(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

3 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (3 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (3 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (3 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (3 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (3 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (3 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (3 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (3 years ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (3 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2266 3 years ago

#412. Put a deposit down at MGC this weekend. I have a wait ahead of me but I am excited!

#2268 3 years ago

I searched but couldn't find the answer. Are there extra balls other than the one at reactor 3? I swear I saw Bowen get like 3 in one game at MGC, but maybe I am mistaken.

I asked Scott a million rules questions (ok maybe 5), so I don't want to be a nuisance

#2271 3 years ago

Cool, thanks Hilton!

1 week later
#2428 3 years ago

I doubt I will be able to hear the fan over the music.

1 week later
#2565 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Is anyone affiliated with Spooky in this forum?


#2568 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Ok, I must be blind but I don’t see a link In the thread for an alternate “improved” display that has the same mounting points. Has someone does this already, or is this all talk?

This one?


#2569 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I know scott is, but would also be good to get a list so users can 'tune-into' official posts only.


#2604 2 years ago

I have played this game in four locations and not had a problem with the GI as designed. To each his own.

1 week later
#2706 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Scott, any tips on tweaking the left scoop? I'm getting a ton of bounce outs on what seem to be solid shots.

I'm curious about this too. I was having the same problem on location (Logan Arcade in Chicago). I didn't notice this at other locations I've played.

#2716 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

It took you this long to figures it out

scott hates sys11 games I heard...

Could've fooled me with all the LIONMAN talk!

2 weeks later
#2855 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

*** Scott, my only request for a code update add-on would be from my son. He noticed the Password/code for every reactor is the same #5240. It would be cool to have this be random or at least different for every reactor. This would help with the narrative of the game. A little detail, but one I can't un-see since he pointed it out when we were able to beat reactor 3 on co-op the other night.

This is by design. Scott told me 5240 is an area code in Australia where someone lives (someone who worked on the game? Don't remember).

Quoted from Crile1:

I was under the impression that the whole game (for both player 1 and 2) would end if one of us reached total annihilation.

I think the game is just supposed to end for the player who destroyed all the reactors. It wouldn't make sense to end for everyone.

#2857 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

So you're saying he needs 8 more zip codes?

It's funny. I asked Scott about it at MGC. I asked him if the code meant anything (thinking it may have something to do with the keypad targets), but that was before I realized it was the same code every time.

1 month later
#3261 2 years ago

#412 here. Thinking early 2019

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#3277 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I don’t understand why that outlet on the wall is horizontal? I’ve never seen anything like that.

I think it looks better. I've built three houses in Illinois and the builder always did it thay way, so maybe I'm just used to it.

3 months later
#3885 2 years ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

I was getting knockdown problems on drop #2 pretty much straight out of the box. Not a switch issue, but when the finger fired to drop the target, it would not fall consistently.
I double checked, and everything was aligned as it should be. I also tried increasing the coil power for that particular knockdown coil. I was still getting intermittent errors.
I saw a link you posted about a lighter spring, so I made the assumption (without reading too far back in the thread like I probably should have) that the coil was not able to apply adequate force through said finger to drop the target due to the heavy spring.
I replaced the spring and haven't had another error on that drop after about 30 games and quite a few cycles in test mode with no other changes to anything else. So now, based on what you are saying, I am at a loss as to why the knockdown seems to work 100% with the light spring and not with the standard spring.
Is there any negative that you are aware of to running the light spring? If not, I am going to stick with what works.
P.S. There is some sort of bug in the drop target test code, because I did manage to find it the other day working through all this. It was performing the drop target and knockdown steps in an odd order and registering errors. A reboot resolved the issue. If I am able to reproduce, I will let you know how I did it and will try to detail what it is doing.
Oh, and by the way... This pin is AMAZING! Fantastic job!

Yeah, I habe had the same problem with drop #2 since I got the game a week ago. Are the 10-120 springs that Scott linked from Pinball Life lighter or exactly the same as the factory ones? I just ordered a set but haven't replaced them yet. Based on your experience, I will at least give the new ones a try before doing further troubleshooting.

My assumption was that these springs would be lighter, allowing the coil to more easily drop the target.

#3892 2 years ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

The 10-120 are quite a bit lighter than the springs that came on the pin. I also ordered a set of them expecting that I could just replace all of them. However, I experienced another issue on the other knockdowns running the lighter spring... especially on knockdown 3. The finger would stay forward in the knockdown posistion after the knockdown coil fired and would not return to the unfired position again. It was like the light spring didn't have enough tension to bring #1 and #3 back consistently. So, I put the original springs back on those. Is seems that #2 is the only one that needed the spring... at least on my particular machine. If there was a spring with a tension somewhere between the stock and 10-120, I wonder if that would work 100% on all three???? Hmmmm

Yep, I will just replace #2 and go from there. I have the error on that target pretty much every game. Thanks!

