9-7-2022 = I got on the list. Not sure what "#" yet. Can't Wait.!!

Whatever name Scott decides is ok with me <bows head and steps back slowly>..
That being said, (IMHO) = 2.0 is ok with me. Easy and quick to say. To me it doesn't mean better or worse than original. It's a good designation for the "re-run" date indication and possible part/component changes (power supply, connectors, newer revision this and that..etc)..Helpful should one be talking about parts or making a revised parts or repair manual)..
TNA = "2017 original", 1st release
TNA 2.0 = "2022", 2nd release
TNA 3.0 = "202?" , 3rd release
TNA Chernobyl = "20??",
TNA Fukushima = "20??",
^>Welcome to the Future<^

...Im pumped.!! ..Placed my order 9-7-22.. TNA "rerun, black?? 2.0".. It will be my first "NEW" pinball machine purchase.. Probably the last new one I buy $$..lol..$$..
.. kidding aside - I think the pricing was on target.. comparing 2017 "base" model price plus the add ons required at the time to make it comparable to TNA 2.0, parts/pricing inflation, Sp00kys builders/techs, phone and email support to listen to me beg..LOL..
(heck, Iv'e seen used ones posted/selling for just a few "dollars" less..)

...my 2cents worth..

I have no clue how long it takes for them to get one out or a "batch". How has the other models shipped - time wise?

Just taking a wild guess - maybe I'll see mine in late January?. Order placed 9-7-2022. Supposedly game #138. I was told 4-6mos approx for this run.

I ordered a Spooky hoodie to keep me warm while waited.. LOL.. Received it already

Spooky just posted the run is about to start soon!..

Indiana here. Had to pay $489.65 in taxes so far (no butter). Not sure how much shipping/taxes will be yet (#138). Have not received the "butter" email as of yet, but will pass on that option.

By chance are you #223? (I haven't heard how many units have been sold yet)..anyone?

Sale opened 9-1-2022

I paid the $2k on 9-7-2022. Paid the rest on 9-12-2022 (no butter). Still waiting on the E-mail with shipping cost & estimated shipping date.
I'm supposedly #138

..still waiting for my Fang club kit as well. (but I will gladly wait for the game and kit to come, I don't want to make any waves and get sent to the Back of the Line.. )

Speak of the Devil..

#138 and just got my "Butter/No Butter", where to ship to E-mail, and that it should hit the assembly line soon..

How about the computer itself - I was looking awhile back and thought it might be one of the "UP" boards being used?.
Also, looking at these 2 pics - did they relocate the computer to a separate mount for any reason?.. ( ..not sure where the older pic came from - or if it was like this for the 1st versions of TNA)

..just curious .. I haven't seen any of the internals up close and personal yet.. Still waiting on mine
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I am hoping so as well

Here's my "overall" Sp00ky experience for reference: (CE# 138)

5-3-2022 = Joined the "Fang" Club.. (as 12-1-2022 I have yet to receive anything in the mail..)
9-7-2022 = Placed my order using the website & made the initial $2K down payment.
9-12-2022 = Requested via E-mail for total due. Paid remainder due the same day (w/tax) = $7,484.65.
9-12-2022 = ordered a Hoodie. Received it (Love it btw).

10-31-2022 = Sent an E-mail asking about approx production# they were on = "in the 30's"

11-3-2022 = Received the Butter/No Butter E-mail which also asked about the "Ship To" location.
11-7-2022 = Received a confirmation of the "No Butter" & shipping location.

12-1-2022 = ...as of yet - I have not received an invoice for the shipping amount/delivery date.

..Just posting for FYI.. Not rushing Spooky.. Would rather all the issues be corrected before receiving it.

#138 delivered!

(left Sp00ky on 12-5-2022 - delivered to Indiana by R&L on 12-6-2022.!!.. Super impressed.. A++ )

Backglass looks nice and vibrant to me. It can be hard to take a picture of - because the brightness of the digits and playfield lights.

Playing ok - but I have not level checked or done much pre-setup (the ball is hanging up on the lane switches "-man the wire hoops are tall", RAD targets kinda "stiff" or weak to react, kinda suprised at the noise/static coming through the speakers right now when idle - and it kinda "pops" when turning off - like my 1993 Gladiators..).

