(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (2 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (2 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (2 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (2 years ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (2 years ago)


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#44 2 years ago

In at #85! Mine is destined for location/league play as well.

#84 2 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

They haven't said.

Quoted from hocuslocus:

did they say when they were going to start production? I'm sure it's listed somewhere.

All they've said is "before the end of the year", though Charlie mentioned that we may be pleasantly surprised on the stream last night.

Wild speculation time:

I predict they start manufacturing TNA in early Sept. and the that the first 50 are shipped at Expo in mid October.

1 month later
#240 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballlew:

thenotrashcougar
Scott was is the highest reactor that you have gotten too or know of?

...with the glass on!

1 week later
#317 2 years ago

So what's the deal with the mirror blades that Scott had on his machine at Expo? Are these being offered to us common folk?

#333 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

A little birdy told me a code update was going to drop today! Hope it's for real!

Awesome! I wonder if it will make the flash rate on the active player's score display faster, and maybe also make the GI lights pulsate when the ball is waiting for the player in the trough... Just sayin'.

#335 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

My sources say that those are not going to be included in the code update, but these have been noted as possible enhancements. The player flash rate will likely not change, but lightshow updates will sprinkle out here and there.

I'm just going off the videos I've seen, once I receive my game (#85 baby!) I'll feel it out in person.

Maybe the flash rate on the score could match the player's pulse! That would be amazing.

#337 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Now you are getting crazy!
This update that is coming is mostly a bug fix and enhancement update for our early operators. It's not a huge one, but it will be handy for them. I am so excited to see how many of these games are going straight to bars and arcades. It's pretty cool.
--Scott

This game was born for competition! Mine will be hitting our restaurant/bar location where we host our league nights and occasional tournaments right after my xmas break (assuming I get it before then).

I'm going to goop my "electric pink golden sac rac" to the pf glass so it will always be there.

It should also be in the lineup for the Alberta Provincial Pinball Championships tournament in late January.

1 month later
#470 2 years ago

I’m ready to order my shaker etc. and ship to Spooky but want to include the new speaker grill kit also.

Any idea when those will be available?

#514 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

you will get deeper in the game. When I first got mine I was never getting past reactor 2. I now regularly make it 4 deep and have seen 5.
It honestly is one of the bonuses of this game that keep you coming back for more. I just want to hear the next track Then I want to not fail and actually hear it for a bit more the next time I make it there.
I am a decent player, but I know with practice I will eventually see the end of the game. (It will take years, but is an accompliable goal, esp since default EBs happen at 3 and 6?)

I agree. Gives you another reason to keep striving for later reactors. Better bet is to setup the game easier if you are never able to progress to later reactors.

Reminds me of playing endless hours of Tunnels of Doom back in the day (early graphical role-playing game for the TI 99 4/A) when we'd all get so excited when the color scheme would change when a deeper lever of the dungeon was reached. ...it's the simple things.

#522 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I believe each reactor has it's own track.

That's the beauty of it, nobody really knows for sure because nobody's been all the way there yet!

It's all just rumour and mystery. Love it!

PS> For the record, I predict that if you blow the 9th reactor TNA will overload the shaker, subwoofer, and LEDs in an awesome explosion of lights/sound/motion that totally destroys the game but is so incredible that it's totally worth it! Game over man, game over.

#536 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Dude, you sound like you're as old as I am!
Cheers!

I prefer the term "classic".

#579 2 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

It knocks when you get an extra ball during game play . You get an extra ball for making it to reactor #3 . It also knocks if you get the match at the end of the game .

I love knockers!

I hope it knocks 3 times when you put up a GC score! Old school!

1 month later
#920 2 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

The supply we've been using the entire 5 years of Spooky is as robust a model as you can get... anything without a fan is either WAAAY more expensive, or not as stout to handle spikes. This supply is not cheap, but it's super reliable. Trust me, we've looked high and low for a fanless comparable version we trust. We stay with this one for a reason.
We are currently getting some help on an all in one power supply that has no fan (custom made for Spooky by a super cool tech / mfg couple). But, going to take time, testing, $$$, etc.
I agree with Scott... turn it up and play it!!!

...or remove the fan and MELT IT DOWN!

#928 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I just said that it plays great at 6.5 degrees. All leg casters flat are a good starting point for this angle.

Just to confirm, if you attach the legs with all casters fully in (lowest setting), then the game should be at 6.5 degrees based on the shape of the cabinet alone, which is also the recommended playfield angle?

#935 2 years ago

Folks with games in hand - does the PF have Scott's signature on it somewhere under the clear?

I had requested this multiple times and the recent interview with Scott on the Head 2 Head Pinball Podcast kind of made it sound like it might be there, but wasn't conclusive.

#937 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

It's not there. It would be very hard to make this happen as I do not work at the Spooky facility.
--Scott

That's a real bummer Scott! It seems to me that having you live in a small shipping container outside the Spooky factory so you could sign playfields as they come in would have been a reasonable solution.

Ah well, no biggie. You've done enough sir! Don't worry about it at all.

(...my game is #85, just sayin')

#947 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Scott spent the night at my house once. I haven't washed the sheets yet. I could cut them up into little pieces and sell them, if there's any interest.
No offense, Chuck, but no one wants the sheets you've used. I've burned them.

Hey, my request was clean and respectful!

...but, you know, if my cabinet happened to have a little swatch of bedsheet stapled to the inside, well... (#NoHomo)

#1011 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

There are no dark parts on TNA, and the add on lights would be really close to the deck because of how close the glass is. I don’t get it at all.

My sentiments exactly, but in all things we must go a step too far before we realize it was fine without it. Interested to see how it turns out though.

I do think a plasma-cap for the pop bumper would be perfect on this game, only lights when the reactor is started.

#1012 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I've never been a fan of pinstadium lights, but I agree with the nut pinch. To each their own I suppose.

I’m a partial convert, but really depends on the game and the color and brightness of the light bars.

On many games it really makes the otherwise obscured pf art and plastics pop, while also reducing the apparent brightness of the inserts to a more tolerable level. Overall the effect is similar to old school incandescent lighting where the GI and the inserts were much more in balance in terms of relative brightness. Since the advent of led lighting it’s pretty common for the inserts to be distractingly bright enough to affect gameplay, which is what flashers are for.

#1091 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballlew:

It is to hold coins that you are betting with your friends, every player puts a $1 coin on it and high score of all the players takes the coins.
For a more advanced use see this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/13#post-4112608

I'm semi-permanently mounting my hot pink rack on my TNA that is going on location to the bottom rightish edge of the PF glass using this...

goop (resized).jpg

#1120 2 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

People actually give a shit about that?

Like all "awards" shows, it's all about stirring up some drama. Fun for some people to root for your favorites, etc.

I could care less and won't be watching, but I hear people like to watch football too.

18
#1144 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Is the idea that once we get a TNA, we can continue to built/modify it along with new features added on new versions of it? It would be good to always have upgrade kits so we can maybe get a chance down the road to have 'unique' TNAs just by how they are setup or configured with different upgrades? The list of upgrades is endless i think... but would be good to have official upgrade kits instead of 3rd party, anyways, just a thought.

I'm going to convert mine into a homebrew Dolly Parton pin!
...the circle is complete!

#1212 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Scott, I'm just curious why you decided to drop the signature BEEP...BEEP down an octave in the new version of the song. Was there some technical reason? Or did you just like the way it sounded better?

Oh no! You can't go messing with the music man! I demand the original cut be an option in the settings!

1 week later
#1351 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Yeah, I think they are going to hit 500 plus on TNA.
The reality is the thing earns VERY well on location. Since I was an early adopter you always assume at first it is just the novelty factor and things will dip off over time (as more games get out on route). Reality is, that the earnings are as strong as ever and from both casuals and pinheads alike. Despite there being at least 3 TNA on route in WI, earnings are just as strong as the first month.
As more operators get more confidence and hear more similar stories then they will buy also. Of note that working on and maintaining TNA has been super easy and a breeze to wipe down and keep clean (do to street level). Production quality is top notch IME for TNA. I know people had early concerns about 'garage feel of spooky' but this is a whole new level of quality and construction. As more people change that perception, then sales will fuel more.
I think most sales up till now are home market fueled, but expect the route sales to really explode over the next year.

About to put mine out on location and am wondering what settings you're using for the flipper strength, slingshots, etc.?

I'm going to put some protection in the shooter land and in front of the left scoop kickout as well. I noticed the "new playfield" dimpling is pretty intense in front of that scoop.

I'm a little worried about the all the connectors used in this game, combined with the intense/sustained shaker motor activity (and sub, for that matter). Seems like connectors working lose could become a real problem (hope not). Do you have a shaker in your machine, and if so did you dial it down in intensity to perserve the game?

#1372 2 years ago
Quoted from davijc02:

Chill homie. Just said I was a little underwhelmed that’s all. Apparently it’s old code anyhow.

...underwhelmed?!? Didn't you see that giant rocket fly over your head putting that shiny sports car in to orbit when you blew reactor 9?? What more do you want man??!

#1380 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I am running newest beta code which has all coil settings at Bryan Kelly recommendations (I believe same as previous code, just turned down the slingshots 1 or 2). The slingshots turned down gets rid of multiballs under sling rubber effect that happened early on.
No shaker as I NEVER use a shaker on a route game. Things get loose over time so no reason to expedite that with stupid shaking IMO.
Playfield is rock solid! Dimpling happens on EVERY playfield. Wear is non-existent on TNA IME and no real need for any mylar that I have seen. I mean, feel free to put it down, but from what I see, this is the best playfield out there and tough.
Connectors are all with a dab of hot glue to keep them in place. I have had the game since Sept and no issues with any coming loose.

Ahem. I assume you meant to type "awesome shaker" and just flubbed it up a bit.

Yeah, think I'll disable the shaker on location and just turn it on for league nights and tournaments.

