Has anyone posted video of the lighted side rails? I really want to see that mod in action before I spend the money on it.
(Topic ID: 195784)
Linked Games
Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017-
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
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Quoted from FatPanda:I don't think there is much "action." Either they're on or they're off.
I didn't realize that. In that case I think I'll pass on this one.
9 months later
2 months later
Quoted from gliebig:Email pinball life. They will tell you exactly what you need for the lighted buttons.
Scott posted what you need on his website for lighted buttons.
http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1710
We added yellow ones to ours in January and they look great. 
3 weeks later
TheNoTrashCougar any hope for a rubber kit for TNA on pinball life? I have to replace a few and I'm feeling lazy to the point where I don't want to look everything up. Just clicking add to cart would be awesome....for me lol
Quoted from mackey256:thenotrashcougar any hope for a rubber kit for TNA on pinball life? I have to replace a few and I'm feeling lazy to the point where I don't want to look everything up. Just clicking add to cart would be awesome....for me lol
Alright, I finally got off my ass and ordered my backup rings. I figured this would help others to save some time when it comes time to order new rings.
10x - 3/16" Bumper Post Rings
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-316-silicone-post-rubber.html
2x - 2-1/2" Rubber Rings (This is for the lower slings. 2” or 2-1/4” can be used to further minimize the risk of balls
getting stuck behind these slingshot rubbers.)
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-2-12-silicone-rubber-ring.html
3x - 2" Rubber Rings
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-2-silicone-rubber-ring.html
1x - 1-1/4" Rubber Ring
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-14-silicone-rubber-ring.html
5x - 1" Rubber Rings
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-silicone-rubber-ring.html
3x - 1-1/16" Thin (Stern Compatible) Rubber Post Sleeves
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-thin-stern-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html
1x - 5/16" Bumper Post Ring
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-516-silicone-bumper-post-ring.html
2x - 3/8" OD Mini Post Rubbers
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-38-od-silicone-mini-post-rubber.html
2x - Flipper Rubber - Standard Size – Purple
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-flipper-rubber-standard-size.html
1x - Flipper Rubber - 1" Mini Size – Red
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-mini-red-flipper-rubber.html
Scott's official rubber ring list available here - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gwjXq_-yFIkouIl6ymJw9wfq6O8rOhnZ/view
1 week later
Quoted from KingPinGames:If you have any (positive/constructive) comments let me know. Remember, I am not a manual designer. I am a distributor/technician by trade.
Thanks for tackling this project for all of us. It's greatly appreciated.
2 months later
8 months later
TheNoTrashCougar v1.4.0 playing a coop game with Annihilation After Reactor set to 1 will reboot the game after defeating the reactor. Playing in single player or multiplayer will just quit the game back to the attract screen. No reboot. Not sure if that's supposed to work that way or not. (I can provide video if needed)
It would be sweet if you gave user the ability to enable and disable mystery awards in the menu. Sort of like a cheat menu. Tilt next player and warp to reactor 9 would be fun with friends.
1 month later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:I am starting to think nothing I am involved in is easy
Code updates are pretty easy on my end if it makes you feel any better. 
3 months later
Quoted from FatPanda:I just added them over the weekend. Definitely blends into the game perfectly!
Great minds. We just did the same to ours this past weekend. The light up drop targets are an outstanding mod to add.
1 month later
Quoted from THEFOZ:You can use the 4th LED associated with the lit drop target mod. Off by default. It will light blue when reactor is ready, green when activated, and red when critical. Turns off after blowing reactor.
I just wired this up using the 4th unused LED wire from the drop target mod. Blue when ready, green when activated and red when ready to blow. All it took was one zip tie and I was done. It would be cool if the first color was yellow but otherwise I like it. TheNoTrashCougar might have a better place to tie into this light but the 4th unused drop target wire was a super easy and a quick addition if you wanted to test it out.
2020-10-19 16.09.00 (resized).jpg2020-10-19 16.09.17 (resized).jpg2020-10-19 16.09.26 (resized).jpg2020-10-19 16.15.13 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from jbigdoggf:Ok all... I bought this drop target list of stuff... did the upgrades all was good until the last step. Only 2 of 3 lights actually light up. One slot is dead the other will light white but note the colors when I flip it around.
Is it possible I have a bad ribbon cable ? What else could I try ?
You should have four outlets on the cable to test. One only lights when the reactor is ready to start. The other three are for the drop targets. Make sure you have the correct ones plugged in. All four will light white when booting so you have to check once the game is on. It will be obvious which order the three should be in once they are interacting with the light show. Good luck.
1 month later
The upgrades shoot again display and the clear drop targets are totally worth it. No kit for the clear drop targets but there is a post about all the parts you need.
Ghost hinges were stock.
Also if you do the clear drop targets you can light up your scoop as well. Just grab 4 RGB Insert Lights when you place your pinball life order instead of 3.
3 weeks later
TheNoTrashCougar A Price Is Right mode where the displays are all turned off until after the game is over and then it shows the score. Everyone can try and get a certain score without going over and they won't know their current score until the game is done.
