(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (2 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (2 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (2 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (2 years ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (2 years ago)


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#62 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I hope it's a great success for Scott and Spooky. Glad to support a new company that ships games and truly appreciates it's customers. I've bought several from Stern and honestly believe they didn't give a darn about me besides my money.

Charlie stated on Twitch tonight that they had passed America's Most Haunted (150) in sales. I hope they make it much further!

#69 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm putting down a deposit today. Can't wait for this beast!

Nice job!

#86 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

How did you get a number? I was just told what batch I'm in.

did you order from spooky or a distributor? if directly from spooky, give KT a couple days to get caught up and then just email her KT@SpookyPinball.com. she will be happy to help.

#122 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

They come with metal leg protectors pre-installed from the factory.

My brother said he had a lot of fun playing your game. Nice job.

#163 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

I want into this club!!!!

email KT@SpookyPinball.com

$1000 initial payment and nothing else due until the game is ready. considering they are on batch 4 (at least 151 machines) already in front of you, you will have some time to get it all together.

4 weeks later
#194 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Machines #1 and #2 have been shipped?

Machine #1 has.

#208 2 years ago

Speaking for myself, pinballstar can chime in for himself.

The cost is the same if you order from myself or directly from spooky.

#210 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Where's the value added if everybody says spooky has awesome support?

i don't understand your question. can you rephrase it?

17
#212 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Where's the value added if everybody says spooky has awesome support?

i think you are asking why order from a distributor (KingPin Games or Pinball Star) if you are going to get such awesome support directly from Spooky. Is that right?

I find that to be a funny question (humorous) as I (KingPin Games) am also the Tech Support department for Spooky Pinball. So, no matter whom your order through (Spooky, KingPin Games, or Pinball Star), you will receive the same awesome support as i will be the one you deal with if there are any issues with the game.

So, what value is added from a distributor? I would say building a relationship with a company that carries other lines of games. I also sell JJP games along with lots of other "game room" games (Big Buck Hunter, Golden Tee, Megatouch, etc) and Joe at Pinball Star also sells JJP, American Pinball, PPS (MMr, AFMr), and a couple of others i believe. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter where you get your TNA, just that you get it!

I hope that answers your question.

#225 2 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

How would an ordinary Joe be able to acquire one of these?

PM me your address and I will send one out. I have never mailed flyers before, so I'm not sure the best way to do it, but I'll figure it out.

1 week later
#252 2 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

And he's really good at it too! Turning over support to anyone else was something I was terrified to do. I would answer tech at 1 a.m. on New Years night (really did that). I've always gone out of my way to help anyone be happy with their game, and we still do that here. Chris is one hard working and crazy knowledgeable dude... we are lucky to have him.

sounds like it is time to ask for a raise...

2 months later
#597 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Sorry, must have been posting just as I edited my post......#250
Can someone tell me what the deal is with the 4 coins??? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4706

It's a "sac rack," which is used for $1 games. Each person put one Golden Sac (Sacagawea dollar) in the slot. It is just to make it easier than having paper money on the glass. Also helps when there might have been too much alcohol involved and someone puts a $10 (or $100) down instead of a $1.

1 month later
#860 2 years ago

congratulation to all the current and soon to be (and potentially new) TNA owners. Things are definitely picking up in the sales department. 4 new sales this past weekend and 3 of them are going on location!

1 week later
#1128 2 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

I've got a question. On my TNA, the far left outlane LED for the ball save is pink while every other LED is white. It throws me off every time I go to activate it because I'm flipping through looking for white. This is for the first level ball save too, I believe the second level they all become pink but cannot confirm that right now. My top left LED above the reactor is also pink while the others are white. Is this intentional or a bug in the code? Maybe a hardware issue?

there should be a few extras in a bag near the coin door. If not, let me know and we will get a couple out to you.

thanks.

#1181 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Anyone else have the game freeze while booting and have to cycle the power now and then?

Check to make sure the power cable (plug) going into the logic board is fully seated. If it is partial in there it can cause some issues. It's a little barrel plug like the one on the lcd panel.

#1185 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I have a few minor annoyances that I wanted to ask if anyone else is seeing and possibly has a fix for.
1. My scoop kickout is a bit erratic at times. Most of the time, it goes to the right flipper, but others it's as far right as the slingshot or as far left as SDTM. A few times it has dribbled out and landed on the left flipper.
2. The autolaunch sometimes shoots the ball up onto the plastics, hits the glass, trapped ball behind the right orbit gate, or jumps the fence into the reactor area. I've toyed with dialing down the coil strength, but I certainly don't want autolaunch to be weak enough to drop balls in the reactor area. That would be cheating.
3. I can't hit the start button fast enough. There is a small delay at the end of a game, and I have to wait until the Spooky screen shows before starting another game.
I'm absolutely loving the game, BTW. I've talked my wife into playing a few games, but mostly it has been just me. I have friends coming over on Saturday to give it a workout.