I've reduced my slings to '6', and the trough kickout to "20". Seems to work fine without banging the ball through the side of the wood on the shooter lane as much. Tried lowering the main flippers but they felt pretty soggy below the default "30". I was surprised to see these are using the same FL-11629 coils as my STTNG used. Of course, STTNG was shooting the ball across a steeper widebody PF and up steep ramps.

...I assume Scott's SW is freq-modulating these down a lot from full power though or those standups would be pulverized in no time.

#1386 2 years ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

I can’t decide if I should get a shaker or not. I’m generally not a huge fan but for some reason I’m tempted.

It's really well integrated in this game. Super spinner is awesome as is the whole reactor-is-critical mode.
I will try it with the shaker disabled and report back, I could see the big bass being almost enough as well, depending.

#1451 2 years ago

Okay, spent a few hours this afternoon getting TNA ready for the street. Targets are all adjusted super sensitive, decals applied, etc.
I futzed with the monitor settings to try to get it to have some improved contrast / less backlighting when viewed while playing (looks good if you crouch down to the glass level). Then, buttoned it all up and suddenly had no sound whatsoever.

Thought, that was weird, maybe I bumped a cable while I was pressing the monitor buttons or something. Then I realized, hey, the audio cable DOES run through the monitor for some reason. So finally figured out that if your press the left/right buttons on the back of the monitor it changes the (pre-amp?) volume and that can make a dramatic difference in the volume of the overall system.

So, now I have some questions/observations...

- I find it difficult to find a setup where the door vol. button provide much range in volume, generally it's either nice and quiet at 1, 2, 3 but then doesn't really pop at 8, etc, OR it's really loud at 5 and insanely loud at 8, etc.
- What levels should I be using on the monitor volume and the amplifier speaker volume, roughly speaking, in order to provide the widest possible range of volume selection using the door buttons while preserving the best overall audio quality?
- I find that the giant sub is so overwhelming that I have to adjust it's volume literally about 10-15 degress up from zero. That provides a nice low-end thump without becoming too boomy. Is that okay/expected?

How does this complex (and totally freakin' amazing) audio system work, anyway??

#1456 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

For monitor adjustments I just changed brightness down to 30. Looks good and crisp. He rest of the settings are default.

I think I settled on about 30 brightness and 100 contrast. Still bugs me though, I'm wired that way. I even contemplated using some nylon spacers to tilt the monitor back inside the cabinet to improve the PQ but I don't think that would do it based on the viewing angles. I also noticed that game is upscaling all of its content from some lower resolution, not sure if this is for HW performance reasons or trying to give it a more chunky lower-res appearance.

Just nitpicking here, I always felt that the LCD was extraneous anyway, though it's nice to have in diagnostics. The overall package is incredible.

The way the sound pushes right through you and the integration with the RGB lighting, sub and the shaker makes this easily the most immersive experience in pinball. Seriously, this is on a whole other level - I don't even want to look at other games right now. Maybe I can put Scott's music on my Metallica so I'll want to play it again? Good thing this one is going on location in a week or I might never play my other games again.

This game is the work of a friggin' genius. The music is incredible and sticks in your head, becomes the soundtrack to your life.

#1462 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Guys,
The display is purposely supposed to look gritty, and glitchy. I was also trying to make it look like it was on a CRT and we (David Van Es and I) were having some fun. The monitor itself outputs at 1366x768, but the animations are smaller than that and up-scaled to get that look.
As for the monitor adjustments, there is something called Gamma in the adjustments, that when turned on, will make the contract ratio better. I recommend that.
Also there was a question about the audio. The monitor does have a pre-amp volume setting in it. I have been playing around a bunch with mine and I turned it down to 10 on the monitor which seemed to give it a better range. I then turn my amp all the way down to prepare for adjustment. Then go into music test with the volume up to 11 and start slowly turning the amp up to where it is loud, but not clipping or cutting out. The sub volume knob will be pretty low. Also, the Bass knob should be almost all the way down as that is for the upper speakers, those should be set to output all of the mids and highs.
Honestly, though, don't mess with the amp from the factory settings as it is tough to tune, which is why it is hidden away.
I hope my ramblings makes sense, I have not had enough coffee today yet.
--Scott

Thanks for the quick reply Scott!

I went through the process you suggest (left my monitor vol. at 11 though, for obvious reasons ), and I can pretty much leave the amp at full volume now without detectable distortion. I dropped it back a bit though to increase the overall range of vol. avail on the door buttons (more lower vol. variability at the slight expense of extreme vol. at the top end).
Amazing sound on this game!

Monitor settings are now at 25 brightness and 100 contrast, with the Gamma=On.

I did a little experiment tilting the screen and it looks like a 1.5" spacer on the top screw holes would provide enough angle to the screen to make the gamma perfect for players of my height, anyway. You'd also need to use a short spacer on the bottom and cut it to angle to avoid bending the screen mounts, and some additional material to block light leakage from inside the cabinet on all sides, etc. Might be something I pursue in the future if the game comes home into my collection. Don't want to void the warranty when it's going on location.

#1466 2 years ago

thenotrashcougar I believe I may have just found a uniquely Canadian bug in the SW.

Trying to setup the coins so left is $1 (Cdn "Loonie"), and the right is $2 (Cdn "Toonie").

Coins per Credit: 1
Left coin value: 1
Right coin value: 2

But it only gives one credit when I put either the left side $1 coin in (correct), or the right side $2 coin in (should be 2 credits).
I ran the switch test (after muttering something about "inspected by Charlie" lol) but they both register as unique switches as they should (sorry Charlie!).

Be great if this could be fixed soon as this machine will be on location next weekend and $2 coins are very common here.

#1473 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Soooo you have a sick day coming up soon, right?

No need, he works from home.

...besides, you can have a "TNA break" in far less time time than it takes a pack-a-day smoker to finish a cigarette.

#1476 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I’m thinking that being able to steal locks left over from the last player really negates the need to implement some sort of “uniform experience” by implementing a tournament mode.

After playing this game for a week now I'm inclined to disagree. I think a tournament mode makes sense for things like ensuring all players receive the same non-contextual Mystery awards in the same order.

Getting to steal a previous player's locked balls is certainly nice, but locking balls is not usually that difficult if you are careful. It certainly doesn't make up for one player receiving "Max Bonus Multipliers" in mystery when the others do not. Plus, if you know what the next mystery award is ahead of time you might decide to make collecting that a priority vs something else (changes your strategy). But the game also has contextual mystery aways like giving you another tilt warning if you are down one (or is it all)?

On the surface, I might say that tournament mode could have the mystery awards follow the same order everytime, minus any contextual awards. That way everyone knows in advance the order and can alter their strategy accordingly.

Maybe thenotrashcougar can comment further though, might not be that simple in this game.

#1477 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

TNA seems more suited to competitive play than single player games. Except of course to practice to get better for the competitions.

Single player is plenty exhilarating on its own. One more game, one more game, one more game!
But multiplayer should be amazing.

#1480 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Valid point... I hadn't played it enough to think about the Mystery award and was focusing on the random target for reactor completion. I tend to agree with you now and I'm sure we're going to see this more and more in tournaments in the future.

It's interesting as you would *think* being able to know what targets are going to be required to kill the next reactor might offer some kind of advantage vs. not, but in reality other variables would play a larger role in deciding your strategy. Basically, you always want to be in multiball when you kill the reactor for the 3X (or 4X) multiplier anyway, but if you are ball 3, player 4 and don't need that many pts, it might not be worth setting up a multiball for it vs. sniping with one ball in play, etc.

I do find that the "multiball all the time" mantra I've heard isn't really the best approach for me. I have a really hard time hitting the Start Reactor scoop with 3 balls in play, and and even harder time shooting the outer loops to get to the top with 3. There's always a ball launching from ball save that gets in your way and it's way too chaotic. I prefer to setup the reactor with 1 or 2 balls running, then start 3 ball multiball and finish it off. I'm guessing that will be a hallmark of an advanced player, one who can execute all the required shots with 3 balls in play. I'm looking forward to seeing Elwin play this thing. The "Elwin pose" is pretty useless for me as there's always a ball smashing down onto your nicely trapped ones messing things up.

A whole new set of skills at play here - it helps to have the reaction time of a heavily caffineated squirrel! So friggin' great!

EDIT> I just realized reading this that I should let the multiball balls drain intentionally when trying to get the left scoop or criticalize the reactor and use a fast skill shot plunge on the ball saves to get there.

#1487 2 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

...and the code is smart enough to not fire the launcher at an empty shooter lane if you've already plunged.

I prefer that, it raises the intensity a bit knowing how close you came to getting "plunged".

#1490 2 years ago

Anyone know if TNA uses any fuses, and if so, what types/sizes?

#1495 2 years ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Installed my shaker today and after a little breakdown why it wouldn't start to work this is one of the best integrations I've yet seen... or 'feeled'.
When the reactor is critical and youre getting that constant vibration like the whole building is going to collapse: Great.
Couldn't stop grinning. My son was busting with joy also.
Kept playing for multiple hours today (usually I max. do 3 games and get back to work).
Edit: BURSTING!!! Not busting. XD

Yeah it's pretty intense. My cat loves to sit on the glass and chase the ball around while I play and he's fine with the critical reactor mode but anytime I blow a reactor he jumps off the game. Always comes back for more though. Classic!

17
#1505 2 years ago

TNA #85 on location at the Atlantic Trap & Gill in Calgary, Alberta!

As promised I mounted a hot pink Golden Sac Rack onto the PF glass using some Goop!

Thanks again to Scott and Spooky Pinball for making this amazingly fun game!

IMG_3225 (resized).JPGGot yer Sac Rack?

#1516 2 years ago

My lower flipper springs have both broke at the plate now, the left one twice. It’s a major PIA when the location is 35min. away.

I have replacement Wms ones I can put on but wondering if I need to drill the plate hole bigger and file it smooth?

24
#1600 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I know, I know, that just disappoints me greatly. If player leaves a ball or two in the lock at the end of their ball, it is their fault. I will probably have to add the dump logic though.

