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(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,455 posts
  • 535 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 47 minutes ago by tmfeuerh
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (3 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (3 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (3 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (3 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (2 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (2 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (2 years ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#491 2 years ago

Well, it would appear that I'm in this club now #218. I purchased through Joe at PinballSTAR. Sounds like they are estimating a March/April timeframe . I haven't selected my add ons yet.

#494 2 years ago
Quoted from DS_Nadine:

Wich year?
We're at game 25 delivered a couple of days ago, about 1.7 days inbetween machines. If that continues in this pace that would be 2019.

lol, well pinballstar sold me on a timeline that lines up with my new house (where I can actually fit the damn thing) . I'm sure there is some wiggle room in his estimation, along with the timeline for my house completion.

If it's 2019, then someone else in AZ better be willing to have me crash at their house for a few weekends .

1 week later
#566 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Your answer doesn't fit the question?
But never mind. Spooky Charlie already explained it to me.

What did he say? I don't see the post. I personally ordered the knocker because I love the knocker...however I will say I don't love the knocker when you cannot control the knocker volume. For example, my friend has a TOM machine that scares the sh*t out of me every time it goes off.

#599 2 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

It's a "sac rack," which is used for $1 games. Each person put one Golden Sac (Sacagawea dollar) in the slot. It is just to make it easier than having paper money on the glass. Also helps when there might have been too much alcohol involved and someone puts a $10 (or $100) down instead of a $1.

This bar near my place uses this thing called PayRange ( which is absolutely awesome. Basically you hold your phone near the game and swipe up to coin in.

#611 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Sacs and their rack aren't for buying in. They're for betting. Payrange allow for that? Everybody digitally transfer a dollar to some holding pen, then to the winner? No? Awww.

Ahhhhhhh. I’m new to this line of gambling. Tell me more .

#612 2 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

My buddies & I have added a little variety to Sac Rack wagering. Some might enjoy...
Instead of using Sac dollars we use presidential $1 coins, because dead presidents are way cooler! The President coins are always stored inside the coinbox & never leave the house. There are only 39 President coins, so we use one Sacagawea as the 40th coin.
Everybody buys in for $10 in singles. The coins are laid out on the bar & everyone picks their favorite gold presidents. There's always a fight over Martin Van Buren (killer sideburns). We also have an additional $10 per person side bet (more on that later). All the cash goes in the coinbox.
Then we play 4-player games, everyone betting dollar per game using the sac rack, highest score takes the 4 coins. After 10 rounds, everyone pulls out their wad of presidents, and the $40 in singles get paid out to each player based on number of coins.
As for the $40 side bet, we use a random number generator app to pick a random number from 1-40. Whomever is holding the presidential coin that matches the number wins the cash (ex. Random Number 16 = Abraham Lincoln). And it's a great way to learn about presidents! Pinball, beers & US History! What's not to love here?!?!? Plus if you got your ass handed to you all night, you still have a shot to win some money.
The only thing we'd love to have is a POTUS PERCH from Pinball life, instead of a Sac Rack, loaded with stars, some stripes, bald eagles, liberty bells, and freedom. A fan can only dream right????

This is fantastic.

#620 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

TNA #252 ordered. check!
39 President coins ordered. check!
Electric Pink Golden Sac Rack - Includes 4 Golden Sac's. check!
Three Las Vegas pinball friends to battle with on my TNA in 6 months. now accepting applications....


#694 2 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Holy WOW! What reactor was that???

Your game # is your game #... if something happens and you have to sell your spot, we aren't going to change the entire list to bump everyone up a number. If we can help someone who is going to be in the area and can pick up a game in person, we're nice and try to do that (like today). If someone calls and says "hey, I'll take my brand new game to a big show you can't make" ... yep, we will try and do that as well. Some prime operator locations will also get their number a little faster if it helps get the game in new areas for more exposure.
We aren't selling games out the back door while nobody looks, we aren't taking more money to get someone a game faster (that HAS been offered)... we're doing all we can to be helpful and keep everybody happy while doing what's best for Spooky, Scott, and our customers.
Truth is, as more TnA's get out there, THE MORE IT SELLS. We've hired 2 more people in the last few weeks to speed things up.
It's like, we care and stuff.