1) check and see what you scoop power is set at. possibly turn it down a bit. as soon as the opto "sees" the ball it fires the coil. if it is firing really hard it might just be bouncing it around inside the scoop before it exits.

2) check the alignment on the mechanism to make sure it is hitting the ball squarely and not off to one side. if you have access to a slow motion camera (some phones have it, some do not) you can set up a tripod on the playfield and have it fire a couple times to see the results.

3) there is a "restart" delay at the end of the game currently that has been reduced in the next release.

thanks for reaching out.

#1195 2 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I'm looking for some info from other operators that have the game out in the wild. I'm curious what people are doing for pricing and for the physical setup of the game.
I checked my audits after 24 hours and around 60 plays and noticed the game times were incredibly short. I increased the ball save time a bit to start with. I hung out at my location last night for about 3 hours, in those 3 hours a ball got shot under the right sling rubber 3 times. I reduced the power on the slings from 8 down to 6. I think I'm going to head back tonight and close the outlanes a bit as well. I want people to enjoy playing the game and I could tell some people last night were getting frustrated with its speed. Thinking about reducing flipper power as well, anyone done this yet?
I originally planned to price the game at $.75 with buy 3 get one free to encourage 4-player games, everything else at my location is $.50, but after seeing how short the games were I felt I need to leave it at $.50 as well. What are some of you doing for pricing?
I added mylar to the shooter lane and it has the plastic protectors, otherwise anything people are doing for protection anywhere on the game?

also check to see if the sling rubber is too low. if so, when the sling fires it could be pulling it down even further, therefore leaving a gap for the ball to get in behind it.

#1259 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I had a bunch of friends over last night, and TNA held up very well. Everyone seemed to love it, and I had one comment of "I might buy one."
There were only two issues that I noticed:
1. A ball was stuck on top of a drop target (might need height adjusted ) and ball search ran a couple of times. Once I saw the guy having problems, I nudged the ball loose, but it was still stuck behind the first drop target, and ball search wasn't running any more. I had to open the game.
2. I started multiball, but the game didn't detect it. The lighting and music didn't change. One ball drained quickly, and the game apparently switched players (we didn't notice until later) without a bonus countdown. There was a ball sitting in the shooter lane, while I was playing the other two.

1). Yes, adjust the height of the target itself

2). Go into the switch test and see if the 1st opto (technically ball lock 2) registers.

#1261 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Dumpling, yes. Chipping, no. In my experience, Spooky's playfields are the best in the business.

Mmmmm, dumplings. Hehe

Quoted from bitpatrol:

Does anyone have any chipping or dimpling on their playfield yet? I'm curious to find out how it's performing compared to others like CGC's. Would be good if there was none!

ALL playfields will dimple. It's a steel ball hittung a wooden surface, no way to stop that. That being said, spooky has one of the best playfield/clearcoats out there currently. Extensive testing has been done on multiple playfield and multiple styles of tests (strict ball wear, ball impact tests in the playfield itself, impact tests on edges of scoops, etc).

#1278 2 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

Speaking of the music, my favorite track is probably "The Armics." But does it only appear on the game when battling the 8th reactor? If so, the chances are slim I will ever get to hear it in the game.
kingpingames Are you going to have TNA on the floor at Texas Pinball Festival? I'm not expecting my #183 to be ready before the show. Can't wait to play the game in its finished form.

Technically Spooky will have the TNA(s) in their booth, but our booths are right next to each other so yes.

1 week later
#1326 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

What is the list of the Spooky distributor in the US?

Quoted from stevevt:

Didn't see a list on their site, but I know of these off the top of my head:
http://www.pinballstar.com/
https://www.kingpingames.net/

yeah,

here is it (in no particular order)

Directly (Spooky) (WI)
Pinball Star (PA)
KingPin Games (WI)
Ron Anthony (MO)

no matter whom you get your game from, it will be great!

#1402 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

Open it up and check the tighten-ness of the flipper coil stops. sometimes they are not fully tight. Check all flippers while your there.

I was typing the same thing. Check the flipper assembly and make sure everything is aligned. Take it apart and realign everything if needed.

#1452 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

I heard from a guy that Scott was at 31 flavors last night and not working on code.
Serious question though. How do I adjust voltage to 5.4 volts? I couldnt figure that out and Charlie poo has flu, so I do not want to bother him.