Quoted from EStroh:There's a simple way to make this mode yourself if you want this feature:
Tape over the displays.
for sure. lol We have a set of cardboard sitting on the table next to the lineup just for this. If we could do it via a flipper combination or in menu my life would be about 1% easier. TheNoTrashCougar probably has enough to do already without worrying about this. Just tossing out an idea.
1 month later
Has anyone had problems with their sub woofer being very staticy? It seems to happen at random times so I'm thinking loose wire but I can't find one yet. I did move the 3.5mm jack on the amp to a 3.5mm to rca jack adapter into the back of the amp. Didn't fix the issue.
My next step is to open the sub chamber and make sure the wires are connected solid on there.
Sub woofer static problem update:
At random times my sub woofer was being very staticy. I had moved the 3.5mm jack to the back of the amp using a 3.5mm to RCA jack adapter. When that didn't fix the issue it was suggested to look into the amp itself. I pulled that out and got it fixed by putting more solder on the board in a few spots. Turns out the circled area in these photos was the major problem. (Sorry I didn't get a good photo of the bottom of the board when I was working on it.)
side (resized).jpgtop (resized).jpgYou'll want to keep the wire ladder. I had to move mine when I installed my new numeric display as well. Still day dreaming about a similar numeric display in the upper play field. MORE LIGHT SHOW!!!!
Yes you'll probably have to move your wire ladder no matter what version of the display mount you use.
1 week later
Quoted from timmmmyboy:Any ideas what it might be?
Try swapping from the 3.5mm input to the RCA input on the back of the amp for a start. I'd keep the external disconnected until you can isolate the issue. If you still have the low rumble after switching to the RCA inputs disconnect just the internal sub to see if you can also hear the rumble from the other speakers or if it's only in the sub. Could help you track down the problem.
Quoted from timmmmyboy:Is the amp shot?
Probably not since you are still getting audio but it might have a cold solder joint somewhere. Try the above first and try to isolate the issue first.
2 months later
3 weeks later
Anything with extra lights is awesome on this game. I really dig the lighted scoop after doing the drop target mod.
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinbutterball:Are you taking suggestions for mystery awards in 2.0? Like "42 extra balls, save the princess"
If so "no lights play (one light only)" "only fart sounds" and "instant game over" come to mind.
It would be fun if you could turn on cheat mode so all those goofy mystery awards actually worked. It would be hilarious to tilt the next player before they even play. lol
3 months later
The mount for the light up drop targets were also shared in this post.
If you have access to a 3D printer you can make your own. I can't recall how long the screws were I used because I just hit the screw drawer in the basement and found three that wouldn't go through the playfield and used those.
If you want to do the version Scott talked about here is a great example of mounting them that way.
It's a difficult mod but not impossible. Just don't get frustrated and calmly work through the process. It's totally worth it.
A few people have taken the unused 4th LED wire and hooked up a light to the scoop as well which is fun. Here is how I mounted that on mine.
Otherwise different colored plastics are fun to swap out and the stickers linked before looks outstanding.
3 weeks later
Quoted from northvibe:Couple things to work through.
I think the sub is blown. At any level it sounds distorted And I guess what I think is blown, I tried the adjustments:
By turning the volume behind lcd down to 11, all amp knobs to 0, coin door do 11, and then adjusting and ya it sounds blown. Is there a replacement before I open the box up?
Check your amp first. Had a similar thing happen to mine and it was a bad solder joint on the amp. Took longer to warm up the soldering iron then to fix the issue. It’s been rock solid since.
Quoted from mackey256:A few people have taken the unused 4th LED wire and hooked up a light to the scoop as well which is fun. Here is how I mounted that on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/145#post-5917792
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Thanks, but you have power at your fourth connector. I have not. I've tried flipping the LED. No luck. I can't imagine there's a defect in the harness or the LED, but perhaps my two spare LED's are dead.
The fourth LED is only on during boot (white) and when a reactor is active (See photos in linked post above).
Otherwise it will be off.
Not to speak for TheNoTrashCougar but that 4th LED wasn't programmed into the light show at all. Just a fun thing to do since that 4th LED spot wasn't being used for anything yet.
Edit for clarity?: It does show the reactor status but it's not incorporated into the overall light show if that makes sense.
1 week later
Quoted from northvibe:Curious if anyone that reflowed some solder remembers the issue they found?
When I ran into an issues a few people had suggestions. My quest for help started on this post...
Here are the so so photos I posted when I found the issue on my amp. Try checking there and see if you have a similar issue.
Quoted from northvibe:Sounds night and day better.
Glad to hear your tracked down the issue. Sometimes isolating the problem is more work than fixing it.
1 month later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Do you have a Scorbit installed in your TNA?
Sadly no but we’ve been hammering on it all afternoon and it seems solid. Haven’t seen any errors yet.
Quoted from northvibe:Is the update worth doing if you don’t use scorebit?
Not sure. Just installed it since we were going to be playing it for a few hours. Figured that was as good a time as any to play test for Scott.
