Hemet, CA
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rerun-tna-side-rail-light-kit-need-20-interested-
Just in case anyone is interested. We definitely need more before he’ll consider a rerun.
(Topic ID: 195784)
Linked Games
Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017-
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
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Quoted from tectonyc:Further investigation finds that the reboot is caused by triggering the right scoop opto. The game will stay on until I block the right scoop opto, and then almost immediately resets.
Still can't get those J7 coils to fire though. It's like the scoop knows its supposed to fire the coil to get the ball out, can't, and so then freaks out and reboots. This only happens in attract mode (so I assume in gameplay) but not in the service menu, coil test, switch test etc. Other coils work fine.
Any ideas?
Im a little confused on your problem. Why are there ball going into the scoop in attract mode? Or are you just testing the system during attract mode? And if so have you tested the same situation during gameplay?
Quoted from tectonyc:For testing I was just sliding a postcard into the opto beam to trip it while the pf was up. There's a ball stranded there until I can fire the scoop to get it out, so it instantly resets if the playfield is down.
Oh ok weird. Sounds like all might work itself out once you get the vuk working properly. Might try messaging Scott directly. Im sure he would know.
1 week later
Ok you guys are scaring me now. Im still waiting for mine. If i get a mess of a game, can I send it back? I dont mind addressing a few minor issues but i dont want to deal with some of the stuff I’m seeing here.
How does that work? Will they take it back if its a mess?
This will be my first NIB game.
2 weeks later
#182 arrived yesterday safe and beautiful. Couple minor issues but nothing major. Plays great and looks beautiful. Small adjustment to right orbit roller to center the switch. No threads in the wood for the head box bolt. Oh and the backglass does need to be lifted to open the speaker grill. No big deal. Also the playfield glass rear receiver is a little low so you have to push glass down the get the glass to go in. All of these are small nit picky issues compared to other games I own. Great quality overall and plays and sounds great! Just wanted to post a positive so there is some balance. So far its the nicest machine with the least amount of trouble i have received to date. Definitely don't regret this machine. Soo much fun.
If anyone wants pics for comparison or anything let me know.
Thank you Scott. My daughter doesn't like pinball but she came out and started dancing when I turned this on. Lol
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:My #34 LE has a 'U' shaped playfield glass rear receiver that I use a stiff piece of plastic to lift when sliding the glass in. I think that this is an intentional placement in order to prevent the glass from rattling from the subwoofer. I have an upgraded subwoofer in my Godzilla (no sub enclosure though) that rattles the glass in the same rear receiver so I wrapped a piece of black felt around the glass to stop it.
I was going to leave it for that reason but never thought it might be intentional. Good point. Definitely makes sense with this machine. It thumps!!!
Only other comment i have is regarding the butter cab. Is it worth it is the “thousand” dollar question. To be honest I’m not sure. It is absolutely beautiful and i love the gloss and quality look. But $1,000.00 is a bit steep. Not sure if i’d do it again. Not saying no…but it would be more enticing at a little lower price. Are there better ways to spend $1,000.00?
Yes…I just wanted to go for it on this one because i love this game so much.
Quoted from Jakers:I just know that I had a very similar issue with my original run TNA out of the box. Spooky service and myself figured it was a bad display so spooky sent me a replacement. When installing the new display, I noticed a bridged solder joint on the original “bad” display. I was able to remove the small piece of solder that was bridging the pins and the display was fine after that.
[quoted image]
Was the bridged solder joint on the chip that presses in??
AJ is sending me a new one but if I can save him the trouble before it ships put i will.
Quoted from Jakers:It was almost 5 years ago at this point so I could be mistaken, but I'm 98% sure it was the digit pins that were bridged. I'll take a look at my spare display and check when I get home.
So I pulled it out and you were absolutely correct. Bridged solder joint. Removed excess solder and problem solved. Thank you. For others here is a pic of the bridged solder joint.
