That's my plan.

I'll have TNA - Metallica - Bank-a-Ball - Woz - Safe Cracker along the wall probably in that order.

Does TNA have a radio option in attract mode like Metallica where it will play the 9 songs?

I bought 2 copies from PBL the day it was released. My wife's old Walkman is floating around somewhere, this is gonna be interesting. haha

Maybe that's what happens after destroying the 9th reactor?

It's not a JVC. It doesn't vibrate the concrete. But I CAN hear the hardcore beat! Bass Boost is ON.

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Shoot, I was hoping to do this too. WoZ was pretty easy and it made it way easier to get up the stairs.

I received my game on Thursday and I'm having this exact same problem. Took a half an hour to get the lockdown bar to latch properly while trying various positions of the 2 screws. None of them would work.

I have it at a setting that is extremely tight right now (can't be good for the mechanism). Not sure why it's a problem. Should something be holding the slides upwards? They just hang too low?

Tonight my #1 drop target wouldn't stay up and it was compensating by giving out multiball by only locking 1 ball.

Ran the drop target test and it was logging a drop target up error each cycle.

Looked at drop mech and found that the E-clip, washer and 2 springs were missing. Found them inside bottom of cabinet.

When I put the E-clip back on it seemed much looser than the other 2. Seems like a bad/bent E-clip.

Let me know what you find. Mine is totally goobered up.

The sensitivity of my pop bumper switch seem to drop a lot yesterday. Quick look under the pf with switch test and it seem like it's making contact but doesn't register the switch until I press harder on the skirt. Am I missing something here? Didn't want to mess with adjustment in case it's something else.

Trying to install my lighted speaker kit. One of the delicate tabs on the 3D printed speaker mount didn't survive shipping.

So, while I try to glue that, I was working on the other side. First thing I notice is that the tiny notch in the 3D printed speaker mounts is no where near large enough to route the 4 wires thru and keep everything flush. Do I need to dremel this out?

This doesn't look like what I have. My slot is perpendicular to circular mount and too small for the 4 wires. Also, no screws were included, but I'm assuming I just use the original ones.

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Dremel tool it was. Enlarged the tiny slots so the 4 wires could fit thru.

The bolt pattern on the new 3D printed mounts measured a couple mm larger than the originals which was odd.

Looks good but you can see the LED strips at the bottom from my viewing angle.

The instructions say you can reuse the mesh if you want, just put it between the new 3D printed mounts and the speakers. But the tweeter on the speaker protrudes past the mounting flange, so that would stretch the mesh.

The mesh could be cut to go under the new laser cut metal grills, but not sure how good that would look.

What's the best tool/method to adjust the sensitivity of the standups, they are way to hard to activate. I tried my leaf switch tool on some and needle nose on others, but neither worked too well. Or different foam???

Also, thanks goes to the post above mentioning the dual leafs on the left flipper button. Mine was factory adjusted so they both activated at exactly the same time. Fixed that and can now cradle lower left and flip upper at same time.

There are 2 versions of the 3D printed speaker mounts. 1 that comes with the game and a new one for the lighted speakers that has a bunch of delicate extrusions coming off of it to help hold the LED light strip in place.

This did the trick. Thanks!

How about how to lighten up the amount of ball force to register all the standups?

My leaf switch adjustment tool's gap is only wide enough for one leaf. It wasn't working real well for me on these switches for some reason.

That could definitely help, this foam is super resilient.

Ordered also.

Finally spent a substantial amount of time to figure out why my lockdown bar is so insanely tight!! Both adjustment screws have been all the way up since day one but there's times when I almost can't get the game open or buttoned back up. Started to worry me.

I compared the lockdown mechanism mounting position to other games and measured lockdown bar with calipers to compare to other lockdown bars. Everything seemed to check out.

It was pretty apparent that the lock slide was hitting too low on the chamfered hooks to engage.

When the pf is in the down position the pf hangers hit the lockdown bar's two 90deg bent tabs and hold the lockdown bar way too high to engage. I ground off between 1/16" and 1/8" on these tabs where they come into contact with the pf hangers. I also ground the two chamfers a little larger. I moved the beer tape up against the two tabs so it wouldn't press up so much on the lockdown bar being on the bend, and that's also where it was located on my other bars.

Now, everything is working as it should. Even screwed the two lockdown mechanism adjustment screws down a tiny bit to fine tune the tightness on the lockdown bar in the closed position.

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It seemed like when the two 90deg bend tabs on the lockdown bar hit the pf hangers, the lockdown bar was sitting too high relative to the side rails. Can you post a photo of the gap between your lockdown bar and side rails? I didn't take a before. One thing you should try is to latch the lockdown bar with the pf UP so the hangers are out of the way. If it's like mine, it will probably lock in normally.

Since the pf hangers sit on the lockdown mechanism, raising or lowering the mechanism wouldn't change the distance between the top of the hangers and were the lock slide needs to engage the hooks on the lockdown bar.