I am loving the game though.

#3910 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

So I found that spring 3 (in pic) was stuck in a compressed position. I jiggled it a little and it snapped back into place. So now the drop target test works as it should.
The targets appear to work now except that after locking 2 ball and hitting the drop target for MB, the machine seems a little delayed in realizing that I started MB - even though the target drops immediately and the balls come out. I don't remember it doing that before a few days ago - it was almost instant.
I also still get a bunch or drop target errors on just about every ball, but the targets seem to be working except for what I mentioned last paragraph.
Any ideas? Thanks.
[quoted image]

So my problem was spring #2 in your picture. I went into coil test and set it to repeatedly fire the coil that drops target #2. I noticed that if I pulled that long spring on the plastic part of the assembly (#2), it would reset fine. I just swapped that spring with the one on target #3 for now and both work consistently.

Does anyone know where I can get replacements for the short, thick spring. I bought three of the 10-120 springs, but they are too light. I stretched and cut one of the originals in trying to get this to work. Everything works ok now, but I'd like to add a spring to my next PBL order so it's back to factory.

#3912 2 years ago

Thanks, Scott! So was 10-120 supposed to replace spring #2 in this picture?


If so, that would have solved my issue a couple of hours ago, and I need to work on my reading comprehension.

I had assumed it was supposed to replace spring #1 due to its size. Oops!

I'm loving the game by the way. I just picked it up a week ago. Great work!

#3921 2 years ago

I'm having the worst time with this left scoop. Never had a problem with the games Spooky brought to MGC this year. I played it all weekend and put a deposit down.

Then I played on location, and it seemed like every direct solid shot bricked out. Only soft shots or carroms made it in. I figured when I got my game, I would be able to make some adjustments.

I have tried bending the scoop, lowering with washers (don't really like this option because I don't want to damage the scoop area), and even putting felt pads on the back of the scoops.

If anyone else has any tips I would appreciate it.

#3925 2 years ago

Yeah, I realize part of it is just that I need to be more accurate and it's just a hard shot to make. I may also try decreasing right flipper strength a tad. I noticed a couple people said bending the scoop down a little made a big difference. Maybe I bent too far. I'll play around some more.

I think I'd enjoy the game more if the scoop was as forgiving as the one on my TAF

The TAF scoop obviously has sides (and posts flanking it) which makes it easy.

#3948 2 years ago

Thanks for all the pointers everyone in terms of scoop bounce outs. A few minutes after ordering a couple strips of drop dead foam from Pinbits, I realized something. When I was bending the scoop, I was basically just pushing down on the front of the scoop. I found that if I instead pushed from the back of the scoop and bent that way, it was much more effective in trapping the ball.

If the back of the scoop is angled slightly down instead of being perpendicular to the ball, obviously that will decrease bounce outs. That's probably obvious to most of you, but it took me a while

Now I can back hand the shot a lot more reliably, and even right flipper shots stay in more often. I hope this isn't just a honeymoon phase, but this game is amazing, and I haven't even played a multiplayer game on my machine yet!

#3951 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Just an FYI, that shot is not ever a gimme out of the core either. It can skip right over if you get it screaming around in there. If I have a reactor start sometimes I will trap up in the core and let it out slowly to guarantee it goes in the scoop. At least that works well on my game.

Yep, it doesn't happen too often on my game though. It's funny though, I always get the most action out of the slings when I just want the ball to drop, so I can have a crack at the speed run record!

#3958 2 years ago
Quoted from xbmanx:

I was able to test the optos and they both work fine when i pass my finger over them according to the switch test. The coil to kick the balls out just keeps going off. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thank you

Is the switch in the shooter lane working correctly?

#3976 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Are there high score lists for anything besides single player mode?
I’m also unsure how the speed run leader board works. Is it time from reactor active light at scoop or from the time the reactor is overheated ready to destroy?

Speed run starts when you activate the reactor at the scoop. You then have to get it to 100% and destroy it.

#3990 2 years ago
Quoted from DadofTwins:

^^^^^^ check the Danesi website. Think I saw a link there.

I saw service menu information, but no manual, switch matrix, schematics, etc.

#3995 2 years ago

Ugh, I'm already losing paint around the post next to the scoop. I lost a small bit under the post and tried putting more Mylar underneath to prevent further damage, but after playing the Mylar doesn't stay in place.

I may have to Mylar a larger area, but this makes me sick. I'm also concerned that if I ever remove the Mylar, it will just pull the pant off. I don't understand why the clear isn't protecting it.

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#4002 2 years ago

Mine is #412. I reached out to Spooky support. Personally, I would be ok with a spare PF so I could enjoy the game and do a swap down the line, but I realize that's not for everyone.