As much as I want my game ASAP, I think I perfectly timed it with my move into a new house. So I'm more than happy to hold my spot . That said...if someone wants to buy me the butter cabinet, I'll swap places .

1 week later
#773 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

#32 in the house. So happy to be a part of this club. Question for owners: When my reactor is activated the right flipper stutters / jiggles. Similar to the flipper stutter on Dialed in. Is this part of gameplay?

Is this the butter cabinet?

#782 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Service Menu Tests and Rubber Ring List have been uploaded to my website under the documentation section.
Happy Holidays!

What do you consider the “documentation” part of your website? I’m not seeing anything labeled documentation, granted I’ve been drinking, and it is Xmas eve.

1 week later
#820 2 years ago

Yeah, I'm blown away by how much my kids love pinball. It really has a magic that cannot be virtualized. I certainly want them to keep trying, but it just isn't there.

#853 2 years ago

I think Scott has too much time on his hands if he is cranking out cassette taps. Get you butt over to Spooky and start assembling tables!

I’m kidding. That is super cool.

#909 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Set the game up with all legs at equal height with the casters. At 6.5 degrees, the game feels perfect but crazy fast!

I’m not following this advice. Does this mean start the playfield at 0 degrees?

Thanks for the info. I appreciate everyone’s take on this.

#926 2 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I just said that it plays great at 6.5 degrees. All leg casters flat are a good starting point for this angle.

Got it...sorry I wasn't following.

#1005 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

OK guys, I just put up the new Accessory power supply for TNA up on the PBL website. Although this in not an official spooky sanctioned product, it will allow you to safely plug in mods to the game without touching the 12v or 5v supply on the game which reduces the risk of breaking something. It even has outputs that use the standard 3 pin Molex connectors that all modders are used to so you can plug in things like lit flipper buttons, etc. Please use responsibly.

Scott, can you put a standard 110vAC plug on this? I would like to power my mini fridge combo toilet so that I never have to leave the game’s side.

P.S. please invent a food storage combo waste disposal device.

#1085 2 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

It's already been done!
» YouTube video

Haha! I’ve never seen that. Thanks!

1 week later
#1201 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Slingshot rubbers >> go down 1/4 inch (I think they are 2.5? so go down to 2.25) and that seems to have solved the ball under sling issue from speedy balls (seems to happen during multiball). I have not had any issues since down sizing rubber.

If this is the case, will Spooky start shipping it with smaller rubbers?

#1209 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Backing the sling power down to 6 helps this completely.

Ok, I understand whysnow. I was just curious how the discovery is issues in the wild trickles back to the manufacturing changes. I had assumed that after some number of games, changes start to occur to the base.

For example, will you change the default setting thenotrashcougar? I haven’t even played this game, I’m ust curious seeing as my game is in the 200s. Should I be making a list of these kinds of suggestions, or does the hardware and software evolve to solve issues as they are discovered?

#1215 2 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Read through both of the TNA threads.
You will see Scott is constantly taking feedback, fixing bugs, and adding improvements. Last night Owlnonymous streamed beta code on twitch and Scott has already fixed some bugs that cropped up before he releases v1.1.0 to the wild.
If you download the TNA code updates from:
There is a changelog included that highlights fixes and features. That gives some good insight to the process.
You very quickly get the sense that Scott is pretty fanatical about making this a reliable and well coded game.

That’s cool.

#1284 2 years ago
Quoted from dri:

TNA numero 70 just paid in full today as a FYI for the ones keeping track of numbers... ready to ship on Friday.

Awesome! At this pace I’ll have #218 delivered by Santa.

Kidding of course. Take your time and do it right.

1 month later
#1974 2 years ago

Do you think #ACNC will slow production of #TNA? I am also not complaining, just curious.

#2025 2 years ago

I love how you can no longer even suggest an idea on the internet without 10 anonymous people piling on to tell you how horrible you are for suggesting something.