...and while you're at it add a nice center ramp that smoothly returns the ball to the right flipper. NOT!!!

Stick to your guns Scott! Don’t even think about making lock stealing optional. If some wussies are too scared of it let them pick other games. I look forward to picking TNA and destroying them as they hunker in their little balls of lock stealing fear!!

...embrace the lock stealing and it shall set you free.

#1677 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I don’t think that you ever will hit some of the more wicked ones.

That's just cruel and incredibly awesome if true!

#1692 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The LCD was not originally going to be in the game, but I found it easier to just put it in there for service mode and other stuff. It is not critical to the gameplay.

That's what I've been saying all along!

I do realize though, that some people would look at it sideways if it didn't have a screen in the middle, because apparently, that's "pinball" now...

That's right, I'm THAT guy... "get off my lawn with your fancy movie clips and org-chart rulesets!"

#1696 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Ok, good. What about a full playfield protector? I know some would not want that but I would like to keep it minty fresh...

You'd have to make one yourself. Don't see how it could hurt anything.

My PF is dimpling like crazy. I know, I know, all NIB games do this, eventually it won't be as noticeable, etc. etc.
I think the dark coloring mid-playfield highlights it a bit as well.

#1744 2 years ago

Can anyone confirm if the 1.10.02 version is printed on the Software info on the LCD? I installed it but it only says 1.10, which doesn't seem right.

#1762 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Anyone know how this is qualified?

It depends on which reactor you are on. Reactor 1 both will be lit when the reactor is started. Not sure if it's reactor 2 or 3 only one will be lit at a time and alternates based on bumper and sling hits I think.

But you have to have the reactor started for them to block the ball at the top to dump it into the reactor.

-12
#1790 2 years ago

On behalf of the staff at the restaurant/bar location where my TNA is at, I'd like to suggest perhaps a configuration to replace the giant bass drops at ball end with a really cool bonus meltdown sequence (still fast, but awesome) that might not be heard throughout the entire building due to the low frequencies.

The ball drops are great but everytime someone loses a ball you can hear it anywhere in the building, which is pretty disruptive in a publc venue that isn't just a barcade.

#1794 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

On behalf of everyone else, maybe your TNA is just at the wrong location.

Maybe. Really it’s only the bass drops that are noticeable away from the game, plus they are so frequent and frankly, get rather tiresome. I said make it optional, geez.

I could detune the bass but the rest of the sound is ruined.

#1805 2 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Just turn your game down? You're seriously asking Scott to change something in the game because some customers don't want to hear the bass. Turn the volume down if people don't want to hear it. Work on a headphone jack, whatever, but take a little initiative instead of thinking the game should change to cater to you.

Quoted from cooked71:

On behalf of everyone else, maybe your TNA is just at the wrong location.

Quoted from TheBEAVR:

Or just put a potentiometer in there, but I'd vote you stop being a sissy.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Or block the ports in the bottom of the cab...

Quoted from iEatHands:

To give you some serious advice, you're just going to have to turn off the sub because that bass drop at the end of the ball kicks ass at any volume level! This is the thin knob on the amp closest to the coin door which controls the sub volume. Then maybe you can adjust a little more bass into the head speakers so it still sounds somewhat OK.. This will stop the booming bass at the end of the ball and scott doesn't need to adjust the game for one person.

Look, I totally get the negative gut reactions to my suggestion, but hear me out a bit.

First, I'm not some lightweight who doesn't like loud games/music. I love loud and proud games. All the games in my personal collection have powered subs on them, even the SS classics. I sound-proofed my basement rec room for the express purpose of playing pinball loudly when the kids were asleep. One of main things I love about TNA is how the sound package sucks you in to the intensity of the experience.

But looking at this from an operator's perspective ONLY:

Stuff that is freaking awesome at home during occasional play is not always a good idea with near continuous play in a public space.

My location is an old 1970's theatre building converted to a large restaurant/bar. There are 10 games in a back room. Volume levels on the games are high because it is a group of local collectors and competitive players putting our own games out there so they are dialed in, clean, and fun to play. The place has sports on during the day/evening, on weekends there are live bands on the stage. So it's not some super quiet place where any reasonable volume would be too loud. The pinballs are loud, league nights are like attending a rock concert. Normally, the pinballs are barely noticeable in the main room, more of a background din off in the distance. And then TNA came to town.

The fact of the matter is that you can't isolate low frequencies, they travel far and wide. The most noticeable low frequencies in TNA are the bass drops after a ball drains. Even that would be fine except they are going off every 30-50 seconds, all day long (well hopefully). You can hear them anywhere in the building, distinctly.

As much as I like the bass drops when I'm playing, I wouldn't fault anyone for not wanting to be subjected to it continuously all day long. So what to do?

Most operators would lower the game volume low enough so it's not a problem, which will destroy the intensity of the game experience for the players. I'm more of a purist and that doesn't sit right with me at all. Option B is to gut the sub settings/setup so the sound is tinny and thin. Also not doing the game credit. Ultimately both of these options will reduce player enjoyment and end up reducing income on the game, which is clearly bad for the operator and Spooky.

So my suggestion is simply that if an ALTERNATIVE, COMPLETELY OPTIONAL ball-end sequence was available that avoided the low-frequencies, in order to make it more appropriate for continuous play in a public space, the game would be better accepted at more locations and could still be setup to provide the best audio experience to players.

Don't we all want more pinball, and especially TNA, on location? Setup so you can enjoy the sound package?

Scott is a creative genius IMHO, I'm sure he could come up with something truly amazing.

Again, just a suggestion, purely from an operator's perspective.

Anyway, thanks for reading this far. Go ahead, shoot the messenger...

#1806 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

quick suggestion.
Have the factory put a white mark on edge of dial for suggested amp settings.
Thins get moved in transit or when reaching around in the cab. Nice to have it for reminder of best practice on position.

Seems like a good idea, but my game came with the sub levels completely mis-adjusted though. Not sure if they just got bumped or something after the factory set them up. I've got a fair amount of experience dialing in audio equipment so wasn't a big deal for me to tune mine once I figured out the monitor also had volume controls that were important in the process. It's also good to be able to adjust things for your environment, game in a corner, etc.

#1821 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Once you've been around for awhile & have played different pins from all different eras, you begin to realize what you like. Everyone is different, so take other people's opinions with a grain of salt.
I have come to the realization that I prefer games that kick my ass & frustrate the hell out of me. Games like that keep you coming back for more & eventually make you a better player. The harder a game is, the less likely you will get tired of it. Easy pins bore the hell out of me. When you keep getting pissed off & the game keeps fighting you back, you keep pressing start over & over. You want to do better & show that pin what's up! At least that's how I feel.
Personally I love early 80's solid state Bally/Williams pins, due to difficult gameplay, killer sounds & the incredible fantasy/sci-fi artwork. Great to play with friends as well as the games go quickly. There is no better era in pinball IMO. Think Flash Gordon, Eight Ball Deluxe, Centaur, etc etc.
Modern pins are pretty sweet as well, but if the gameplay isn't difficult, it better have some well-executed competitive code. I've stopped chasing the "next new thing", I could care less what's next from Stern. Just give me modern pins that are already developed, proven & great for competitive play. Think Ironman, Metallica, TWD, Tron. Basically anything Lyman coded. Yes I am a Lyman prude, for good reason.
That's why TNA fits the bill for so many reasons. Classic early 80s design & brutal gameplay, with modern lighting & sound. The best of both worlds. I expect it will never leave my collection.....once I finally receive it this week I think Spooky has realized they have something special with TNA, and that it certainly has scratched an itch for many pinball fans out there. They need to make more games like this in the future.

Ditto for me, your list of modern Stern's matches those I'd be interested in also.

I've gotten less into longer-playing mode-based games and far more into faster playing games that are challenging and provide a specific "experience". By that generally I mean "intense" as in TNA, Flash Gordon, or Metallica. Other games, like Star Gazer are more "zen" to play and provide a nice change of pace. For me it's about the shots and flipper skills and then the theme/art/sound package applied on top. Generally prefer the older classic theme's where a lot is left to the imagination. Really, it just has to look and sound good. Making easy shots so I can watch the next video segment from a movie I wouldn't pay to see twice has no appeal.

It's easy to over-analyze things (and part of the fun) especially when deciding on a game for new or small collection. But I agree with Aurich, it's certainly not difficult to sell a game and bring in another in today's pinball market if you grow tired of one.

#1865 2 years ago
Quoted from imharrow:

I am curious what data shows here. I have not owned the game long, but by audits I think it might have longest average ball time of any of my DMD.
With the relative ease of multiball, ball saves and the save lanes it seems to have a lot less brutally short games.

I'd agree. I think casual players will have some brutally short ball times until/if they can velocitize their reaction times to what the game demands. However, more experienced players that are familiar with the game's ball save mechanics and are "warmed up" to play defensively can have some decent ball times for sure.

However, even with longer ball times the intensity level never lets up, which is a defining characteristic for this game and what makes it so fun.

Here are my audits from approx. 1 week of play on location incl. during league nights with likely a lot of league players on it (sw v1.1.0):

Avg Ball Time: '0:56'
Avg Game Time: '2:50'
Avg Score: '384,050'

Not particularily short by any means.

Last week I put up 1.5m on the one warm-up game I played before league started, and 40K during my league match (probably my lowest score ever). You have to be "loose" to play this game well. If you are "behind the ball" even the slightest bit certain doom awaits!

#1879 2 years ago
Quoted from mackey256:

pmaino Thanks for the pics. It does look cool. I'm officially on the fence.

I'd go with the Speaker light kit that should be available soon before the lighted side-blades. The speaker lights will be fully integrated into the game lighting as well.

#1937 2 years ago
Quoted from Wallofnoise:

Whoa did I miss the co-op announcement? When is the code update coming? That mode sounds awesome!

2nd this. Is co-op mode already in 1.1.02 code? I didn't see anything like an announcement. Sometimes it's like there's a whole other half of a conversation happening somewhere else around here.

