I have seen 59 Les Pauls people did that to...yeesh.

I'm in.

At last.

No. I traded for one from the original run. Been wanting one for far too long.

At one point I thought Scott mentioned putting together a kit to do the lit Drop Targets, but I haven't seen it listed on Pinball Life.
I'd love a kit for that and for the speaker lighting. Flipper buttons, too.

If it was shipped, odds are real good the settings shifted on the ride.

Insulated Electric Tape would be better than plain old electrical Tape.

Hey Scott. Where can I order a backboard Plastic? Mine looks like it met a few balls when someone lifted the hood. Would like to get a clean and shiny new one.

Thanks.

The Original is not much better, honestly. Covers just over 1/2 of the rail on the right edge of the PF.

Yep.

Would love an RGB one. Always look at that shooter gauge piece and wonder what cool stuff could be done there.

I am shocked at how slow all my other machines feel after I play TNA for a few days!

Merry Christmas to you and RHG. Hope you and the family had a great day.

It doesn't need one. It has an amazing sound system built in.

AND it has a Jukebox Mode that plays the soundtrack and other tracks from Scott's catalog.

Check the magnet on your speaker carefully. They do a great job of collecting missing hardware.

Dead Flip Discipline has been my best strategy to date on TNA. Panic Flipping kills you.

It's a lot like Flash Gordon that way.

As far as the Target Bank goes, as I am setup right now, the Right Flipper is the safest way to pick those off.

My biggest problem is getting into the scoop. It is not hungry on my machine.

It's the Butthurt Flipper!

Everybody wave to the Butthurt Flipper!

*Waves*

Hi Butthurt Flipper!

That doesn't explain why they worked so hard to replace them for everyone. Pretty much incongruous with your premise of them not giving a fuck.

There would have been equal to greater uproar if they delayed shipping until all new glass arrived.

I get being frustrated, but asserting that they DGAF is bullshit.

You are assuming that you don't get immediately eaten by a Grue.

Vinyl don't fit in your back pocket.

Also, my Dragon doesn't know what to do with an LP.

I need to talk Scott into sending me a copy of a System of Parts.

Yeah...that rivet should be below the contact line of the ball. That rubber looks like it is peaking out a bit and getting worn.

Pull the plastic and see if you can loosen the fastener for the rail and move it out a touch. IF it is maxed out, then try loosening the star post a tiny bit and see if you can move it just enough to clear.

BUT, before doing either, make sure that rail is 90 degrees to the PF. If it is over 90, bend it back to square and check for clearance before making the previous adjustments.

Other option would be a slightly smaller rubber that won't have as proud a profile.

Shouldn't really be a tough fix at all.

There are 2 Wood Screws and 2 Nuts holding the Plastic above the pop bumper on.

Remove them.

Look down at the Pf, behind the ball guide. You will see some hex head wood screws holding the guide to the PF.
BEFORE loosening these, make sure the guide is sitting at NO MORE than 90 degrees from the PF Surface.

IF at 90 (or less), loose the Hex Screws and see if you can move the rail 'In' towards the center of the PF. Loosen the last one and the one adjacent to it a bit as well.

BE CAREFUL not to scratch the PF when doing this. A small bit of upward force while to adjust the rail will keep this from happening.

(Make more sense now?)

If it is over 90, bend it to 90 or just a hair inside that, might be enough to get the clearance you need.

Sure. But it wouldn't mean nearly as much.

Once you get it replaced, good time to learn to repair the old one to have a spare for your spare.

Anyone know where you can source the brass colored finger that triggers the drops?
I have had 2-3 break on my TNA and don't want to have to buy a full drop target assembly to get that goofy actuator.

Thanks.

Damn! That looks fantastic. If I had room for another on my machine, I'd be hounding you for one!

Quick question for Scott or anyone else who knows:

The Arm / Finger that trips the drops. Is it the L or the R version in TNA?

Thanks

Nobody knows the Lore or the Backstory;

Who is that girl?
Doesn't she know how to parallel park a tank?
Why are her glasses upside down?
Doesn't that strap chafe?

Installed speaker light kit today and noticed my gates up top aren't functioning now. What did I screw up?

Thanks.

Will snap some photos when I open it back up tomorrow and dick with it a bit.

Does the collar on the power knob turn. It looks kinda indexed in the photo...

Yes. Thanks for the help. Turns out one pin wasn't making good contact. Just had to remove/reseat the wire in the connector and plug it back in.

Would love more info on the replacement controller. Link would be even sweeter.

Glad you got it workingproperly, looks great.

Had some people over last night and someone fired up a 4 Player game on my TNA.
At Player 4, the Machine lost track of scoring - P3 was flashing, but screen said P4. No Scoring, though. Machine never caught up after that. No scoring at all.

Power cycled and now the game will not stop booting.

Ideas?

Not on newest code. I can't update / download code here.