I ground off material on the two 90deg bend tabs which lowered my lockdown bar enabling the lock slide to engage AND also made the gap between lockdown bar and side rails much smaller (like it should be).

I think you may be able to simplify your design by adding a thin flange on the top to sandwich it between the original 3D printed speaker mount and the wooden speaker panel. Then you wouldn't need to use printer time printing the geometry of the mount that came with the game.

Installed my fanless power supply today. Wow, what a difference. It'll take some time to get used to not hearing the whiney fan anymore after game overs.

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Regarding the tight lockdown bar, I noticed today that the pf hangers don't seem to be supporting the pf. I have no idea what is. I can run a piece of paper under these things. The hangers wher what was keeping the lockdown bar too high and preventing it from easily engaging and disengaging when raising the pf.

Can anyone solve the mystery?

Here's pics of both hangers (left and right, all 4 sides look the same). Notice the gap, goes all the way thru.

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The fanless power supply that Scott recommended in an earlier post is a little larger than original so I had to drill 4 new pilot holes for mounting screws. The red/black cable is a stretch but it's long enough to make it. The input and output terminals on new PS are in different order than original so make sure you reconnect everything properly.

Safest thing to do is figure out why it's so tight before grinding anything. That photo is is after grinding, you cans see my sharpie mark and where I ground a little over 1/16" off the tab. Same on other tab in slightly different position.

I think the lockdown bar is hitting the 2 playfield hanger hooks and they are holding the lockdown bar up to high relative to the lock slide mechanism.

Something weird is going on but not totally sure what it is. You can see more pics of hangers sitting too high in my other post.

Same specs as that link, but I didn't buy my panel on eBay from that link though.

To me, this game is so RAD (pun intended) that I'm happy to do these under-the-hood mods. Swapping out the display costs less than half the price of fanless power supply. The links I posted above are for the DIY type. No plans to ever offer any kits. You just need one or two parts and some basic tools plus electrical tape to re-mask off the edges of the bracket. Super easy and the improvement is bad ass!

That pretty much sums it up.

Nope.

Does anyone else get a lot of stuck balls above right orbit switch from soft plunges? I haven't tried adjusting the switch yet, because it's pretty much fixed in place with the 3D printed holder. It's 50/50 if game tilts when trying to shake it free.

OK, I'll look at it tonight.

When I received my game, the left outlane switch was in a position that had it 99% stuck closed (a little vibration would serve up another ball if ball save timer was active). I had to bend the wire on it to adjust. Didn't seem like the bracket allowed for any re-positioning?

That's exactly what I did. Way better. Did same on lower slings too.

Adjusted my left flipper switches too. Factory had both switches triggering at exact same time.

My pop bumper suddenly lost it's sensitivity. Scott suggested I clean the switch with a business card and that's all it took. Hasn't been a problem since.

Yes, my side rails and hinges looked just like that. Took some work to get them clean. Not sure what the problem is.

Holy crap, I did the same thing but it was quite a bit worse! I've never ever even come close to this happening ever before. Totally shocked. Mine happened during game play.

Even stranger, the day my game showed up while I was cleaning off all the goo from the rails and hinges, I set the lockdown bar on a stool. I walked by it and barely brushed it off the stool. It fell and put a gash in my right achilles area of my leg. Super deep, almost needed stitches!

I got even with the damn thing when I ground it down so my lockdown mechanism would open/close without seizing up.

Mine fell off into the cabinet once too. Shocking. Seemed to land the back end of the pf on the top of the sub enclosure.

Does that kit come with a smoked plastic? I didn't see it in the photos.

OK, that's what I was looking at but didn't see anything about the smoked plastic.

I finally pulled the trigger on the Pinball Life RGB LED updated Shoot Again Timer. Didn't include any instructions. Doesn't seem to fit in the game as-is. Looks like it will need new mounting holes in the playfield and the harness organizer post to be relocated for it to even fit the game? Saw someone made a different 3D printed bracket for it. I thought this would be drop in. What's everyone doing to install this straight?

If anyone needs it, I redesigned the bracket for updated Shoot Again Timer mod so that it uses the included lasered plexi and only the original screws and NO need to make new holes in the playfield. Perfect fit on my game. STL file here. https://tinyurl.com/5xfcb566

If you're going the route of a 3D printed a mount for this, the one I posted doesn't need any extra hardware, or new holes in the pf, and you can't see it because the kit's black plexi piece is still used.

If anyone wants my 3D printed bracket version for the ball save timer mod mounting that has worked great for me and didn't require any new hardware, I can probably print a few for $20 shipped using USPS First Class (no tracking no insurance no international).

Just print it how ever you want to set the machine up with whatever hard material. If time isn't an issue then use smaller layers and higher infill %.

I’m sure it’s buried in this thread somewhere, but what’s the best way to mod the scoop to reduce bounce outs? I finally adjusted my game to get further into the reactors but the bounce outs are really starting to affect my game play. Thx.