What's the deal with Co-op mode?

#1939 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

It was beta testing at TPF this weekend. Peoepl learned about it mainly form a few streamers (Owlnonymous) that had the co-op beta before TPF.
Word spread on how to start up games and people played a bunch of co-op
It is basically where you select to play as a team (2, 3, or 4 players) to try and beat the game. Everyone has the same score except last digit denotes # of reactor kill shots.
You keep your own lane saves, but everything else is as a team.
Way fun!
Hopefully co-op versus (players 1 and 3 vs 2 and 4) becomes a reality also.

Thanks for the explanation. So only available to inside beta testers currently.

That does sound fun, and 2nd the idea of 2, 2 player teams vs. mode. Be a great fun-tournament entry!

#1968 2 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Thanks for your patience guys!
The upgrade: Cointaker’s 13 LED 89 bulb in RED

In a lit room up close...

Facing forward in a dark room.

Facing away in a dark room.

All in all I’m happy with how it turned out using the red version. It could be brighter if you went with a warm white option but, the beacon would get washed out to more of a pink hue if you used it.
The deep red is where it’s at.
I’d personally love somebody to create/3D print a clear vertically faceted diffuser dome to cleanly go over the 13 cob to blend the lighting a bit more.
Right now you can clearly see the individual LEDs underneath the beacon.
It’s not a dealbreaker but it is pretty obvious.
Still looks better than the stock 89 and really lights up the place at night.
Hope this helps folks!

Seeing as how Cointaker would like $30USD to ship me 1 of those to Canada, can anyone confirm which base of this bulb would work with TNA?

amazon.com link »

#2017 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I wish I could, but then I would never get anything done and TNA would be a cluster of ideas that made no sense as a whole. If something is suggested that fits into the overall vision I had for TNA, then I may add it, but I hope you guys understand that most suggestions will not be. I am definitely not offended by people suggesting things, but please don't be offended if I do not add it.
Also, I fucking love that Willy Wonka reference, I use it all the time and only about 30% of people get it.
--Scott

As long as all my suggestions make the cut Scott, you're golden.

EDIT: Hmm, I noticed that snazzy new I\m/ game has a really cool bonus meltdown. Just sayin'

1 week later
#2189 2 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

check the opto for the scoop. also check the wiring. like frunch said, the power is daisy chained from coil to coil on that line. take a look at this wiring layout. see if your upper slings and upper flipper are working properly as they are on the same line.

I’ve seen a simular issue on my game with the right scoop. It was always weak and the ball would only dribble out of it, had one report of it not working at all. I checked the wires on the scoop kickout and they are fine. I cranked the coil power for the right scoop up to 32 and it comes out now but still not as fast as the left one at a much lower power setting.

Suggestions?

#2201 2 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Thanks for the suggestion. Actually, none of those coils are firing which I didn't realize before. All of the wires seem very intact with some pretty generous tugging. Where to look next?

The switches on the slings tend to get mashed together over time. Remove the plastics and adjust them so they have a slight gap when the rubber is one but the ball isn’t hitting them.

You can use the switch test in diagnostics to see them firing as well.

1 week later
#2262 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Something is not aligned quite right, the top bar does not go into the lockdown mech straight, i have already peeled off the decal from the top left corner of the front of the cabinet trying to wiggle thing around. I am not sure if something is bent a little or if the lockdown mech is a little sideway/too low?
I will have to spend some time checking alignment and positioning. Maybe need to move the lockdown mech a little higher?
I have to realign the flipper bats too, little high with a hop but that is easy to fix Those brand new rubbers sure are grippy fresh outta the box! Can't stop playing the game to take time to try and fix it

Suggest you contact service@spookypinball.com, they’ll get you sorted out.

#2281 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Wow, 39 second average ball time. I gotta get prepared to have my ass handed to me by this game.

My TNA is at the location our league plays at, running stock settings in terms of difficulty and ball saves, etc. and the stats have always been pretty consistent:

Avg. Ball Time: 50s
Avg. Game Time: 2:32
Avg. Score: 306,816

These seem pretty reasonable to me, though the trouble with averages is that they often hide interesting truths. In this case, likely the good league guys are doing substantially better than this and joe public is getting creamed. Though nobody has gotten further than reactor 4. Maybe I should be making the reactors easier?

#2318 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

You can contact KT to get your speaker lights added (from what I've seen).

How many $ is the kit?

#2325 2 years ago

So I went to adjust an occasionally non-registering trough switch last night and ended up buggering up all 3 trough switches to the point where either the ball rests on top of the switch wheel thingy off the trough itself (and doesn't close the switch), or rests normally but still doesn't close the switch. I think I might have bent the switch blades up and they ended up bending at the mounting point, so now I can't get them low enough over the "button" to depress it via leverage on the blade. It's not clear how I can bend them back at that point since the blades themselves cannot extend into the switch housing.

Very frustrating and I feel like a fool.

Can someone post a picture of their working trough switches so I can get an idea of what the correct switch blade shape/angle looks like?

#2334 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

So I went to adjust an occasionally non-registering trough switch last night and ended up buggering up all 3 trough switches to the point where either the ball rests on top of the switch wheel thingy off the trough itself (and doesn't close the switch), or rests normally but still doesn't close the switch. I think I might have bent the switch blades up and they ended up bending at the mounting point, so now I can't get them low enough over the "button" to depress it via leverage on the blade. It's not clear how I can bend them back at that point since the blades themselves cannot extend into the switch housing.
Very frustrating and I feel like a fool.
Can someone post a picture of their working trough switches so I can get an idea of what the correct switch blade shape/angle looks like?

So upon review the trough “ball detect switch” blades are clearly supposed to be completely straight. However, it seems like the model Spooky is using has a design flaw or something. I ended up replacing mine with Williams ones, which worked perfectly and I suspect will continue to do so. (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=384)

The Spooky/Stern ones have the blade end bent and embedded flush into the switch body and the blade needs to compress a hard rubber “ball” to close the switch. It seems quite difficult to do so, in my case the blades were simply bending around the ball as there really is no space for the blade to pivot down onto the ball.
8D4D026D-FA70-4D10-A03F-4D771B9CC30F (resized).jpeg

The Williams ones mount the blade on a raised section on 2 pivot points over a typical plastic microswitch peg and they easily close due to the increased leverage and lighter resistance in the switch.
22F30200-E6F9-4215-97C9-86CACB71940E (resized).jpeg

So if your trough switches start acting up...

#2338 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I think you did this when you were trying to adjust your switches earlier. Adjusting a switch's blade is far more subtle than closing the gap on a leaf blade. Very minor bends make a big difference. When you adjusted them, it looks like it was too much and introduced full bends into the blades, it made them lose their proper action.
For adjusting through switches, just a tiny flex right near the actuation point has a big effect. Also, keep in mind that flexing the blade so the roller is a tiny bit higher is how you add pressure to the switch actuator. But flexing that blade too much will cause ball hangups or bad registration.
Finally, if you adjust too far, you need to flex the blade down in the same spot or you end up with a wavy or twisted blade.

Yeah I probably did all that trying to get them to work again.

I had at least one that went out of adjustment about 5 weeks ago that I bent up a notch and it fixed it. Then another this week and I messed them all up trying to sort it out. However, I’ve never had to adjust trough switches before (well on BK but those are blade switches), and after futzing with these I don’t think they are as reliable as the Williams ones. It takes too much force to close the switch IMHO, so the blade has to be absolutely perfect to be reliable.

Maybe I just had a bad switch and these normally are pretty reliable, but for my $ I’ll take the Williams ones anyday. Ironically, they are also slightly less expensive on the PBL site.

thenotrashcougar thanks for posting that pic.

#2376 2 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

Dremel tool it was. Enlarged the tiny slots so the 4 wires could fit thru.
The bolt pattern on the new 3D printed mounts measured a couple mm larger than the originals which was odd.
Looks good but you can see the LED strips at the bottom from my viewing angle.

Did you keep the speaker mesh material on?

I’m going to I think it will help tone down the light brightness and help preserve the apparent brightness of the screen while hopefully obscuring the led strips a bit.

#2379 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

The mesh would normally be behind the LEDs, though. The mesh sits on the back side of the speaker panel, and the LEDs sit along the edge of the cutout.
I installed mine last night, and the jury is still out on the LEDs. I love the grills, but as audihere said, the LEDs along the bottom edge are in direct view and a bit glaring. I'm wondering what it would be like if the spacer was printed from clear filament and was solid along the inner ring area.

Oh right. Anyway to mount it under the new faceplate on the front?

#2381 2 years ago
Quoted from evanc:

Sorry if I'm missing something obvious in the thread or when playing the game, but just found out there's a TNA on location here locally. Went to play and couldn't figure out how to start co op mode. I'm sure I'm missing something easy. Would love to try that out next time I'm there playing!

Press and hold the Start button when you want to start a game and it will enter Coop mode. Press and hold again to enter vs. mode.

I do think this feature would be a lot more discoverable on location if there was a menu on the lcd when you started a game. We have flipper buttons to navigate with, why not use the lcd to clearly show all the gameplay options?

On location people aren’t willing to risk paid credits messing around with the start button.

#2387 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Using flipper buttons to navigate a menu conflicts with the selectable hands free skillshot. I tried to make it as simple as possible, but will still review this for future code updates to make this more user friendly.

I was thinking if you press the start button with more than a single credit in it could present a menu where you pick the game mode before the game starts at all. Basically 3 modes to pick from and they could rotate through the options using flipper buttons to change the selection, then press Start again to pick the game mode. Only then does the game cue up, ball enter the shooter lane, etc.

#2403 2 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

I just trimmed mine to the circumference of the screw holes and put it directly behind the grill. Looks better to me.

Winner! winner! Chicken dinner!

1 week later
#2514 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

TheNoTrashCougar
My right flipper gives way a tad bit when taking a direct hit from the left scoop. If I leave the flipper up, the ball drops it about 1/4 - 1/2" before snapping back up into the up position.
Any ideas on adjustments? Settings? To keep that from happening?