So far - I'm Lovin' it.!!.. When the kickers hit and the lighted triangle area kinda "flip/flops" = frkn AWESOME!..

...gotta go.. Pinball Time.!!

Just wanted to let others know - it may be a Merry Christmas for them as well.

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So - I had the issue and stopped playing long enough to check the level and rake of the playfield (it was level but the rake was only 5 degrees). I corrected and set to the suggested 6.5 deg listed in the online manual. Game play is faster now = A++.

However, there were still 2 hang ups. Once on the core "O" and once on the right hand bottom inlane switch. IMHO = the initial bend on the wire or height isn't correct on several of them. (see pictures). Some are taller than others, more rounded and protruding up a little too high. They should probably have been shorter or bent a little so the initial contact isn't like hitting a flat wall (if yah no what I mean..hard to describe.)..

On the "O" switch - the ball also kinda hit it from the side and wedged against the switch.

I also ran the Switch Test. Hit them all with my finger. The machine will give 2 sounds. One for depress and one for release of the switch. A couple of times on the left hand inlane switch = it didn't pop up properly and give the "released" sound.

>Shes a fresh machine = so I'll give her some time to "seat in".. If it continues to be a problem I will start tweaking the metal wire a little bit and see what happens. lpeters82
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Mine inspected by the same. lpeters82

Not really trying to bash anyone at Sp00ky or cry to much = but heres just a few other things I noticed in addition to my other posts (if I was too upset or even thought they could "do" something about it since its at my house now - I would call them)...

The coin box: The lid appears to have a slot in it = wonder why they didn't use that to keep the coin box and lid "centered" within the base of the cabinet. It can slide around..etc.. Also, the left hand short piece of wood is really loose. Either the screw is too short or it was overtightened and stripped the wood. I get that it can't be too long = but wonder why they didn't glue it or screw from the bottom up. (maybe by screwing it in you can remove / change width for other boxes or a bill mechanism or something.?)

(as much as I have the bass turned up = it will probably come loose soon )

The back box has 2 areas where they had to run screws from it into the sides = it would look better if they painted it black or something = just kinda stands out. (Especially when look over this thing with a "fine tooth comb" = you know,, like you spent 9k on it or something.. Haha)

When opening the backbox - the door will drag against the backglasses bottom ledge. When closing the door I either have to put a hand print on the glass and try to slide it up a tad - or use my fingernail to lift up on the bottom edge and then try and squeeze the door closed past my fingernail..

Last time I shut off the machine = a red light in the backbox stayed lit up for probably 15 mins or so. Not sure what was going on there.
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Awesome!.

Yes, I am having this occasionally on my CE model. Sometimes it wont catch the ball going in and it will roll out. Other times it may hang just up like your reference picture.

I have been busy tweaking the lane switches and the lower bumpers. The Danesi lock is on the "to do" list - but not sure what it will take to cure it as of yet.

How do my balls look..

No seriously. Just curious if anyone suggests a better ball to use. New CE machine with limited plays and the balls already have gouges in them. Sure theres dimples - but they also have "deepish" gouges that your fingernail will hang up on. Kinda straight line/gouges = so maybe from the auto plunger?

Kinda worried about them harming the playfield.

..is this just the way it is - or should I get something "better". Seen a few 1 1/16" on Marco - just not sure which if any to buy. Thoughts?

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..Was curious if you figured out yours yet?

After adjusting the table to proper slope - I still had hang ups on 2 of the switches. The ball was wedging between the metal switch wire and the nearby posts.

I lifted the playfield and loosened the 2 screws slightly - then rotated the switch bodies to get the metal wire more in the center of the groove/cutout towards the initial contact area where the ball hits it first. This was enough the prevent the ball from wedging.

Mine pops on startup. I have not performed any "official" adjustment procedure as of yet..

..bad pics.. see other post.!!

<2nd Post - uploaded wrong picture ..sorry>

Using my TNA-CE = I have been working on "schematics" - if you can call them that.. .. and a parts listing among other things. I am hoping to have everything uploaded in a ONENOTE format on my Microsoft OneDrive very soon.
(using Circuitmaker which can be set as a community project for those curious).

