(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

2 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Amarillopinball
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Topic index (key posts)

21 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (2 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (1 year ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (1 year ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (1 year ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (1 year ago)

Post #2335 Picture of how trough should look like from Scott D. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #2336 Switch adjustment suggestions. Posted by jar155 (1 year ago)

Post #2353 instructions on speaker grille add-on Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #2423 Fanless Power Supply. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #2439 Images for those looking to swap the PSU fan Posted by OnTheSnap (1 year ago)

Post #2527 Info on replacement higher quality screen. Posted by audihere (1 year ago)

Post #2738 Great list of mods to consider. Posted by 27dnast (1 year ago)

Post #2834 Suggestions on contrast settings Posted by mayuh (1 year ago)

Post #3712 Spooky highlight playfield problem Posted by SpookyCharlie (11 months ago)

Post #4116 Info on the washers. Posted by SpookyKT (10 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#216 2 years ago

I'm watching the Dead Flip stream from Ed's house, and cracking up as Ed steps up, whistling along with that little treble chirp in the music. I was doing the same earlier.

1 week later
#238 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Knocker coil strength did not go low enough

That doesn't sound like a bug to me. What good is it unless it is scary loud?

2 months later
#592 1 year ago

Watching people jump when a nice, loud knocker fires is part of the fun.

My wife was playing AMH last night, and during the match sequence, she covered her ears. I had to tell her that AMH doesn't have a knocker since the code doesn't support it. I did complete a proof of concept project using v22 code to add knocker support, but the v23 improvements trump the knocker.

2 weeks later
#764 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Not a joke. Releasing it on cassette first and then it will be available digitally in mid to late Jan of 2018.

I sure would love to be listening to this while stuck at work today, plus waiting on my game. I'm not going to complain too much, though. Seeing #52 ready to land, even if it is out of order a bit, while I'm at #60 has me pretty stoked.

1 week later
#804 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Anyone in the 60’s or 70’s get calls that their game is ready?

I'm #60, and I haven't gotten "game is ready". I did get "What options?" a while back.

#838 1 year ago

For $15, I had to have a cassette, even if it's just a novelty. I am pretty sure that I don't own a cassette player, so I'll need digital as well.

#862 1 year ago

I received my cassette today. I don't have a way to play it.

#871 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

but Why on Cassette?

Because it's awesome. I bought it because it's a one-of-a-kind collectible and I wanted to support Scott. It would be nice to be able to play it, but I'm not as interested in buying a junk cassette player. I'll probably end up waiting for the digital download (or my game) to actually be able to listen to the music.

#876 1 year ago

Naps are awesome.

#911 1 year ago

Game is on the line and will be done in about 2 weeks.

That's #60. I guess I'm going to be listening to the music on the game soon enough. We'll see how many tracks I get to hear.

#1140 1 year ago

Have any of you looked into making the beacon brighter? Granted, I haven't played in a darkened room yet, but I don't even notice it's running unless I purposefully look up at it.

#1154 1 year ago

I installed the shaker last night, and I wanted to say I'm thoroughly impressed at how Scott is using it. It's not just on full blast all the time. There are times when it's used to create a low rumble, and then when you destroy a reactor, it appropriately lets you know. Bravo!

#1169 1 year ago
Quoted from hank527:

Anyone else have the game freeze while booting and have to cycle the power now and then?

I haven't. The only boot related software glitch I've seen is once when I made some coil changes, then exited, the game rebooted. Have you updated the code?

#1176 1 year ago
Quoted from hank527:

I just got it and it was built on the 11th, I assume I have the latest code.

I just got #60, built on the 15th, and it didn't have the latest on it. 1.0.6 is the latest released.

Also, I'm not sure if an update images the entire drive or only updates files, but if it's the former, reloading the same version could potentially fix a corrupted boot disk.

#1184 1 year ago

I have a few minor annoyances that I wanted to ask if anyone else is seeing and possibly has a fix for.

1. My scoop kickout is a bit erratic at times. Most of the time, it goes to the right flipper, but others it's as far right as the slingshot or as far left as SDTM. A few times it has dribbled out and landed on the left flipper.