E5EA0390-ABAE-4D12-9730-425CB20EF267 (resized).jpegIn Spooky's defense, AJ was ready to send another board no questions asked so +1 for Spooky. Service matters and theirs is fantastic! Not excusing clear qc issues but these are very complicated and intricate machines. qc issues exits on all my machines. Spooky is definitely not the worst
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:You need to check the power connectors to your PD-LED boards. If these are flaky, it can cause the LEDs to do weird things and get stuck. Use crimp connectors with Trifurcon terminals and you will be all set.
Ok soi checked all the cables to the boards and there was one semi loose/unseated ribbon cable. But I can’t tell which one is the power cable. Does anyone have a pic or diagram of the specific power cable for the pd led boards?
Quoted from zermeno68:So.. ignorant question. Knowing this is a simple issue and known fix, why was that not performed by Spooky for CE editions?
I don’t have a problem doing it myself if/when I experience this problem… but would have been nice these “gotchas” where performed already.
I forgot to take a picture of the connector that was loose. But basically they did try to make sure it was secure. There was hot glue on the connector clearly intended to hold the connector together. However, the glue was actually preventing the connector from seating all the way. Removed the glue and it seated just fine. Not sure if you can picture that. They probably should take a little more time with the glue, but they are definitely trying to make sure the connectors stay put.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Definitely let me know which connector was loose and causing this problem. I have been trying to chase this down for a bit on random people's games.
--Scott
Ok no prob. Ill send you a pic as soon as i raise the playfield again. Does seem to have fixed the issue so far but wanna give it a little more time before say its “fixed”.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Definitely let me know which connector was loose and causing this problem. I have been trying to chase this down for a bit on random people's games.
--Scott
Ok so I left it on for over an hour played one game and let it transition into attract mode. No freezing at all. While I did put pressure on all the connectors to confirm they were seated, I’m pretty sure it was the loose connector causing the issue. I marked it in the photo below.
FC02138B-8EC6-45FE-ABFC-7E6A3FADB555 (resized).jpegQuoted from ccbiggsoo7:maybe get a new camera so the rest of us can benefit from your post.
I will post a better pic soon. The picture is a snap shot of a youtube video. Dont have time to raise the playfield at the moment.
Not sure if anyone is interested but I have had a hell of a time getting my right orbit to direct the ball correctly to the right flipper. Been working on it since the machine arrived. I have found a fairly simple solution after hours and hours and many failed attempts. I was able to get it working for a short time by slightly bending the right orbit rail near the end of the metal guide but this only lasted a few games. If anyone else is having this issue hit me up and i can explain how i fixed it on my machine at least.
Quoted from damadczar:On a slow rolling ball or a soft plunge, it should hit the top of the slings. That's why the ever popular right side nudge on a soft plunge became en vogue.
If the ball is traveling fast around the loop it should go to the right flipper.
This is how mine plays, no adjustments needed.
I probably should have been more precise in explaining. My right orbit would hit the sling on a all right orbit shots even if they were strong hits. Now a soft plunge or short hit bounces off the top of the sling and full orbits and deep short plunges feed the right flipper. This was the outcome I was looking for.
Quoted from maxpower:Ok, I'm a little confused because on my machine, the ball never hits the top of the right sling from the right orbit.
The ball appears to ricochet off a rivet on the playfield. Is there something amiss with my machine? AGAIN??
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are you sure its hitting the rivet and not the rubber?
Quoted from maxpower:You're right, it's the rubber, not the rivet. It's sticking out too far. You can see how chewed up it's gotten.
What do? I can ask for a replacement from Spooky, but I don't think it's supposed to stick out that far, is it? Can it be adjusted?
Max
[quoted image][quoted image]
This is exactly how mine came from the factory and I was eventually able to fix it. I have already written a “how to” fix it guide explaining how I was able to fix mine. I sent it to Scott to make sure i didn't do anything he disapproves of or feels may damage the game. If he gives me the ok I’ll send it to you.
Quoted from maxpower:Yeah, you're right. I'm done here.
Max
Don’t give up Max. Some people on here forget how nerve racking working on your first machine can be. Just keep trying and you will get it right. Ignore some of the rude comments. Just remember how fun pinball is when its right. Especially this pinball.