There is a plastic potentiometer located on the right side of the power supply where all the terminals are. With your meter on the 5v dc and ground, carefully turn the dial clockwise until you get to the desired voltage

20180104_071524 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#2186 2 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Any ideas on why my left scoop would stop working? Wires intact. Was working fine at first. Just got the pin within the last week.

check the opto for the scoop. also check the wiring. like frunch said, the power is daisy chained from coil to coil on that line. take a look at this wiring layout. see if your upper slings and upper flipper are working properly as they are on the same line.

wire to board color.pdf

#2190 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I’ve seen a simular issue on my game with the right scoop. It was always weak and the ball would only dribble out of it, had one report of it not working at all. I checked the wires on the scoop kickout and they are fine. I cranked the coil power for the right scoop up to 32 and it comes out now but still not as fast as the left one at a much lower power setting.
Suggestions?

check the actual mechanics of the mech. make sure the coil backstop and sleeve are secure.

#2207 2 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Okay, I re-seated J11 (that was actually pretty tough! that connector is really in there tight) with the blue wires and tested all coils. Here are the coils NOT working:
Upper flipper (main and hold)
knocker
RBG output (not sure what those do...LED tests pretty normal except the "release" and "lock" inserts not coinciding with the rest of the playfield)
left scoop
shaker
all core slings
I would have already tested the fuses but they are encased in plastic and I'm not familiar with that so wasn't exactly sure how to remove them for testing.
Thanks in advance for the next suggestion. I need to get my baby up and running again so I can get new code installed. I probably only have 20-30 games on it myself so far and really need to get into this bad boy.

The covers themselves just pop off of the fuses. I would start with the fuse since all of the coils you have listed are on the same line.

all of those are tied together. follow the blue wire itself to from the board to the first coil. the power lines run from coil to coil. if the first one came off then everything downstream from that will not work.

you can email me at Service@SpookyPinball.com if you like so it doesn't get lost in this thread.

#2211 2 years ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

Amazon has them for about $8 a pack.

careful with Amazon and Ebay. We have had more than a few reports of people that purchased "slo-blo" fuses only to find out they were not. We prefer to go through someone like Pinball Life as we know they check them.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1580

#2219 2 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

So, it uses a 6.3mA slo-bro? (that is the link you posted). It looks like when I try to read the fuse it was maybe something like 14mA. I'll have to find it again and try reading it again. I have some 6.3 laying around. If 6.3mA work, I'd be ecstatic! (Also, when reading the fuse itself, how do I tell if is a slo-bro?) Just need to make sure I have the right thing.
Dang older eyes! Even with some readers on those little buggers are hard to read!

No, they are 4A Slo-Blo fuses. that is just the default that the page goes to. Click the drop-down menu and select the 4 amp ones.

1 week later
#2283 2 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Yep , and I'll most likely own another one at some point .

i have one if this is "at some point."

#2286 2 years ago

this was in reference to the STTNG doug sold and said he would own again.

Quoted from davijc02:

Are you claiming to currently have a TNA for sale?

#2288 2 years ago

not at this time. if you would like to put in an order for one we can do that though.

fyi, i will be in ft wayne in a couple of weeks to change out some games at Combats Ops. I have never been there, but it looks interesting.

#2290 2 years ago

i would say get your deposit in soon as there is probably a 5-6 month backlog. find a walking dead to play in the meantime. if you don't like walking dead by the time your tna is ready, then dump the walking dead. if you do like twd and your tna is ready... well, then i guess you will have 2 more pins than you do now.

sounds like a win-win to me.

#2295 2 years ago
Quoted from davijc02:

Next order of a NIB game that I do will go through them as long as he doesn’t personally deliver it wearing that adult size small shirt that I saw on here a few months back! Shit still gives me night terrors. Or is that a service some pay extra for?

I could always as bangerjay to assist on the delivery. He has a bobblehead and everything, I'm just getting started.

#2307 2 years ago
Quoted from kettchxxii:

Thanks kingpin, spooky, and Scott for making this happen! Game is amazing!

Jim, you should let everyone know where that is so they can come out and play it!

#2331 2 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

My upper flipper return spring broke last night. It’s a tiny spring. Definitely not up to the task. Mine is 109. Hope they change it in future builds.

send a message to Kayte (KT@SpookyPinball.com) and she can send out some replacement springs.

#2368 2 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Sorry if this was asked before.....is this game sold out? Can you still buy one? If so, where? Hard to find disty info on their website.

Thanks ltg

This is an unlimited run (for now). You can order the following distributors/companies

Spooky Pinball (WI)
KingPin Games (WI)
Pinball Star (PA)
Nitro Pinball (WA)
Rob Anthony (MO/MT)

Ordering today would probably have a game to you around September. You can check with Pinball Star / Nitro as they ordered larger allotments and may have some in the queue that are still available, otherwise just order from anyone you are comfortable with.