#4010 2 years ago

It's odd the way the paint came off though. It's as if there is no clearcoat. No chunks of clear came off, just paper thin spots of paint.

#4013 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Reach out to team Spooky to see what they say?

Yep, I sent an email to their support yesterday morning.

#4015 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

How do I tell what number game I have?

It should be on a label on the right side (inside) of the cabinet.

#4018 2 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Hate to say this but it won’t. They will start peeling off almost instantly. At least that’s what happened to me. I think they are just too thin to do anything.

Yeah, in my case, they just worked themselves loose, and then when I removed them, they pulled up more paint.

#4022 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I think it was the mylar that pulled up the play field.
Anyone get a response from spooky today?

Yes, but Mylar on a properly cleared playfield isn't going to pull up artwork. I did not hear from Spooky today.

#4025 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Nah. I'm #169 and have the same issue. The star posts really dig into the playfield and make the clear and paint twist and come up, kinda like when leg decals wrinkle from those terrible plastic "protectors". I don't think I ever would have noticed it if it wasn't pointed out here as I tend to play my games with my head more than six inches away from the playfield

Yeah, I think people are seeing two different issues. I think earlier in the run (like your machine), the posts may have been installed on a playfield with clearcoat that hadn't fully cured. Someone posted pictures of a case like this earlier in the thread.

What I am seeing I believe is different. There appears to be no clearcoat on the affected area.

#4029 2 years ago

Charlie sent a note that he just got back from a show and would get back to me soon. I was going to go around and put neoprene washers under the star posts to cover the damage. Here is the bottom post of the right sling. The art was stuck to the edge of the post. This is the first time I have removed this post.

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#4048 2 years ago
Quoted from bsobie:

Do the washers affect game play? And did you have to use longer mounting hardware with the washers installed?

Nah, same hardware. They look like the ones I got at Home Depot. Should not affect game play as they do not extend further than the rubber rings above them.

#4061 2 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Happy to see you guys like what I tried out. Hopefully it works out ok! I guess the jury is out if the neoprene/rubber will wear anything down at all itself but it definitely covers up anything that might already be there and it’s flexibility may help taking blows. I’d assume a soft rubber ring would do a lot less damage than sharp hard plastic!

Yeah, I started off with neoprene like you did. I then switched to nylon washers that are exactly the same size as the star post base, except for the post that doesn't cover all the damage. I left that with neoprene since the black doesn't stand out as much.

I would think both nylon and neoprene should prevent further damage but the rubber may be safer. Not sure.

#4064 2 years ago

Sometimes one of the orbit shots will light up pink seemingly randomly (before a reactor has been started at the scoop).

Is that truly random, or can it be triggered somehow?

#4065 2 years ago


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#4101 2 years ago
Quoted from Meorrow:

When the ball goes down an inlane, the opposite orbit will light up. It doesn't stay lit for long - you *almost* have to send the ball through the orbit as it's leaving the inlane to get it in time, though I've managed to brick the shot and still get it up there with a second try occasionally.

Ok, is that only after qualifying the reactor with the keypad (9x9 grid in front of the standups)? Seems to be.

#4103 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

From reactor 4 onwards you can only enter the reactor from one side.
The orbit light will tell you which side you can enter.
The sides alternate with switch hits to the bottom in lanes.
Is this what you are talking about?

No, I'm talking about before you hit the scoop to start the reactor (i.e. before the reactor music starts). I know what you're talking about with reactor four and later.

This is earlier than that. I will briefly see one side light up pink and then disappear (then neither side is lit).

#4107 2 years ago
Quoted from Meorrow:

Nope, you can definitely do it before the reactor is qualified. When I'm playing I basically have it in my head that any time the ball goes down an inlane, I should be aiming for the outlanes as it comes to the flipper to build reactor value. It'll also work while the reactor is qualified to get you up in there to (hopefully) fall in the scoop so you don't have to watch your shots bounce out of the scoop over and over

Awesome, I'll have to watch for that, especially given the struggles I have with hitting that scoop! I have some drop dead foam coming from Pinbits which may help.

#4111 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I see that label that has the serial number, but no game number - unless it's the last 3 of the S/N.

Yep, I am #412, and the last 3 of my S/N are 412.

#4175 2 years ago

The one and only time I dropped a playfield into a cabinet was with a Baywatch. I think it was the first game I owned with that style of rails. I think I must have expected it to lock like my STTNG and just kept pulling.

Now I'm just used to it (and more careful).

#4190 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

In case anyone was wondering, I installed these today and they fit the base of the star posts quite well. When you tighten it down, it squishes just enough to cover up any paint loss. I didnt take any pictures but I would recommend these under all of the star posts that see contact with the ball.

I ordered a set of these. I like them, but man they are sticky, which worries me a bit. I will probably stay with the nylon washers.