Has anyone else noticed that when the ball loader fails to load the ball into the shooter lane on the initial try, it will many times load two balls instead of one?
I mean load two balls individually by the way. Not two balls at the same time because ones on top of the other. Weird
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:It should not be doing that. Take a slow-mo video with your phone and see if it is hitting too hard and bouncing back in or not hard enough. You can adjust the coil settings in the service menu to adjust.
--Scott
Ok I’ll give that a try. Thanks
2 weeks later
Quoted from tectonyc:Progress! After replacing the P Roc and a switch board, the game no longer lights on fire! Now I just have a dead scoreboard, no lights or coils in the core, no knocker/shaker/beacon, no backboard lights, no second drop reset (but the down works fine?)...and I'm sure other fun gremlins to find!
[quoted image]
Reasonable efforts to correct problems is fine...but it sounds like you need to send this one back to Spooky. Just Sayin
1 week later
Deepest sympathy to anyone who has found themselves in the situation of regretting their purchase of TNA CE. Admittedly this game has required more work to straighten out then I originally realized or hoped for. However, I think I have it working fairly well at this point and it is so worth it once the game works as expected. AJ is fantastic but even he can only do so much and most people dont have 24/7 to work on their games. But try to remember this game is fun for the whole family with all the lights music and coop. Just wanted to put that out there. Keep working on it if at all possible...it really is an amazing game!
3 weeks later
Quoted from negz:Hah thanks herg, I had missed that too! I guess now I have a reason to learn to use the solder station.
Just to confirm, you mean solder the leads onto the new coil not repair the coil right? That coil should be replaced not repaired.
1 week later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:You could install one of these at the back:
https://www.pinballlife.com/cash-box-lock-bracket.html
Then secure the coin box with a cash box hair pin.
https://www.pinballlife.com/cash-box-hair-pin.html
EDIT:
You will also need to a cash box cover for this setup to work:
https://www.pinballlife.com/cash-box-cover.html
That might help hold it in place.
--Scott
Thanks Scott
Quoted from zebpin61:I installed cable staples (9/16"x 1 1/4") to "secure" the coin box in all my Spooky games (TNA 2.0, ACNC & RAM). While I have strong desire to keep my games in great/original condition, the cable staple was a simple solution.
Do you have a photo you can post of this solution?
Quoted from zebpin61:Here's 2 pictures of how I used the cable staple as requested. Simple but does the job from my standpoint. Forgot that I had also used same approach on my HW too.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you for the photos. That seems quick and easy plus it seems like it would allow a little lateral movement to align the coin mech with the coin box holes. Thanks again
1 week later
I’m noticing after heavy playing if you go i to jukebox mode, (which my daughter loves), the lighting sequence slows down to a crawl. Also the computer gets extremely hot. Only after playing or leaving the machine on for a while is this an issue. Anyone else notice this? Any solutions to cool the computer better?
Quoted from namyzzo:I haven't personally tried/installed = but heres one they show for the Aeeon / "UP-Board" models.
https://up-shop.org/active-cooler-fan-for-the-up-board-and-up-core-board.html[quoted image]
Thanks will definitely take a look at that.
2 weeks later
Quoted from namyzzo:I haven't personally tried/installed = but heres one they show for the Aeeon / "UP-Board" models.
https://up-shop.org/active-cooler-fan-for-the-up-board-and-up-core-board.html[quoted image]
So i finally received the cooler today and installed it and omg what a difference!! All components are cool to the touch now and no slowdowns. Great suggestion! Definitely worth the cost. Thanks again
Oh and the fan is completely silent so no added noise.
Quoted from MasterBlaster:Thank you for pioneering this idea and sharing! I didn’t realize that I could get domestically and the original link didn’t take me directly to the item, just to the UP site. So I ended up ordering directly from them…paid more in VAT and freight than the cost of the items. Ha! Oh well, still a pretty inexpensive way to ensure our beloved game runs like a sewing machine. Since these are coming from overseas I went ahead and ordered two, so I’ll have one as a backup or in case one doesn’t work. Forgive me, I’m not familiar with the original TNA design…did it use this same unit? I’m guessing no, as I would think that Sp00ky would have made a change if there were reliability issues due to heat buildup (or added a $10 cooling fan).
