how fast you can destroy 9 reactors? Thinking it would maybe have a separate high score table showing time and number of balls. I know you can accomplish something similar by just increasing ball count and doing co op, but having a separate selectable challenge mode might be fun to compare times and ball count.
Only asking as joelbob originally pitched the idea years ago and mentioned again last night during his stream and think it would be icing on the cake.
Thanks for all you do for the pinball community.
Quoted from delt31:Also what is the best LED people are using to really light up that red dome?
If you’re talking about the beacon (siren type light) on top of back box, below is what seemed to be the popular recommendation by a lot of others and what I used, it brightens it up a lot:
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