(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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  • 11,941 posts
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  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by falcon950
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (6 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (6 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (6 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (6 years ago)

Post #1626 Speaker amp settings Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)


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#7202 3 years ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

Yes - I have it just at 3 and 6 reactors, no replay/EB score related.

Also just thought I'd say Hi from over the pond.

I bought TNA from another UK pinball owner in March of this year - my first pin, and it's been brilliant.
I also do not get tired of it, and play most days - the audit says I've played just over 2000 games since getting it.

This thread is also really useful, and it's great that Scott both responds to posts and continues to improve/develop the game.

As a first time pinball owner (used to play at college 30 years ago), I've enjoyed both playing and the maintenance - cleaning, replaced all the rubbers with Titan glow, added an led strip to the rear of the backbox and under the cabinet so it glows purple, and had a couple of wires come adrift from the flippers, so have brushed up on my soldering too.

Currently considering the illuminated drop targets mod, and trying to decide on the best strategy for potentially getting a really high score.

I have only one comment really regarding what is displayed on the screen, and that is that I find I do not have a lot of time to look at the screen during gameplay as there's too much going on, so if it's not already maxed, I find it hard to keep an eye on the reactor value. About the only time when there is a chance to get a glance at the screen is when you lock a ball. There's then a second or so to glance up at it before launching the next ball (beating the auto plunger). Unfortunately, at that moment, the screen no longer displays the reactor value, as it is going through the "ball locked" display sequence. It would be good if the reactor value was still visible at this point. Just a suggestion!

Anyway, cheers for such a great game, and mine is going nowhere - especially as I have since bought a second pin (BK3LE) in the house, and have permission from my wife to add 2 or 3 more to a cabin we are putting together in the garden!

7 months later
#7825 2 years ago

I have the same issue as psychosoda with Opto 1 triggering intermittently.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Change the IDC connectors on the opto harness to crimped connectors and you will be good.
--Scott

As TNA is my first pin, and I've not changed IDC connectors before, can anyone point me to any further information, such as which crimped connectors (size, manufacturer etc..) and which crimping tool (assuming I need one)? Also any relevant instructions/advice please?

I'm in the UK if it makes any difference.

Many thanks for any information.

#7831 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Yeah, just follow the wires back from the optos to a little black board called the opto power board. The 2 pin (.156 pitch) connector attaching the opto harness to the board is most likely flaky. If you replace these connectors with Trifurcon Crimp and Stuff connectors, it will be 100% reliable.
Again, here are the Trifurcon terminals:
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html
And here are all the different sized connectors:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=Crimp%20%26%20Stuff
Crimp Tool:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ratcheting-crimp-tool.html
I really recommend that once you get comfortable with crimping these terminals on, that you do it for all of the optos in the game. It will help greatly. Good news is that Spooky is going to use these crimp style connectors going forward, so that is great news. These IDC connectors suck.
--Scott

Just a quick update - I've ordered a whole bunch of the terminals and connectors along with a reasonable crimp tool. As shipping and import taxes can be a bit of a lottery, being in the UK, the following are links for these - the 0.156 (inch) pitch equivalent in the UK is 3.96mm.

Terminals: Molex KK 396 Trifurcon female crimp terminal.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-contacts/6794723/

2 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 2 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795066/

4 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 4 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795072/

Reasonable quality crimp tool - AWG 18 - AWG 26 1.6mm - 2.5mm £40
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-Universal-Crimping-Japan-ENGINEER/dp/B002L6HJ8W/ref=psdc_1938873031_t3_B07F2W9XSM

Similar quality crimp too with changeable dies covering 0.7mm-3.1mm £112
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F2W9XSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The genuine Molex crimp tool is £345 including taxes!
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/6634246/

Once I've practised crimping and sorted the intermittent Opto on the 1st drop target, I'm going to replace all the other opto IDC connectors with crimped ones as recommended.

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