#4192 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I didnt think they were sticky at all. They are silicone, so if anything, they should be nonstick?

I am probably being paranoid, but they are sticky to the touch. Maybe I'll just wipe them down or something.

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#4194 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Clammy hands?
I think they should be ok. I'll check tomorrow to see if they're sticking to the pf at all.

Haha, yeah, but even in the package they were all sticking to each other. I am sure they are fine. Probably just traumatized after having the playfield paint stick to the star posts.

#4220 2 years ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Same. The only stickiness I felt was them being stuck together. I'm not concerned in the least. I'll still check mine once I'm back in town to put any other fears to rest.

Yep, I was perhaps being a little hysterical

1 week later
#4319 2 years ago
Quoted from callaway15:

The only thing I'm wondering about now is if my yellow circle targets are always registering when I hit them. I've done the test checks on them, and they seem to register properly. When I'm playing though, I don't always get that tap sound that they've been hit -- like I remember from other TNA's I've played. I've looked for a setting to increase sensitivity of these -- is there adjustment? Are there other recommended setting changes from default?
Thanks again.

Standup targets have to be adjusted manually. You can push the targets manually with your fingers to compress the foam. You can also tweak the target switches slightly with an adjustment tool or needle nose pliers. It is easier to do this after removing the targets from underneath the playfield.

1 month later
#4703 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Yes he did, he also suggested removing the scoop and adding a washer or two between the playfield and the scoop thus lowering the scoop slightly.
I have done this and it certainly helps with rejects, still a tough shot but better.

I noticed on my game, there is a plastic piece between the right scoop and bottom of the playfield that lowers the scoop about an eighth inch or so. I wonder why the same wasn't done on the left scoop. Maybe because the left scoop is closer and dropping it may cause damage to the scoop edge?

#4714 2 years ago

Has anyone attempted to clone the drive of the UP Board computer? It looks like I could probably do so via the USB 3.0 port, but I will need power to the board. Should I be able to clone the drive while the computer is in the game powered on, so it can get its 5V?

#4717 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Still fires out crazy fast too?

Hopefully. I am going to try the velcro as soon as I get home. I tried drop dead foam, and it didn't do much.

1 week later
#4754 2 years ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

Need some help.my metal bracket on my pop bumper had dropped. When I opened the machine found these six washers and two screws. What's the correct way to reattach?
kingpingames any advice?
[quoted image][quoted image]

There are two threaded rods that come down from the pop bumper ring. Each will go through three washers, then the two yokes and secured with the lock washer.

#4755 2 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

There are two threaded rods that come down from the pop bumper ring. Each will go through three washers, then the two yokes and secured with the lock washer.

Oops. I would trust KingPinGames over my post, though I have always seen what I posted on plenty of games, only with 1 washers not 3, as described here:


2 weeks later
#4860 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Those Noctua fans are awesome! I am totally buying that if you say it is a quiet fan. The fan noise in the game has become more annoying to me over time.
As for the display calibration, where do you access that?

There are buttons on the back of the LCD panel.

#4898 2 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

Has anyone attempted to clone the drive of the UP Board computer? It looks like I could probably do so via the USB 3.0 port, but I will need power to the board. Should I be able to clone the drive while the computer is in the game powered on, so it can get its 5V?

Bumping this. I can't think of why this would be a problem, but has anyone cloned the computer in this game? Is doing it with the game powered on the right approach?

#4900 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I would not risk it as it is totally unnecessary and probably would not work. Spooky is still in business and can replace the PC if needed and has default images for these machines. I would just leave it be.

Cool, thanks Scott. I felt like I was on a roll after backing up my BoP. 2.0, which I think was a sane thing to do

#4915 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

My cat, on other hand, is really into pinballs...

Quoted from bsobie:

I wish my wife would get into Pinball

I have been buying games for 7 years. I think my wife has played each game exactly one time. Sad. My daughter isn't into it either, so it's usually me in the basement solo.

#4918 2 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Do my wife and I need to come play you? Lol

Any time! Didn't you used to live in Montgomery too?

#4920 2 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Yep. Used to live near the police station on Rt 30. Just about 15 mins north of there now.

Yeah, I remember seeing you on the Pinside map near me. I used to live in that same big neighborhood south of 30.

1 week later
#4927 2 years ago

Let me preface this by saying I am not usually a fan of mods that make the game easier, but I also think if it makes a game you own more enjoyable for you, then go for it.

I was getting tired of direct, on target shots from both flippers getting rejected by the scoop. I draped a piece of cloth (actually 2 pieces doubled over, so 4x thick) in front of the scoop opening. I used a thin cloth you might use for cleaning eyeglasses or cell phone screens. I hung it from a zip tie attached to a nearby post.