1 month later
#2991 2 years ago

check and see if the red and green line somehow got connected (possibly the solder leaked between the two).

#3012 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Hey guys. Is there any way to add head phones to a TNA? Thanks for the input. -- Craig

There is a 3.5 mm audio cable that comes from the lcd panel and goes to the amplifier. you could use a splitter at the amp, but you would have to manually go in and turn down (off) the amp and then figure out how to run your other 3.5 mm (female) cable out of the game so you could plug your headphones in.

While it is not impossible, there is no direct or aftermarket way that i am aware of yet.

3 weeks later
#3184 1 year ago
Quoted from Aqua1122:

Question... is the order number you are assigned actually printed on the TNA machine somewhere? Just curious.

I believe it is part of the serial number.

2 weeks later
#3297 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Dumb question of the day...Is there any technique to help get the lock down bar to latch easier? I struggle with this on TNA more then any machine I've ever owned.

It's the same as bally Williams / stern / jjp. You will need to adjust the two brass screws under the lockdown bar. To make this easier I would remove the balls, stand the playfield up and then make your adjustments. That way you can see what you are doing.

1 month later
#3472 1 year ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Anyone else have a drop target 3 down error? The target drops just fine during game play but if the game tries to drop it, the solenoid goes off for it but the target doesn’t drop. Solutions?
Also, some of the Star posts have a peeling piece of circlular Mylar under them. I’m assuming this was something used during production that doesn’t need to be there now.

The way this works is as follows.

Cpu sends the signal to the release coil to drop the target. Then the cpu looks for the target down switch to confirm it is down. If it does not see that switch then it gives the error. That is the only way this error comes up. Try adjusting the switch to make a more solid hit. Otherwise it is possible you have a flaky switch.

Hope that helps.

2 weeks later
#3569 1 year ago

not sure if the picture will help,

but here is what i have

with the playfield up in the air with the lugs facing you

top (right) = blue
middle = blue/purple
bottom (left) = blue/green

20180104_071203 (resized).jpg
#3573 1 year ago
Quoted from Skrippy:

So I have:
Top (right) = Blue
Middle = broke off
Bottom (left) = Blue/green
I have a Blue/red and solid colour wire broken off. Nothing blue purple that I can see, unless I'm, just colourblind cause I just don't see it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Solid blue with the other solid blue (the daisy chain from on coil to the next). Blue/red to middle. Mine could be different as I have an engineering sample game.

1 week later
#3611 1 year ago
Quoted from blurfocus:

My TNA's right flipper is misbehaving. When the flipper is held in the up position, it can be knocked back down by a ball hitting the flipper, even when the ball doesn't hit it very hard.
For example, if I short plunge so that the ball nearly makes the upper lanes, so that the falls back down the right orbit - Then, the ball will be moving fast enough that it knocks down the right flipper when I am holding it up. If the ball is moving slower (e.g. due to a shorter plunge), then the flipper stays up when the ball hits it. This flipper collapse problem just started happening in the past day or two. The left flipper seems fine.
This TNA has only 119 games played and 364 balls played. It has version 1.2.1 of the software installed.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this or how to diagnose it?
Here is a link to an 11 second video showing the problem happening. I did not release the flipper button, but the flipper goes down when the ball hits it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/q3cko1KvcD2EQrgz7
Thanks,
John Garnett

I would start with your flipper switch gap. Make sure it is adjusted properly. After that I would look into the hold settings in the menu as described.

If you wish to continue this offline, you can reach me at Service@SpookyPinball.com

#3649 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Just set up my TNA #343 looks great and plays fast.
My question the beacon does not seem to be active, where can I find the beacon test? Is it possible that it is not plugged in, when dies it normally light up?
Thanks

right now the beacon test can be done in via the "burn in test." I believe that there will be a dedicated test in the next software release.

the other thing you can do start a reactor, then it should activate.

#3651 1 year ago

i am not in front of mine right now, but i believe it comes down from the beacon and goes into the driver board. its a power and ground.

2 weeks later
#3796 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I had non-pinhead causal players (extended family) over this past weekend, and before I explained the rules to TNA, they were pretty lukewarm to it. Once I explained the simple concept and CoOP mode, they were having a blast with it. It was TNA and Dialed In most of the weekend.
My classic Ballys didn't get played much. TWD (my oldest pin) was unplayed for the most part, since they've played it plenty of times before, and XMLE got a decent amount of play too (XMLE, TNA, and DI were all new to them). But definitely DI and TNA were the most played machines this past weekend

sounds like it is time for me to take TWD off your hands. We do excellent trade in programs if you are interested.