#2070 2 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I think it's weird that Scott created his game, and wrote all the music for it, made the music a huge part of the theme — every reactor has a fully custom song, the music even interacts with the shooter lane — and people want to ask him to let them take it out and replace with their own music. Stop and think for a moment, if this was your game, and you spent 2 years making it all work together, would you be flattered when someone asked you to let them take your music out? I wouldn't be.
Scott is my friend, so of course I want to stand up for him, but I'm really speaking about what it's like to be a creator in a community. People can 'suggest' things in pretty insulting ways. Probably they don't mean to be, but that doesn't really change that fact that they are. Try and have some respect for how hard someone worked for this.
It's fun to customize pins. I'm not trying to be a hypocrite, a lot of people have changed their games with my translites. You bought the game, I consider it yours to do with as you like. But take charge of it yourself in a personal way, and don't ask the creator to do the work for you.
Sometimes suggestions are rude, it's okay to call that out. It's how we learn.

My TNA is next to my Tron, they're a good pairing. Also both good pins for new players, easy to understand. TNA especially, I'm teaching a lot of people to play that I never bothered to show my pins before.

Not trying to argue here, but I don’t see a nicely worded ask as rude. The guy just wanted to toss out his opinion/ask. Scott ultimately built the game and decides.

With any software development, you let the business tell you what they want. You ultimately ignore 95% of it or explain why the request doesn’t make sense. You don’t flatten them because then they stop suggesting things and you lose the 5% of value that the creator never thought of.

Again, I’m not advocating for the request. I couldn’t care less. Just pointing out that 10 posts made fun of the guy’s ask, when one from Scott (which he made) could have said “no thanks”. Scott even went the extra mile and explained it, which in its own is a lot of work.

3 weeks later
#2332 2 years ago

I got to play the game for the first time tonight at ZapCon (a Phoenix pinball and arcade event). I think it is extremely good, however the machine I was playing on was just completely beat. It looked like it had 50k plays and never even had one wipe down or rubbers replaced. It still played perfectly fine, and I am now more excited than ever to get mine!

#2373 2 years ago

Will Spooky install those speaker grills at the factory? Also, does anyone know what number we are on?

#2448 2 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Here’s some pics for swapping the psu fan. You need to remove the psu from the machine. Open it’s case. Remove the screws from the PCB to free the fan. Cut the fan wire from the old fan. Solder it on the new fan.
About an hour of work. $10 in parts.
The mod cut the noise down by 80%. Now it’s great and not annoying at all.

Is the psu difficult to remove from the game?

1 month later
#2823 2 years ago

I know this is a terrible rookie question, but I cannot find a good guide for this…what is the best way to adjust leaf switches. I see that a lot of people like to adjust them out of the box for ultra sensitivity. I would like to do that as well, but I don’t exactly know how to do it. I always end up fumbling around with the leaf switch tool until it feels okay.

2 weeks later
#3126 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Finally #206

I’m #216 and based on my math, this means that mine will be done in 2018! I can’t wait!

Honestly, the wait couldn’t have been better timed. You guys will love this…I moved into a new house with a room dedicated to pinball and arcades. Awesome right!? Here is the thing, I can’t get my pins through the f’ng door to this room! It is the only room in the house that has this odd little bend which prevents me from putting a pinball machine in there (unless I take off the back box).

To rectify this problem, I am having the sliding glass door to this brand new house ripped out and installing French doors. That might make me the first person to do a construction project in order to get my TNA in place .

#3132 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Nope, actually you're the second... widened two of mine (basement to street level) from 26" to 31". Boy did those bricks make a lot of dust!
I spent almost three years ripping the heads off and said enough is enough. Congrats on your TNA and new door.

That is awesome!

#3150 2 years ago

Does anyone have a link to those speaker light diffusers? I would like to order a set, then learn out to install them once my game is ready.

2 weeks later
#3218 2 years ago

I got my email today for payment! I’m #216 if I remember correctly. (For anyone trying to make sense of the order).

#3244 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Its supposed to be like that.
It's the 80's look Scott was trying to achieve.

I am planning on swapping mine out for a CRT.

#3275 2 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

#412 here. Thinking early 2019

I don’t understand why that outlet on the wall is horizontal? I’ve never seen anything like that.

2 weeks later
#3342 2 years ago

#218 is scheduled to be delivered this afternoon! From what I understand I may need to adjust the scoop, monitor settings, and slingshot power settings. Any other tips for a fresh out of the box setup?

#3345 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Box of Kleenex for when it makes you realize what a terrible player you actually are! I’ve gone through a couple
Oh, and make sure it’s correctly leveled and not pitched too low or it’s gonna be drain city in the outlanes!