The idea is to absorb some of the ball's energy before it hits the scoop to reduce the chance of a bounce out. It actually works very well. I want to play some more games with it, but in the few games I played, I made almost all direct shots, even from the right flipper, something which was nearly impossible before on my game.

That being said, it's definitely ugly. I think a thick piece of thin clear plastic would be almost unnoticeable. A metal flap (like used on one way gates, but able to swing freely in both directions) would probably also work.

20190314_174945 (resized).jpg
#4929 2 years ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

Yes, that does look terrible! I think several of the guys put a piece of the black velcro.. the soft part, along the top inside of the scoop to soften it coming out of the scoop and it worked well.. Its in the thread here somewhere.

I have tried all kinds of solutions like that. Velcro, rubber pads, drop dead foam, etc. My problem is the ball bounces right off the back of the scoop, no matter what I cover it with.

#4932 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Bend the scoop forward.

I have done that x100, believe me.

#4933 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

play better (J/K)
that mod looks like toilet paper roll.


I know you're just busting my chops, but it was really just to see if slowing down the ball would help. I may try to find something less ugly if it turns out that it makes the game more fun for me (since I'm the only one who plays it).

#4935 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Bend the scoop forward.

Actually, I am going to play with this some more. I think the key may be "forward" not "down."

#4946 2 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Which fuse is it blowing? Note, the diagram attached shows with color (solid a color wire) is associated with the corresponding fuse. Check the wiring on the corresponding coils and see if any of them are shorting to ground. Also, manually move the plunger for each associated coil and see if there is any resistance. If there is, then check that coil for a bad coil sleeve.
If you have any other questions you can reach me a
[quoted image]

I can't wait to see this manual when it's available.

#4976 2 years ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

I had to remove the plastics and shape the arch with pliers to get a manageable delivery. It still hits the top of the sling at slow speeds but comes down clean 75% of the time.

Yeah, I didn't even loosen the nut underneath. I just bent the guide slightly inward as you did.

1 week later
#5044 2 years ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

I started saving for a pinball machine in 1997. For twenty years it was going to be Addams Family, until I saw Scott’s whitewood online. I followed closely as the game took shape, and production became reality. Spooky’s promise of quality, a trustworthy product worth investing in, confirmed a decision two decades in the making.
TNA 408 arrived on Nov 29, unplayable due to violent airballs and a misaligned autolauncher. The playfield immediately revealed severe damage, more than plastic washers would cover. Had I known what I was receiving, I would have refused delivery.
By Jan 3, with a combination of hardware and software modifications (sincere thanks to Scott), I managed to play my first full game. Things were looking up, but I was pulling the glass every 10-15 games to reattach blown solder joints (no shaker motor). I seem to have secured the problematic ones (3 on upper flipper and 2 on left scoop), but rarely turn it on as it continues to fail. I asked about obtaining a replacement flipper coil, and as with previous requests was told to place an order at Pinball Life. Snapped rubbers and deformed balls are considered “a part of regular maintenance” within the first two months. All this from a warranty that claims “We’ll cover parts in your game in home use for 1 year".
On Mar 5, the replacement playfield is ready to ship, however:
“It's pretty much just unscrew / transfer as you go. My guys can do it in about 90 minutes but ... not going to go that fast for a home user I'm sure. Personally, what I would (and most people do) is put the washers in the current game to cover the wear, and leave the flawless new playfield sit in the box until the old one is beat to death.”
Sending me something to keep in a box doesn’t fix anything. I directly asked for the price of a populated playfield in four different emails and this is the response I received: “If you were down here, I'd meet you at a show, have you come to the shop... whatever worked.” So if you choose to buy direct, make sure you live within driving distance.
“I give up” aren’t the words you want to hear from a business owner with whom you’ve invested your life’s savings, but here we are. I paid for a new machine and received a major project. It’s a heart breaking mistake I could only afford to make once, so at the very least it can’t happen again.
[quoted image]

I had very similar damage to my game (#412). When I initially contacted Charlie with pictures of the damage, he offered the washer fix. When I pointed out that I had damage that extended beyond the star posts, he offered a replacement (unpopulated) playfield, which I gladly accepted. I offered to pay for shipping, but Kayte shipped the playfield at no cost to me.

If the damage was hidden by the posts, Spooky would never have heard from me. Most games don't even have artwork under the star posts. I realize Spooky is not Stern and was not going to swap out a populated playfield with me. I was glad to support Spooky, and to me, Spooky sending a new playfield was more than fair in my case. And for that, they may have repeat business from me on Danesi Game #2 or something else.

I realize not everyone feels this way, and not everyone is comfortable with swaps or has the time for them, but I was happy to do the swap in order to have a nice new playfield with no art missing, as this game is a definite keeper for me.