2. The autolaunch sometimes shoots the ball up onto the plastics, hits the glass, trapped ball behind the right orbit gate, or jumps the fence into the reactor area. I've toyed with dialing down the coil strength, but I certainly don't want autolaunch to be weak enough to drop balls in the reactor area. That would be cheating.

3. I can't hit the start button fast enough. There is a small delay at the end of a game, and I have to wait until the Spooky screen shows before starting another game.

I'm absolutely loving the game, BTW. I've talked my wife into playing a few games, but mostly it has been just me. I have friends coming over on Saturday to give it a workout.

#1187 1 year ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

1) check and see what you scoop power is set at. possibly turn it down a bit. as soon as the opto "sees" the ball it fires the coil. if it is firing really hard it might just be bouncing it around inside the scoop before it exits.
2) check the alignment on the mechanism to make sure it is hitting the ball squarely and not off to one side. if you have access to a slow motion camera (some phones have it, some do not) you can set up a tripod on the playfield and have it fire a couple times to see the results.
3) there is a "restart" delay at the end of the game currently that has been reduced in the next release.
thanks for reaching out.

Thanks for the suggestions.

On 1), I did play with the scoop power, but it seems like "processing speed" or whatever it is called helps a bit more. I set it to normal, and I don't really feel like it loses any of the excitement of the fast kickout. I can't bring myself to try the "lame" setting, though.

#1222 1 year ago

Just curious, how do these streaming music services work for artists? Do you get paid per play, or something like that?

I see the single to purchase on Amazon, but I can't find it to stream. I did purchase the FLAC version, but if streaming it benefits Scott at all, I'm willing to do that when possible.

#1243 1 year ago

Can the LCD backlight be decreased?

#1257 1 year ago

I had a bunch of friends over last night, and TNA held up very well. Everyone seemed to love it, and I had one comment of "I might buy one."

There were only two issues that I noticed:

1. A ball was stuck on top of a drop target (might need height adjusted ) and ball search ran a couple of times. Once I saw the guy having problems, I nudged the ball loose, but it was still stuck behind the first drop target, and ball search wasn't running any more. I had to open the game.

2. I started multiball, but the game didn't detect it. The lighting and music didn't change. One ball drained quickly, and the game apparently switched players (we didn't notice until later) without a bonus countdown. There was a ball sitting in the shooter lane, while I was playing the other two.

#1258 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Does anyone have any chipping or dimpling on their playfield yet? I'm curious to find out how it's performing compared to others like CGC's. Would be good if there was none!

Dumpling, yes. Chipping, no. In my experience, Spooky's playfields are the best in the business.

#1279 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Steam Generator definitely my favorite track by far.

One of my favorites as well, and I can actually hear it in the game occasionally.

Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

my favorite track is probably "The Armics."

Also excellent, and yeah, I'm thankful for the soundtrack, since I'm also not likely to ever hear it in-game.

I also love the feel of "Nineteen Eighty Something".

Finally, "Last Mission" is suitably epic. I can only imagine hearing that while trying to work through reactor nine. I'd be shitting bricks.

4 weeks later
#1683 1 year ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

What is involved in removing the head from the cabinet?

I haven't removed it, but here's a screengrab of the cables. Sorry, I don't have better pictures on hand, and I'm at work.

At first glance, it doesn't look bad, but looking closer, there may one of the connectors that go to both the cabinet and backbox. I can't really tell for sure. See the circled connector. I can get a better pic this evening if necessary.

Fullscreen capture 2262018 84346 AM (resized).jpg
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#1686 1 year ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Anyone else have an issue with their display not working?

The display that shipped in my game did not work, but the first replacement did. In my case, it was the display panel, not the controller. I had an old tablet with a compatible display that I used to verify the controller.

My first display:
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Testing the controller with another panel:
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#1690 1 year ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

I'm loving the game even without the display working!!

Plus, Scott gave us the 7 segment displays. Even without the LCD, we still have (had) scoring.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Oh man, sorry you had to deal with that guys.