I have seen several posts saying TNA & TNA-CE = are the basically the same.. But, looking through various pics and knowing how companies like to substitute things = I decided to go down the rabbit hole. Several bits of information posted on websites - are outdated and many links are no longer working.

I am hoping to get the Power Filter Distribution block laid out this week. I shudder to think about trying to figure out the layout for the LED/Switch ribbon cables
Would really like to have a FUSE CHART as well (location, size/type) = but I really don't want "crack" open the fuse holders (scared of breaking the housings..etc). Dip switch settings chart, Coil wiring..etc

The official "manual" does have 3 pages worth looking at. I hope to have a schematic showing a little better the relationship between the Coils, mosfet locations and which board they reside on.

Digging this deep - I have noticed a few QC issues (most concerning to date was wondering why the internal 120v service outlet wasn't working = BAD crimp job/wrong size spade connector used for 2 twisted together wires. It had come out of the spade connector and was just floating inside the box). SHEESH.!.. (I was curious to see if the top outlet was "CPU" powered on and if the lower was always "HOT"..needless to say neither worked because of the unseated wire..BTW - both hot all the time).. Also - the ON/OFF switch had a cold solder joint on one of the legs = the solder was just holding the wires together - but not "binding" it to the leg.

If someone creates a new TNA repair/hardware thread or sticky for this section = I have many pics to contribute

So far, this is what I have. ( I caution EVERYONE = Use at your own peril. Mistakes happen).

<use with CAUTION>
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..Just noticed this sticker the other day

Maybe they got the memo too late - and already had the stickers made.. lol

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.

..So, being all up in the cabinet - I noticed another issue. Screw missing. There is an imprint from the head in the material - so I guess there was one in there at sometime. But I searched HI-and-LOW inside the cabinet = and I cannot find it yet

AJ is working on a few other things for me as well. (I hate that I have to "bother" someone about the issues, let alone experience the issue myself). From all these posts I see here - I don't know how they can keep up. I hope it's not normal for them - really hope they keep things moving smoothly for Scooby

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go ahead and send me some.

yah - I only got a few spare screws right now for my 93' Gladiators - But being under warranty and 9k into it = I think they can support it for awhile. Also got a stripped screw/wood in the top of the playfield - so the "c"ore bumper is flopping around like a noodle...

Yah - feel bad = but not my problem they wont use a low grade locking compound or something. or if they are using air/power tools and strip stuff out.. they need to know the issues going on.

If you really think paying 9k isn't enough to have a decent performing machine = thats cool.. to each his own.. I was thinking that way in the beginning - but after the other issues = my tune is changing a little..

Thanks again for this.

I had a friend who just started 3d printing try your design. They turned out pretty good using what material he had - (a little shiny). Probably not quite to specs as getting them direct from you.

I installed them the other day - they fit snugly - and made a world of difference - to me anyways. Used a black "paint" marker by itself and wasn't impressed - installing the plugs was the answer.. A++

Thank You!
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Curious to know if you resolved your issue - in particular = does yours still pop 3 times or so when powering on?

Ugh!..

Here are some new ones (switch1, knocker/shaker..etc) - and I updated some of the old ones as well so you may want to check them too. (The .jpg's sometimes have a few more extra tweaks than the .pdf's). Posting them here is an issue when I find a problem and need to correct or update something.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ObqfQeHLuyJLEe5PYVtv4vZuhRNixfBE?usp=sharing

use with CAUTION (I have seen a few discrepancies between mine and the official manual)

Only available in Right to Repair states..

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ouch.!

I have been trying to get some spare boards rounded up (..just incase).. However - I cannot find a PD-16 right now.. Currently PBL and Multimorphic are showing Out of Stock.!

I thought maybe Spooky was hoarding them for Scoob - but it might be using different stuff.. not sure...

Hopefully Sp00ky has one for you..

I didn't really see anyone else mention the popping noises on bootup - except yours. So I went down the rabbit hole and did this/that. Sent a video to AJ and he sent me a new amp to try.etc..
But, I just watched 2 other videos and they do it as well. I understand the sub thump from the old car audio days - but figured the other popping noises was something else. (Iv'e only heard my old '93 Gladiators start up and its all kinds of noisy but just figured it was because its old. lol.) Guess I should have watched the videos first - lol.