#5051 2 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

Man I couldnt imagine paying for one of these games and then getting an unpopulated playfield were I had to do the whole switch myself. I'm glad your happy but man I'd be pissed. Hell I'm pretty upset having my playfield damaged under the star post and using washers to hopefully prevent more damage.
Why hasnt spooky come forward to say what the problem is/was that has been supposedly fixed?

I don't know. I've done several swaps, and it's something mildly satisfying to do as I drink in the basement. This was probably the easiest one because of the way it was built. For example, the pop bumper assembly comes out in one piece, no ground braid stapled to the playfield, etc. The only pain point was just the sheer number of individual LEDs that needed to be transferred.

#5056 2 years ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

I will, since you’re more concerned about preserving your public image than actually helping.
[quoted image]

After reading all of that, I'll just say you catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar.

#5072 2 years ago

This thread really took a bad turn. Let me change direction a little.

I finally destroyed reactor 7 on Monday. I was half way through ball 2 when I destroyed 6, so 7 was a struggle. I had a little over 8 million points. I came upstairs to tell my wife, and she said I looked like I just ran a race.

#5074 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Damn...I'm still stalled out at 5.

Kind of a freak game (like 1 in a 100). I think I only destroyed 6 one other time. It's awesome getting that 2nd extra ball!

#5080 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Stock all the way. I play the short plunge and live catch to the flipper for every plunge and after every lock. Get that down and you’ll start having more success.

I have gotten pretty good at the secret skill shot, live catch and back handing the lock shot. I still can't master the soft plunge.

I am on factory settings, 3 balls. I did make sure to make the standups and upper slings as sensitive as possible, which helps.

#5083 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Mastering the short plunge and the plunge that falls into the reactor is huge.

Ok, I should have clarified. I can do the short plunge (to the right flipper) all day. The plunge into the reactor is what I struggle with. So many times I think I have it and it bounces off the first lane guide and back down the right orbit. I started erring on the side of overshooting it so at least I have a shot at the secret skillshot.

Strangely, I seem to have better luck plunging into the reactor area during multiball than during normal play.

#5084 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

You're doing Spooky a favor by never buying a game from them again... I was with you until you started complaining about the dents on the pinballs and rubber rings getting worn out. This is clearly the wrong hobby for you, and posting that mail chain does not help your case in the slightest. Great job wearing out one of the nicest guys in the hobby, yikes.

Yeah, I almost want to post my email exchange with Charlie just so you guys could see the contrast. I expressed to him that I didn't want to come off as a difficult buyer, and he couldn't have been nicer about the whole thing.

#5086 2 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

You spend 6-7 grand and you’re worried about the guy selling you the product thinking you’re a difficult buyer?

It was under 6000.

But seriously, yeah, that about sums it up. I guess it was just the way I was raised. Or maybe just low self esteem. Let me put it this way. I have never sent food back at a restaurant, and I absolutely hate returning stuff to a store.

2 weeks later
#5248 2 years ago

Sweet! Printing this out tomorrow.

I don't know what it is with this game, but I actually enjoy it more the longer I own it. I played co-op mode for the first time at MGC and then last weekend with my brother and it's a blast.

We destroyed reactor 9 on a 4-player game. Our goal is to do it with 3 balls each. I don't think my brother was trying to blow smoke up my ass just because I had a new game. He seemed to really enjoy it, and he has seen me buy and sell a few games over the years.

3 weeks later
#5363 1 year ago
Quoted from Hyped:

Hello, I was wondering if anyone else has problems with static from the speakers? This doesn’t always happen but every once in a while I get major static from the speakers during game play. I checked all of the connections and they appear secure. I have the speaker volume set to the lowest setting.
Any helpful hints would be great.

Yeah. All the time, and it happened when I took it to a show. I ended up hot gluing the mini stereo jack connection to the amp to keep it from coming loose. We'll see if that helps. I think that's the only thing Spooky didn't hot glue

#5364 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Does anyone ever consider it being a concern when few games were made - such as this one - and you keep seeing them pop up for sale?
Probably not? I mean there could be a 1,000 reasons someone wants to sell something and I would assume it’s only because they want something else more.

I don't worry about stuff like that. It's just flat out the funnest game I've ever played. Some people get it, and a lot of people don't. I have also seen posts on here where people are looking for a TNA but can't find one.

3 weeks later
#5427 1 year ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Drop targets can be triggered with software . , it is done with an extra coil used to trigger them . They are triggered at the end of the game to release any locked balls .

Yeah, there is also a test in the game to lower/raise the targets one at a time.

4 weeks later
#5542 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Here’s some pics for swapping the psu fan. You need to remove the psu from the machine. Open it’s case. Remove the screws from the PCB to free the fan. Cut the fan wire from the old fan. Solder it on the new fan.
About an hour of work. $10 in parts.
The mod cut the noise down by 80%. Now it’s great and not annoying at all.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Hoping someone will see this since I have my game apart. So just red/black to red/black?