What is level for this game? 6.5 degrees? I remember reading that all auto-levelers up is automatically level on this game, is that true?

#3347 2 years ago

I got these lighted side rails from hooked on pinball, but there is shit for instructions on their site .

Am I supposed to rip the glue out of these buttons?

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#3350 2 years ago

Just fired it up, it has no sound. spookykt or spookycharlie any ideas?

#3351 2 years ago

Apparently it ships with the amp set to the O F F setting. Turned it on .

#3353 2 years ago

Anyone have a situation where the right flipper seems to go a little soft of spongy randomly? I can’t quite figure it out, seems really inconsistent.

#3354 2 years ago

Ok, revising my earlier post. It happens all of the time now. (Maybe 30 games in?). I tried powering up the right flipper, but that doesn’t seem to help it.

The flipper feels snappy without the ball, but when it hits the ball, it is somewhere between wet noodle and limp ween.

#3358 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

TNA doesn't have EOS switches. The software controls them using PWM to vary the strength for hold. The right flipper getting tired after getting hot during constant use is a known issue. Make sure you have the latest software, which does help. Increasing flipper strength makes the coil heat up faster, which can actually make the problem worse. You can reduce the flipper hold strength, which does seem to help.

So, actuating the flipper manually produces a squeaking sound. I inspected the whole linkage and couldn’t see anything that looked off.

I ended up pulling the coil sleeve and replacing it with a new one. This seems to have completely fixed the issue. It still feels a bit more rough when compared to the left flipper, but at least it is playable now.

I’ll ping out to the support and see what they recommend.

#3361 2 years ago
Quoted from Cmartin1235:

^^Regarding the weak flipper, was the coil sleeve slightly too short? There were some flipper assemblies that came out of pinball life with the wrong sleeves causing the coil to sag in the assembly and develop a weak flip after a bit of play. It happened to two of my home brews. Spooky gets sone of their parts from PBL. Might be related.

This is really interesting! So I noticed I could see the sleeve end on the left flipper just barely, but could not see it on the right flipper. That prompted me to wonder if somehow it was missing. Sure enough, I removed it and compared it to the standard sizes I have. The replacement sleeve I had was about 5mm longer, and I figured that was fine. Now it is perfect.

So, if this is an issue, then I absolutely had it. It is playing perfectly now! I even turned the flippers down a bit to try and protect the glass .

#3368 2 years ago

thenotrashcougar I discovered a really minor bug that I thought I might report. If you disable the free game match, and you have balls locked at the end of the game, it will attempt to get ready for the next game before releasing the balls. This typically causes a race condition where it triggers a lost ball search and occasionally reports that it cannot start because four balls are not loaded.

#3369 2 years ago

Is there any simple way to fix a stationary target that has a loose stack? I have one that keeps leaning to the side because of this :/.

C876C9DE-5F83-4FD4-AE35-EC79FF1C31BD (resized).jpeg
#3375 2 years ago

Scott emailed me and said they are these:

I will try to solder a new one in since this one leans so much.

#3376 2 years ago

My 5 year old scored 427,661 on her fifth game. She blew the first reactor and managed to get a multiball. Considering 35% of my games end with scores less than that, I am pretty proud.

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#3385 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

This is really interesting! So I noticed I could see the sleeve end on the left flipper just barely, but could not see it on the right flipper. That prompted me to wonder if somehow it was missing. Sure enough, I removed it and compared it to the standard sizes I have. The replacement sleeve I had was about 5mm longer, and I figured that was fine. Now it is perfect.
So, if this is an issue, then I absolutely had it. It is playing perfectly now! I even turned the flippers down a bit to try and protect the glass .

I think my issue is starting to return. Could there be a problem with anything else?

#3399 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I think my issue is starting to return. Could there be a problem with anything else?

Has anyone had a repeated problem with the right flipper power? I've changed the sleeve with great success, but now the problem is returning. I will change the sleeve again tonight, but I suspect that something bigger is happening.

Any tips around this would be really appreciated!