I'm guessing - it has something to do with the way the Upboard and other software initializes (out of my zone for now). Shutting the machine off makes a nice racket as well which is another set of issues.

(I know I should just "put the hood down" and play it) - but I got bored, so for the powering up noise I added a delay switch. It just plugs in between the amp and the barrel connector. Variable settings allow you to dial in when the power turns on the amp. It was only a few dollars and says it can handle 10amps. I still get the sub thump when it eventually powers on - but it's past the initialization and you don't hear the popping noises.

(References to the noise)

= at 21:54~22:12 timestamp

and

= at 20:50~21:03 timestamp

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Got around to using a video to capture the boot screen - it's so fast.!

Not sure what the warnings are all about - but shes been playing just fine..

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Interesting. Thanks for the heads up.

Yah - it doesn't bother me too much - now that I know it wasn't just mine doing it. When I first unboxed it with help from a friend we both kinda looked at each other when it made the multiple popping noises - just kinda wondering if it was "ok"..

I'll adjust the time delay down to something more reasonable - but will probably tinker with putting a different amp in there with a "soft power" on/off feature and see if it helps with the sub thump. Hopefully try and figure out how to quiet the shutdown noise as well.

(here is how it sounds when the FC-32 delay activates the amp after a complete bootup. Smooth - but still has sub thump,)

I had hang-ups on 3 switches - started out thinking I would bend them. I tweaked with it a little. Also was going to cut the length on one of them - but those are some strong wires. My diag cutters wouldn't touch it.!

Figured out - I just had to loosen the 2 screws slightly - and then twist the assembly so the wire was more in center of the slot or lane - or to a position to where a ball wouldn't wedge inbetween it and a post or something.

Another pinsider told me about these spacers to use. I bought a few - but haven't needed them as of yet. = https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0211-00

Awesome pinsider help on this one!

(..and now I know how to "hack" mine to make my score look better. )

I'm guessing this is another board manufactured by ?Anarchy? - It probably should be on their QC to catch this one. (whoever Anarchy is.. cant find much info on them).

not sure if Sp00ky has a burn in test where a person there would be able to confirm all digits were functioning properly to this level (but they should).

"imho"
Anarchy (minus 1 point)
Sp00ky (holding steady)

- but understand what your saying.

How did you do a factory reset?.. what are the steps.. just curious

Strange - they don't have a "set" place where they mount it or the shaker interface board. Guess everyones will be unique in that way

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I got yah.. 10-4

Mines working good - so no tinkering with that for now. But, maybe someday. I seen a few "?errors?" appear on one boot-up - but I haven't checked lately.

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Failing to create a swap file, cant find a related file/entry ??.. When it comes to "Linux/Python" = it's all gr33k to me.. I know about 3 command lines LOL ..

My Windows machine boots up fine as well = but take a look in the <Computer Management> / <Event Viewer> section = and there are typically alot of so called errors. So, I don't worry about them too much

I have a B+ Pi as well - loaded up Kali Linux on it after seeing it on Mr. Robot .. and thats about as far as I got.

Been trying to get the exact "UP-Board" model to tinker with it and the new TNA code release (-just curious to see what kind of sorcery is happening inside there) = but a month ago when searching for one they were all out of stock..

Who ordered the bowl of Spaghetti Soup..

(everytime I think I know where these wires go - I start doubting myself).. I don't know how Scott did all this, from layout/game play to PCB design = guys a Wizard or somethin' - I do believe Sorcery was involved..

Definetly check all the com cables as Scott advised = it's a tight fit near that piggyback board. It's nice Sp00ky ties everything up real good - but maybe too tight sometimes - maybe something you reseated moved another cable somehow.

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No guts no glory

Updated my CE to the 1.5.1b1 beta update. So far so good.!

At first I tried the USB dongle in the front of the cabinet with a 32gb stick = it said it backed up the settings and only took seconds. However, nothing was written to the USB stick and didn't update the code.

Used a smaller 4gb stick and inserted into the UP Board as advised on Scott's website = update began right away..

Rebooted and confirmed update applied... tested and then shut down.