#3822 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

ok
[quoted image]
This was the game just sitting - when it does it in play mode it fires more balls onto the playfield.
What do I need to adjust? nothing looks out of the ordinary.
Cheers,
Neil.

did you recently update the code? if so, check the polarity of the 5v dc and ground plug that goes to the trough optos. it is possible that you need to flip the connector over to get the polarity right

1 week later
#3863 1 year ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Okay Christopher did get back. Guess they are working this week.

This works. I’m not sure how this is different from a cold boot but I’m back in business; and it survives a power cycle too.
Here’s the button (my eye sight sucks, had to use the camera to see it. Don’t get old fellas). It pushes from the side. [quoted image]

Jason,

Glad to see it worked for you. At this time i am in talks with the board manufacturer to see why it is sometimes necessary to push this "power button."

Thank you for your patience.

Christopher (Spooky Tech Support)

1 week later
#3960 1 year ago
Quoted from Oldschool84:

So.... I found these parts laying around the amp and subwoofer box.... Hahaha Any idea where they go? ...Opps![quoted image]

they go to your pop bumper. the metal ring has two threaded posts that come from the top of the playfield through to the underside. from the top side down it should be

metal ring
washer
metal spacer
paper spacer
washer
nylon nut

let me know if this makes sense to you

#3967 1 year ago
Quoted from xbmanx:

Support thinks it’s a bad opto jam board so that’s the next thing to try to fix this. I have to say that support has been VERY responsive which i appreciate.

hehe. they are good people.

fyi, I am that people.

#3985 1 year ago
Quoted from DadofTwins:

I'm not really electrically tech savy, is there a way to hook up a subwoofer or external speakers to this game? Also, my pop bumper fell apart just like some others on here recently. Could anyone post a clear pic on the correct order to reassemble it all please. I know kingpin explained it, but it isn't clicking with me and I have 2 more washers then he listed as going into the reassembly. THANKS!

Here is a picture of it assembled. Remember, the playfield will be between the metal ring and the posts that go through the playfield.

See the picture Scott "The Rockstar" posted below. It's a more accurate representation

1 week later
#4189 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Kt, Charlie and bug are traveling.
I'm sure other minions are holding down the fort.

Squirrel is there and she is more than capable of handling it. If there is something you need, let me know and i will see that it gets to her.

otherwise, here email is

Squirrel@SpookyPinball.com

#4218 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

That answer was so obvious, I was left speechless.

Holy shit! Quick, someone record this moment in history. Bryan "dont you know I'm retired" Kelly has nothing to say...

Hehe.

#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from pinwin:

Yes, you have to replace them with:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-service-button.html
According to Chris at spooky.

make sure you do not overheat the legs when soldering the wires on. they are delicate and applying too much heat will damage them.

#4241 1 year ago
Quoted from getadam:

Anyone have any creative ideas for a headphone jack for this game? The stock speakers are amazing but there are times where I need to go a little less noisy in the house.

it is a standard 3.5mm jack that goes into the back of the amp. you could install a splitter before it enters the amp, then run a male to female extension to the outside of the game somewhere (through the coin return possibly). when you want to use your headphones, plug them into the female extension and then reach in and turn the amp power switch off.

I have not actually tested this, but it should work.

1 week later
#4315 1 year ago
Quoted from callaway15:

I just got my TNA yesterday and got it set up. Pretty exciting. A few questions, though. This is my first pin, and I'm not sure if I'm securing the lock bar down properly. Is there a trick to reinstalling it? Should the yellow handle be pointed down when secured or off to the right?
Thanks for the help.

The handle should be slightly to the right. There are two brass screws that you can adjust that will move the lockdown bar assembly up and down until you get it right. while this is adjusted at the factory, the cabinets can be different (pitch, squareness, etc) when you set it up on your floor. I recommend removing the balls from the game, lift the playfield up and make your adjustments so you can see what is going on without obstructions.

Second, is it typical to have a lot of debris on a new game's playfield, and need to clean it? I did blow and wipe off a lot of saw dust/other particles, but still think I probably should clean it better. Perhaps use an espresso coffee grounds brush?

The games are built in a relatively clean building, but it is not clean room clean. while i wouldn't expect a lot of debris, there will probably be some from the room, the box, the truck it road in, etc. Cleaning the game is going to become part of the maintenance necessary to owning a pinball.

I also noticed after about 4 games, the shaker is quite strong. I did turn the setting to low, so hoping that will be a little less intense. I noticed around the 4th game, or when I turned the volume down, I started getting sound distortion from the backbox speakers. Is this just like a connection on the back of the lower backbox speaker panel, should I just remove and wiggle all the connections?

the sound comes from the cpu to the display panel via the hdmi cable. from there it exits the display panel and goes to the aux input on the amp via a 3.5mm cable. from the amp it goes out to the corresponding speakers. I would start with the 3.5mm cable and then check the speaker leads.