#3401 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there any simple way to fix a stationary target that has a loose stack? I have one that keeps leaning to the side because of this :/. [quoted image]

Well, I replaced the target with a new one that thenotrashcougar recommended from PinballLife. I now have perfect stationery targets . I am also fairly prod of myself for not f’ing it up.

spookycharlie I did have a question about how you manufacture these…I noticed that the wires soldered to the target are continuous. There is no cut in the wire where it solders onto the target. Instead the shielding is perfectly cut off the wire, then the wire is folded over the target and neatly soldered to the pole. How do you do that?

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#3409 2 years ago
Quoted from oyvindmo:

Heh... I have put TNA on location here, and the most reactors anyone has destroyed so far is five. So, just for fun I announced a small prize to the first person to destroy reactor 6. Nobody has managed to do it yet, but a thought hit me yesterday: It's possible to cheat a bit, in a slightly "pay-to-win" fashion:
1) Start a multiplayer game
2) Play one player focused on destroying reactors
3) Use the other player(s) only to load up locks for the main player
4) Profit!

I would hope that people don't really care that much to cheat...I mean what is the fun in pinball if you're just cheating for a pair of socks?

#3416 2 years ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

A while ago someone asked about adjusting the slingshot switches. I said I would make a video... well I finally got it done.

Maybe I'm crazy, but I typically just unscrew all of these switches and targets, pull them off the playfield and adjust them, then put them back in for testing. I'm absolutely no expert here, but I find the angles and space for adjustment damn near impossible with everything left in tact.

#3428 2 years ago

I have one of those…I just find it funky to adjust the switches around all of the stuff on the playfield. Maybe I am just doing it wrong.

#3437 2 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

Just got my target decals from flashinstinct installed. Well done dir! The really blend into the game like they were meant to be there.

I have to agree…I never care for decals, but these ones are an excellent fit.

1 month later
#3760 2 years ago
Quoted from KingKool:

I've set the playfield to approximately the recommended 6.5 degrees. It seems to happen frequently when the ball is thrown by the bottom right kicker; the ball is thrown over into the left-hand drain lane.

I had the same issue. I most recently turned my flippers down to like 25 and I now don’t seem to have the issue. That said, I didn’t have any issue with this out of the box. I almost feel like the game has gotten faster and more jumpy as it has aged.

1 week later
#3818 2 years ago
Quoted from HOOKED:

We just added these to our site.
This is an add on to our side rail kit.
Lit Ghosts which tie into our side rail kits.
These are powered by our kit using a splitter and install in about 20 min.
Few sets here [quoted image][quoted image]

I love these…granted I still haven’t installed the lighted side rails because I am not certain how to disable this without damage. :/

#3831 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

a chimpanzee and two trainees could install the side rail kit.

Great, where are the instructions? Where does the wire route? What is the best method for removing the side rails?

I’m sure I could figure it out by ripping this off the game, but for $120 I expected some instructions.

1 week later
#3883 2 years ago

One of my flipper springs broke off. It was literally just the one coil at the end, but it made me realize these are unlike anything in my stock of springs. Can someone find them on pinballlife and link me? I don’t see just the springs. :/

#3899 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Just take some needle nose pliers and bend a loop in the spring and hook it up

Yep, I did that immediately after it broke, I just realized I don’t have more springs like this if I ever have one break in the middle.

#3916 2 years ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Playfield protectors suck. Ruin the entire feel of the game. Why cover it up and ruin your experience only to keep it slightly nicer for the next guy?

Have you ever played on a waxed one? I really like the feel of them on most games I’ve tested. I haven’t installed one on my TNA yet, but I was thinking about it.

1 week later
#4140 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

Amp was off switch on right front side for reference.

I had the exact same thing happen. I had my multimeter out testing like an idiot only to realize there is a power switch. .

On the play field thing, mine was #218 born on 8/6/18 and it looks pretty good after 300 games or so. I just did a thorough inspection and I didn’t see anything jumping out at me.

#4160 1 year ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

I wonder when they changed the slingshot artwork on the playfield. Anyone else notice this?

Are you talking about that wood colored border? Mine doesn’t seem to have such a pronounced wood area either. That is interesting.

1 week later
#4283 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

He was referring to Lazarus ball not stuck ball.
TNA has a good amount of bounce back ball saves if you’re quick with your flippers to catch it.

Yeah, if the random chance of that isn’t valid in tournament play, count me out. I love the concept that very rarely you can save a drain like that.

