#412. Put a deposit down at MGC this weekend. I have a wait ahead of me but I am excited!

I searched but couldn't find the answer. Are there extra balls other than the one at reactor 3? I swear I saw Bowen get like 3 in one game at MGC, but maybe I am mistaken.

I asked Scott a million rules questions (ok maybe 5), so I don't want to be a nuisance

Cool, thanks Hilton!

I doubt I will be able to hear the fan over the music.

Yes.

This one?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/51#post-4389862

SpookyCharlie
SpookyKT

I have played this game in four locations and not had a problem with the GI as designed. To each his own.

I'm curious about this too. I was having the same problem on location (Logan Arcade in Chicago). I didn't notice this at other locations I've played.

Could've fooled me with all the LIONMAN talk!

This is by design. Scott told me 5240 is an area code in Australia where someone lives (someone who worked on the game? Don't remember).

I think the game is just supposed to end for the player who destroyed all the reactors. It wouldn't make sense to end for everyone.

It's funny. I asked Scott about it at MGC. I asked him if the code meant anything (thinking it may have something to do with the keypad targets), but that was before I realized it was the same code every time.

#412 here. Thinking early 2019

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I think it looks better. I've built three houses in Illinois and the builder always did it thay way, so maybe I'm just used to it.

Yeah, I habe had the same problem with drop #2 since I got the game a week ago. Are the 10-120 springs that Scott linked from Pinball Life lighter or exactly the same as the factory ones? I just ordered a set but haven't replaced them yet. Based on your experience, I will at least give the new ones a try before doing further troubleshooting.

My assumption was that these springs would be lighter, allowing the coil to more easily drop the target.

Yep, I will just replace #2 and go from there. I have the error on that target pretty much every game. Thanks!

I am loving the game though.

So my problem was spring #2 in your picture. I went into coil test and set it to repeatedly fire the coil that drops target #2. I noticed that if I pulled that long spring on the plastic part of the assembly (#2), it would reset fine. I just swapped that spring with the one on target #3 for now and both work consistently.

Does anyone know where I can get replacements for the short, thick spring. I bought three of the 10-120 springs, but they are too light. I stretched and cut one of the originals in trying to get this to work. Everything works ok now, but I'd like to add a spring to my next PBL order so it's back to factory.

Thanks, Scott! So was 10-120 supposed to replace spring #2 in this picture?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/78#post-4699953

If so, that would have solved my issue a couple of hours ago, and I need to work on my reading comprehension.

I had assumed it was supposed to replace spring #1 due to its size. Oops!

I'm loving the game by the way. I just picked it up a week ago. Great work!

I'm having the worst time with this left scoop. Never had a problem with the games Spooky brought to MGC this year. I played it all weekend and put a deposit down.

Then I played on location, and it seemed like every direct solid shot bricked out. Only soft shots or carroms made it in. I figured when I got my game, I would be able to make some adjustments.

I have tried bending the scoop, lowering with washers (don't really like this option because I don't want to damage the scoop area), and even putting felt pads on the back of the scoops.

If anyone else has any tips I would appreciate it.

Yeah, I realize part of it is just that I need to be more accurate and it's just a hard shot to make. I may also try decreasing right flipper strength a tad. I noticed a couple people said bending the scoop down a little made a big difference. Maybe I bent too far. I'll play around some more.

I think I'd enjoy the game more if the scoop was as forgiving as the one on my TAF

The TAF scoop obviously has sides (and posts flanking it) which makes it easy.

Thanks for all the pointers everyone in terms of scoop bounce outs. A few minutes after ordering a couple strips of drop dead foam from Pinbits, I realized something. When I was bending the scoop, I was basically just pushing down on the front of the scoop. I found that if I instead pushed from the back of the scoop and bent that way, it was much more effective in trapping the ball.

If the back of the scoop is angled slightly down instead of being perpendicular to the ball, obviously that will decrease bounce outs. That's probably obvious to most of you, but it took me a while

Now I can back hand the shot a lot more reliably, and even right flipper shots stay in more often. I hope this isn't just a honeymoon phase, but this game is amazing, and I haven't even played a multiplayer game on my machine yet!