Go to service-> settings->machine(standard)->Flipper hold boost and turn that up to 3.

On my machine this solved the problem and was originally suggested to my by thenotrashcougar.

#2547 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

The game is so fast & crazy, so who the hell has time to look at the LCD screen??? Take your eyes off the ball & you're screwed! Watch the ball & you're screwed anyway
Only time I glance at the screen is to see what the reactor value is at. The game will call out when the reactor is maxed anyway. Once you are familiar with the game, everything the player needs to know is obtainable via the great callouts, lit inserts, or the GI lighting color scheme. Hell even the old school playfield plastics tell you what to shoot for. The screen is really just eye candy.

You're not wrong, but it's something many people have noticed, myself included, and it bothers some more than others. I have noticed that the stock screen looks pretty good from off angles (sides, further back), it really suffers the most from the playing position, and the taller you are the worse the contrast gets.

I wonder if the stock monitor could be mounted upside down and if that would improve things? Sometimes these LCDs will have a better viewing angle in one vertical axis vs. another.

#2616 2 years ago


Quoted from Ilushka85:Gameplay footage. When you get a reactor going and whole machine shakes it’s even better bad sadly not in this quick video.
» Vimeo video

You did a nice job integrating them with the built-in lightshow. Looks poppin’!

1 week later
#2713 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Rumor starter. Spooky got the Goonies license and Scott is doing design.

Good one!

...and it's modelled after classic System 11 games with simple ramps and interesting playfield layouts.

1 week later
#2819 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Looking through the adjustments menu last night I saw one for prototype rollover. Is this left over from the original whitewood that had the star rollovers in the reactor area, or does turning this feature on do anything on the production machines?

Yep. Left over from the whitewood. Someone should mod their game and add them back in...

#2838 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

My other question is about vibrations. I LOVE the audio in this game. The bass is amazing! But i've noticed, even at Volume Level 2 (!), the bass creates A LOT of rattling & buzzing throughout the cabinet. Some of it seems to be coming from the glass, but I also hear it coming from lower down, like somewhere in the cabinet itself. Is there an EQ slider/setting, or some other way to lower the bass a little bit? Or is there another way to prevent this annoying rattle? Has anyone else experienced this? Or is it just normal?

My TNA had the bass level set way too high out of the box too. Realistically it would need to be adjusted based on the room conditions as well (in a corner, concrete floor vs carpet, etc.). It's a process to fully balance all the settings but a simple fix is to careful turn down (counter-clockwise) the leftmost knob on the amplifier. The amp is mounted sideways to the bottom of the cab between the sub chamber and the coin box, right side.

The knob in question is the closest one to the coin door. Turn that down and adjust to your liking. Try not to mess with the other knobs if you can. Should solve your blown out bass issue.

#2910 2 years ago

6.7 or 6.8 I think. On location.

#2968 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

When the ball save light (white) is in a lane that the ball passes through, the ball save timer starts to count down. Once it’s activated (and counting down) the ball can drain from anywhere (including sdtm), and you get a new ball

Deciding when to use your earned ball saves is a huge part of the strategy on this game.

I like to complete the grid in single ball with ball save running (unless I’m already in multiball from the last reactor). I find it more efficient to qualify, start, and even overload the reactor in single ball and use multiball for blowing the reactor for max value and then get as far as I can into the next one with it..

3 weeks later
#3177 1 year ago
Quoted from imharrow:

As I transition from resting on the service rails, to bringing the playfield up to lean back I pulled it forward off the side rails. The motion was completely unconscious, done it hundreds of times of sterns. The force I am use to providing appartly is enough to jump the stops at the end of the side rails.
I thought I was unique until I saw an other very experienced pinball owner do the exact same thing.

I did this once too. Wasn't hard to do at all. Scary as hell. Luckily nothing seemed to break.

The PF on TNA has bearings mounted to make sliding it in and out easier, but this also allows you to build up some momentum easily and run it right off the end of the rails. It's especially easy to do if you just came from raising a heavy 90's Williams PF like say STTNG where it takes some force to lock the PF into position.

Spooky should consider increasing the length of the "stops" at the end of the PF guides to prevent this.

1 month later
#3447 1 year ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

You don’t need a replacement screen to make your stock TNA display look better.
Just use four plastic black screw spacers+longer screws (two semi-thin on bottom and two taller ones on top) with one end of each spacer chopped/ground down to MATCH the new viewing angle that YOU think looks best.
[quoted image]
Once the new angle is chosen, make a new completely black baffle to isolate the BB light (I used overlapping black gorilla tape) trimmed to match the new angle both inside and out to give a clean finished look.
The new angle doesn’t need to be too crazy either; just a few degrees can make a world of difference.

This is the same fix I was thinking of when I first got my game. Can you post pics of your game with this mod?

3 weeks later
14
#3546 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

Yeah, I'm sure a lot of people were breaking into buildings with TNA's and taking a ladder over to it with their screwdriver to remove the plastic dome and single bulb...to steal shit cause they can. This was definitely a big problem that needed to be addressed!

If you're an adult male who doesn't own a set of Torx (tm) bits then what kind of man are you, really?

1 month later
#3908 1 year ago
Quoted from DrScoops:

I received #362 last week and I’m in love!
I do have an audio issue that I need to tackle. The original 3.5mm male-to-male audio cable from the back box to the amp was faulty. I swapped in a similar cable I had around but a few games in and it’s not making good connection to the amp as well. I’m beginning to worry the jack on the amp may be the problem. Wondering if anyone has suggestions for this? Has anyone upgraded their audio cable ?(or their amp?). The music on this thing is too good to not be working properly. I suspect that having the amp right next to the shaker makes for a challenging situation for that 3.5mm jack.

Yep. Same thing happened to mine. Replaced the cable but didn’t fix it. Turns out the audio input jack on the amp mounted next to the shaker on the bottom of the cabinet had a cold solder joint from all the movement.

I was able to remove the amp (bit of a PIA to reach all the screws, had to also remove the sub box cover) and disassemble it to resolder the input jack. Re-assembly was tricky as there is an internal heat sink that needs to be held to get the screw through it.

This solved my problem. You could also just replace the amp they are not very expensive.

One tip I would suggest is to add a cable guide to the audio cable in front of the amp to make sure the cable is always going straight into the jack and that there is no side-to-side pressure from an angled cable on the jack itself. Also make sure the audio cable in the head isn’t applying angled pressure on the jack on the back of the display. The cable is heavy and the audio jack isn’t built to hold that kind of tension.

#3909 1 year ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Any tips on how to make TNA optimal in tournaments, besides just being awesome as it is?
Ball times are not that short on my game, so I will need to do soemthing, but just thinking if there are some optimal settings to make it harder?
Maybe scott has some thoughts ? thenotrashcougar

Make sure the slingshot switches are sensitive. A flat slingshot response can make a huge difference in how difficult this game is. If the ball is ever hitting or rolling down the slingshot rubber and it’s not firing you just put training wheels on your game.

As for sw adjustments I have reduced the ballsaver timers for high level competitive play as well. Maybe 8 secs instead of 15 (not sure going from memory).

1 week later
#3993 1 year ago

Here’s my scoop after approx. 5000 plays. I do have some of those static cling laminating sheets on the pf around the scoop ( you can see it around the scoop edge ).
88B36B84-A4D1-4B50-AD54-4EC4FBB0749F (resized).jpeg
All in so far my game has held up pretty well after a bit of a rough start.

Issues so far:

- flipper return springs failed after first week. Replaced.
- one bad pf led out if box. Spooky sent replacement.
- backbox gi led didn’t work out of the box. Spooky sent replacement.
- audio input port on amp had cold solder joint - resoldered
- trough ball detect switches quit working reliably got too stiff. Replaced with WMS style micro switch variant.
- backbox gi led faded badly after about 6 months of daily 12 hour use and basically quit working. I replaced with my own led strips.
- slingshot protector and plastic both broke.
- tore a wire off the auto plunger cool twice when it snagged on the manual plunger when lifting the pf. Zip tied it out if the way.
- regular switch adjustments to keep things tight and mean.

#4079 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:It's strange that the playfield damage issue seems to be so common now. My game, #60, has seen a lot of play with no protection, and there is no visible damage.

Agree. I wonder what's changed in the PF manufacturing process?

I'm no expert but I'd expect the clear-coat to give a bit and not for the paint to release from the wood like that so completely. Or is it a more gradual process where the clear is chipped away and then the paint after it's let unprotected? Almost like the posts aren't secured tight enough to prevent movement from occurring.

#4082 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

How much interest would there be in scoop protectors (similar to Cliffys)? My dad is a retired machinist and is going to take measurements on mine when he visits for Christmas so he can make me a set. I'd love recommendations for other areas that need protection as well.

My game has been on location since February and the only protection I added was laying down pieces of Avery Self Adhesive Laminating Sheets over high impact area, such as in front of the slings, pop bumper, around the scoop, outhole, and shooter lane. This stuff is a fantastic alternative to Mylar IMHO because it is so easy to work with. You can lay it down and take it off with no glue residue being left on the playfield, it is virtually invisible once applied cleanly, and it's dirt cheap as well. When it gets dirty you just replace it with fresh, though I haven't even had to do that on my game yet.

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/avery-self-adhesive-laminating-sheets/6000016953590

This will NOT protect the edges of the scoop hole however and I don't think a metal protector would work well there as it would likely make the scoop shot even more difficult to make. Ideally game designers would enlarge the openings for these types of shots such that a factory installed metal protector would not also reduce the size of the opening (see the SIM card shot on Dialed In).

#4084 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Good to know! I'll definitely play around with making a protector regardless.
Anyways, I've reached out to Spooky and they've told me they sorted out the issue of wear around the posts (I linked specific comments in the thread), so supposedly it won't be a problem with new machines.

Did they explain what the problem was and their solution?