Hope you are enjoying your game!

#4368 1 year ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

it is a standard 3.5mm jack that goes into the back of the amp. you could install a splitter before it enters the amp, then run a male to female extension to the outside of the game somewhere (through the coin return possibly). when you want to use your headphones, plug them into the female extension and then reach in and turn the amp power switch off.

I have not actually tested this, but it should work

#4369 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Just made the final payment on mine!
First order of business is to figure out how to play my TNA with headphones so I can enjoy the music without pissing off the family. Has anyone done this yet?
(install a headphone jack, not piss off my family).
Thanks for any advice...

it is a standard 3.5mm jack that goes into the back of the amp. you could install a splitter before it enters the amp, then run a male to female extension to the outside of the game somewhere (through the coin return possibly). when you want to use your headphones, plug them into the female extension and then reach in and turn the amp power switch off.

I have not actually tested this, but it should work

1 week later
#4453 1 year ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

What voltage is a bill acceptor on a TNA?

Factory voltage is 110v ac

#4473 1 year ago
Quoted from DJNOEL30:

Christopher told me that it happens rarely but they still don't have a clear understanding as to why it happens. It only happened twice on me prior but the new code must have triggered something. I'll give it some more plays this weekend to see if it continues.

Yeah, please keep me updated so I can continue to discuss it with the cpu manufacturer

#4522 1 year ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Scott, think you already answered this but maybe you (or someone else) can diagnose.
Balls are randomly added to game. At some points when it gets real bad it’s continuous and balls are thrown into the game as quickly as they can drain. So I’ll get like a 4 ball Multiball going for no reason.
Something to do with the trough?
Also, it might be time to go through my game and tighten stuff up... the pop fell apart and it’s hardware was laying on the bottom of the cabinet. Powerful shaker!

Check your trough jam opto. If the game thinks there is a ball stuck it will keep trying to clear it by pushing another one past it.

#4533 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

Any guidance on this would be much appreciated.

This is your basic lead switch adjustment. Get a ultimate leaf adjustment tool from pinball life. You will use it on every pinball you own. There are some videos on YouTube, but basically you are going to adjust the gap between the two switches closer together if the reaction time isn't to your liking or further apart if you think the sling is "getting stuck."

#4544 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I like to think of Scott as Elon Musk. TNA is a Tesla. That works for me in my world.

I prefer to think of him as Gomez Addams. Quirky, fun to be around, and a beautiful wife.

2 weeks later
#4639 1 year ago
Quoted from hayrebear:

Wondering if someone can help point me in the right direction. I’m still a novice and learning a bit on the basic repair side of things. Seeing the following error message. So far, from what I gather, the right scoop opto is not registering. I ran tests to confirm as well. Visual inspection shows the opto still looks to be lined up. Also, was not seeing either of the wire ends loose.
Recommendations on next steps? Is the opto faulty? Or am I missing something more basic.
[quoted image]

Follow the power wires back to the small power distribution board and make sure they are secure. It will be a small board with a red and black set of wires going in and 4 sets of wires coming out. The board should be located on the underside of the playfield near the drop targets.

#4656 1 year ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Starting to get a pretty constant Drop Target 1 error. Each game starts with the #1 drop target up and hitting it will indeed drop it, however when two balls are locked in, they won't release. Both ball jam-up behind the #1 which will not drop. The long spring that attaches to the black plastic drop target was indeed fouled, but the error still occurs after reinstalling this spring correctly (correct to my knowledge). Can anyone share any common experiences and how to rectify this problem? Many thanks to all who contribute to this board! I'm new to this hobby, so not privy to many tricks of the trade in troubleshooting!

also, make sure you are on the latest release.

rev 1.3.0

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k53qgsp93g1PP0Ah7XLZf6L6o8jHA0ct

#4698 1 year ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

Any ideas what might be causing this lighting snafu? This is my routed machine and I have not been able to go investigate yet. Fuse? [quoted image]

Check the 5v dc going to that board. Do the rest of the lights function as they should?

#4700 1 year ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

Everything else is good

Okay. Then the board is passing thr information through. Check for a loose power cable or no voltage at that cable. There is a black wire (ground) and a red wire (5v dc). Make sure it hasn't come loose.w

#4705 1 year ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Upper right playfield lights are out 33 thru 56. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks for any help

Okay. Then the board is passing the information through. Check for a loose power cable or no voltage at that cable. There is a black wire (ground) and a red wire (5v dc). Make sure it hasn't come loose.

#4736 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I'm guessing it was fewer games during those first several months then ramped up at the end. I think they said they were at around 14ish games a week near the end.
Also on the podcast they mentioned a manual for TNA. I was doing other things while listening, but it sounded like it was close to being complete.