Im not sure about the OG models
Has anyone else noticed lots of errors in the error report? My game plays perfectly no probs or anything but the error report is logging tons of errors.
Its mostly drop target errors but i get no errors during drop target tests. Also drop target have no issues during gameplay.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Yep, this happens. The software is just logging whenever it encounters some type of unexpected switch event. It does not mean your game is broken, it means I made the software too sensitive. The game has all sorts of awesome logic in it to deal with unexpected things. I should probably make the error report just not show all this debug stuff. Please ignore unless you are having a problem. This honestly has saved me many hours of troubleshooting help though.
--Scott
As always thanks for the quick reply Scott. My blood pressure is back to normal. The good news is i found my missing screw driver when I lifted the playfield. Oops! 
Quoted from Jesder:Thanks for posting about this. I ordered the one from mouser that you linked.
How easy is it to remove the old heatsink and install the new one with the fan?
Also, where do you connect the small 2 pin fan connector to on the cpu board?
Very easy actually. Just use a screw driver to carefully pry off old one and then stick the new one on. Easy peasy!
1 week later
Quoted from Wheelzzz:UPDATE on CPU from Spooky. Long story short...TNA (OG) won't boot. Tried all the steps others were having with same symptoms. Last thing I have done...purchased a CPU from Spooky. Didn't fix the boot problem.
I'm out of ideas on what to do to get this thing going. Anyone?
I would call AJ and troubleshoot it with him if you haven't already. Also if you could post a detailed description of the problem. Symptoms, suspected causes, what you’ve tried so far, what you were doing when the prob started, etc…
3 weeks later
Quoted from Kolk1:Ok so that was a 10 minute install… so freaking easy compared to a newer stern. BUT due to not being very tall, they honestly aren’t that noticeable. But neither were the original graphics as well. Tried to do some with the lights on and off.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great!!! Mine are delayed in shipping. UPS bastards!
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:You can get powerballs at Pinball Life here: https://www.pinballlife.com/powerballnavi-ballrolling-stone.html
The TNA Meltdown Mirrors will be back in stock soon.
--Scott
Whats a meltdown mirror?
3 weeks later
Quoted from namyzzo:I'll take that burrito now - if the offer still stands
I'm calling the work on my manual - DONE. Been a long 7 months. Moving all the files to the archives and moving on. It needs a lot of the blanks filled in, not perfect by any means, purely made up and I would personally be cautious of any of the information - especially where electricity is involved.. LOL .
If you are bored and want to do some proof reading the link is below. I tried to contact another for a double check on it - but haven't heard back yet.
And Remember - this is not an official manual. Learned a lot doing it. Time to play it now.
I split it into 2 files so it prints correctly. If I borrowed information from anyone to make my personal manual or you answered any of my questions - thank you!. All pictures are taken of my personal machine and/or spare parts that I have purchased.
For the "curious" who want to know what programs were used to make it = PDFsam, Circuitmaker, Microsoft Publisher, Excel and ACDSEE.
**edit 7-14-2023 = please stand by = as usual, I am awake now - and found 1 wrong file got inserted.. ugh.!!.. I'll fix tonight..
OK, for REAL.. .. it's fixed now.. = https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bf9sT3yORi4cXG49m-TOCG9oDuqancgu?usp=sharing
Thank you for doing this. Awesome work!
Quoted from herg:Setting defaults has to be super difficult, since it depends on your power source. There should be less variation on TNA since that's going through a switching supply, but mine still feels a bit weaker while something like the HVAC is running. If you make it too low, some games will feel weak and sloppy.
Having other power hungry devices running in the same area can lower the power of the table mechs? I never realized it was that sensitive.
Quoted from guitarded:Someone posted a hack with a piece of Velcro tape that reportedly helps. It's in the last page or two (link to the original post).
Thanks for the quick reply. I though that was to assist with scoop rejects. Does it work for eject trajectory as well?
