Got my TNA from Spooky a few days ago. Always liked it at shows, and finally had the resources to obtain one. Worked fine straight out of the box. Number 526.
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Quoted from HookedonPinonics:Welcome to the club Dennis! I didn't know you had one on order. Enjoy
Somewhat spontaneous due to getting ready to change jobs, freed up some options. Was directed here for the washer discussion, wrote to Spooky but they indicated the recent games don't have the issue. I'd say I'd catch up and read the club but 97 pages is a bit much even for me!
Quoted from FatPanda:If you've got the washer fix and you're updated on the latest code (official version is 1.3.0 but there's a beta code on Scott's beta page), then you should be good to go.
If you are feeling particularly motivated, many (including myself) have swapped out the power supply fan for a quieter one. Plus if you don't have one, you really, really, really need to get a shaker. It has the best shaker integration in any pinball game I've played.
Some people have swapped out LCD panels for something that isn't as "washed out" as the stock one, but if you play with the settings on the stock monitor, you should find something that works.
Also if you're having trouble with scoop rejects, bending the scoop down slightly should help a bit, but the scoop is tough to hit from the right flipper.
Thanks for all the information. I do not have the washer fix installed (I was informed my playfield is a late run where they changed what the problem was), but I suppose I can add them on if folks think that is wise. KT told me she's going to mail the washers for the high-traffic areas tomorrow (I assume I can just refer to this thread to know which posts are the problem children).
I did notice the fan power supply was, well, noticeable. Is that just installing a different model fan I take it? I've done that for computers before when the fans start to fail on power supplies. I don't notice it so much when a game is going, but definitely do when it is sitting idle.
I do not have a shaker. I'll consider it (I'm not normally super excited about shaker motors, nice but optional is my typical view). I am interested in what you said about the monitor as I did find it very washed out (I really only had location Sterns to compare it to, but I was very surprised at how faint it looked). I'll mess with the settings and see what I can get going with that.
I'll experiment more with the scoops. I think I just brick the shot mostly (often from the left). I'm still adjusting the power settings on the coils to try and find something comfortable without seeming excessive.
Thanks for all the suggestions, they are very helpful!
Noticed a discoloration around my left scoop this evening that was not there originally. I can't feel anything when I touch it (smooth as the rest of the scoop parameter). Bubble under the clear coat? Wasn't sure if I should do anything about it or if it's just cosmetic. Photo included.
20190302_220621 (resized).jpgQuoted from iloveplywood:Hmm, I have pretty much the exact same discoloration in the same spot. I received mine about two weeks ago.
Same, game arrived from Spooky in late February.
Quoted from Fytr:The clear has lifted off the paint there due to a ball impact. It will eventually chip off.
My TNA scoop has some wear directly on top edges but it’s more gradual/localized.
I’d recommend covering the area around the hole with some mylar to protect it and to seal the chip in (though you’ll never be able to remove the mylar without taking the chip off too).
Maybe talk to Spooky first and see what they suggest.
Thanks for the feedback.
Spooky recommended a Cliffy protector for that scoop once it is released as best solution (I've reached out to Cliffy to see if there is an ETA on that; I checked his site before the game arrived but saw there weren't any out yet, as that's my typical Day 1 approach). I actually have clear coat from another project, and was curious if I should remove the chip and patch it or not, and whether that tends to stay isolated or spread (no paint around the scoop so I'm not concerned with that specifically [scoops take wear, it's life], just whether I should be concerned with it spreading to the clear over the painted portions nearby). Spooky just recommended watching it for now before doing a touch-up intervention.
I may mylar, depending on the ETA from Cliffy. I think if I wax again before applying it removes pretty easy. Been a while since I looked into it.
EDIT: Heard back from Cliffy, he's still engineering the full solution so it isn't ready yet but he's working on it. He echos what @fytr and @fatpanda advise, put some mylar around the scoop (if damage exists just mylar over it).
Quoted from EightBitWhit:SO glad to hear this @dennisk - Did Cliffy give you any kind of an idea on ETA or was it just a blanket "I'm working on it" type response?
No rough time estimate provided. He told me he's having issues with both protecting the right side of the scoop and how to mount it. The big challenge is a protector edge on the right could hang the ball since it enters from the right side when it drops out of that top playfield section (he says his Tron protector had that problem), and that's what he is working on right now.
I got an LED bulb for the topper at TPF. The cover of the topper, I'm not familiar with the screw heads. Is it some sort of security bit?
EDIT: More research suggests a security Torx bit. I actually don't own any such bits so I've ordered a set.
Quoted from pin2d:Am I the only one that says “thank you” every time I start a game and she says “welcome to the future”?
I've never done that, but sometimes when I hear "shoot left scoop to start reactor" I yell "don't tell me what to do!"
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