Like fattdirk said, no big deal. Stuff happens, and it was fixed promptly.

#1745 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Can anyone confirm if the 1.10.02 version is printed on the Software info on the LCD? I installed it but it only says 1.10, which doesn't seem right.

Yes, but only if you go into the test menus. The one on boot still says 1.1.0

#1748 1 year ago

For some reason, the past couple of days, I can't unsee this.
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#1772 1 year ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Stupid question - how do I reset the high scores?

I couldn't find a way to do it from the menus, either. If you reload the code, it resets them, though.

#1774 1 year ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

I did a factory reset and it didn't clear the scores.

I thought I tried this as well, but Scott says it should work. I do know for a fact that reloading the code, even the same version, via USB will reset them.

#1779 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

...but I really suck at playing it (or maybe pinball as a whole).

Max I got to was reactor 4. :-/

I think I'll up to 5 Balls.

I don't think there's any shame in that. I wanted to play through the entire game, basically listening to the entire album while playing through the game. I set my game to 9 balls temporarily. I still couldn't make it through the entire game, though. For me, it gets really tough once the orbits start alternating.

1 week later
#1910 1 year ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Anyone noticed in the Christopher Franchi presentation that the lock unter the GotG Orb was a full Danesi Lock in the prototype?

...or maybe just inline drop targets.

3 weeks later
#2226 1 year ago
Quoted from drypaint:

Has anyone successfully loaded 1.20? I get the back-up, but it stays on v1.10... Any tips?

Works fine for me. Just put the tna-gamecode.pkg file on a thumb drive, put it in the game PC's USB port, turn on the game and wait. If you don't see the Spooky updating screen, something's not right.

#2242 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Dear lord that’s complicated. Hopefully it have onscreen instructions.

It sounds harder when described than it actually is.

2 weeks later
#2377 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Did you keep the speaker mesh material on?
I’m going to I think it will help tone down the light brightness and help preserve the apparent brightness of the screen while hopefully obscuring the led strips a bit.

The mesh would normally be behind the LEDs, though. The mesh sits on the back side of the speaker panel, and the LEDs sit along the edge of the cutout.

I installed mine last night, and the jury is still out on the LEDs. I love the grills, but as audihere said, the LEDs along the bottom edge are in direct view and a bit glaring. I'm wondering what it would be like if the spacer was printed from clear filament and was solid along the inner ring area.

#2380 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Oh right. Anyway to mount it under the new faceplate on the front?

You could probably trim it down to just smaller than the grill, then sandwich it between the grill and speaker panel. I feel like it might take away from the look, though.

#2384 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I do think this feature would be a lot more discoverable on location if there was a menu on the lcd when you started a game.

There IS a screen that describes it during the attract mode rotation. That would let you know if the new software has been installed, and I'm pretty sure it describes how to start a co-op game.

#2395 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

could you just leave the mesh where it is, pull the speaker and put the new light "spacer ring" between the mesh and the speaker?

Not really. Stock, you have the speaker panel, the mesh, the original spacer, then the speaker. The new spacer sits on the back of the speaker panel and extends into the hole, so the mesh can't sit between them. You could put the mesh between the new spacer and the speaker, but the tweeter extends past the speaker mounting surface, so the mesh would end up touching the tweeter. The mesh is just a soft plastic weaved material.

Here are a couple of pictures that might help clarify things. I didn't take any of the back side, though.

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#2470 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:

the LEDs along the bottom edge are in direct view and a bit glaring. I'm wondering what it would be like if the spacer was printed from clear filament and was solid along the inner ring area.

I couldn't forget the idea, so. ..
20180504_210840 (resized).jpg20180504_211829 (resized).jpg

Custom on the left, stock on the right. 20180504_212639 (resized).jpg

#2478 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Wow custom looks so much better. You gonna sell those? I’d be in on a set!

I need to tweak a little more for a better fit, then I'll post the STL file. I will consider printing them (for a small fee) for people without access to a printer. I guess that's the same thing as selling them.

