Not too many come up for sale over here. When Spooky does the re-release TNA will def be my first NIB!

Hey Scott, @TheNoTrashCougar, Are there any differences between the exported versions of TNA and the North American versions??

Is an export-version of TNA able to be "jumpered" to run on 120v? I live in Europe and I plan on buying a TNA in the next run, but I'll probably move back to CONUS in the next 5 years, so not sure if I should buy one over here or in the US...Thanks!!

Ordered!!!!!!!!!!!

Will you handle the Int'l shipping yourself, or do you work with a broker? Todd Tuckey mentioned IQ Global before but it looks like they don't do door-to-door Int'l shipping anymore.

Of course the credit card flagged the purchase....was anticipating that to happen. Took 15 seconds to fix....and got order #66 for my trouble (1702 hrs). Still happy!

Selling my #BlackHole and #Creature to fund it. I'm happy with that trade.

I wonder how many are left??

Count me as one of the die-hards that's been waiting to buy a TNA for myself for years! I REALLY appreciate you guys doing the re-run!!

Thank you!

0801 his time yesterday. (Pacific Time Zone).

I'm #66 and I was 1002 CST

.

Well, my buddy is order #1 so I'll let you know when he hears about shipping and payment.

Looks like you are machine #161 in line based on the difference between our order numbers. Squirrel sent an email to me a day after I placed the order with my machine position.

Can't wait for my quote to Germany!

My buddy is #1 (I'm #66) and we just got our payment invoices today. Both are heading overseas together hopefully by next week per Morgan.

Ouch!

I got my shipping estimate yesterday to Germany (for me and a buddy's machine) and it seems as if it'll be around $750 for each of us. With no taxes I made out cheaper than some folks within the US. Shipping costs to the west coast seem to be especially pricey!

That sucks! Sorry to hear that. Did the forklift forks spear the box?

#1 & #66 are finally headed to Germany. I am just a bit worried about damage...but I paid $60 extra for insurance so I should be okay either way.

Hey I have a question for you guys who've already gotten your machines. My buddy and I will be picking our machines up at our nearby customs office in hopefully about 2 1/2 weeks. Since we both have minivans we are planning to remove the box and take the pins off the pallets to fit into our vehicles. The customs office has told up that it's no problem to do this at their warehouse....we just have to remove the pallets and packing materials. But I'm wondering how much packing we have to content with? I'm very experienced with loading pins in/out of my van and normally leave them strapped to my appliance dolly as I do it. Ive never had a NIB pin before...Is there anything special to be aware of?

...

Finally got my total shipping costs for sending my TNA to Germany. Game is being trucked from Spooky to Halifax, NS, then onto a container ship to Hamburg, Germany, then delivery down to our nearby customs office...$945. This also includes $60 for transport insurance.

This is pretty reasonable IMO. I did save some $$ because two of us are shipping our machines together.

That looks good. Much better than some others that I've seen here lately. I've got #1 & #66 heading this way and I'm worried we're going to get washed out glasses...

There's a manual of sorts...but no wiring diagram yet AFAIK. I might be willing to help draw one...if I EVER get my machine!

Sorry for posting in multiple forums...

CE #1 here...just arrived today...BROKE!

-Every coil controlled by the PD-16 board running to connector "A5-xxx" are dead. Going into the coil test, and during game play. Backbox GI, Beacon, Shaker Motor, upper flipper, etc.
(Checked all fuses and reseated connectors on the PD-16 boards in the backbox)

- All LED score displays are dead. 5v is present at the display board. Tried reseating the USB cable. Tried swapping to a different USB port. Totally dead.

Anyone have any ideas? Just a wee bit frustrated after waiting for months...

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Thanks! I swapped the boards and the problem moved. Looks like a bad P-3 board. I've emailed Spooky

I'm printing these as you make them and have bound myself together an actual paper manual. Thanks for your effort and kindness to offer it to the rest of us!

A follow-up so far on CE#1's malfunctions and Spooky's customer service. Issue #1: Multiple coils stopped working after 2-3 games. Coils are controlled by one of the two PD-16 boards in the backbox, and all coils being operated by one of these boards are inoperative. Upon close inspection of the PD-16 board, after boot-up the D14 Watchdog LED remains lit (which is abnormal). Nearby, there I found a blown SMD IC on the board at position U2. I'm trying to identify what it is (printed code: QA AM JW). Spooky has agreed to ship a replacement PD-16 board. If I can identify the type of SMD component it is, I may attempt to fix the board. Looks like possibly it's a Linear Voltage Regulator in a SOT-23-5 package.
Issue #2: The score displays are all inoperative. The board is getting 5v (polarity was correct when the game arrived) and the USB connections from the Pi to the Arduino Nano are secure. Spooky is shipping a replacement score display.
Issue #3: The backglass is washed out. Spooky sending a replacement.
Issue #4: The metal tab in the shooter lane is missing: Spooky is sending the part.