In other words, red/black wires from the plug in the computer to where the red/black wires were on the new fan?

#5545 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Yes, it's that simple. If you have a yellow wire on your new fan just ignore it, that's for speed control, power supply won't use it. Just need red and black, match them up, done.

Yep, I was reading up and figured out exactly what you said. Thanks!

#5546 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Can you post a picture also what fan did you use?

I used the Stealth model posted earlier in this thread.

3 months later
#5905 1 year ago
Quoted from Amarillopinball:

Would doing a playfield swap on this machine require soldering?

I did a swap and don't recall having to desolder anything. The pop bumper comes out in one piece which is awesome.

#5907 1 year ago
Quoted from Amarillopinball:

Cool thanks for the info. Why did you have to do a swap?

I had some art chipping around several posts.

#5909 1 year ago
Quoted from Amarillopinball:

Do you happen to have any pics or documentation of the swap saved?

No, I don't, sorry. It's pretty straightforward as swaps go. Probably the most time intensive part was transferring all the LEDs!

Be sure to note that the back scoop has a plastic piece on the bottom of the playfield and longer mounting screws to account for it. I mention that because I accidentally drove a longer screw through the top of the playfield from the bottom!

Luckily, I was able to tap it down and touch it up so you wouldn't notice it unless I pointed it out.

#5935 1 year ago

I have had this game for a year now and it is just amazing. I don't get tired of it. I don't get it when people say it doesn't do well in a small collection or isn't fun playing solo. Just a well designed, really fun game.

#5940 1 year ago

There's no getting around losing high scores when updating software, correct?

#5942 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Correct. I chose not to put effort into this feature because I was constantly tweaking the scoring.

Yeah, makes sense for that reason. I think I'll upgrade today after I get my neon protectors from PBL today! I'll just have to put up some new scores.

#5945 1 year ago
Quoted from Carveair:

Hello All, any suggestions regarding a fix for a Core Sling that contiuously fires? Thanks

Did you check that the switch is gapped properly?

#5953 1 year ago
Quoted from beekey:

Hello all, does anyone have insight on the production runs and production numbers of TNA? I ordered number 500 NIB, seller told me it was the last one built, but I guess this might not be the truth..

550 were made. #550 was auctioned off at the Pinball Life open house last Friday.

#5965 1 year ago

I was just thinking how cool it was in the basement (my wife is using the fireplace upstairs, which is just one room over from the thermostat).

Nothing like a brisk game of TNA to remedy that! I was literally sweating. To me there is nothing more intense in pinball than trying to destroy the reactors, especially later in the game.

Had #7 lit, but obviously didn't destroy it. One of my best games.
15722060257304709724203410344620 (resized).jpg

#5976 1 year ago

I'm such a sucker. I bought the game with clear protectors, then bought the red ones, then I bought the green set!

#5984 1 year ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Are you set to 10-ball game? I’d need that and maybe another 10 extra balls to even come close to that...maybe.

I have the outlanes set to the easiest setting. I do this on all my games unless they get too easy for me (TAF I set to medium).

3-ball game. I just play this game a lot and have gotten good at live catches, locking balls, etc. I have destroyed #7 a couple times. I feel like I could possibly beat the game one day if I get better, but those last few reactors are tough.

#5987 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I didnt have any issues installing the green protectors. I used all the same hardware as initially.

I had to replace the outlane post screws with longer screws when I installed the red protectors, which I am guessing are the same thickness as these new green ones.

#5992 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

That's instersting. I was early-ish run #163. I wonder if they changed hardware at some point in the run.

Maybe. I'm #412. Not a big deal since it was only two screws and I had some longer ones.

#5993 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey there! I really do like the green protectors as they really do some cool futuristic looking stuff with the blue in the lightshows. Honestly, this is still a mod and you need to decide if you really like it or not. I did put them on my personal game and enjoy them though!
I have not yet set up a way to light the clear drops, but I will get to it. I am probably just going to make a kit with 3 leds and a new harness in it to light them. Then I can control them with the software. I will keep the group here posted.

Sweet! I'd definitely be a buyer. Awesome that you're still tweaking this thing all while working on the new one.

#5998 1 year ago
Quoted from Zukram:

Hey all, using the latest beta code (I upgraded from 1.21 a few days ago, shaker seems used alot more since), and after starting a reactor, the shaker is going continually and can I hear load random-ish load crackle/interference from the speakers, I think from the back box. This started yesterday, and dont recall it for the first couple of days on this code, or the couple of days I had the game before. During the rest of game play sounds are fine. Wondering if anyone has had this happen, ideas on what to look for ? Should I search for a loose connection somewhere ?


2 weeks later
#6056 1 year ago
Quoted from tommyv-tmv:

Is there a way to prevent the start button from flashing while it's in attract mode and set on free play?