#2485 1 year ago
Quoted from audihere:

I think you may be able to simplify your design by adding a thin flange on the top to sandwich it between the original 3D printed speaker mount and the wooden speaker panel.

You're right, I could have. Since I posted that picture, I have added a channel in that section to allow more room for the overlapping section at the end of the LED strip.

I've posted the STL file for anyone who wants to print their own, and I am willing to print them for people who want me to. Both the file and ordering are available here:

#2486 1 year ago
Quoted from audihere:

Installed my fanless power supply today.

I'm jealous. I bought three replacement fans, and installed one in my AMH. It is better than before, but I'd still like it to be quieter. I don't think I could handle spending $600 to do fanless in all three of my Spooky games, though.

#2494 1 year ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

What particular filament did you use?

I used this, but there's nothing really special about it other than it being "clear".
amazon.com link »

1 week later
#2628 1 year ago
Quoted from xeneize:

herg Have you decided to offer the speaker brackets as an item in the market? I'd love a set!

Not in the Pinside market, but you can get the file (for free) to print your own, or place an order for me to print and ship them to you. Both are available on my website:

Note that my printer queue is getting really backed up at this point, and new orders will probably take around two weeks to be ready.

#2639 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

thanks for sharing the 3d print file.

You're welcome. I'm glad it is useful for you. I'm curious about how many others have printed. My own printer is going to be quite busy for a while.

3 weeks later
#2829 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Just wondering if they ALL leave the factory looking like this.

My rails looked great, but my hinges looked like yours. I haven't been bothered to clean them up yet.

2 weeks later
#3066 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

so speaker kit will be installed soon - watching this install video the speakers seemed like a huge pain to install.
Anyone with experience want to break down what went wrong? Are there no holes in the front to mount the grilles?

His game did not have the screws on the front side of the speaker panel like most do. I'm not sure if this was something Spooky didn't do until later games, but mine, #60, did have screws on the outside that I removed, then used to install the grills. I certainly would not call the install a huge pain.

#3087 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I'm about 6ft tall and i can mainly see the bottom of the leds. Is that what the difusser is expected to help and if so, is that hard to install?

Yes, the LEDs shine through 3D printed clear plastic, which ends up frosted looking after it's printed. You will still see the bottom of the opening more than the top, but you won't see direct light from the LEDs anymore. It is a direct replacement for the included black space with prongs, so it's no more difficult to install than the stock kit.

#3101 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Mine only seem to go purple, green (MB) and white.

Sounds like your red and blue are shorted to one another.

Quoted from moonduckie78:

My speaker lights only ever go blue, yellow, and white. Something not right.

Your red and green are shorted to one another.

#3105 1 year ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Same here, not working correctly also.

It seems like your right speaker has the red and green connections swapped.

It should be relatively easy for all of you guys to track down the issues, but I'm also betting if you just send Spooky support a message, they will get you a replacement.

#3115 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Where do you think this short might be located? On the driver board? On the LED strips? Possibly somewhere else?

My best guess would be at the LED strip, but without being able to get into it in person, I can't say for sure. If you disconnect the LED strip connector from the board, you can then use a meter to check for the short.

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Ah, OK so it sounds like the lights should always be purple and then just flash colors. I'll give that test a try tonight and report back, cheers.

The lights are purple when the game is in attract, but like moonduckie78 says, the best place to know is in the RGB test. If each color lights up individually when it's supposed to, the combined colors will work as well.

1 week later
#3156 1 year ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

Thanks are those printed in semi clear?

They're printed using clear filament, but 3D printed stuff using clear filament comes out semi-clear after a few layers. It looks similar to the frosted caps on bulb type LEDs, and the effect you get is much the same. I posted the files, so anyone who wants to print their own can. If you wanted, you could even try some of the other translucent colors of filament that are available. I'm curious about colors like translucent black to create a smoky filter, but not curious enough to buy a spool.

1 month later
#3356 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Ok, revising my earlier post. It happens all of the time now. (Maybe 30 games in?). I tried powering up the right flipper, but that doesn’t seem to help it.
The flipper feels snappy without the ball, but when it hits the ball, it is somewhere between wet noodle and limp ween.

