how quick do spooky build?
I'm in no rush as have no space at the moment.
Quoted from bitpatrol:
I wonder if the design of this game lends itself better to having many versions of code offering up a broader range of games compared to other designs? For example, adding a feature that causes the reactor to start 'leaking' would involve just having leds programmed to flash different color timed sequences etc. I think the lack of ramps and toys, and relying on lights, color, sounds, targets, shots, time make it a better generic platform for custom code forks, but not sure.
Also, having unique call-outs that rarely repeat themselves, like sounds song samples would be cool, as I find call-outs can get repetitive. Having 'organic' callouts with lots of cheap onboar memory to spare, and lots of license free sounds/music can make it more interesting than repeating call-outs... Same with light sequences, having randomness in the light patterns can make it more interesting over time, I would think. Most games have yet to take full advantage of the the ability to program LEDs and change their colors in new ways not possible in the past.
cake and eat it ?
I don't have any 5x20mm fuses but I'd like to get some as spares. Is there a fuse list?
upgraded to 1.2.0 no issues. haven't played co-op mode yet, need to find some friends first LOL
Quoted from hisokajp:
Something is not aligned quite right, the top bar does not go into the lockdown mech straight, i have already peeled off the decal from the top left corner of the front of the cabinet trying to wiggle thing around. I am not sure if something is bent a little or if the lockdown mech is a little sideway/too low?
I will have to spend some time checking alignment and positioning. Maybe need to move the lockdown mech a little higher?
I have to realign the flipper bats too, little high with a hop but that is easy to fix Those brand new rubbers sure are grippy fresh outta the box! Can't stop playing the game to take time to try and fix it
I have a similar problem I think but the reason is that the play field is very tight on the left hand side and needs help to slot in properly. Once this is done the lock bar is fine.
Quoted from audihere:
Finally spent a substantial amount of time to figure out why my lockdown bar is so insanely tight!! Both adjustment screws have been all the way up since day one but there's times when I almost can't get the game open or buttoned back up. Started to worry me.
I compared the lockdown mechanism mounting position to other games and measured lockdown bar with calipers to compare to other lockdown bars. Everything seemed to check out.
It was pretty apparent that the lock slide was hitting too low on the chamfered hooks to engage.
When the pf is in the down position the pf hangers hit the lockdown bar's two 90deg bent tabs and hold the lockdown bar way too high to engage. I ground off between 1/16" and 1/8" on these tabs where they come into contact with the pf hangers. I also ground the two chamfers a little larger. I moved the beer tape up against the two tabs so it wouldn't press up so much on the lockdown bar being on the bend, and that's also where it was located on my other bars.
Now, everything is working as it should. Even screwed the two lockdown mechanism adjustment screws down a tiny bit to fine tune the tightness on the lockdown bar in the closed position.
I have the same issue - is the pic the after from the grinding? can you share a pic of where and what you ground?
ive found you have to push the playfield down to hook it in right...
spookycharlie you should check what you are doing here as its not 100%
Quoted from audihere:
I installed a ColorDMD spec LCD panel in my TNA today. Wow, what a difference! Turns out the stock HDMI to LVDS converter board used on TNA can be reprogrammed with a 1920x1080 firmware file using something like this https://tinyurl.com/y7q6jx36 or you can just buy one of these https://tinyurl.com/y7l6m9yy specifically matched to your HD panel such as one like this https://tinyurl.com/ydel6ahz
Major improvement for the contrast and viewing angle. Pinks and greens look amazing too!
And in typical ColorDMD fashion, first game, I had my best game yet with 5 reactors destroyed!
will that screen need anything to mount it?
Quoted from herg:
You're welcome. I'm glad it is useful for you. I'm curious about how many others have printed. My own printer is going to be quite busy for a while.
i don't have a printer (yet but a local company i contacted would print both for £30.
Now all I need is the rest of the speaker kit but KT has gone silent!
I did the screen update and its worth it for sure. but you don't need to unplug the cable from the original screen and I recommend you leave it as its scary as hell to disconnect it. The driver board comes with a new and right cable to plug in. Swap the screen, swap the driver board (leave the original buttons they are they same). Hardest part was putting on new black tape round the screen straight! You then have to calibrate the colour, contrast, brightness.
I agree with the scoring above for sure although I think the shaker deserves 5/5!
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Well the package from Pinball life arrived on Saturday, and I went over the top and ordered 4 powerballs. Felt pretty silly after placing the order, as the 4 balls ran me $200+ plus shipping. But the thought of adding one, or all of them, to my TNA was enticing as hell.
Swapped out the steel balls & threw all four powerballs in my game. Then banged out a bunch of games. Holy crap! Talk about ball action. Makes an already fast game even crazier. The powerballs are lighter, so they float & speed all over the playfield. With all of that action, there were times they were REALLY getting airborn & smashing into the playfield glass. That was a little nerve-racking, but it sure was a lot of fun.