Then inserted the smaller 4gb stick into the front usb dongle and rebooted. It backed up the settings again. Checked on a computer and the USB stick had everything there this time..
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Iv'e been tinkering with this the past few days as well. Searching Amazon you can find a few options (ABS or MDF) and there is a few that have some that have a recessed opening. But, I too was having a hard time figuring out what to get and if they would work with the OEM speaker

I am also changing the speaker - so it is throwing all kinds of issues my way..

On the TNA = the main hole size is only 8 11/16". The Bolt hole circular diameter is approx 9 1/4". The mesh material is definetly stretched tight enough that it is pressing against the woofers rubber surround.

The dimensions of the new woofer I have definetly wont work just dropping in like the oem speaker. Kicker Comp C 10" = the distance just to the outer edge of the foam surround is 9 1/8" (9 1/4" max) and the bolt hole pattern is 9 7/8" and 10 5/8" max od of the mount.

I bought bolts long enough to "possibly" mount the speaker from the outside/underside. >Still not sure which way I will go..

I haven't opened the sub chamber yet and actually pulled the speaker. But here is what I ordered for now to see what I can make work.

(they do sell 1/2" abs per 1qty - but I wanted the 3/4" - just incase I decide to get creative. Was kinda scared of splitting/cracking the MDF flavor since the id of the ring is only 9 1/8" and the bolt hole pattern of the stock speaker is 9 1/4"). I will post pics once I tear it open. Parts might be here Saturday.
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Your post got me interested to take a look at mine in that area. (FYI: Short plunge and the ball hits the top of the rh slingshot and then bounces to the left hand outer lane, full sweep and it hits the rh flipper.)

I am getting ring wear already as well. Hard to believe that the metal is flexing that much. Your rubber is more worn than mine - but my rivet looks like blind Bob was beating on it

Weeks ago I tried to order an "OEM" ring kit from Sp00ky but AJ advised they don't offer one. (WTF).. But he said if I have a problem with one in the warranty period - they would cover it. I ended up getting a clear ring kit from Pinball life and added in the colored flipper rubbers.
(for weeks I have been trying to get some spare parts from AJ with promises of getting an email to pay for them - but nothing. Maybe he thinks I am building machines to put out on the black market. Not sure. But I was waiting for an email before they even went on Christmas break, and again - I last had email exchanges with him on Monday = still no email..)

anyways - here are a few pics of mine for reference.

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Good tip..

I'll let you know what I figure out..

..thought I would share..

TNA playfield.!!

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Stick Around.!. There is a lot of great information here now and upcoming - and any input from your personal experience is bound to help someone else in the future.

Jokes aside, and seemingly helpful replies can often loose good intentions and translation in a text reply. We can all have a little "CHET" in us from time to time (as me and my friends used to call it - referencing Chet from Weird Science). I guess their called Richards and Karens these days.. LOL

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TNA CE stock subwoofer, subwoofer chamber and speaker spacer.

So, you may just want to remove the speaker and trim the material away, seal the box as Scott advised and reinstall (unless you can find 3/8" or less spacer and your box is mounted better than mine).

Sp00ky doesn't appear to use any "jigs" or specific locations when mounting the sub chamber and other items. My sub chamber is mounted all kinds of crooked in relation to the cabinet. The box is also mounted really close to the inside edge of the speaker. Due to the shaker and amp you cant really lower the box much to clear the spacer (yours may vary). The inside depth of the sub chamber is also an issue when selecting a spacer (3/8" thick spacer would probably be the max you would want to use with the GRS 10SW-4 oem speaker).

After opening the sub chamber and checking the speaker specs - I almost thought about just continuing to use it. But because I would have had to blanchard cut the spacer down to 3/8" thick, cut the bottom edge square to clear the box, purchase longer M4 bolts to work - I decided to continue installing the Kicker 10" from the underside - and deal with the consequences of having it "external".

I'll post a few pics after I get the amp and power supply installed. But, here are a few of the OEM parts and the new speaker installed.

(sorry for all the pics - easier to show than tell)

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SWEET.!!

Thank You for sharing.!!

(If Sp00ky would just release a proper manual - I could be playing more pinball)

I was dreading doing these

Hopefully Scott can share on his site without any issues. This is GOOD STUFF.!!