1 month later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:That is awesome!!! Glad this got you up and running.
--Scott
Would you mind posting more info or some pics on this? Mine works most of the time but sometimes has issues. Would love to make it more consistent if possible.
Thanks
1 week later
Does anyone know who has the best direct replacement translucent rubber set for TNA? Found one on Pinballlife but it doesn't come with purple flipper rubbers. It also has an option for Stern and Williams post rubbers. Not sure which one TNA has?
Thanks in advance
https://www.pinballlife.com/125-piece-translucent-silicone-rubber-ring-set.html
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:That is the exact rubber used from the factory. You can select purple flipper rubber from the dropdown. You will also need to add 1x mini flipper rubber to your order too.
If you do not want to buy the whole 125 piece generic kit, you can pick and choose off this list I put together back in the day.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gwjXq_-yFIkouIl6ymJw9wfq6O8rOhnZ/view
Got it thank you.
Quoted from Kolk1:I used glow in the dark ones from Titan. They sell kits in all colors. They have a user data base where you can select your game, and view color combos other people have submitted, and you can modify their kits piece by piece if you want. Also check super bands as well.
[quoted image]
I'll take a look...Thanks
2 weeks later
Does anyone have any thoughts on pros and cons regarding Titan rubber vs original? I just switched my over to Titan and it definitley feels a bit different. Not worse just different. Almost like I can control the ball a little better. Anyone else have the same experience?
Quoted from orlandu81:I like Super-Bands on the flippers, they don't wear nearly as fast as the others and I just like how they play for me. I think the flipper rubber is a personal thing, people have different likes and dislikes. It's about feel. I'm not sure you will get consistent answers on this one, I recommend trying the different types and settling on the ones that enable you to have the best control.
Does it come from the factory with superbands or is that an upgrade?
1 week later
Quoted from Deez:Anyone that has the hooked on pinball pop bumper cap have issues with the adhesive? Mine fell off the first day. Wondering if there's something better. [quoted image]
I removed mine for that reason. Could'nt find one I was comfortable with. Great mod but not built well enough for my taste.
I’m totally confused. Took glass off to clean. Didn’t raise table or make any adjustments. Went to put glass back on and now left side of lockdown bar is rubbing on glass and wont seat properly. Anyone had ever had this happen? I cant figure out what changed.
Quoted from johnnytruant:If it's anything like my TNA, the glass isn't properly seated in the rear molding. I usually have to very gently press on the center of the glass towards the back of the pin when putting it back on to get it under the edge of the molding. Think this is a common issue actually.
Thanks for the reply. That was actually the first thing i checked. Its seated in the back. Soo weird!
Quoted from crwjumper:Mine does this too. The cabinet isn’t perfectly square. If I lean on my pin to push it to one side (toward the left for mine) it squares the cabinet so I can seat the lockdown.
Omg you’re a genius. Thats exactly what it was. Thank you soo much. I couldn't figure it out for the life of me.
1 week later
Quoted from tedwasright:Maybe I am crazy but I feel like my machine started lagging. For instance, the rollover lights change quickly when I use the flippers. But when the ball is in the upper playfield they change but not quickly. They lag. I also notice, lately, that the drop targets aren't popping up fast enough to catch the balls. Am I just thinking I see this, or has anyone heard of this?
The next time this happens lightly touch the heatsink on computer. Mine was getting too hot and causing lagging issues. Solved with proprietary computer cooler available online. Mine was also causing slow light attraction sequences when in attract mode.
1 month later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:The end of ball music is the same on these versions. If you are talking about the bonus drop sound effects, I had to remaster these to clean up a bunch of distortion that was happening when powering the game with external amplifiers.
--Scott
Oh okay. Yes I think I am referring to those sounds. Still sounds great Scott. Think I just got used to the old one. Caught me off guard a little. Thanks for all the continued support.
1 week later
Quoted from orlandu81:Thank you both for your quick responses. I did inspect the switches and the drop target mechs and everything is very clean, no issues I can see. Everything is passing in test mode. So I removed the plastic and took a look at the ball guides and sure enough, the ball guide on the front left was a smidge higher than the others and appeared to be at least partially blocking the opto. I tapped it down ever so slightly and it is now even with the others and doesn't appear to be blocking the opto at all now. I think this was the issue...will leave the machine on all day and listen...