It's got whatever version was on it when I grabbed it. Machine wasn't on for more than an hour or so.
But it was the first time anyone tried to start up a 4 player game on this one since i have had it.

I will go through it this afternoon to see if it is something physical and keep an eye on the optos and their connections. Thanks for the tip.

Reseating all the opto connections got me out of the Boot Cycle.

No scoring, though.

EDIT : Disconnected and reconnected everything in the backbox. Back to working properly now. Weird as nothing was obviously loose or unplugged. But running properly now. Thanks for mentioning the Optos re. Booting Cycle. That was definitely an issue.

The scoring displays were locked into the Test / Strobe effect.

After disconnecting and reconnecting all the wiring in the backbox, everything went back to normal.

Thanks again.

How do I fix knockdowns? My Right Flipper (Brand New Coil) suffers terribly from knockdowns on incoming/multiple ball strikes.

Thanks Scott. You da man.

Can we get a 'Triple Ramp Scoring' Mystery Award?

There are a decent number of pins in Montana and we aren't too far for you.
Next time you are looking for something PM me. I know a bunch of collectors and a few operators with big collections. And getting machines to Billings isn't hard.

Still having non-stop issues with my center drop in the drop target bank.
New coil and adjusting the trip mech doesn't help for more than a few games. Then it won't drop once a ball is behind it.

Is it possible this is just fatigue (Fold Over piece that sets on the moving plate) and replacing the entire sub-assembly is the only answer?

Fixed the opto issue on the front drop. That was the left rail not being set deep enough and obstructing the opto signal path. Now that is out of the way and the Front Drop is no longer starting the Ball Check Feature.

Missing having this one in the lineup...it's my favorite dick kicker.

Thanks Scott.

I have some new brass fingers here...but swapping them out didn't help.
It seems like on this mech it's that Square Finger that folds over the plate on the backside of the slave coil.
It opens up a bit after a few plays and the coil doesn't get full throw. Not the easiest thing to adjust and I am sure numerous adjustments over time have fatigued that thing.
If the brass activation fingers had a slot instead of holes on the base for mounting, I could cheat them forward a bit and maybe get by with an adjustment at the base rather than the tip of the finger.

EDIT: Was able to pull a plate off another Drop Slave Assembly and replace the tired one. I also added a new finger that I gave a tiny bend to the base of to extend the throw. 3 Games in and so far so good.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions on this Scott. Will add that improved piece to my cart for my next order.

-G

Precision Halos on mine. Would not go back to stock flippers.

>>So recently, each time I power up game, the above sequence occurs. No credit dot, but I got a "Drop Target 1 Down Error".

Check that your ball guides / rails in the lock area aren't disrupting your signal path. Have fixed 2 now that had rails that sat too proud and barely allowed the optos to communicate.

Few adjustments with the ol' trusty Estwing fixed that issue pretty quickly.

No. You do not.

You can, if you choose to. And like with the factory flippers, it will take longer before fade develops once you do.

But they do nothing but improve play. You obviously haven't used them on any machines or you would know that already. It is simply a better design, mechanically and in material.

I have them on Rick and Morty and 4-5 other machines. Airballs can be adjusted out, no problem. Haven't had any issues with my R&M. In fact, I have been able to reduce the airballs I was getting.

To each their own. But I have nothing but good results using them and the only machine I have powered down on is my Tron. Those ramps are tough to replace and the design lends to them cracking even with the stock flippers. Low play HUO machine and I don't plan on keeping it here much longer. So, I dropped the power on that one.

Someone posted a hack with a piece of Velcro tape that reportedly helps. It's in the last page or two (link to the original post).

Ah...I was reading 'eject' as 'reject'. Must need more coffee.

For the feed from the scoop I would service that mech and make sure everything in there is fresh and snug. I know mine gets a bit random when I have been playing long sessions. I haven't dug into servicing the mech though as the Ball Save keeps it fair imo.

It's ok.
I like the pretty colors.
But.
The ramp shots are impossible to hit.

With a hammer. Worked a charm on my machine.

Great Vid.

None NEED them.

But all the machines I have them in benefit from having them.

You must not understand Physics.

It's ok. Not everyone has a brain for that sort of shit.

Maths?

You are adorable.

This guy gets it.

Please do. I have this exact same issue. *Right flipper only. Knockdowns on any fast ball and during multiball.

*Edited*

You can usually pull the flipper plate and back it out from the back end on those screws. Either with a vise grip or by using a dremel to make a slot for a regular screwdriver.
They sit pretty proud on the bottom of the plate.

Check the height of the Ball Guides in the Lock Area.
I chased this problem on my machine for a while and here, it turned out to be one of my ball guides sitting proud/high and breaking the opto path.

I ended up with a Butter cab TNA.

There is definitely a difference to the Butter v Non Butter Spooky Cabs. Doesn't add to gameplay, of course.
But, the cabinet looks more like furniture than a pinball machine.