Can someone do a check for me? (I didn't think to do it before I installed the new amp & speaker).

Put it in demo mode and get some bass rockin to where you hear that "cone" / speaker sounding rattle. Then go to the underside and put your hands over the exhaust/air ports and see if it improves your sound. - just curious..

So doin the math - which is not my best subject .. It kind appears that it may be over ported.?. maybe not really the screen making the noise - but still probably hindering cone movement. Seems like the "vented" box design might be out of spec for the stock and the Kicker speaker.

I installed my Kicker compC 10", Boss 1100 watt mono amp and it rattled slightly more that the stock setup.

I didn't want to just glue wood over the ports incase my "theory" wasn't correct = so I installed plugs in the ports to get closer to the specs for a sealed box. SOUNDS SWEET!! - I will post a detailed setup soon. Not sure if I will install the plugs from the top side or just leave it. But I will probably add a little deflector or some dampener material inside the chamber to get closer to specs.

It appears that the stock speaker and the Kicker both call for a larger box if it is ported. According to the calculator - I believe - the box is too small to be ported.

anyone feel free to correct my math..etc

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K1CK A55 ..!!!

..and happy to see you are back..

Alright, - just tell me where to send the money metal-mods

I do like the purple myself. and the "top" design (the center radiation symbol on that one almost looks like a Sp00ky ghost head when the colors are changing in the video).. A++

FOLLOWING:

It's hard to tell from your pics. Are the only LEDS not working - controlled by the #2 board? - or are other LED's not working on the right hand side.

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When you boot up the system - do you see the score display board light up all the player fields during boot? or is player 2 the only one that stays lit during boot?

http://shop.spookypinball.com/playfields-c8.php

Scratch and dent playfields.. TNA, Sc00by..etc

Sweet.!. L00ks good too.!

Thanks for posting - I was curious how the stock 10"ish speaker would react. The specs I could find on the stock speaker looked like it should be sealed and an 8" ideally for the box size. I'm sure the frequency/tone changed by sealing it = but for the better (IMHO). I never got around to installing any deadener/sound redirect inside the box = as I am totally happy with the bass now and having no cone rattle.

The coinbox rattle is gone now (since I mounted my amp there). The actual base of the cabinet also introduced a little noise - but adding the leather strip and mounting the new power supply took care of that. The oem 12v/5v power supply also has it's own little noise - but I reduced that by putting a little felt in between it and the bottom of the cabinet.

Not getting sound from the left side on yours? Check the obvious wires at the amp/spring loaded clamps - but also check and reseat the 3.5mm cable at the LCD screen/output (early on mine was not seated properly and was getting a little noise from it).

I put together a longer video of what all I did if anyone is bored . You cant really hear the bass on a cellphone.

FYI: for anyone going down the route of sealing it up - If you have 2 caulking guns - double check what you got in there.. LOL.. I don't think my chamber box will ever come off again.

I uploaded alot of pics and schematics. Check em' out if you need another view..

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ObqfQeHLuyJLEe5PYVtv4vZuhRNixfBE?usp=share_link

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You may want to post a few pics to the fella's = something might stand out as being "off"..

But my TNA CE has diodes on all the flipper coils.

If you need more overall pics - go here = https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bQAhD410p-bdLgKuactArU3Ui6IX25Fa?usp=share_link
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For info on the parts I used to "upgrade", go here and they are listed there =

(other info/reference material)

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDwx_jIFCa6kT8_assE5CxZD6us?e=bz65H2

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ObqfQeHLuyJLEe5PYVtv4vZuhRNixfBE?usp=sharing

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/207#post-7368107

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Did TNA ever have a 12" speaker? - or is ipdb wrong?

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Mine was hanging up on the loweer inlane/outlane roller over switches because the ball would wedge between a post/bumper and the metal wire itself due to mis-alignment & wire height - I believe. I tinkered with trying to cut/bend the wire (-they are strong!). But all I had to do was loosen the screws on the bottom of the playfield and I could twist the switch/wire to align better within the "lane" and playfield slot.