Yep, it doesn't happen too often on my game though. It's funny though, I always get the most action out of the slings when I just want the ball to drop, so I can have a crack at the speed run record!

Is the switch in the shooter lane working correctly?

Speed run starts when you activate the reactor at the scoop. You then have to get it to 100% and destroy it.

I saw service menu information, but no manual, switch matrix, schematics, etc.

Ugh, I'm already losing paint around the post next to the scoop. I lost a small bit under the post and tried putting more Mylar underneath to prevent further damage, but after playing the Mylar doesn't stay in place.

I may have to Mylar a larger area, but this makes me sick. I'm also concerned that if I ever remove the Mylar, it will just pull the pant off. I don't understand why the clear isn't protecting it.

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Mine is #412. I reached out to Spooky support. Personally, I would be ok with a spare PF so I could enjoy the game and do a swap down the line, but I realize that's not for everyone.

It's odd the way the paint came off though. It's as if there is no clearcoat. No chunks of clear came off, just paper thin spots of paint.

Yep, I sent an email to their support yesterday morning.

It should be on a label on the right side (inside) of the cabinet.

Yeah, in my case, they just worked themselves loose, and then when I removed them, they pulled up more paint.

Yes, but Mylar on a properly cleared playfield isn't going to pull up artwork. I did not hear from Spooky today.

Yeah, I think people are seeing two different issues. I think earlier in the run (like your machine), the posts may have been installed on a playfield with clearcoat that hadn't fully cured. Someone posted pictures of a case like this earlier in the thread.

What I am seeing I believe is different. There appears to be no clearcoat on the affected area.

Charlie sent a note that he just got back from a show and would get back to me soon. I was going to go around and put neoprene washers under the star posts to cover the damage. Here is the bottom post of the right sling. The art was stuck to the edge of the post. This is the first time I have removed this post.

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Nah, same hardware. They look like the ones I got at Home Depot. Should not affect game play as they do not extend further than the rubber rings above them.

Yeah, I started off with neoprene like you did. I then switched to nylon washers that are exactly the same size as the star post base, except for the post that doesn't cover all the damage. I left that with neoprene since the black doesn't stand out as much.

I would think both nylon and neoprene should prevent further damage but the rubber may be safer. Not sure.

Sometimes one of the orbit shots will light up pink seemingly randomly (before a reactor has been started at the scoop).

Is that truly random, or can it be triggered somehow?

Yep.

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Ok, is that only after qualifying the reactor with the keypad (9x9 grid in front of the standups)? Seems to be.

No, I'm talking about before you hit the scoop to start the reactor (i.e. before the reactor music starts). I know what you're talking about with reactor four and later.

This is earlier than that. I will briefly see one side light up pink and then disappear (then neither side is lit).

Awesome, I'll have to watch for that, especially given the struggles I have with hitting that scoop! I have some drop dead foam coming from Pinbits which may help.

Yep, I am #412, and the last 3 of my S/N are 412.

The one and only time I dropped a playfield into a cabinet was with a Baywatch. I think it was the first game I owned with that style of rails. I think I must have expected it to lock like my STTNG and just kept pulling.

Now I'm just used to it (and more careful).

I ordered a set of these. I like them, but man they are sticky, which worries me a bit. I will probably stay with the nylon washers.

I am probably being paranoid, but they are sticky to the touch. Maybe I'll just wipe them down or something.

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Haha, yeah, but even in the package they were all sticking to each other. I am sure they are fine. Probably just traumatized after having the playfield paint stick to the star posts.

Yep, I was perhaps being a little hysterical

Standup targets have to be adjusted manually. You can push the targets manually with your fingers to compress the foam. You can also tweak the target switches slightly with an adjustment tool or needle nose pliers. It is easier to do this after removing the targets from underneath the playfield.

I noticed on my game, there is a plastic piece between the right scoop and bottom of the playfield that lowers the scoop about an eighth inch or so. I wonder why the same wasn't done on the left scoop. Maybe because the left scoop is closer and dropping it may cause damage to the scoop edge?

Has anyone attempted to clone the drive of the UP Board computer? It looks like I could probably do so via the USB 3.0 port, but I will need power to the board. Should I be able to clone the drive while the computer is in the game powered on, so it can get its 5V?

