(Topic ID: 195784)
Linked Games
Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017-
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
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Quoted from procks:A couple minor things...
Does anyone else feel like they're going to destroy their machine when they push the playfield over the hump on the rails to lay it back down flat?
Does anyone else's ball save timer light up in random ways during attract mode?
Ya my timers kind of do a flicker during attract mode, looks to be intentional to me. Also yes, getting over the “hump” when pushing the playfield back in is just part of the deal
So I have an occasional issue. Sometimes drop target #2 won’t drop when triggering Multiball or even at the end of the game it will ball search several times before finally releasing the ball. Is this an Opto issue or coil issue ? Perhaps mechanical? Where should I start in my troubleshooting? This pin is fantastic BTW, the ultimate players pin.
To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?
Nice 
C_n_C ! It was also my first pin and it keeps me coming back for more and more. JUST ONE MORE REACTOR! It’s like you’re always just one shot away and nearly every drain is your fault. It’s a high speed ass kicker but an incredibly fair pin with The outlane/center drain saves. Killer job Scott and Spooky. I’d also love to have a BK3, another brutally fun game that fights back! Good taste in games mate. Cheers
1 week later
Ok, time for new rubbers and cleaning. What’s everyone using to clean their spooky playfields? Is waxing the playfield for home use necessary ? What about cleaning the optos?
Quoted from RobF:A couple days after buying the game from the original owner I noticed some post pooling. Spooky said they would send some washers. Unfortunately something like 5 plays later, I lost a sliver of art. I 3d printed my own washers from TPU material which is very similar to rubber and have played it that way for the past year. Spooky agreed to sell me a new PF at cost so that has been stored away until now. I recently decided to trade the game out and offered the new owner the PF swap as part of the deal.
It isn't for the faint of heart. The topside is super easy as you would expect. The bottom side is challenging with all of the LED light boards. Also the new PF did not come with the holes drilled out for the 10 or so T-nuts, so there is some drilling into the new shiny surface. You need to prepare your sphincter in advance.
This is just me, but wouldn’t it make more sense to just continue using the current playfield until it’s unplayable, knowing you have a minty one on hand? Just seems kinda wasteful to rip out a playfield because of a tiny little Art chip, but again to each’s own.
Quoted from ArcadeBar:Just joined the club (Hooorraaaaay) Very Excited to get this on location and welcome my little college town to the future!! Only playfield additions I did are a dimmed purple trough light and 2 color changers in both the scoops, frosted light-up drop targets might be next but that's it, this things amazingly awesome!!!
Cool! Btw, I noticed that the GI light near the right destroy target was green?
Quoted from joelbob:Do you think it makes hitting it any harder or easier?
I think It may have made it slightly easier to hit, perhaps its slowing the ball down a tad? It definitely didn’t make it harder to hit
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Does that hang up on a slow roll from the reactor core to the scoop? Seems like it might need a cutout like the Tron one to prevent ball hangups, but I could be wrong.
It does hang up from time to time on a slow roll, yes. I need to figure this out because I’m wasting precious tilt warnings getting it free!
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Thanks for the help!
After replacing the switch with no effect, I closely examined everything. In the process of troubleshooting I replaced the drop target spring with a slightly stronger one and now it works flawlessly. I'm at 20 games with no drop issues and no errors. She's rock solid now.
One day I'll get my R&M. Love you games. Keep up the good work and thanks for making random strangers lives just a little bit better!
What did you use for a spring specifically ? I’m having the same issue
2 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Medic:Anyone got the lighted side rail mod? Does yours make a high pitch sound? I got a replacement but still having sound coming from the leds and a little disappointed and was wondering if I can try to do anything else to cut out the interference. The leds have a constant sound and it gets louder when I attach the rails.
Mine makes a high pitch sound as well
Quoted from Medic:I opened the inverter and the capacitor was disconnected/blown. They are sending me a replacement inverter and hopefully it takes care of the noise issue.
[quoted image]
Oh? Maybe I’ll have to tear into mine and see if it did the same. Keep us posted
3 weeks later
Hey guys, I have a switch acting funny. It’s the E rollover in the top CORE section. When I go into switch test mode it’s fine Everytime I roll a ball over it but during gameplay it registers intermittently/rarely at all. Thoughts ?
8 months later
Quoted from AndHart120:Yeah I know what you mean! I’m not sure if there’s a way to fix it so this doesn’t happen or not. It it’s simply getting stuck on the edge of the cliffy inside the reactor if traveling at low speed. I finally had enough and took it out. It was happening literally every single game.
I simply layered too small pieces of Mylar next the edge of the cliffy and on the playfield, creates a smooth transition and have not had an issue since
BF0FBDA2-DAC1-4AE0-B3E6-DBE15C01A3CC (resized).jpeg 7 months later
TNA has a BOM that’s more than most people realize. The 3 drop targets , two scoops, a spinner, two gates, 5 slings, a pop bumper, etc. on the surface it seems stripped down but it’s really not. Two digital counters on the playfield, 3 flippers, every light insert is RGBw. When I lift the playfield on mine I’m always reminded that it’s got more going on than meets the eye. Real back-glass, shaker motor,a real knocker (at least in mine), killer sound system with a sub woofer chamber. It may not have wire forms and ramps everywhere but there’s a lot of mech in this game and people shouldn’t sell it short.
2 weeks later
5 months later
Anybody else with the hooked on pinball light up side rails have issues with theirs? Mine stopped working for some reason after a year or so of ownership (it came with the machine I purchased). There’s a momentary push button I found that I was unaware of? Any info on this?
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from supermoot:It's likely the stereo input plug to the amp. noodle with it and search the thread for various fixes.
Thank you this fixed it. Now I have a new problem lol my speaker lights are two different shades of color…
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:That is just a loose connector or a wire might have pulled somewhere. Put the game in LED test and test the R, G, and B channels to see which one does not work. Then you can trace it back easier once you open the backbox.
--Scott
All connections are good, and most of the time the colors match when the game is red or blue etc but for whatever reason one of speaker lights is always more of a pink instead of purple when it’s at idle ?
F47F012E-3DF6-4A18-BBF2-423900DC69B0 (resized).jpeg
2 months later
All three of the slings in the core stopped firing ? The switches work but the coils don’t. Any thoughts as to where to look?
Quoted from trilogybeer:If more than those three coils are out check the fuse. If just those three are out check the wiring at the coils. The power wire could have broke off the lug on the first coil in the core slings or a previous coil that is on the same power wire.
Found it! It was the main power wire to the core flipper. Resoldered and back in business , thanks! I love this forum…
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