#4097 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

All playfields will dimple. The difference is those playfields that use high quality wood and/or clear coat (JJP uses the former) will have fewer dimples than those that do not (Stern's wood from Iron Maiden on is absolute junk).
Do a comparison between a DILE with 500 plays and an Iron Maiden with 250. The DILE will have far fewer dimples. IMDN will have hundreds of dimples, many shallow because the wood gives easily even for light airballs.

Oh God, here we go. Dimpling is normal and will happen on any game. It is more noticeable on new games because of the very clear/shiny and thick clear-coats used these days. A few dimples on a new game will really stand out and may even be alarming to look at. However, in all cases, over time and with enough plays the dimples will accumlate and essentially "flatten" the playfield and will become much less noticeable. If your HUO game is never played all that much the dimples may always be more noticeable.

There are controversial opinions that certain eras of PF or manufacturers playfields may be more susceptible to playfield dimpling than others, but none of this has been proven in any substantive sense. Modern games with shiny playfields and bright LED lighting show the dimples more than in the past. Games that tend to trigger airballs will dimple more than ones that don't etc.

My TNA has dimpled heavily. I have a year old Metallica that was on location that looks like a 90s wms game already, mostly flat not a lot of noticeable dimples per se anymore.

#4173 1 year ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

451 finally shuffled its way into Vermont! Made the trip in good shape and seems to be working pretty well. It has thrown a couple drop target errors which will need investigating but the lock system seems to be working, so not sure what that's about yet.
One thing I'm not a fan of is the playfield mounting system. While lifting it to make sure everything looked OK underneath, I slid it out too far quite easily and dropped it into the cabinet at the back. Doesn't seem to have harmed anything but I don't like the lack of positive retention. That little hook at the end of the slide rail is near useless.
[quoted image]

I did the same thing once. They need to add a better stop at the end of the rail, ala Homepin's setup for this (See the large wooden "hook" at the end of the rail inside the cabinet).

12c2ce56dc7370c07b62f9e9f073ddec2348b548 (resized).jpg
#4223 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Now with Spooky approved repair kit. Still really not happy this is what we have to resort to after 80 games played.[quoted image]

That looks fine, but I agree I'd be a little concerned about the overall longevity of the PF finish due to this issue.

I had a MET Pro from back in the GB fiasco days that chipped like crazy in the first 100 games. Ended up selling it and buying a buddy's older one that had a PF like a tank.

You just never know what you're going to get NIB honestly, doesn't seem to matter from whom either. The best you can hope for is a manufacturer/distributor that will back their products sufficiently if there is a problem.

So far Spooky seems to be on top of it.

#4264 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

My game had no mylar and I had some paint loss around the star posts on the lower playfield. As always, YMMV.

My game #87 has been on location most of its life and has no issues around the posts, no mylar or anything else. I do check that the posts are snug though as I can see if a post was a bit loose the ball hitting it would cause the post edge to chip away at the finish.

Having said that, if it will make you feel better there should be no harm in adding these (that we know of, anyway).

#4295 1 year ago

I've had issues with strange tilt behaviours on my TNA. Had the tilt bob installed upside down for awhile and that actually helped I think. Been meaning to add the ear plug but haven't yet.

I almost wonder if there's something about the P3 boards that make reacting to tilt switches more difficult? I noticed that the Houdini at our location often exhibits similar strange "ghost" tilts long after a tilt warning occurs.

#4357 1 year ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

This shows the plug (front) and the port (rear).
Printed in black PLA at 2 perimeters, the port itself will print with 3 though (2 external and 1 internal)
I think it looks really neat.
[quoted image]

It looks great! ...but how does it sound?

1 week later
#4449 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Software Download and Instructions: www.tnapinball.com

Oooh, fancy new website URL!

Though I must say that it seems like this game specific support stuff should be hosted on Spooky's website (www.spooky.com). But it appears to be a static webpage from approx. 1997

I guess they lack an appropriate technical resource to keep their site current.

#4553 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

I disagree, Would Scott blast a TNA into space like Elon did with his car? NO!

Hell ya! He can use mine.

EDIT>> On second thought, it would have to be the whitewood.

#4562 1 year ago

I've swapped games around and now have my TNA off route and am in process of shopping it out and will be adding it to my home collection finally.

If folks are interested I can post some pics of how things looked after approx. 5-6K plays on route.

#4580 1 year ago

EDIT>>. Nevermind. I found that Green labelled cab switch plug was down inside the cable wrap going into the head. Reconnected and it’s all good now.

—————-

I just finished my post-route shop job and went to enter the service menu and my coin door buttons are not working. Of course everything was working fine before I started it.

I vaccumed out the backbox and cabinet along the way so possible I jostled some wires.

Game boots fine, has 1 credit on it, won't start a game either via the Start button (which is flashing).

I checked all the plugs on the boards in the backbox and they seem fine.

All the board LEDs back there are glowing red, but I noticed the little daughter board that the button wires run to below the left flipper button in the cabinet the LED glows green. Is red = good for the backbox boards?

Any suggestions before I email support?

#4594 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I would like a call out making fun of anyone that does a cheater restart
Would love the lady voice mocking the player or something about giving up and now everyone dies.

Nooooo thanks! I get enough of that kind of talk for the Mrs. at home.

#4616 1 year ago

So now that my game is home in my basement it is time to address the screaming loud PS fan.

Looks like the stock fan spec is for 23.5 CFM Noise Level 34.5 dBA.
I see here in OnTheSnap posting (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/49#post-4370299) that he used one with much lower airflow (and noise): Air Flow: 12 CFM Noise Level: 20 dBA

Is there a general consensus that this lower airflow is sufficient?

I have found this model that is very quiet: Air Flow 13.8 CFM Noise 10.7 dB(A) (https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/fans-thermal-management/dc-fans/217?k=fan+60x60x25&k=&pkeyword=fan+60x60x25&sv=0&pv191=2059&sf=0&FV=ffe000d9%2C38007e%2C30404d2%2C1f140000&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25)

Anyone do this mod and have any issues with the PS overheating, etc.? Am I good to go?

#4620 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

I installed the same one as onthesnap about a month ago and the only thing I have noticed it is a hell of a lot quieter. I highly recommend.

Cool thanks!

...see what I did there?

#4628 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

FYI, here are the updated links for the LCD replacement (the ones in the initial post are sold out):
LCD:
ebay.com link » Lg Philips Lp156wf1 Tl B2 Replacement Laptop Lcd Screen 15 6 Led Lp156wf1 Tlb2
Controller:
ebay.com link » Nt68676 Hdmi Dvi Vga Lcd Controller Board For 15 6 1920x1080 Lp156wf1 Tlb2
The LCD is stateside, the controller comes from China (about 3 weeks of shipping time). I was pretty impressed with how much difference this made - the blacks are actually black instead of gray and everything is much cleaner and more vivid. Certainly worth it for $85.

Thanks for the updated links. I was just looking at this yesterday. I think I'm going to try the "tilt the monitor back a few degrees" idea first since with shipping to Canada things get a little more involved with the replacement approach.

#4653 1 year ago

I completed a few mods on the weekend...

1. Replaced the screeming jet engine fan in the PS with nearly completely silent one.
Orig. fan on the left, new fan on the right. New one is much smaller/lighter and quieter

2. Moved the speaker mesh material from between the speaker and the speaker lights rings (mounted on the back of the speaker panel) to the front of the speaker panel and cut to fit behind the metal circular speaker covers. I prefer this setup with the speakers themselves more visible and the overall brightness of the speaker lights slightly dimmed due to the mesh.

3. Tilted the stock monitor back so it points directly at the head/eyes of the player. This totally resolves the poor contrast and bad darks problem and makes the screen pop! I used 1 1/2" nylon spacers and longer wood screws to mount the top of the monitor to the speaker panel, and just screwed the bottom screws in without bending the monitor or adding spacers there (for now anyway, they seem secure enough). I also used Gorilla tape to fashion a light shroud around the monitor but this ended up being pretty "tacky" looking so might replace with black pastic or cardboard at some point.

Here's a before pic showing orig., speaker mesh setup and stock monitor angle with washed out picture quality:
Before

Here's what it looks like now with the angled monitor and speaker mesh in front of the lights...
After! That's better!

FYI My monitor settings are:
Brightness: 20
Contrast: 100
Gamma: On

Monitor mounted with the spacers...
Spacer (resized).JPG

Picture with a flash on to show the monitor angle from the side-front. Normally you wouldn't really notice the white spacer post.
SpeakerFlash (resized).JPG

One issue with the slanted monitor is that the top of the screen is now blocked on some screens in the game by the top of the monitor cutout in the speaker panel. It's not nearly as bad for me while playing as this picture would indicate, but still lose the top 1/3 of the top row of text on that screen. An ideal fix would be to expand the hole in the speaker cutout slightly but this would require cutting, sanding, and re-painting the speaker panel.

The monitor controls look like there should be an option to allow sizing/moving the picture but you can't select it. Too bad or this would be an easy fix.
I'm okay with this for now as the increased PQ is well worth it. It somehow "feels" so much better to have the screen slanted so it's pointed directly at the viewer, I wish Spooky would have fabricated a proper monitor mount and done it this way from the factory.
Oops

4. Added the light up siderails. These are great and should also be a factory option!

..oh, and the factory option mirror blades too. Shiny!
My precious!

#4677 1 year ago
Quoted from phlegmer:

Fytr

I'm glad I'm not the only one that noticed the louder than average fan. Out of the 2 posted, which one is the quieter one so I know what to hunt for?
Thanks

The one on the right is the quiet replacement.

Note that it produces approx. 1/2 the airflow of the stock fan but is only 10.5db(A) (whisper quiet) vs 34.5db(A) (Running Dishwasher) for the stock.

#4693 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

At least in my case, I probably just phrased it poorly. I'm referencing the ability to hit the scoop and, more importantly, not have it bounce back.

Has anyone tried adding some drop dead foam or even a strip of velcro to the inside of the scoop? This might settle the ball a bit and allow more shots to drop in.

