(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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  • 11,941 posts
  • 769 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 36 hours ago by falcon950
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (6 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (6 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (6 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (6 years ago)

Post #1626 Speaker amp settings Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jbigdoggf.
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1 month later
#6506 4 years ago

Any idea where to find or how to put on the armor lighting kit ? I am hoping to pick TNA soon and love that look but mezel is sold out... thoughts ?

1 month later
#6852 3 years ago

Joined the club today... simple question

I set mine up ... playing great.

Incline is at 7.4 (not sure I totally trust the digital level)

Anyway what is recommended between 6-7 like everything else ? What is everyone else playing on ?

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#6872 3 years ago

Recently joined the club... I love this game.

Question do you have a pad of black foam under your left scoop ?

I can hit this shot but ball never drops left or right flipper what seems to be right on the money.

Only way it drops is coming out of reactor or a floater that rolls in there.

Wondering if it’s something that was added by previous owner and why.

#6874 3 years ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

They would have added it to try and make the ball go in the scoop better. The scoop is notorious for rejects. I always just fire the ball up the left orbit into the reactor when possible, and let it drop in from above...

Thank you

3 weeks later
#6909 3 years ago

I did the screen upgrade this weekend what a HuGe difference !!

Question- ordered posts from pinball life but the are a bit to big... what do you order to replace these posts ?

Are they clear or white ? From where ?

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#6911 3 years ago

Thanks Scott !!! I ordered the wrong ones !!

I can tell you my family has gotten into pinball over last two years... bk3, wonka, jp3, then TNA. Dispute my kids skepticism at first they love TNA! It’s their most played game !! We cannot wait to get Rick and Morty !!

Appreciate all the great stuff you do for the community!

#6912 3 years ago

Question,

Has anyone upgraded their monitor and then get audio distortion ? I only hear it on the super bass during reactor.

Thoughts ?

#6914 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Turn the volume on the monitor WAAAYYY down. The monitor acts as a pre-amp for the main amplifier and I bet your new monitor controller board is set at 100% volume. Turn that to 20% and reset your amp settings to your liking.
--Scott

Thank you sir !

Tried that helped was at 50 dropped to 20 but then after several games it happened Again and I started getting weird sounds during the rumbling times. Sound like when you plug in headphones and What is happening is the 3.5 jack seems to be loose and that is no bueno. So ordered a replacement to try to swap that out and give it a try.

If that doesn’t work I’ll try an HDMI audio extractor and break out to 3.5 before the monitor is involved.

#6923 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

You could also get a 3.5mm to RCA cable. The RCA jacks hold tighter to the amp than the 3.5mm I have found over time.
--Scott

Switched the vga controller... it still farted ... even at low volume. I tried my idea on the hdmi extractor, still farted at me... switched to the 3.5 to rca and so far so good.

Thank you Scott !

#6957 3 years ago

Is Scott still making a kit for the lit drops ?

1 month later
15
#7059 3 years ago

Little birthday project my daughter made over the weekend...was a lot of fun to work on it with her !

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2 weeks later
#7125 3 years ago

Is there a parts list for the drop target upgrade ?

#7137 3 years ago

Inspired by some posts on the rick and Marty thread I lit my scoop

Comet slow color changer... I like it !!

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#7140 3 years ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Hmmmmm. I like this. I wonder if you could link it to the start reactor light somehow so it isn’t always lit.

Good idea. I just put it into the accessory psw board. However if it could tie it to start reactor + active rea tor that would be cool.

Its been surprising so far how cool it loos with rest of light show as its always changing color and so is the play field.

It looks cool always but randomly seems to match more than it should which is also cool

#7163 3 years ago

So fwiw I used a comet slow charger light... it always on and slow rotating color... I like it. Also I am going to try the integrated one once I do the drop target update next week.

That said I just wire tied the light to the scoop. Will get you a picture asap tomorrow

1 month later
#7326 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hi everyone, good morning.
OK, here are some follow-ups to some things posted above.
RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.
If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.
1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html
Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.
That should be it, but I do want to assemble proper instructions with pictures and make a one product kit to help make it as easy and self explanatory as possible.
The Scoop Error:
The code in this game will do what it can to prevent the scoop from firing if a drop target is up. This is great, but if you have a flaky drop switch, this can cause the ball to get stuck in the scoop. Another way the ball can get stuck in the scoop is if the scoop opto is not functioning properly. Check all of these things and you should be good to go. I would hate to have to remove the scoop safety check, but if this keeps happening, I may have to do something different to deal with it.
--Scott

Ok all... I bought this drop target list of stuff... did the upgrades all was good until the last step. Only 2 of 3 lights actually light up. One slot is dead the other will light white but note the colors when I flip it around.

Is it possible I have a bad ribbon cable ? What else could I try ?

2 months later
#7620 3 years ago

I think a robot voice should synthesize 'lionman' at different octives when you hit the left and right flipper buttons

1 year later
#8522 1 year ago

Question I have a small scratch on my mirror blades … can I order some new ones anywhere ? Or possibly on the re run ?

#8530 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I will look into this as I know a bunch of people want then for the first run machines as well. They are amazing looking on this machine. I have a set on mine, and I also accidentally scratched them. We will need to make protectors for these too.

No clue yet. But not 10k... yikes. Spooky will ultimately come up with the MSRP for this including how many they are going to make for this re-run.
--Scott

Thanks Scott…. That would be awesome !

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