Quoted from Asmig:

Have you inspected the EOS switch underneath? Might have come loose from the description of it getting worse.

TNA doesn't have EOS switches. The software controls them using PWM to vary the strength for hold. The right flipper getting tired after getting hot during constant use is a known issue. Make sure you have the latest software, which does help. Increasing flipper strength makes the coil heat up faster, which can actually make the problem worse. You can reduce the flipper hold strength, which does seem to help.

#3359 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

I should add that I did start reactor 6, so I got the second extra ball.

I just destroyed reactor 6 for the first time (WOOHOO!), and I was nowhere near your score of 7.2M. I ended up with 3.4M including a couple of 3x reactor bonuses. I was not focusing on points, but still, that's a HUGE difference.

2 weeks later
#3406 1 year ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

Heh... I have put TNA on location here, and the most reactors anyone has destroyed so far is five. So, just for fun I announced a little prize to the first person to destroy reactor 6. Nobody has managed to do it yet, but a thought hit me yesterday: It's possible to cheat a bit, in a slightly "pay-to-win" fashion:
1) Start a multiplayer game
2) Play one player focused on destroying reactors
3) Use the other player(s) only to load up locks for the main player
4) Profit!

Maybe a little, but if the only thing holding someone back is not having two balls pre-loaded in the locks, they're probably not good enough to make it through reactor 6 anyway.

#3435 1 year ago
Quoted from Strohz:

I would like to replace the LCD screen with one that has a better viewing angle since it always looks washed out. I saw the one linked in the key posts, but with so many to pick from can someone break down which numbers/specs count for trying to find a replacement? Is Lp156wf1 full-hd key? Does the brand matter or are they basically the same with the same number (Philips, lenovo, Dell, etc.)? What do the (TL) (C1) or (TP) (B1) designators after the model indicate...like if they would fit the mount? Is a B156hw01 LCD equivalent to a Lp156wf1 since the controller board linked lists both? And did you choose glossy or matte?
Thanks as all that means nothing to me and I read some people noticed a big difference where others didn't.

I installed a LP156WF1-TLB2 in mine, and to be honest, I'm underwhelmed. If I had it to do again, I'd probably skip it. You're welcome to come by sometime to see it in person.

#3440 1 year ago

With the LCD, it's not that I couldn't see any improvement. It's just that I would have liked to have seen more improvement. I'd rate the original display a 6/10 and the replacement at a 7/10. Even with the new display, dropping my eyes about a foot gives more improvement than the display change did. I'd like to see dark blacks and crisp colors all of the time, but it's really not that big of a deal.

#3442 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I would play with the display settings first before changing the screen. I think it looks fine and doesn't warrant the extra $100 plus time to swap it out.

Quoted from RobT:

It's funny how people's perception can be so different.

I find that any benefit I can get with the settings comes at the expense of contrast. Especially on the screen with the cassette tape, if I change the settings for better blacks, the cassette loses all definition. I'm not really happy with it no matter what I do. In the end, even though my reasoning may be different, I agree; I don't find it worth the money and time to swap.

#3448 1 year ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

MATCH the new viewing angle that YOU think looks best.

How did you avoid the top of the LCD cutout on the speaker panel from blocking the top of the LCD? That's the main problem I ran into when I tried this.

2 weeks later
#3496 1 year ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Oh yeah, it’s offically Keanu “Whoa!”
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Now that's what I'm talking about. I bought and received one yesterday as well, so I guess I need to get it installed.

#3499 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

Confirmed....1157 is the one!

I ran into one small issue. The retaining bumps on the sides are offset, so one of them didn't line up. I clipped it off, and is working great now. Finally, a beacon that is bright enough.

20180923_122922 (resized).jpg
#3511 1 year ago

On the bulbs, one of the two bumps is higher than the other, as you can see in the picture. The slots in the socket are the same height, though. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the socket handy.

On mine, I tried turning it 180, and it still wouldn't turn into place. It probably depends on the size of the bump on the bulb you get and on the exact shape of your socket. You might get lucky and it will turn with the bump just squeezing behind the tab on the socket. I ended up using a pair of dikes to cut off the bump shown by the arrow.