"Close to complete" is not what I would have said, but it's getting there. I need to update some of the code specific pictures and settings. While i have the basics outlined, I am no Butch Peel (jjp manual designer) so dont get your hopes up for CAD drawings of each mech. I'll try to get something out for approval in the next couple of days (weeks) and we can see then how much improvement will be needed.

#4748 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Wow! Has the game officially sold out of spots on the reserve list? I thought they were doing 550 games for now, though i could be mistaken.

The game has now moved to a "waiting list." When the list gets filled, then another run will be done from what I understand.

#4752 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Here is the drop switch.
https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-19-straight-flat-actuator.html
Be careful when tightening the switch down as too much sideways pressure on the switch can make it stick and/or damage it.
Here is a diagram of the TNA pop from the Baywatch manual that I have. Same thing.
[quoted image]

From an earlier post from scott

#4753 1 year ago

Essentially

Metal ring
Washer
Fiber insert
Metal insert
Washer
Washer
Nylon nut

#4765 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

Indeed - this is a great resource - thank you for sharing. I'm going to print and laminate this and put it in the game.

it will be in the manual. I need to update a couple of pictures from the latest code and hopefully will have a draft for everyone to look at (and to rip me a new one for not being a manual designer) by the end of the this month (february 2019)

#4767 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

You've got high standards to live up to ever since Butch appeared on the scene.

For sure. Mine will look like doodles on a napkin by comparison

#4770 1 year ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Can someone send me the numbers off the backbox key? We may have lost ours and I have a pile I can go through before picking or drilling. There was much drinking and rejoicing after the last code update.

They are different. You can go to an auto parts store and get a basic torx bit set (tamper proof). You can unscrew the plate that has the lock and then remove the entire plate and change the lock

2 weeks later
#4902 1 year ago
Quoted from jfrazie:

Just joined the TNA club. Picked up one yesterday that was for sale here on pinside. Got it home and set up today. Put a few dozen games on it and realized that the beacon isn’t working. No light, no spinning, even in test mode. Any suggestions? What wires should I be checking?

Did you try the new "beacon test?" Is it is in the test menu starting with code 1.3.0

#4905 1 year ago
Quoted from jfrazie:

Tried the beacon test in the newest code. No luck. [quoted image]

are your orbit gates working? they are on the same line (12v dc) as the beacon. If you look in the backbox, find the two control boards (the ones that have the transistors on them). the lower board, and the left side of that board is the 12v coil section. make sure your J5 connector (black wire and a yellow wire) are secure as this is the 12v in. J3 is the 12v out, then J7 is the return line. There is also a fuse at F1. If it would be easier, you can email me Service@SpookyPinball.com.

#4912 1 year ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Picked up my TNA last Thursday from the shipping terminal. I've got it in the basement, but I'm waiting to set it up till I get the room its going in painted... Patience is hard!
I've got a pile of spooky accessories to put in it when I do set it up.
Shout out to Chris at Kingpin Games for the smooth service!
In the meantime, I ordered this towel to cover the glass when it's not getting played.[quoted image]

Quoted from iloveplywood:

Installed the shaker today and its wife approved. I'm pretty shocked how much she loves the game. she keeps bringing it up to people and is constantly trying to get her friends to play. I was worried it would be too intense for her. So fun to play a few games head to head followed by co-op mode.
I second the kudos to chris at kingpin games. A great buying experience.

Thanks guys. It means a lot to me when people appreciate the time and effort I put in to make things work well.

1 week later
#4939 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

My game a few times now has randomly blow the fuse for the lower playfield coils. Controls a few other things, looked and cant find anything alarming any ideas?

Which fuse is it blowing? Note, the diagram attached shows with color (solid a color wire) is associated with the corresponding fuse. Check the wiring on the corresponding coils and see if any of them are shorting to ground. Also, manually move the plunger for each associated coil and see if there is any resistance. If there is, then check that coil for a bad coil sleeve.

If you have any other questions you can reach me a
Service@SpookyPinball.com

Copy of TNA Coil wiring diagram.pdf
#4973 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

Is there a chart or reference for size and number of each of the rubbers in this game? I'm probably going to need some of the main slingshot rubbers soon but thought I might go ahead and get at least one full set of everything with a few extra of the ones more prone to wear.