Overall, AJ was very helpful yesterday, quick to reply to my messages, and promised a quick shipment of the parts. My buddy Boosterfive also got his CE#66, so I have been able to at least play his game a bit, as well as using for visually comparative troubleshooting.

Photos of the blown (and unblown) SMD component if anyone would be able to help ID it.

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It's hard to know what the root cause of the problems are. Voltages check out fine (5.3v, 12.4v, & 48-ish volts). I verified polarity of the wire harnesses and everything looks fine. My buddy's #66 was shipped here along with mine (2 separate pallets) and had no problems or damage (other than a faded backglass). Another thing I noticed is that the tilt bob brackets were mounted completely misaligned (no biggie). Just took a few minutes to re-mount it properly. Who inspected your machine #2?

On my machine the lower bracket is too low/upper bracket too high to allow the tilt bob to be attached.

On my buddy's machine the lower bracket was mounted too far aft. Because of where they put the screw, no amount of adjustment would allow the tilt bob to sit in the middle of the lower ring. Simple fix in both cases. Just drill a new hole and remount the lower ring.

That is awesome! Update us on the mechanical condition. Glad to see no holes in the cardboard anyway!

I was having the opposite problem with the left orbit. The ball would glance off the rubber ring at the bottom of the metal orbit guide. After loosening the nut and twice moving it inward as far as it would go, I found it was still hitting the rubber. A closer look revealed that the metal guide was actually bent outwards (not perpendicular to the pf). I ended having to bend the rail so it was 90 degrees to the pf and now all is working perfectly.

Are you having issues with the PD-16 coil driver board? It sounds like we are having similar problems. My machine (s/n #1) worked for about 5 games, then the PD-16 board on the bottom failed. It controls the backbox lighting so immediately we saw that go out and knew something was up. Upon closer inspection I found a burned up SMD component at position U2 (linear voltage regulator?). Also, the D14 LED remains lit after bootup which is part of the voltage watchdog circuit. If this lamp stays on it disables the entire board (according to the Multimorphic documentation). That watchdog is looking at voltages on the board at bootup and should go out after a few seconds.

If your voltages are all correct on the machine (5v, 12v, and 48v at the board), you can turn ON jumper #6 on the board and disable the watchdog routine and it should allow the board to boot and operate normally. This is in the documentation that Multimorphic has on their website for the PD-16 board. This didnt make my board work, but it might work for you.

When I removed the lower PD-16 from my machine, put it on the bench and began testing components I also found that one of the N-Channel MOSFETs appeared to be blown. This MOSFET drives pin #5 on the left side big commector (Drop Target #2 Raise Coil).

I swapped the good board on my machine into the other position and everything operated normally, which leads me to suspect a faulty board and not a wiring or voltage problem. Replacements have arrived today so lets see what happens...

Maybe all of this helps you out. Sorry you are also having issues. It must be very frustrating.
I've attached a photo of the bad board and good board on my machine for comparison.

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Holy crap!

Did Spooky send you a replacement board? Or did this happen to the replacement board?

How are your voltages? Mine were set a bit on the high side at the factory.

Happy to report that CE #1 is finally fully operational thanks to the great customer service from AJ at Spooky!
The PD-16 board fixed the coil issues, the new score display works perfectly, and the replacement backglass looks beautiful.
After some adjustments and playfield waxing the game plays great :

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I found some very small metal flakes on the pf bottom when making some adjustments so I decided to clean and wax it all. I'm not sure where they came from. Could have been from the manufacture of the machines.

Also my first NIB but mine didn't appear to be waxed.

AFAIK that gates are always raised except if you have started a reactor. Then depending on which orbit lane is lit, the opposite gate should be down to keep the ball trapped at the top so it can fall into the CORE.

@Ipeters82 any idea what would cause a total display failure? Spooky already sent me a replacement, but Id like to try and fix the one that came with my machine. I checked for bridged solder points and all seems well. Tried swapping the display driver ICs around. No joy. Arduino Nano has a solid red light. Maybe I need to re-flash it?

Has anyone else noticed that the end-of-stroke switches for the flippers are wired to nothing? Was this an oversight by Spooky? Or does the Multimorphic flipper system not depend on EOS switches? And if so, why did Spooky spend the $$ to install them?