You could remove the LED from the button.

2 weeks later
#6104 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

The scoop decal is finally starting to show its age.[quoted image]

I thought it was supposed to go on top.

#6106 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

It is. He sent me an extra to see how it would survive, so I have one in both places.

Ok, good. Sorry for the mansplaining.

#6113 1 year ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Men don't say "mansplaining".

It was tongue in cheek since I was explaining something to a man (I assume)

2 weeks later
#6168 1 year ago
Quoted from twhtalm:

I've played several different TNA's and the stuck ball happened only on the machine without the factory plastic protectors.

Interesting. I almost added those gate guards to my Pinball Life order last night but decided it was unnecessary since I have probably 1,000 games on mine and have never had a stuck ball. Even took it to a show for a weekend. I've always had the protectors on though.

3 months later
#6426 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Well I got my Cliffy installed. It was pretty straightforward to install, you have to totally pull off the scoop mech to get the clip under, but that's not really a big deal. Overall I don't think it made the scoop much harder to hit, it actually does make it easier to get the ball into the reactor though. Conversely it also makes it easier for the ball to roll over the scoop and not go in when coming out of the reactor.
I only played a couple of games with it on, so I'll provide more thorough feedback once I have a few dozen games with it on.[quoted image]

Did you contact Cliff directly? I don't see TNA on his site. Thanks.

My scoop hole is starting to get beat up, but I'm afraid it's going to make the scoop shot even more difficult!

#6447 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I have something weird occuring with the secret skillshot.
Twice now it has happened, Ball 1 first plunge (without delay), around the loop dead bounce from left to right and flick full toss into the lock. Most times this awards me Secret Skill Shot, but the second time now I have been awarded "Lock Quickshot" or something, for much less. I have collected this before as well, by plunging ahead on an autolaunch deadbounce and right flip only once into lock.
Just seem to be getting ripped off the Secret skillshot now and then from game start, for unknown reason.
Those Destroy lights are now a Real Highlight!

I believe you can only get the secret skillshot once per ball.

#6449 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Ball one, new game, score zero.

Sorry, I misread your post. When you said "second time," I thought you meant on that ball.

It might be possible you have a sensitive switch somewhere that is getting triggered, causing the skill shot to not be awarded.

2 weeks later
#6636 1 year ago

Just got done with joelbob's Zoom meeting a few minutes ago. Anyone who was on the fence should try to join up next time. Doing the challenges together is fun, and you can chat about pinball in between.

#6650 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Green and Pink
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think I might give that a try. I have the green installed, and I already have the pink sling and lane guide protectors.

3 weeks later
#6814 11 months ago
Quoted from CullenT:

Hello everyone, new to the club and loving my TNA. One of the few pins I truly miss when away for a stretch.
Question- is there an updated manual with playfield part #s populated?
The timely issue is to replace broken star post and wondering if 03-8319-13 is correct part.

Here's a manual KingPinGames started, but it looks like playfield parts are not there yet:


The game uses standard star posts, so the one you posted is correct.

#6820 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

It can get a little fidly, but fyi I changed the drops without removing the mechs. Just removing the two circlips. They can fit out through the bottom side of playfield. Getting the new drops, washers, spring and circlips back in place can take a bit of fingenangling. Lol

I always thought they were called e clips, but either way I hate them. I removed the three screws to remove the mech, which made it easier for me to swap out the targets. It also gave me room to install the new LED boards.

For the two front drops, I reused the hex screw and metal spacer for the nearby insert LED (one screw, two LED boards).

This is a great mod! Well worth the trouble.

#6823 11 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Do you have pictures of the underside?

20200527_201329 (resized).jpg
#6848 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I think I will soon give the green protectors a go.

I think the drops look great with clear protectors. I wonder about a clear slot running up the middle of the lock lane, in the protector so that a portion stays clear?

I was thinking the same thing. You will have the same issue with the green protectors. Blue essentially disappears under the green ones.

4 months later
#7192 7 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Hella Yeah!!
My first ever game was Maverick. Those SEGA slides hey! (same basic thing). Right from the very begining I cringed trying to do that.
Not everyone may be able to do this, but I created myself a method that day that I use for most pins (well all apart from B/W slides and direct pivot)... that is to lift the playfield back in by supporting the back by under playfield (through gap between backbox and playfield), with the other hand/arm. Grabbing playfield both ends.
It is the natural way I go about sliding my playfields back in on games like TNA or Baywatch etc, to this day.
Full control, no runup crash or shock. Have to take the benefits of long arms Lol

I do the same (lift the back of the playfield to get over the hump).

1 month later
#7372 5 months ago

Thanks to mackey256 for the under the playfield pic of the scoop LED mounting. It was very helpful. And thanks to TheNoTrashCougar for the software support!

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