Hopefully. I am going to try the velcro as soon as I get home. I tried drop dead foam, and it didn't do much.

There are two threaded rods that come down from the pop bumper ring. Each will go through three washers, then the two yokes and secured with the lock washer.

Oops. I would trust KingPinGames over my post, though I have always seen what I posted on plenty of games, only with 1 washers not 3, as described here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485839

There are buttons on the back of the LCD panel.

Bumping this. I can't think of why this would be a problem, but has anyone cloned the computer in this game? Is doing it with the game powered on the right approach?

Cool, thanks Scott. I felt like I was on a roll after backing up my BoP. 2.0, which I think was a sane thing to do

I have been buying games for 7 years. I think my wife has played each game exactly one time. Sad. My daughter isn't into it either, so it's usually me in the basement solo.

Any time! Didn't you used to live in Montgomery too?

Yeah, I remember seeing you on the Pinside map near me. I used to live in that same big neighborhood south of 30.

Let me preface this by saying I am not usually a fan of mods that make the game easier, but I also think if it makes a game you own more enjoyable for you, then go for it.

I was getting tired of direct, on target shots from both flippers getting rejected by the scoop. I draped a piece of cloth (actually 2 pieces doubled over, so 4x thick) in front of the scoop opening. I used a thin cloth you might use for cleaning eyeglasses or cell phone screens. I hung it from a zip tie attached to a nearby post.

The idea is to absorb some of the ball's energy before it hits the scoop to reduce the chance of a bounce out. It actually works very well. I want to play some more games with it, but in the few games I played, I made almost all direct shots, even from the right flipper, something which was nearly impossible before on my game.

That being said, it's definitely ugly. I think a thick piece of thin clear plastic would be almost unnoticeable. A metal flap (like used on one way gates, but able to swing freely in both directions) would probably also work.

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I have tried all kinds of solutions like that. Velcro, rubber pads, drop dead foam, etc. My problem is the ball bounces right off the back of the scoop, no matter what I cover it with.

I have done that x100, believe me.

Thanks

I know you're just busting my chops, but it was really just to see if slowing down the ball would help. I may try to find something less ugly if it turns out that it makes the game more fun for me (since I'm the only one who plays it).

Actually, I am going to play with this some more. I think the key may be "forward" not "down."

I can't wait to see this manual when it's available.

Yeah, I didn't even loosen the nut underneath. I just bent the guide slightly inward as you did.

I had very similar damage to my game (#412). When I initially contacted Charlie with pictures of the damage, he offered the washer fix. When I pointed out that I had damage that extended beyond the star posts, he offered a replacement (unpopulated) playfield, which I gladly accepted. I offered to pay for shipping, but Kayte shipped the playfield at no cost to me.

If the damage was hidden by the posts, Spooky would never have heard from me. Most games don't even have artwork under the star posts. I realize Spooky is not Stern and was not going to swap out a populated playfield with me. I was glad to support Spooky, and to me, Spooky sending a new playfield was more than fair in my case. And for that, they may have repeat business from me on Danesi Game #2 or something else.

I realize not everyone feels this way, and not everyone is comfortable with swaps or has the time for them, but I was happy to do the swap in order to have a nice new playfield with no art missing, as this game is a definite keeper for me.

I don't know. I've done several swaps, and it's something mildly satisfying to do as I drink in the basement. This was probably the easiest one because of the way it was built. For example, the pop bumper assembly comes out in one piece, no ground braid stapled to the playfield, etc. The only pain point was just the sheer number of individual LEDs that needed to be transferred.

After reading all of that, I'll just say you catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar.

This thread really took a bad turn. Let me change direction a little.

I finally destroyed reactor 7 on Monday. I was half way through ball 2 when I destroyed 6, so 7 was a struggle. I had a little over 8 million points. I came upstairs to tell my wife, and she said I looked like I just ran a race.

Kind of a freak game (like 1 in a 100). I think I only destroyed 6 one other time. It's awesome getting that 2nd extra ball!

I have gotten pretty good at the secret skill shot, live catch and back handing the lock shot. I still can't master the soft plunge.