Will all four stay in my machine? Well they're staying in there for now. I need to play some more games to decide, but I think the leading viewpoint of just one powerball is probably the way to go. It's pretty crazy with all four in there. It changes the physics of the skill shot plunge for sure. And it might be more exciting/mysterious for players when just that single powerball pops into the shooter lane. I'll always have one powerball in there, that's for sure.
With that said, I shot some video if anyone is thinking about doing this. You can see how crazy it gets during multiball. My game is setup all standard, 6.5 degree pitch, etc. Enjoy!
» YouTube video
it definitely feels production is much quicker for the second hundred machines than for the first 100 machines.
swapped the power supply to the quiet one and man what a difference. For home use its a must do.
Quoted from herg:
I ran into one small issue. The retaining bumps on the sides are offset, so one of them didn't line up. I clipped it off, and is working great now. Finally, a beacon that is bright enough.
do your neighbours think you now have a reactor in your basement?
(yes I have ordered one also!)
if we are talking code updates and I'm pretty sure that its bug fixes only now (and thats fine as the game is epic) then I'd really like a streamers mode that puts the scores on the LCD so I can save having to setup a camera to point at the LCD displays, yes they are cool but getting all 4 of them on camera for a tournament is really hard.
This was the game just sitting - when it does it in play mode it fires more balls onto the playfield.
What do I need to adjust? nothing looks out of the ordinary.
Quoted from Aniraf:Great, where are the instructions? Where does the wire route? What is the best method for removing the side rails?
I’m sure I could figure it out by ripping this off the game, but for $120 I expected some instructions.
Take the screws out the side rails just come off. Align the roll so that it sits nicely and fills the letters. Replace the side rails. Feed the cable in at the back near the backbox. Stick the power adaptor inside the cabinet away from the amplifier and other cables. Boom. job done.
Quoted from KingPinGames:
did you recently update the code? if so, check the polarity of the 5v dc and ground plug that goes to the trough optos. it is possible that you need to flip the connector over to get the polarity right
thanks for replying - no code been running since Scott posted it, but I'll check that anyway. Its been doing it on and off for a while.
Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like?
Quoted from FatPanda:
Scott, there have been times where I make a big move, and can hear the tilt bob swinging and making contact, but don't get the warning at that moment, but after a time (time enough for it to settle), the tilt warning occurs. Is this something that happens via software where the game has delayed response to switch hits? I also notice that the slings sometimes don't fire immediately when the switch makes contact, but fires a split second after the ball has bounced off of it. A similar situation perhaps?
I've seen that tilt issue on three different machines here in the UK.
Quoted from Whysnow:
I think the "priority" of tilt is a bit delayed?
Not sure how to explain it, but test it with the door open and look at the time from actual switch closure till when the warning comes through.
not sure but in a tournament it really freaks people out, would be good to solve it.
Quoted from pinden007:
I think that depends. Some folks on here believe the issue is from game play and the ball banging into the posts - which very well may be. It's my belief that my issue was caused solely by faulty mylar (or whatever they used) around the posts. In the process of it pealing up, it lifted the paint around 1 post. That is the only post I plan on putting a washer on and that is just to protect against it eroding any more even though the ball never appears to roll over it.
Look to see if you have any mylar left around the posts or if it's in the process of pealing or is completely gone. That may determine if you should put anything down in it.
the issue is that Spooky had some problem with the play field - Charlie has stated that. It's not a mylar or play issue, its that the play-fields where not good enough. Spooky are stating to put these washers in so I encourage everyone to do that.
My washers arrived today thanks to Morgan at Spooky who knocked it our the park getting them to us here in the Uk.
But - I’ve PMed spookycharlie but I’m at a loss as to how these washers are going to help? Surely they just become the problem?
Also all the exposed star posts need them I’d have thought ?
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:
Found the logic issue on reactor 3 stalling out in the latest Beta code! I also think I tracked down the extra ball kicking out issue that only happens on a few machines.
New Beta code is up (v1.3.0.b10)! Just a friendly reminder, please keep in mind this beta version of the software is a work in progress and it may have some minor issues. If you install this and see any issues, please use the form at the bottom of the Beta Code Zone on my website to let me know what happened to the best of your knowledge. You can always revert back to the latest Production code if needed.
Thanks guys and gals!
Scott would that issue be present in the present shipping code (1.2.1? I think?) I’ve been having extra balls been shot out and have swaped and replaced lots of parts because of it! If so is there a workaround whilst we wait for full code?
Quoted from hisokajp:
Since you are still refining an already very good code, we had a suggestion pop up during our SCS. One of the player display died during the middle of the game and we couldn't fix it physically. We had to stop the game because at no point the player scores show on the LCD.