From scottdanesi.com

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gwjXq_-yFIkouIl6ymJw9wfq6O8rOhnZ

3 weeks later
#5158 1 year ago
Quoted from iloveplywood:

The one bug that effects me more than every once in a while is no ball saver on the scoop during multiball. It's not a wonderful feeling to have two balls in play and watch one go out an out lane and the other being fired straight down the middle from the scoop. Maybe this isn't a bug though?
I'd also love the option to increase the ball saver from the scoop up a notch (one more second even). Sometimes it hangs around in the trough just enough before draining where I don't get the ball save. It's not so much how often this happens as the paranoia I feel ever time scoops goes into the trough now. Again, definitely fine as is -- just slightly annoying in a pinball way when it happens.

adjust the power to the scoop and see if that helps (start by going lower)

2 weeks later
12
#5249 1 year ago

If you have any (positive/constructive) comments let me know. Remember, I am not a manual designer. I am a distributor/technician by trade.

1 month later
#5406 1 year ago
Quoted from iloveplywood:

Thanks guys,
Yeah its always happened on non-square or soft hits before but it was relatively rare and pretty obvious that it was the quality of the strike that was the cause. There's definitely been a change in the last 70 games or so (I've put about 1100 on the game) and it's hard to go a game without it happening at least once and I'm at the point where my urge to play has dropped drastically because of it. The game was definitely hard enough for me before this started happening, so I'll do some more testing and maybe look at the mechanism or maybe god forbid the flipper power.
Thanks again for the help, I'll report back if I find anything out for future reference.

should have reached out to spooky tech support or the distributor you got it from...

i heard he is a good guy and if wasn't dealing with a screaming child around 9pm last night I am sure he would have jumped on here and helped out.

1 week later
#5446 1 year ago
Quoted from LargemouthAss:

Just unpacked my new-to-me TNA. Everything lights up but the start button and diagnostic buttons wont register. I checked for loose connections everywhere but could not find any. Any ideas on what could fix this? The game was working properly when packed as the seller sent videos.

Those buttons are controlled by the switch board located to the left side of the base cabinet by the coin door. Check the power (red and black) wires and the data (grey) cable.

2 months later
#5801 10 months ago

New! Exclusive! Dare I say EPIC mod?

Just kidding, it's just a usb extension ran to the coin door. When you're slightly wider than the space you left between the games, this helps a lot.

10' usb male to female extension cable (around $4 on amazon.

Works great.

And yes, you can load all your p-roc game updates on the same flash drive as the system looks for a specific title to update that specific game (you can also do this with jjp delta updates).

20190831_075240 (resized).jpg20190831_075256 (resized).jpg20190831_075334 (resized).jpg20190831_075339 (resized).jpg20190831_075509 (resized).jpg
#5809 10 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

Has spooky replaced chipping playfields yet? Jjp started doing this for potc.

for extreme cases they did. for the majority of people that had issues, the washers were enough to cover and stop further damages.

3 weeks later
#5863 9 months ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

Anybody have their TNA bricked during update?

not that i am aware of. what seems to be the issue?

4 weeks later
#5960 8 months ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I am also getting the no signal. What power button are you talking about? I don't see one.
Thanks.

Start by checking the HDMI cable from the CPU to the display panel. make sure it secure. if that looks good, then (with the game on) use your finger to locate the "power button" on the CPU. it is located under the barrel plug connector in the lower right corner of the CPU board. push this button and see if it comes on.

otherwise, you can email Service@SpookyPinball.com and they can assist you more.

2 months later
#6194 6 months ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

Got a report from a player today that on the TNA we have on location, some of the LEDs were stuck on in the middle of a game. After looking at his picture and reading the manual, the LEDs are all the ones on PD-LED board number 2. They were all stuck in their "correct" colors, not all in one color. Now 1 hour later, everything seems to work as normal. Was this a crazy software bug or something electrical we should look into?

next time you get a chance take a look at the data cables (grey wires) that go from board to board. if they lights get stuck on it generally means that the board lost it's data chain and "just froze" in it's last known state.

1 month later
#6257 4 months ago
Quoted from libtech:

Anyone know if there are still NIB TNA's at some distros?

None that I'm aware of

#6272 4 months ago
Quoted from Kenz:

Scott,
Do you expect a new run of TNA’s in the future?

Spooky said if there was demand and time between games they would consider another run

2 months later
#6611 76 days ago
Quoted from Spudgunman:

Any tips troubleshooting a switch board - I have a non working switch.

switches on the same board share a common ground (black wire). follow the black wire back to the previous switch and make sure you don't have a broken wire.

#6621 72 days ago
Quoted from Spudgunman:

will check. After that is there anything on the board to diagnose? Any tests or check or components that I can replace - or is it just keep a spare board

all of the switch boards are identical, they just have different dip switch setting to designate which one is which in the line. if you suspect it is the switch board, then you could swap two boards, just make sure you note the dip switch settings and set them correctly.

1 month later
#6833 41 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Are talking 3 individual players or can you have mismatched teams in vs mode?

3 on 1... wouldn't that be fun.

Most places charge for that kind of fun

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