I am on factory settings, 3 balls. I did make sure to make the standups and upper slings as sensitive as possible, which helps.

Ok, I should have clarified. I can do the short plunge (to the right flipper) all day. The plunge into the reactor is what I struggle with. So many times I think I have it and it bounces off the first lane guide and back down the right orbit. I started erring on the side of overshooting it so at least I have a shot at the secret skillshot.

Strangely, I seem to have better luck plunging into the reactor area during multiball than during normal play.

Yeah, I almost want to post my email exchange with Charlie just so you guys could see the contrast. I expressed to him that I didn't want to come off as a difficult buyer, and he couldn't have been nicer about the whole thing.

It was under 6000.

But seriously, yeah, that about sums it up. I guess it was just the way I was raised. Or maybe just low self esteem. Let me put it this way. I have never sent food back at a restaurant, and I absolutely hate returning stuff to a store.

Sweet! Printing this out tomorrow.

I don't know what it is with this game, but I actually enjoy it more the longer I own it. I played co-op mode for the first time at MGC and then last weekend with my brother and it's a blast.

We destroyed reactor 9 on a 4-player game. Our goal is to do it with 3 balls each. I don't think my brother was trying to blow smoke up my ass just because I had a new game. He seemed to really enjoy it, and he has seen me buy and sell a few games over the years.

Yeah. All the time, and it happened when I took it to a show. I ended up hot gluing the mini stereo jack connection to the amp to keep it from coming loose. We'll see if that helps. I think that's the only thing Spooky didn't hot glue

I don't worry about stuff like that. It's just flat out the funnest game I've ever played. Some people get it, and a lot of people don't. I have also seen posts on here where people are looking for a TNA but can't find one.

Yeah, there is also a test in the game to lower/raise the targets one at a time.

Hoping someone will see this since I have my game apart. So just red/black to red/black?

In other words, red/black wires from the plug in the computer to where the red/black wires were on the new fan?

Yep, I was reading up and figured out exactly what you said. Thanks!

I used the Stealth model posted earlier in this thread.

I did a swap and don't recall having to desolder anything. The pop bumper comes out in one piece which is awesome.

I had some art chipping around several posts.

No, I don't, sorry. It's pretty straightforward as swaps go. Probably the most time intensive part was transferring all the LEDs!

Be sure to note that the back scoop has a plastic piece on the bottom of the playfield and longer mounting screws to account for it. I mention that because I accidentally drove a longer screw through the top of the playfield from the bottom!

Luckily, I was able to tap it down and touch it up so you wouldn't notice it unless I pointed it out.

I have had this game for a year now and it is just amazing. I don't get tired of it. I don't get it when people say it doesn't do well in a small collection or isn't fun playing solo. Just a well designed, really fun game.

There's no getting around losing high scores when updating software, correct?

Yeah, makes sense for that reason. I think I'll upgrade today after I get my neon protectors from PBL today! I'll just have to put up some new scores.

Did you check that the switch is gapped properly?

550 were made. #550 was auctioned off at the Pinball Life open house last Friday.

I was just thinking how cool it was in the basement (my wife is using the fireplace upstairs, which is just one room over from the thermostat).

Nothing like a brisk game of TNA to remedy that! I was literally sweating. To me there is nothing more intense in pinball than trying to destroy the reactors, especially later in the game.

Had #7 lit, but obviously didn't destroy it. One of my best games.
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I'm such a sucker. I bought the game with clear protectors, then bought the red ones, then I bought the green set!

I have the outlanes set to the easiest setting. I do this on all my games unless they get too easy for me (TAF I set to medium).

3-ball game. I just play this game a lot and have gotten good at live catches, locking balls, etc. I have destroyed #7 a couple times. I feel like I could possibly beat the game one day if I get better, but those last few reactors are tough.

I had to replace the outlane post screws with longer screws when I installed the red protectors, which I am guessing are the same thickness as these new green ones.

Maybe. I'm #412. Not a big deal since it was only two screws and I had some longer ones.

Sweet! I'd definitely be a buyer. Awesome that you're still tweaking this thing all while working on the new one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/108#post-5001097

You could remove the LED from the button.