Would it be possible to have players scores be part of game info as you trap a ball as a backup for a display issue for example?
I’d emailed Scott a while ago and asked for an option to put the scores on the LCjdisplay - I do a lot of streaming and I do direct output from the PC to my screaming rig to avoid a camera pointing at the screen but on TNA I still need another camera for the score. So I plead again please add a config mode to out the score on the screen
All if you haven't got the washers on your star posts - DO THIS NOW. Pretty much all of the games made are going to suffer from this problem.
Quoted from eemichael83:
And there she sits! And it is sitting because holy crap is it heavy. After trying to get it up one step with a dolly, I decided it was better to have some professional movers come get it upstairs. So I'll have to wait another day or two before playing my first game
if you think thats heavy, don't buy a JJP LOL.
Quoted from FatPanda:
fwiw, I didn't see any gameplay differences after I put the silicon washers down. Im just as disappointed about the chipping artwork as anyone else but, they are under the posts, and with the washers, it covers it so that you dont notice it without having to point it out.
You can talk about spending the money and expecting perfection etc or the tired cargument, but the fact is that it doesn't affect the gameplay and there are no real blemishes with the star posts and washers installed. Inserts arent ghosting, cabinet isnt splitting, node boards arent blowing, etc. Put the washers in, put mylar around your scoop hole and you should be good.
I'm not going to to hesitate buying from spooky in the future because of this.
indeed I'm hoping that's good enough.
Quoted from epthegeek:
Did Stern come forward and explain the ghosting problem? Or what about the cabinet corners coming apart? Or what about JJP with their chipping clear? You have details on all of those things?
So Stern sent me a completely new populated playfield to replace my ghostbusters one. A friend had their cabinet replaced.
In my view the reason I want to know more is to be sure that the problem isn't going to get any worse. Eric- who are you working for these days?
Quoted from epthegeek:
I wasn't trying to make a point about what's right and what isn't. Merely pointing out that no pinball manufacturer comes forward with details in cases of defects.
Quoted from epthegeek:
Spooky isn't big enough to be able to absorb sending people populated playfields when all the parts on it are still fine. They're a small boutique company, with minuscule production numbers compared to something like Stern.
This is a maintenance bulletin about something you can do to prevent future issues with hardware; those are semi-common throughout pinball history. Not at all the same thing as a "why are your playfields ghosting" and the other major defects.
Of course they are!
I would like the information to be sure that the problem isn't going to get any worse. I don't think that's unreasonable.
If I had the playfield replaced with a populated one then I wouldn't care as the problem is solved.
Note I'm in discussion with Charlie at this time about sorting this issue out.
Quoted from f3honda4me:
Replacing balls, replacing rubber (actual rubber wears VERY quickly, something like titan rings lasts longer), fixing broken solder wires, replacing coils, etc are all maintenance items. I've had to do these on every pin I've owned, sometimes even in the first days of ownership (it happens). If a coil went bad within warranty period I'd probably contact the manufacturer or my distributor for a replacement. If I had an issue with a defective playfield and had to get a new PF, I'd expect to have to do the swap myself. Time consuming, but that is expected.
Sorry but I've heard it all now!
A home use pinball machine needing new rubbers with less than 500 plays on it? So those with games on location must change them every freaking week then!
How many folks have replaced a coil on a BNIB home use only pinball machine? I've bought 12 NIB games in the last year and a half and not had to do that to ANY game, nor have I replaced any rubbers!
Quoted from Whysnow:
I WISH I had a location that saw even 500 plays in a month for a game!!!!!!!!
That said, as a hobby operator with over 50 games I help maintain on route for almost 6 years now... ALL I repeat ALL manufacturers have issues.
The vast majority of Sterns we have purchased have had ghosting, split cabs, blown boards and split runners fresh when opened (some even came with major issue out of the box). Actually had to replace a bad coil on MET within a week. Had to replace a bad coil on GOTG early on.
JJP games have had chipping, broken parts, incorrectly wired switches.
Spooky games have had broken springs, loose nuts, and minor chipping under posts (after literally thousands of plays).
Guess what, spooky has been the best service and IME, the most minor issues. It really is not even a comparison. I can try to dig up some of the pf issues for other manufacturers if I get the time... they aint pretty.
The fact that they do so with such a small budget and great attitude is amazing and a big part of the reason I like to support them.
why would you have a game on location that didn't?
I'm sure they all have problems, but my experience with Spooky vs the others doesn't align to yours.
I had that problem also Kevin, Spooky sent me new trough onto boards and that fixed it.
On another topic, I keep getting the odd drop target error message but the drops seem to work ok - any ideas?
Hey folks -
Lost lower coils, both lower flippers and trough kick out and slings - suspect a fuse but wanted to ask what else to look for?
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