(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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  • 11,941 posts
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  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by falcon950
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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (6 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (6 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (6 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (6 years ago)

Post #1626 Speaker amp settings Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7531 3 years ago

The future is now... Just picked up TNA. Wasn't planning on it a week ago but things worked out well. Thanks to the pinsider for the sale. I have just finished up an 11+yr Twilight Zone rebuild. Guess this was my reward. Lineup is all set. Needed to move out a Pinball to make room. (time for it to move on... chimes and all) I'll see how long TNA sticks around as it is sitting in a spot where I'm hoping to put a Medieval Madness at some point.

I have one sound issue to fix but will be looking into it more over the weekend. (may be the "clipping" I have read up on?) Fixed a broken coil wire and adjusted one switch. Other than the sound, so far so good.

Destroying reactors has been a blast so far. Looking forward to defeating more.

game room (resized).jpggame room (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7546 3 years ago

Not that I need them but PBL doesn't (currently?) have the mirror blades. They do have stuff I want for mine though.
Like this: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0471-00
and really don't need this but looks cool ... https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0166-00

Ghost hinges... did TNA come with these originally? https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=01-9011-R_01-9011-L_SS_ghost

I couldn't find the (turnkey) lit drop targets kit... hmmm...

#7548 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

So I had some chronic issues with the audio signal shorting out due to heavy bass or most often the shaker going off on my game. It's an issue I've fought on and off for years.
I finally found a solution, the issue is caused by the use of the small headphone jack on the amplifier at the bottom of the cabinet. Headphone jacks were not made to withstand heavy vibrations like in this game and either the jack socket will become loose (cracked solder) insider the amp, or the cable will change angles as the amp vibrates and short out the connection inside the socket.
Fortunately, there is an inexpensive and seemingly permanent solution.
[quoted image]
Use a "3.5mm Female to 2RCA 3.5 mm Stereo Jack to 2 RCA Male Audio Cable" so the audio input connection from the monitor in the backbox connects to the amp using the RCA plugs, instead of the headphone plug. This is something they should adopt at at factory, as it is a much more robust method of connecting to the amp given all the vibration going on at the bottom of the cabinet.
Link: amazon.com link »

Instead of having an additional connection (that may be prone to poor connections) just replace the entire cable. There are RCA to 3.5mm mini plug. The current cable is 10 feet. I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YDUZ22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00 which is 12 feet but seemed to have tight connections which I felt were key. It does work well, obviously long but better than short. (8' may be most ideal but I prioritized a tight connection) I turned my amp around to make the plugs more accessible and get the connection away from the shaker. I also did this as I think the mini plug had solder joint issues too.

#7552 3 years ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

I've got my game in the workroom now, installing a few mods and in working under the playfield, I came across this - and truth be told, it bothers me.
I am the only owner of my game (purchased NIB direct from Spooky) and this is the first time I've really had to dig under the machine much (I'm installing the upgrade shoot again timer display, amongst other things) so this caught me a bit by surprise....
Take a look at the red-circled PROC board in the first picture - that's what I'm focusing on...
[quoted image]
Now - the close up shot from the side... look at the bend and pressure that board is under.
[quoted image]
Can anyone else please look under your playfield and confirm to me whether yours is the same way?
This is how my board was mounted from the factory, but I can't believe that's not going to be a problem long-term. I'd appreciate anyone else weighing in as to what their machine looks like.
Thanks,
Whitney

Mine is similar. (3rd owner I think). Noticed when resoldering a flipper wire

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#7554 3 years ago
Quoted from liftmagnet:

I would take the screws out to see if the board in actuality being compressed. It's not super common to see, but there are several ways for a pcb to get warped in the manufacture process. As long as pcb has a "natural" warp to it I wouldn't be too concerned.

Didn't look close previously but it is the screw that holds down the black wood rail. That isn't flush with the bottom of the play field. Causing the circuit board to not sit flush

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#7556 3 years ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Didn't look close previously but it is the screw that holds down the black wood rail. That isn't flush with the bottom of the play field. Causing the circuit board to not sit flush[quoted image]

Pulled the screw grabbed a drill bit to counter sink better. Problem fixed. Thanks for creating work for me. Yours should fix as easily. Don't just tighten the screw as the PF is harder wood than the black rail and may strip the screw.

#7565 3 years ago

TheNoTrashCougar I have a code enhancement idea. Put in high score places for 2/3/4 player co-op modes (and one for overall co-op). Instead of high score holder for just co-op (regardless of number of players.) That would give competition for those that may play 2/3 player co-op to stand a chance to make a high score.

Thanks for considering.

1 week later
#7587 3 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

My glass also rattled a-lot.
This is what I did and it doesn’t rattle at all now.
I took some medium size (3/16” wide) zip-ties and cut it into 2” long pieces. Then I stuck them under the plastic channel that the glass fits into. I carefully pried up the bottom of the plastic channel with a screw driver and started the zip-tie into the gap. Slowly pushing it all the way in length wise. I did this on both sides in three places.
You can’t tell or see where I did this, I used black colored zip-ties.
I also put some foam tape under the lock bar.
The zip-tie made the gap the glass sits in much narrower. You can tell when you slide in the glass that it is tighter.

I did the ziptie hack and worked like a charm on mine. Probably 4 chunks down each side. I didn't do anything with lockdown bar as that seemed good.
edit: I have a shaker and sub but likely doesn't matter which is causing the rattle. You can hold down the glass while it is rattling to see if that will solve it.

2 weeks later
#7624 3 years ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

TheNoTrashCougar I have a code enhancement idea. Put in high score places for 2/3/4 player co-op modes (and one for overall co-op). Instead of high score holder for just co-op (regardless of number of players.) That would give competition for those that may play 2/3 player co-op to stand a chance to make a high score.
Thanks for considering.

TheNoTrashCougar
I thought of another code enhancement. (for all I know there is already something there for this... my skillshots need work.) I know you are looking for more things to add to the reboot/2.0.

There are two skill shots in the game currently.
1) White letter in C-O-R-E when flipper buttons don't move the light (I'll call this Super Skillshot; not sure if this is called something specific already)
2) Yellow letter in C-O-R-E when you use flipper buttons to move the light to line up with ball (I'll call this Skillshot; ditto)

If you make these on consecutive balls it would create Super Skillshot Combo or a Skillshot Combo.
Could be done a couple of ways:
- Scores a bonus for consecutive Super Skillshots (2x for two in a row; 3x for 3 in a row; 4x; etc) Maybe have the number of times you complete it consecutively be the multiplier of the bonus. If you miss one it resets to zero.
- Scores a (smaller) bonus for consecutive Skillshots.
- Case would need to be addressed if you have a mix of Skillshot(s) and Super Skillshot(s)

Would have a call-out for 2x (Super) Skillshot Combo ... Then one for 3x (Super) Skillshot Combo ... 4x ...
If you get 3 in a row it should be called 3x (Super) Skillshot Turkey (bowling reference)... or not.

Not sure what an appropriate bonus should be to maintain balance in the game but you probably have a better idea. If you get 3 in a row maybe an extra ball?

I thought it would be a neat way to reward skillshots hit multiple times in a row. Which is probably really difficult. If the Skillshot (where you move the light) is too easy for players just do this for the Super Skillshot. (would also take the mixed cases out of the picture)

Just another idea. Still loving the game and the work you put into this!

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