#4309 1 year ago
Quoted from S_J_G:

Thanks Scott. Very much appreciated. Can't wait to see what you've got coming up... happy holidays.


1 week later
#4412 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

does anyone have the instructions to install the side light rail kit?
I got the kit and powerball for Christmas. No instructions.

Yeah, it is super annoying!

- Pull the glue out of the button holes. I used a tiny flathead screwdriver.
- Unscrew all of the wood screws on the side rails. Don’t freak out, it is easy.
- Gently lift out the side rail, and clean all he crap off of it from the laser cutting.
- Put the light in, mind the screw holes, one ends up going through the non-powered plastic of the light. Make sure it looks good before you peel the adhesive.
- Push the wires all the way back into the back box crevice between the cabinet and head.
- Optional: I ran mine through the existing wire tubing to keep it as clean as possible.
- Plug it into the aux power port pictured on the Hooked On Pinball site.

#4421 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

This is totally normal behavior. If you have 2 balls locked and you barely hit the release target and it knocks the ball back and drops the middle target, it will let the first locked ball fall in with the 2nd. Nothing is wrong there as you can release both the same exact way. I was going to make a random award for this, but its unfair since it cannot be done on purpose.

I can understand not doing random rewards, but I would love to see some more animations or crazy call-outs when stuff like this happens that you can detect in the code. Think of the Dan Forden "Toasty!" in the bottom right hand corner of Mortal Kombat II. That stuff is pure joy when the randomness happens.

1 week later
#4565 1 year ago
Quoted from stevevt:

You're going to seal in the dimples rather than playing the machine without the protector and having the dimples smoothed out naturally? That seems like a strange choice.

I had just assumed the play field protector couldn’t stop dimpling.

2 weeks later
#4667 1 year ago
Quoted from bsobie:

Does anyone have problems with trying to get the ball into the scoop? If I hit the scoop 10 times it might go in there once.

I’ve read a lot of comments about this scoop, and by no means am I an expert, but I would challenge people to keep track of how many times they unintentionally hit it vs. when they are aiming for it. I find that my friends and I are quite successful at hitting it when not attempting the shot. That makes me feel confident that I just need to up my game.

#4719 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Alright folks I’ve got the fix for anyone being frustrated by the left scoop rejecting well aimed shots.
Simply take 1.5” piece of wide Velcro (the fuzzy side) and stick it to the underside of the scoop. Give the scoop metal a quick wipe with some rubbing alcohol first.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Also make sure your scoop metal is bent a bit on the low side (carefully) as well.
[quoted image]
This is an old pinball’s trick for slowing down the ball a smidge in places where it can cause problems. Used the same thing on my STTNG cannon kicker before to keep the ball from bouncing off the ramp and back down the scoop.
This works 100% and makes TNA feel like a whole different game.
...and for Lionman’s sake turn your flipper strength back up!

Completely semantic question…is this technically cheating? Does this create a game that wouldn’t be valid for a tournament setting?

I am curious about how this works in the pinball scene. I understand that all players who played your machine would have the same benefit, thus nullifying any advantage. I just happened to wonder how mods like this work in the world of pinball “rules”.

2 weeks later
#4799 1 year ago

Well, #216 has started to get play field chipping . The bottom right sling star post has some paint coming up around it. I’ve played an estimated 800 games on it (code update wiped my audits). The bottom left sling star post looks to be “pushing” up some of the clear coat. I guess it is time to order the play field protector.

#4806 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

Don't waste your money on a full playfield protector. Just get the washers and place them on the problem points. They look and work great. That's just me though.

I actually like the playfield protectors. I think they are unnoticeable in terms of play and accept the wax even better than the clear coat.

#4840 1 year ago

Thank you for the rubber washers spookykt!

TNA Club, which six star posts do you put them under? I can guess two under the bottom slingshots since I have flaking there. I assume the two posts next to the keypad targets. Do the last two go on top of the slingshots?

#4844 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I did this as well and waxed the playfield while I was at it.

Ideally yes, but they only sent me six of them. That said...I tried it and I don't care for the black look. Has anyone found a clear colored one that matches the size?

#4856 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I used these and they work well. Similar to the ones above but in metric vs standard. link »

Awesome, thanks! What dimension did you use? Ideally I don't want it to overhang too much.