#4715 1 year ago

Alright folks I’ve got the fix for anyone being frustrated by the left scoop rejecting well aimed shots.

Simply take 1.5” piece of wide Velcro (the fuzzy side) and stick it to the underside of the scoop. Give the scoop metal a quick wipe with some rubbing alcohol first.
40A37CB1-9290-4013-8534-08B6ED5AC9DE (resized).jpeg
22BDA538-507F-4381-A6C5-8812D5691D30 (resized).jpeg

Also make sure your scoop metal is bent a bit on the low side (carefully) as well.
image (resized).jpg

This is an old pinball’s trick for slowing down the ball a smidge in places where it can cause problems. Used the same thing on my STTNG cannon kicker before to keep the ball from bouncing off the ramp and back down the scoop.

This works 100% and makes TNA feel like a whole different game.

...and for Lionman’s sake turn your flipper strength back up!

#4724 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Still fires out crazy fast too?

Yeah I haven’t noticed any difference that way.

1 week later
#4791 1 year ago
Quoted from procks:

Should the backglass feel kind of loose like it's rattling around when I touch it?

On thing to check is that the brackets that hold the speaker panel in on the head aren’t too wide. On my game the speaker panel and Bk above it would wobble out from where they meet. Once when moving the game the BG fell right out! Was a minor miracle it didn’t shatter.

I simply bent the brackets that hold the speaker panel in place down/narrower and that solved it 100%.

1 week later
#4894 1 year ago
Quoted from DennisK:

Noticed a discoloration around my left scoop this evening that was not there originally. I can't feel anything when I touch it (smooth as the rest of the scoop parameter). Bubble under the clear coat? Wasn't sure if I should do anything about it or if it's just cosmetic. Photo included.
[quoted image]

The clear has lifted off the paint there due to a ball impact. It will eventually chip off.

My TNA scoop has some wear directly on top edges but it’s more gradual/localized.

I’d recommend covering the area around the hole with some mylar to protect it and to seal the chip in (though you’ll never be able to remove the mylar without taking the chip off too).

Maybe talk to Spooky first and see what they suggest.

#4914 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I’ve been trying to get my wife into pinball for years, I just can’t seem to push her in thru the coin door

My cat, on other hand, is really into pinballs...

4 weeks later
#5082 1 year ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

Pretty clear this is the wrong hobby for me. Have fun ripping each other off.

To be fair to you, you certainly ran into some bad luck with the out-of-box issues you experienced. Being your first NIB game I totally understand the disappointment you must be feeling. My first NIB game (not my first game by a long shot though) was a Metallica Pro that had similar PF chipping issues within about a 100 games in the outlane area. Stern sent me some nail polish to fill the chipped area. I was pretty devastated at the time, just didn't feel the same about it. I ended up selling it and buying a friend's older Metallica that showed much more normal/graceful PF wear characteristics. I swore at the time that I would only buy games I could inspect before purchase going forward. ...since then I've purchased two more NIB games, both have been excellent, luckily.

Playfields tend to either wear gracefully and end up looking like a 90's Williams game with some slight wear spots but no clear coat chipping off in chunks, or the clearcoat chips off in large slivers often destroying artwork underneath. I've seen this from Stern and now with the posted pictures on this thread. I suspect it has something to do with the adhesion of the CC to the PF but I'm no expert.

IMHO, if the artwork is damaged to the point that the washer fix doesn't cover it I think Spooky should be sending out populated PF replacements ala Stern and Ghostbusters. Barring that have the customer send their PF back to Spooky and have Spooky transfer their mechs, etc to a new PF for them. This is my opinion. The PF is clearly defective in this scenario and they should stand behind their product. If the shipping in onerous due to distance then perhaps you should kick-in for some of that, not Spooky's fault you live where you do.

#5099 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

I applaud Charlie and co for starting a pinball company and for releasing some really fun games. I'm not going to defend jerk customers, but in an established industry like pinball, learning and utilizing best practices leads to far fewer situations like this playfield episode. I love my TNA but I do question some of the odd decisions that were made that could have been avoided simply by watching what others do....some examples:
1) Why are the lockbar and rails so sharp? Aren't battle-tested lockbars and rails available off the counter? And if you want to make them yourself, can't you follow the example of every other manufacturer, and make sure they are deburred?
2) Stern's displays have always sat an angle with the top further back, to reduce glare and improve color display contrast. But TNA's display faces head on, and when combined with a low-budget screen, produces poor contrast and color. Tilting the screen even 5 degrees back using washers greatly reduces this issue. Something Spooky still isn't doing at the factory for some reason.
3) The playfields are not given time to cure properly, which results in both chipping and scratch marks all over the place on NIB machines from them wiping them down at the factory - which you cannot do if the playfield hasn't cured yet. The reason Charlie hasn't "released" the reason why all those playfields are chipping is because the reason is quite simple: they didn't cure properly.
I get it, Charlie. Pinball is hard. But it doesn't have to be quite as hard if you take cues from established players.

In the spirit of constructive feedback I concur with your points other than no idea about the cause of the chipping.

But yeah, tilt the monitor back a bit. Better contrast and looks / feels better too.

#5131 1 year ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Yeah if she sticks with it She could become a really good player . She likes co-op mode and shows her friends that when they come over . On a side note we went and watched a controlled house fire today so she could see the fire trucks and firemen . At some point she said the fire looked like destroying reactors on Total Nuclear Annohilation . It was pretty awesome.
[quoted image]

Um, shouldn’t they be putting out that fire?

#5135 1 year ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Just curious - anyone else have an issue under the latest release and the latest beta where a Tilt never recovers? Mine does it now under both those versions. It goes into Tilt and then just sits there. Only way out is to power-cycle. Scott told me he's aware of it but hasn't been able to recreate it, so I'm curious if others are seeing it?
Dave

Saw it once with Beta code but haven't seen it since. You able to reproduce it?

#5144 1 year ago
Quoted from stevevt:

toyguy has an earplug installed, and I'm pretty sure it's not causing the tilt bob to rest on the ring.

Interesting maybe test that scenario see if the sw messes up.

3 months later
#5615 11 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

That is super strange. I have not noticed this at all on any of my test machines. Is anyone else seeing this behavior? Thanks,
--Scott

Haven't noticed it myself. I like to play a little tune along to the background music while I navigate to pick out my initials.

2 weeks later
#5699 10 months ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

The amp adjustment procedure (from this thread) is located here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/33#post-4247418
I wanted to take this with me to my game (and have it with me while I was hunched over the machine), so I formatted it up into a PDF that helped make the process as easy (for me) to follow as possible.
It's attached below - hopefully it can help some others out as well...
[quoted image]

That's interesting.. I only have my machine (#261) for reference, and I purchased NIB, so I am confident how the dials are set in that picture is how it left Spooky. I've since changed them a bit based on Scott's excellent instructions, but I'd be interested to see how close to a perfect sine wave I have (I'd have to drag my oscilloscope into the gameroom, and I've not done that yet).

Thanks for putting this together!

I’ve found you absolutely need to adjust these (especially the sub knob) as the game will sound very different depending on where it is located (nearby walls, floor material, etc.). You can very easily have far too much booming bass which will annoy you and your neighbors and ruin your enjoyment of the music.

#5730 10 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Well, my son and I have been playing a whole lotta TNA, and it looks like the three post sleeves up top have started wearing. They look substantially thinner than normal post sleeves. Which replacements are needed? I don't see anything in game specific on pinball life.

Just a tip that you can clean these and rotate them around the post a few times to extend their lifespan a bit longer. They are very thin.

#5731 10 months ago

Check this out! Scott is re-releasing the TNA soundtrack in Sept!

http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1838

"Total Nuclear Annihilation (Beepgate Reprise)"

Wow! If the 1.4 SW for TNA re-introduces the original "beep" sound I'm-a-gonna kiss Scott!

#5761 10 months ago
Quoted from DennisK:

I've never done that, but sometimes when I hear "shoot left scoop to start reactor" I yell "don't tell me what to do!"

I used to hate the way ToM used to order you around the whole game. Didn't last long in my basement...

#5770 10 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I just installed clear frosted drop targets in the TNA here at Pinball Life. I unscrewed the LEDs for the inserts in front of each drop target and relocated it to the back of the target pointing up and at the clear drop. So cool!!! Figured I would share as this is also another new product at Pinball Life. (Shameless plug I guess)
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71[quoted image]

Nice!

Is there a way we can add another LED to the original so we can light the insert and the target?

#5788 10 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Anyone had trouble with the amplifier input 3.5mm jack/socket? The TNA I'm babysitting made a horrendous noise today which had me reaching for the power switch. Looks like a dodgy connection inside the amp, if I move the input jack at all I get this crazy loud feeback type noise. I've cable tied the cable in a certain position atm. Has anyone else had this?

Yep. You can try to secure the position of audio cable with a cable tie to keep it from moving but I had to take the amp out (which required removing the sub encloser to get to the screws) and taking it apart and resolding the input jack to the board more securely. Putting the amp back together was, er, difficult to get the heat-sink on the inside of the case back in position. If I had to do it again I'd probably just spring for a new amp, though I'm pretty certain my solding job is a lot stronger than the factory one on the input jack.

I'm not sure if the root cause of the solder failure was long think heavy cable putting diagonal pressure on it (because it wasn't firmly secured to always stay perfectly straight) or if it just became weak due to all the shaker action, low freq. vibrations from the sub right next to it. I haven't had another issue since my repair, however.

#5796 10 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Nice!
Is there a way we can add another LED to the original so we can light the insert and the target?

Maybe we can take spare led boards and splice in to the existing insert ones in such a manner that they would be programmed identically? Probably not possible the way these things are individually addressable...

#5804 10 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Maybe two LEDs on one board/address like the sling boards done by TimeBandit for Alien ... ?

Yes. I’m assuming the individual led boards couldn’t power two leds directly but one could be made that could. Or maybe there’s a way to configure the led board to “mimic” the original one so they both react to the same address (I have no idea how these actually work, clearly).