On mine, the ball will hang-up on the RH Orbit rollover switch if it is moving slowly. I haven't tried to adjust this one yet - but may try a spacer suggested by another pinsider'. = https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0211-00&Category_Code=

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Here is a look at mine. No screws in that plate either. Mine is a super sloppy fit - due impart to the bushings being split. But it appears others are not really a tight fit either. (not sure, maybe this is intentional.)

So far mine is shooting pretty straight up the ramp. It appears that the "fork" is off-set and just one "branch" is hitting the ball first. Doesn't appear to be much adjusting that you can do - the pin, E-clip and the edge of the plastic bushing prevent most of the Left/Right adjustment that would be required.

Not sure if there is enough slop between the playfield screws and the metal holes to allow any tweaking of the whole asembly.

If I start to have an issue - maybe I'll slot the metal bracket holes a little and make some better bushings for the pin area.

short clip of mine operating =

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On the topic of parts - I have started my collection of spare/back up parts for various reasons. One of which is availability in the future (PBL has been a goto site - but even they couldn't get me a driver board and these 2 little custom "interconnect" boards - and Sp00ky is all about Sc00by so my requests are low on their list of things to do).

Finding part numbers to properly catalog - is an ongoing challenge. Sp00ky's "support" page has some info on other models - but it seems like they have less for the TNA. Kinda rude.. LOL..

..Thought I would share my current list as .jpg for anyone interested in a quick reference.

You can also go here for the complete info = https://1drv.ms/o/s!AoDwx_jIFCa6kUf7FehU33ymlQPj?e=A5Qyhy

If anyone has more info to add - please post it!.. everything helps!

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Trust me - Iv'e spent hours researching both sites. Scott is awesome, extremely helpful and usually replies within hours. AJ at Sp00ky is generally nice to talk to.

I bought mine from Sp00ky and since I'm a n00b3 to pinball, I guess maybe naively expected them to be the portal to support it properly - not Scott or the other individuals involved in its creation.

Scott's site has the best info and Sp00ky has a "manual" - but theres no "One Stop Shop" for me. I created the parts list/schematics to help support this awesome game and save others time. Once you dig into it you may see some real common parts used by other manufacturers - and some custom parts. I am amazed to learn at how much Scott has really designed himself and all his other creations.

Back to the point of parts. How fast do you need answers and replacement parts. Are you a home user or someone trying to make a living off these machines. If the Greys come and take the designer back to their home planet, the government flags TNA internet searches due to possible terrorist activity or Spooky closes up shop = Who Ya Gonna Call..?.. (sorry, lol)..

Some background on my journey. Probably one of my latest and stupidest quests was getting info about the RED rotating beacon topper (I must have OCD). Spent hours/days trying to find information about this online. Sp00ky doesn't really give out part numbers - I asked several times for it. Their receipts will not really show anything useful in terms of cataloging the information.. (I get that possibly they want to keep info secret, don't have man power to handle these cry-baby requests or maybe have other future intentions). Anyhoo - Several weeks in trying - and I finally got a spare beacon from Spooky. .. Moving on...

Try and find the exact Red Beacon Topper replacement = when Spooky wont reply, can't be found on PBL, Marco doesn't list it, theres no discerning manufacturer markings on the device and other sites dont even have a "Spooky" subcategory... I'll wait... ..Standing by...

There is a CRAP-TON that you will find doing internet searches - but trying to find the exact one was a biatch'... Thankfully, for some reason - I did a search using the name I seen on the coindoor - of all places. Right near the coin slot it said "Suzo Happ".. Who would have thought.!!.. I had never heard or seen anything about this company in all my internet searches.. But sure enough there it was... https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/95-0115-10I

Think everything else will be easy to find?. Surely Stern/Williams would have used it before? = try finding a replacement or information about the 2 little "daughter" boards that attach to the lower PD-16 Driver Board... again, I'll wait.. ..
PBL = these guys are awesome. However they currently cannot supply it.
Sp00ky = 2.5 weeks and still waiting for an invoice..
Scott = don't want to bother him. Not an urgent need. I have nothing but time and could probably e-mail Scott daily asking about parts - but I realize that he has a life and is working on bigger projects.