#4859 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

So I adjusted the monitor settings to 85 Contrast, 25 Brightness, and Gamma On, as someone else had mentioned a few pages back and what a difference that makes! I no longer feel like it needs the screen upgrade. I also swapped out the power supply fan with a Noctua NF-A6.25 FLX and that made a pretty big difference in the noise. It's not inaudible in a quiet room like I had hoped, but it is a big improvement.

Those Noctua fans are awesome! I am totally buying that if you say it is a quiet fan. The fan noise in the game has become more annoying to me over time.

As for the display calibration, where do you access that?

#4874 1 year ago

I installed that Noctua fan and I can confirm it is way quieter. That said, it is a little more involved than I had hoped. It took me about 50 minutes and there are a few tight spaces to deal with.

Hands down, the most important part is to ensure you have the correct sized Phillips head screwdrivers. The entire power supply cage is held together by tiny screws that strip really easily.

Additionally, now that I can hardly hear the fan, I hear something else. I can’t tell exactly what it is, but I think it is a high pitched noise coming from the HookedOnPinball lighted side rails. Has anyone else noticed that?

#4888 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

I think you should be able to tell if your game is affected by the issue by whether or not the artwork goes under the posts or is shaped around them. In the pics that marvello posted, you can see the artwork extends under the posts. In the image I posted, you can see that the artwork goes around the posts.
[quoted image]

So this is interesting. Was the problem all along hat the art bled under the posts causing a weak barrier between the clear coat and wood? Are all of the new games printed differently?

4 weeks later
#5002 1 year ago

I cut spooky a break because I know they are small and trying to build something awesome…hen my friend asked me, if you bought a new car and the paint started to chip away after 10k miles, would you be okay with that? I am torn. I almost wish that spooky could make some kind of printed Mylar that could repair the wounds on here play fields.

Mine started chipping around the 300 game range.

258E07F9-9070-4BBC-817F-3CAC5B41C730 (resized).jpeg80879CAB-BC68-431A-9EAE-F3B4DBE8F378 (resized).jpeg99D2B2FD-AF71-442A-B43C-0D1FC78AD979 (resized).jpeg9FE86C43-FED9-4108-B873-C65171DACF09 (resized).jpegBA84629C-8EA4-4141-8C9B-C2BFCF5FC728 (resized).jpegD221C8E0-DC58-468E-94F9-F530F141B685 (resized).jpeg
#5004 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

So tonight I cleaned and waxed the playfield and plastics for the first time. I also went ahead and replaced the balls and some of the rubbers. Since they were cheap, I had bought red and purple post sleeves in addition to the standard clear to try out and see what they look like. This time around, I put on purple and I kinda like it![quoted image]

That looks great!

#5018 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

I've noticed that on the newer runs, the graphics are designed to wrap around the posts rather than running under them. I've got 6-700 plays on mine now with the updated playfield graphics and so far I've had no issues.[quoted image]

I noticed that too, and a few poss back I tried to ask if that is the cause of the issue. I never got a response from spooky so I won’t bother tagging them again. I am sure they know, I was just curious.

I also noticed that the BKSOR game that Stern just announced doesn’t seem to have any star posts. I wonder if these are just bad design for modern play fields.

#5037 1 year ago

spookycharlie would it be possible to tell us what happened that caused this bit of annoyance with the playfields? I completely understand if you cannot talk about it. I wondered if the details would help people get the closure they are seeking?

#5137 1 year ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Just curious - anyone else have an issue under the latest release and the latest beta where a Tilt never recovers? Mine does it now under both those versions. It goes into Tilt and then just sits there. Only way out is to power-cycle. Scott told me he's aware of it but hasn't been able to recreate it, so I'm curious if others are seeing it?

I’ve had this too, but I think it is actually the plumb bob swinging. It is super sensitive.

#5160 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Earplug mod FTW

I’ve heard of this, but I don’t understand how you use an earplug to help it swing correctly. I think the more logical move would to be lose these contraptions for a digital tilt sensor. There is no way that could be extremely costly to manufacture.

#5176 1 year ago

Ok, now I am starting to get a little pissed. 3rd time I have been able to play post installing the washers and what do I notice after 3 minutes???? Oh, well my star posts got completely chewed up!