20180923_122922 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#3630 12 months ago

I like it, too. It has a few things going against it, though.

1. It's just another take on the nuclear symbol, albeit more appropriately sized.
2. You can't just buy it finished. It's a project.
3. The blank shooter rod comes from Pinball Life, which is not a bad thing, but it is likely the exact same rod already in the game, just without the black plastic knob being molded onto it.

#3632 12 months ago
Quoted from Turtle:

Thanks for a great write up herg. I was wonder, why can't you re-use the original shooter rod by removing the plastic knob?

Because it's way easier to pay $5 for the knobless one than to deal with trying to remove the original. Seriously, though, you could probably cut the black plastic off if you were determined.

#3634 12 months ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

I think it would be cool if someone did one with the triangle insignia that’s all over the game.

Swinks has a design for that on Shapeways as well. I just opted for the nuclear symbol.

#3639 12 months ago
Quoted from Marvello:

thought I'd see if anyone here has seen this issue?

Not exactly the same, but on one of my player score displays, I had the same type of symptoms. Certain segments would light sometimes, but not others. If either of the two segments was supposed to be off, then both of them would remain unlit. It turned out to be a short between the two segments. There was a solder blob that I cleaned up.

1 month later
#3855 10 months ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Anyone have to debug a TNA that won’t finish booting? Any pointers for me to try and get preliminary info for Spooky? No docs = no fun. , especially on a holiday week.

Spooky support is very good, and Chris has always been quick to respond, even on weekends and late hours. I would definitely contact them. I would at minimum, snap a picture and write a description of where it stops booting. Also, did this just suddenly start happening?

Have you tried updating the software? If you were desperate, I also have a full drive image backup, but you'd need to know Linux to use it, and you'd probably be better off waiting for Spooky to help.

2 weeks later
#4074 10 months ago

It's strange that the playfield damage issue seems to be so common now. My game, #60, has seen a lot of play with no protection, and there is no visible damage.

#4088 10 months ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

I’m curious about those who have no damage....do you have no dimples as well? This I don’t really care about but I’m just curious. To me I’d expect this to be a common thing unlike the chipping issues.

Plenty of dimples, just no chipping at posts. I do have one small spot on the right edge of the scoop where the ball repeatedly rolls in. I'll try to take a good picture next time the glass is off.

#4201 10 months ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

Today after Turing on TNA the game is not booting. Lamps turn on and stay solid. No score display power and no signal to the LCD. Any ideas? HELP!!

This is likely the PC not booting. There is a button on it that you can press to make it boot when it doesn't automatically.

1 week later
#4298 9 months ago

I'm very happy with the earplug and setting the software settings more strict. My exact settings are listed earlier in this thread.

With the default settings, I could bounce the tilt bob off the ring by hand and not get warnings.

#4312 9 months ago

Here are pictures of my earplug and my settings. Note, you will NOT want to use these settings unless you also use the earplug since they will be too sensitive with a stock tilt bob.

20181222_071748 (resized).jpg20181222_072115 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#4454 9 months ago

I installed the v1.3.0 code today, and I noticed one instance where the left sling stayed in the active position for about half a second. It was so fast that it was impossible to know whether it was actually energized or if it might have been a mechanical issue. Anyone else seen this?

1 month later
#4832 7 months ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Anyone have any ideas? Game worked fine. I lifted playfield (with game off) to check tightness of pop bumper screws. Put playfield back down... now this. Just cycles through score displays.

There is a small power button on the PC board in the bottom right of the backbox. I would push it. Sometimes the PC fails to autoboot the way it should, and you have to manually push this button to get the PC to boot.

EDIT: Hmmm... maybe the cable pushed the power button?

1 month later
#5094 6 months ago

I gotta know, who read that email exchange and thought, "I want to start a pinball company."?

4 months later
#5663 67 days ago

What about FLAC?

If buying a NIB counts, I've paid for it four different ways now:
2 Cassette
3 Amazon Music Sub

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