2 weeks later
#5837 9 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Yeah, I NEED one of those shooter lane kits.

Quoted from twhtalm:

Check the mail at PBL in about 2-3 weeks, you should already be expecting one.

Uhhhh, I NEED one of those shooter lane kits too...

1 month later
#5962 8 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hi all, I’ve been a long time admirer of TNA, and for the first time was lucky enough to play it yesterday. I’m in love! It has it all. Amazing sound, gameplay, light show, and incredibly tension. Amazing pin.
I have limited space and limited funds, but I immediately wanted it. What can I sell to get it!!??!!
My collection is smallish and currently can’t expand so would need to sell something to fit a TNA in.
The only pin I have which is remotely similar to TNA is Quicksilver. I’m currently restoring it so have no intention of selling it. I like to have pins of varying style, era, depth etc and wonder whether it’ll suit.
I have:
Funhouse - First Pin, fully restored, could not sell
Monster Bash LE - Latest pin, sentimental fav
Quicksilver - Currently restoring, amazing game. Super simple, great sound and speed
Jurassic Park LE - yet to arrive, but already looks to be a grand slam.
Whirlwind - Will be my next resto. Cannot stop playing
How do you keep TNA in a small collection?? What have you sold to bring it in? It’s such a niche game. Can you have a Quicksilver and TNA in a 5-6 game collection?

Personally I sold my beloved STTNG to pick up TNA. No regrets.

I too have a small collection and it becomes difficult to swap games out to bring new ones in. My rule of thumb is if I really want the new game enough then it will be obvious which of my existing games would have to go. If you want TNA but not enough to sell one of the others, then you don't really want TNA that much after all, do you?

As to whether you can have TNA and Quicksilver in the same small collection, of course you can. They are really nothing alike other than on the simpler side re: rules. It comes down to the kind of games you enjoy. I like games that give me a specific feeling/experience when I play them. Doesn't matter if they are long players filled with modes, etc. or fast and furious, so long as they take me to a "place" when I play them. I have to have a connection with them to want them in my collection.

Based on your comments I'd say you already have that with your current lineup so unless you can "squeeze one more in" you might want to put TNA on the backburner for now.

#5963 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Just to clarify, if TNA goes into production again, the art will not be changing. There may be some cosmetic changes to the side rails or other little things, but nothing will change that you could not bolt right on to the first run of TNA machines. A TNA run will most likely not happen between ACNC and Haunted House Party.
--Scott

Thanks for the clarity Scott, the rumour mill was starting to do it's thing.

I'm so pumped for your next game, but also dreading it for the reasons mentioned in my post above.

1 month later
#6066 7 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Brought home a TNA this week! Exited to join the club!
Is it me or is this game shorter than others? Legs are 28-1/2 but it’s a few inches shorter than my Medieval Madness

Yeah it's weird. Mine is shorter at the front than any of my classic Bally or Stern games too. I thought the cabinet was supposed to be based on a classic Bally cab but my Medusa sits much higher at the front with the front legs fully retracted.

1 week later
#6082 7 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Yeah it's weird. Mine is shorter at the front than any of my classic Bally or Stern games too. I thought the cabinet was supposed to be based on a classic Bally cab but my Medusa sits much higher at the front with the front legs fully retracted.

All levelers fully lowered, TNA is about 1 1/2" lower than Medusa, but only 1/2" lower than Tron.

IMG_7205 (resized).JPG

#6084 7 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Is that a Canadian ruler? It looks like way more than a half inch

First just let me say "...that's what she said!"

I'm talking about the lockdown bar heights.

#6093 7 months ago

I did a nifty little BG lighting upgrade last weekend that turned out amazing, if I do say so myself!

IMG_7226 (resized).JPG
59703606999__786F7F70-60A1-4032-9541-DADB0C9FE140 (resized).JPG
IMG_7102 (resized).JPG

Here's a write-up for details if you are interested:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/14#post-5340571

3 weeks later
#6171 6 months ago

Same here, game was on location for most of a year and never had it happen that I can recall. I do have the factory plastic protectors installed if that makes a difference. In any case, it's great that there is a solution readily available now!

1 month later
#6223 5 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Love the light show and color changing speaker grills so why not add more lighting effects! I ended up adding color changing LED strips to the back of my back box that interact with the color changing speakers. It is awesome!
Here is a video showing it off
Here is a video showing how to do it.
I used this amazon.com link »
and this amazon.com link »

Awesome, thanks for the video!

#6224 5 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I completed a few mods on the weekend...
...
3. Tilted the stock monitor back so it points directly at the head/eyes of the player. This totally resolves the poor contrast and bad darks problem and makes the screen pop! I used 1 1/2" nylon spacers and longer wood screws to mount the top of the monitor to the speaker panel, and just screwed the bottom screws in without bending the monitor or adding spacers there (for now anyway, they seem secure enough). I also used Gorilla tape to fashion a light shroud around the monitor but this ended up being pretty "tacky" looking so might replace with black pastic or cardboard at some point.
Here's a before pic showing orig., speaker mesh setup and stock monitor angle with washed out picture quality:
[quoted image]
Here's what it looks like now with the angled monitor and speaker mesh in front of the lights...
[quoted image]
FYI My monitor settings are:
Brightness: 20
Contrast: 100
Gamma: On
Monitor mounted with the spacers...
[quoted image]
Picture with a flash on to show the monitor angle from the side-front. Normally you wouldn't really notice the white spacer post.
[quoted image]
One issue with the slanted monitor is that the top of the screen is now blocked on some screens in the game by the top of the monitor cutout in the speaker panel. It's not nearly as bad for me while playing as this picture would indicate, but still lose the top 1/3 of the top row of text on that screen. An ideal fix would be to expand the hole in the speaker cutout slightly but this would require cutting, sanding, and re-painting the speaker panel.
The monitor controls look like there should be an option to allow sizing/moving the picture but you can't select it. Too bad or this would be an easy fix.
I'm okay with this for now as the increased PQ is well worth it. It somehow "feels" so much better to have the screen slanted so it's pointed directly at the viewer, I wish Spooky would have fabricated a proper monitor mount and done it this way from the factory.
[quoted image]

Well I finally went back in and improved my slanted-monitor mod on TNA (see the quoted post for the original details).
My original work had 2 glaring issues, the top of the display was clipped by the top edge of the speaker panel, and the finish around the outside edge of the monitor wasn't very clean (I had used black duct tape to seal around the open edges between the monitor and the speaker panel).

I solved the first problem by lowering the mount location of the monitor slightly. This allows a perfect view of the bottom and top of the monitor - at least for someone of average height like myself. A really tall person would still see some clipping of the top edge.

To improve the finish I used some black bristol board carefully cut to match the size of the openings between the monitor and the speaker panel. This stuff worked really well as I could just slide it between the monitor and the panel and because it has a sort of foam in the middle it would compress slightly and wedge in securely without requiring anything else to hold it there. Completely reversible and provides a professional finish.
IMG_7444 (resized).JPG
I love this mod now, the picture quality and contrast is sooo much better than stock and it feels great to have the monitor slanted to your eyes with its lower-than-normal location on the TNA cabinet.

IMG_7449 (resized).JPGIMG_7459 (resized).JPG

PS> Fortunately, Spooky has adopted a sloped speaker panel for R&M, making this mod unnecessary on that game.

#6229 5 months ago
Quoted from Walleyefisher:

Fytr Your display looks sooooo much better than mine. Mine is so washed out looking you can barely see the images.

Besides angling the monitor back inside the cabinet (which improves the contrast greatly) you can also adjust your monitor's settings to improve things somewhat using the control buttons mounted on the back of the monitor.

FYI My monitor settings are:
Brightness: 20
Contrast: 100
Gamma: On

...but you will want to play around with yours to see which values provide the best picture.

1 month later
#6318 3 months ago

Watching the TWIPYs last night I couldn't help but notice that a *lot* of the amazing basement game collections that the fabulous and famous presenters were standing in front of featured a TNA. It's the *IT* game among the pinball elite, apparently. ...or maybe I'm suffering from Baader-Meinhof syndrome.

2 weeks later
#6517 83 days ago
Quoted from procks:

I guess what I'm really asking is how the hell do you get through 9 reactors? Sometimes I make a mistake and the ball drains but a lot of times it seems like there's nothing I could have done to prevent it. How do you ballers get so far without lady luck taking you out?

When I'm looking for a longer game I'm having quite a bit of fun by starting a 4 person coop game and playing them all myself.

Sure, it's "cheating" but its fun to get to the higher reactors that way.

#6525 82 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

...keep in mind that this game is not necessarily about getting through the most reactors...
--Scott

Lol! Yeah right! You must be new here...

#6537 81 days ago

Finally installed the new code yesterday. Wow! I love the new light shows, and the improved arrow flashing during ball locks and when the reactor is critical is perfect!

Thanks!

#6560 79 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

It shoudl be good. "Normal" is where I like the shaker to be. In fact, on Normal, it maxes out at 90%, so it will never go above that. I just need to revamp how the lower settings are handled on Low.

Yeah, I think some folks need a level where the shaker is "there", but really, really subtle. Not sure how difficult it would be, but maybe even at the lowest setting it doesn't run the entire time the reactor is critical, just subtle kicks now and then as targets are hit, pop bumper, etc.

1 month later
#6809 46 days ago
Quoted from THEFOZ:

Here’s the reactor coolant pump and fan sketch. Ridiculous? Jump to conclusions mat?
[quoted image]

Use gin instead of water, nothing will grow in it, and it glows under UV light.

#6812 46 days ago
Quoted from THEFOZ:

Roger that, Imma pick up some Bombay and mull it over with some tonic

Oh yeah, I forgot it's the tonic that glows, not the gin.

1 month later
#6938 3 hours ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I did not put one there because it would have interfered with the launch ramp and there was not really much room to put one in. Chose to make it a 1 spinner game and I think it turned out great!
--Scott

I think what it *really* needs is a second or even third spinner on the left orbit! 3x the fun!

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