During a recent video I made for my YT channel I mention it @ 16:10

TNA EOS (resized).png

Makes sense. Thanks! I suppose that's how coil power can be adjusted via the menus?

Sorry to hear. What # CE did you have and what did you end up selling it for?

Any idea what you'll be looking for to replace it? Scooby?

I just installed it about 3 weeks ago and mine is dead silent. It did make a bit of a squeal but after I plugged in the additional hinge light panels the noise disappeared. I also have the brightness turned all the way down to prolong the life, but it is still plenty bright.

You need to email Hooked on Pinball and get on the list. He is making more.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rerun-tna-side-rail-light-kit-need-20-interested-

I have CE #001. A few issues and a faded BG in the beginning. Spooky took care of everything. Machine is 100% now!

You need to slightly adjust the metal rail at the bottom of the orbit. It is either adjusted too far toward the center, or its not straight. I found that mine was not perpendicular to the playfield and once I straightened it then the ball will land on the left flipper every time.

Congrats on the new machine!

I used a large adjustable wrench and closed it down on the ball guide where the attachment fitting is and bent it to 90⁰. A had also tried bending it by hand and it didn't work. I was worried the riveted attachment fitting would break when I bent it, but I was lucky.

INCREDIBLE! I have to admit...when I saw you plunge into the cabinet with the router I actually cringed a bit...but the finished result is amazing. Are you running it off of an Arduino? How do you trigger each color mode?

Bravo!!

Exactly.

Congrats Andi! Nice to see another TNA CE here in Germany not too far away...for a while it was only me and a buddy in the same village! I hope you had no trouble with the freight forwarder or Zollamt. Our machines came via Halifax, NS -Hamburg...and one had a nice hole through the cardboard...but thankfully no damage.

What serial # is your machine?

After playing 400 games on CE#1, I want to say I'm still absolutely blown away by this game. I remain a relatively average player...but I think TNA has improved my gameplay more than any other machine I own. From drop catches, to live catches, to nudges, to dead bounces....TNA has single-handedly helped me play so much better! As you can see in my stats...I still have a LONG way to go!

Thanks again to Scott for designing such an incredible machine which is the centerpiece of my modest collection!

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Yeah, my rubber above the pop looks the same. I tweaked my rail a bit inward to keep it from digging into the rubber ring. If you find the sizes I'd appreciate it!

Hopefully Scott will chime in, but I would start by checking/reseating all of the serial bus connectors that go from the P3-ROC (in the backbox) to the PD-LED boards under the playfield. They have small white connectors with a few pins.

I like to turn up the sound higher. That seemed to fix the slight flipper buzz!

For all you discerning TNA owners...I have 6 ORIGINAL FS-2 Department of Defense FALLOUT SHELTER signs up for grabs. They are 14" x 10" in size. These were made in 1962 for installation onto public buildings in America, and indicated the location of shelters to be utilized in case of nuclear war with the Soviet Union. These are galvanized metal signs, were designed to be mounted indoors, and were painted with black matte paint and reflective yellow. One of them (#6) has tape on the backside which it was previously mounted with. One of them (#4) has a bit of discoloration, but it looks cool anyway.

They are NOT cheap, Chinese crap reproductions found on Amazon, or at Hobby Lobby. These are the real deal that you likely saw at your school, bank, or public building.

$75 each, shipping via USPS within the USA included. They won't fit into a USPS Priority Box, but I'll find a solution this coming week. I can also ship them within the EU (75 euros, shipping included).

Send me a DM if you're interested in a cool piece of history to hang up next to your TNA. First-come, first served, and specify which one you'd like.
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Edit: Sign #1 is sold.

Yep, I had the same. The ball guides were a bit too high and fooled the optos. Easy fix

CE #001 has some issues...and I'll ask you guys first about your flipper mechs. I raised the PF to t/s an LED issue and I found tons of brass shavings all over the place. It looks like the coil stops Spooky used on the CEs used a brass spacer or washer in the design and they have all been destroyed on my machine after 450 games. Never seen such a thing on any other game I've owned. Gonna try to swap them out for some WPC flipper parts from my stash....but this is a freaking mess. Metal particles are all over the bottom of my machine and littered around the playfield top & bottom! Not sure if it's what's caused my LEDs to suddenly freak out...but that's another story.

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Are those the last of the CEs?

I think I remember reading that the LED strips used in the CE machines are brighter than those used in the original run. Maybe also ask Spooky for some of the LEDs that they use now. If they can't supply them you can easily source higher density LED strips online and replace them yourself.

At least on my CE machine, I don't recall a setting to dim the backbox LEDs. There is a setting to have them turn OFF during a game, but it doesn't sound like that's the problem your facing.