(..just a side note.. I maintain/add parts and assemblies on an automotive based web site as well as maintain a separate internal database with BOM and cross-reference info for the local store front-and so-on,etc... Trying to catalog TNA is just me having fun.. Cant play pinball all the time - lol. keep tinkering and maybe I'll come up with a complete manual in a single .pdf file thats worthy of Scotts website someday..)

OMG.!!

When I heard and seen the power tool - I knew it was getting serious.. I was scared for a minute. lol

Great job. Awesome modification.

..just curious = is it still kinda sloppy in nature where the pin and plastic bushings meet? not really the pin in and out motion - but twisting motion. my plastic bushings seem a little too - big if not intentional.

If you get bored - maybe post a video?. Curious to see

..That would be cool.!.. I could work remotely from home = all they have to do is send me each new model so I can trace all the wiring.. lol ( I wouldn't mind starting with a Sp00ky Doo, if anyones listening.. Haha..)

-happy to contribute,

..got off the schematics for a minute and was testing the waters to see what a "Parts Listing" one might look like. Little different and hardly any info.. Might make the manual a little thicker anyways

..will update/correct as I learn more.. As always "Use With Caution"..

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T-10, "Security bit" with the dimple in the center

https://1drv.ms/o/s!AoDwx_jIFCa6kUf7FehU33ymlQPj?e=ujAgOz

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> Definitely post a video if you get a chance.

..just curious - are you running the new beta code - or still stock from Sp00ky?

..for anyone keeping a manual. I added 2 new ones and changed one slightly.
(not the best - but its a start )
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..curious to know what switch as well. Pinball Life consistently replies to my e-mails - so, I would send them an e-mail and see what they advise. Their site is pretty good - but the TNA section could use some more work.

I haven't had to dissect that mechanism yet - and hope to never have to. Looks like alot going on there

https://www.pinballlife.com/1225-switch-assembly-for-1-bank-drop-targets.html = has a spooky reference# at the bottom. I am not sure if "ours" uses the 1.225" metal piece or not.?

Please post pics of your old one - just curious what, if any metal wire/actuator it has. If you get a complete unit - share the part# please

..there are just so many choices.. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693.html = no diode, no actuator

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..just found this

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Sweet!..

I had a few delivered the other day - but have not installed yet. Just curious - did you feel like the screws were still ok "length wise"? I wasn't sure if that would be an issue..

One Pinsider' said it looked like Spaghetti Soup - and I would have to agree.
At first glance it is overwhelming. Take a step back - and you can see it looks like that group of assemblers really cared. Almost an art form in itself..

Really the playfield and backbox wiring looks pretty good. I don't know how it could have been routed any better - since they pack so much in such a little space. They are using some wire guides, screw down clamps in the cabinet and PLENTY of plastic zip-ties (maybe a few too many - some things are a little tight and with a little more slack it could be helpful when tinkering. But no complaints..)

I believe? some of the various connectors in certain areas have improved compared to the first models? so A++ for that.. (but I haven't actually set my own eyes on an earlier version).

(however, my machine had a bad crimp job in the AC service receptacle inside the cabinet. Wire completely came out. If the enclosure box was metal - it would have shorted out!)
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..so when I see some say "the parts are the same between the first gen and the CE" - I like to keep an eye open for the differences and take note.

Here is another one. It may seem little - but this one just popped into my head when I just seen the Pinside ads for TNA parts at the bottom of the pages.

Totally different coin door. Whoah..

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Yah - I did a double look when I first seen that too..

ahh, I see..

Thanks for the heads-up.

Tomorrow - I will be posting items on 3-Bay for sale. The kit includes all fastening hardware, 2 additional coil assemblies and a custom ABS plastic ramp. The plastic ramp will basically fit near and above the core area and extends to each side mating to the Left and Right orbits. The gates will initiate differently depending on the current mode of the games (First launch, Ball Save...etc)

It should be super fun.

Also included is a hacked copy of Scott's existing software which will compensate for the new ramp assembly. Limited knowledge of DOS operating systems is required (but I can help for those unsure of how DOS works).

Limited supply run - for those interested. I may do more if enough people show interest.

... guys - I just cant take it.. Thought I could wait until tomorrow..

..and I don't want Scott to stroke out thinking - "Great, ! someone is changing my design again"

Just thinking about ramps on a TNA can get you banned..

What is tomorrows date?