Just for my own knowledge, how did you go about making that adjustment? Do you have to losen anything under the playfield...or just it just push down?
Quoted from orlandu81:I just took a small hammer and lightly tapped the guide down from the top side of the playfield. it needed like 1/32 of an inch, maybe 1/16, to clear the path of the opto. It took 4 mins, of which 3 and half minutes was removing/replacing the nuts from the playfield plastic.
oh ok just wanted to make sure I dont do any damage if I end up needing to make a similar adjustment. Is the post still firmly in place after the adjustment?
1 week later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Did the lock up actually lock up the screen, or did it just restart while sitting in attract mode? Did the blue UP logo appear before the machine booted back up?
It was sitting in attract mode and the lights locked up for sure. Not sure about the screen or logo on boot.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:The lights will always stop when the PC resets. If it happens again, see if you can pay attention to the UP logo upon reset. If the UP logo appears, then the PC lost and regained power. If the up logo does not appear, then the software most likely caused the crash. This could also be the display disconnecting too.
--Scott
Ok thank you. Ill definitely report back if it happens again
3 weeks later
Quoted from EntityClay:Anyone seen this before? Occasionally when a ball is issued into the shooter lane (but before it launches) the LEDs for RAD, the left scoop, reactors 1, 7, 8, and the keypad all get "stuck" on one color (usually white, not always). They stay like this until something triggers the entire GI to change, such as starting the reactor or hitting the pop bumper. After that it behaves normally.
My theory is a connection is getting disrupted due to the vibration of ejecting a ball from the trough, but I am on the beta code so it could be software related? Nothing stood out to me last time I checked connectors, but I could be looking in the wrong place or missed something.
[quoted image]
Were you able to fix this? Mine occasionally does the same thing.
Quoted from EntityClay:Yes! I checked the serial cables Scott mentioned and they indeed felt loose. The hot glue added wasn't doing its job, so I redid that and things seem good so far.
do you have a pic of the loose cables or can you tell me which cables were loose?
Quoted from EntityClay:Issue popped up on my TNA CE again. I'm thinking the next step for me is to remove the pins from the molex connector and see which ones don't have a snug fit. I might redo the crimping if needed
Getting access to this particular connector is a pain since you have to remove most of the other cables from the board, all of which are hot glued Given I'm not routing my game, I might skip reapplying glue to make accessing the boards easier in the future.
There's always something new to learn in the hobby!
Okay just based on that I think were talking about the same board/connector. Not sure if you noticed, but the left sling coil arm runs dangerously closed to the ribbon cables and edge of the core light board. in my case it was actually touching and recently got caught up on the coil locking it in the extended position. I was able to fudge the board and coil mech apart slightly and there is now clearance. unknown if this will fix the issue or if it was causing the issue, but thought I'd mention it.
1 month later
Quoted from kevster:I've been waiting to write this post and am very excited to be able to do it now:
I have officially joined the ranks of TNA owners! Just bought a first run machine from a guy here in Boise. A buddy of mine is bringing his escalara tomorrow to help me move it into the basement. Can't wait to get it setup and head into the future!
Welcome to the pinnacle of pinball!
Quoted from kevster:Thank you, Scott. I'll take a look at those optos. Nothing touching the tilt bob, and it looks like the previous owner did not do the ear plug mod. I'll give that a go.
Thanks for the help.
What is the ear plug mod?
Was playing a 3 player coop game this weekend and had a full lockup and restart during the first player first ball. All LEDs locked up red and game restarted during gameplay. Worked fine after restart. Not sure where to start on this one. Any suggestions?
1 week later
Why do I love this game? Ive never beaten it but this morning I got to reactor 6 on ball one and had 2 extra balls. I then proceeded to drain every ball and didn't even get to 7. Maybe I just get too excited. I swear it feels like the game knows your doing good and decides to fight back.
1 month later
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