So far so good. Played for about four hours today. Not sure how many games but it was a lot. We didn't see anything weird or broken. We even tried to erase our names while entering high scores and all seems good there too. We'll keep an eye on it for ya.
1 month later
Just installed the quiet fan into TNA and I don’t know why I waited so long. Highly suggest this upgrade if your game is at home.
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-multimorphic-plug-n-play-quiet-fan-kit-600w.html
3 months later
Can I make a request to add the scope into the light show in the next version? I won’t hold you to it and I know that extra spot was originally designed for a mod or something. Basically just throwing it into the world and crossing my fingers. Thanks for the hard work Scott.
2 months later
Having owned a TNA for a few years I can honestly say the only thing I can think to add would be a crazy mode that adds all the mystery options to the game. Tilt next player, warp to reactor 9, etc. I imagine that would be a programming nightmare though. So maybe just add the scope light mod to the light show. Keep up the good work Scott.
Quoted from Coyohtay:Maybe a one ball Reactor challenge? Pick which reactor and try to beat it with one ball?
You can already set the game to reactor nine and see who can blow it up the fastest.
3 weeks later
About twenty or so games so far and I haven't seen any issues with the Beta. That being said I've been playing like crap and haven't made it past reactor 3.
Mostly one and two player games, single and coop competitive with maybe three team games. (Coop & Team were four player games)
1 month later
We were recently in Colorado for a family Thanksgiving and we found a great pinball place in the mountains called Lyons Classic Pinball. It's a super spot with a ton of games to play that are all in pretty good shape. They had a room set aside for just Total Nuclear Annihilation with a killer sound system and crazy lighting.
10/10 Highly recommended.
2022-11-19 13.45.32 (resized).jpg2022-11-19 14.18.23 (resized).jpg2022-11-19 14.38.36 (resized).jpg
1 week later
If you do your own drop targets you can also light the scope which is fun. Not sure if you can do that with CE games.
Quoted from Medic:Are you talking about the scoop by the drop targets? The harness comes with 4 hook ups for LEDs and there are 3 drop targets so just put the 4th one in the scoop?
Yeah, or the reactor scoop. It only takes a few seconds and a zip tie.
5 months later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Probably just slight things. Nothing crazy.
--Scott
Scoop light programmed into the light show? Pretty please!
2 months later
I Had my speakers stop during a game today. Sub was still working fine but the left and right speaker just stopped all of a sudden. I've had problems with my amp in the past but never speakers stopping completely. I pulled the amp and re soldered the speaker connections and it's working again. This post is more of an FYI for anyone who may encounter the same issue.
2023-08-02 12.49.03 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:I am just going to add a few visual updates to it before I stamp this version with a production code number.
Like incorporating the light show for the scoop LED some of us weirdos have added?
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:So there is a problem if I change the behavior of this LED... That output is a status output for modders to be able to tell the state of the reactor. I am not sure who is using this or not and changing it would mess up anything that utilizes it. It was not meant to be used as a light, but does work. I just don't think I want to go that route and change it at this point.
--Scott
That's totally understandable. I didn't realize that was implemented for modders to use. Very cool feature if anyone ends up using it.
2 months later
New beta code is pretty nice after about 10 or so games on it. We're having a pinball open house on Saturday and will have a bunch of folks playing on it. I'll report back if we find any bugs.
Played about fifty games on the beta code yesterday at the house party. Everything worked great on our end. Great work Scott.
2 months later
Quoted from AndyHancock:Recently purchased a TNA CE (2nd owner). I have to say it's an awesome game , right up my street .
Got to Reactor 4 earlier , got it critical , and had multiball running , and then it just died , flippers died and balls drained , like as if I'd tilted it , but no tilt shown on the screen so sure it wasn't . Also let me put my name in after ?
Anyone else has similar or knows what might be the issue ?
Check you settings. Specifically "Gameplay Features" menu and look for "Annihilation After Reactor." You can set a game to finish after a certain reactor there. It might be set to 4 instead of 9. We like to set ours to 1 on occasion and see who can get a high score the fastest.
2 weeks later
Quoted from cookpins:Is there an option to have the beacon go off during attract mode? I didn’t see on in the menu but maybe I’m missing it. If not, possible feature request?
Home > Settings > Machine (Standard)
The first option is for the beacon to be on during attract mode.
3 weeks later
Quoted from kevster:Couple of newbie questions:
Which code do most people run? The Code Updates link on Spooky's page takes you to 1.4.2, while the Documentation link shows an option for 1.5.0. And then the change log references a v1.5.1, which doesn't appear to show up elsewhere.
Also, and this makes me feel dumb to ask, but how do you see which code your machine is currently running? I'm guessing it's somewhere in the menu, but I couldn't seem to find it.
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783
Version 1.5.0 is the current stable code. That being said I've been running the Beta 1.5.1 since November of 2023 with no problems.
To see what version you have you can check the menu. If you hit menu and right you'll eventually get to Software Info which will tell you.
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