All of the ones that take direct ball impact are completely destroyed. Is there a fix for the fix?

Did I install the washers incorrectly?

F6E422D0-EDB2-48E2-AD30-323332BEB9B7 (resized).jpeg
#5178 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Same thing happened to me.
You bought the Amazon washers, right?
I think there is a chemical interaction between the Starposts and the washers that we bought off of Amazon.
I could bend the plastic on my broken Starposts which I shouldn't be able to do because they are not flexible by design.
I replaced the starposts this weekend and left the washers hoping they had off gassed enough. My fingers are crossed.
If they die again I am going to get different washers for the new starposts.

Shit! Yeah, I really wanted the clear washers. Keep me posted. I am going to order more posts.

I wouldn't think that a chemical reaction could occur that quickly without discoloring the posts. Seeing as they are clear, but don't show the slightest amount of "fog" on them. Has anyone had this issue with the black washers?

#5199 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

This looks like a bad reaction of the polycarbonate and the mystery rubber that the clear washers you have are made of. Polycarbonate is not immune to chemical reactions. I have seen some cleaner waxes and even 409 destroy star posts. If you can find out what that washer is made of, you can cross reference the chemicals here to see if they are damaging to polycarbonate. This is not a common problem. I would put the neoprene washers that Charlie gave out on there or use silicone as that is inert to the starpost material.
Polycarbonate Chemical Compatibility Chart:

So I was thinking…this is happening because of either a chemical incompatibility or the posts have too much give as a result of the rubber base. Why not skip the rubber and use a pet G fender washer?

I ordered some of those from PinballLife to see if I can get a good fit. I didn’t bother to measure anything because I’m tired, but I suspect it should be a fairly close fit.

#5200 1 year ago
Quoted from fnosm:

This is the only machine that I have ever had starpost issues with. The way these are falling apart so fast is very odd.
BTW as long as you are ordering starposts (presumably from Pinball Life) I suggest you take a look at the Scott Danesi 'red' protectors he just came out with. They look great, are reasonably priced and since you will be replacing the starposts anyway it is very easy to swap them in.

I like the colored protectors a lot, I just haven’t pulled the trigger yet because I still really like the look of the game.

Trust me, I was certainly eyeing those toxic green and nuclear orange star posts on PBL as replacements. I think when I do my first full rubber replacement I may get creative.

#5216 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I personally would not put PETG washers under the star posts. These are hard plastic just like the star post. The neoprene washers keep the star post from moving when taking a direct hit and digging into the playfield.

That is interesting. I would expect the PETG would ensue there is less movement since there is no give, and you are simultaneously spreading the force over a wider area.

I can find my neoprene washers spooky sent, but I really hate to have a black outline around the posts .

#5225 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I am honestly no expert on this, but my take is I would want it to act like a gasket. It will keep it from sliding around.

That makes sense, in theory I would be reducing the coefficient of friction using PETG like material. Most likely automotive clear coat is better at holding the post firm.

Thank you for explaining your theory. I will run a couple of different tests and report back.

3 weeks later
#5301 1 year ago

So I think I can confirm the chemical breakdown of the star posts when using the Amazon clear rubber washers. Here are examples of my star posts. The splintered one was taking direct ball impact at the top of the left sling. More interestingly, the other one which is cracked throughout, was in the return lane of that same sling.

There is no way that the second one was being hit hard enough to cause the kind of “shattered” plastic I see. Furthermore, all of the posts which had these washers now permanently have the washers attached to the bottom. If I go to remove them, they just shatter.

I am now testing clear plastic washers from PinballLife.

03BD2902-1EBE-4A4E-B1B9-AE0CD37858CA (resized).jpeg28763DA0-90C4-4452-A9C7-42D1DE8DB376 (resized).jpeg
#5304 1 year ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Are these the rubber washers you bought off Amazon? link »


#5314 1 year ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

I’ve just checked mine and every post which had the amazon washer under it has disintegrated. The ones with the black washers are fine. It’s possible I overtightened them. It’s also possible that there’s something funny going on with the clear washers.

Not an official experiment, but this gives me another reason to think it is chemistry not physics.

#5315 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I’m sure some of you know already, but this sort of thing is happening on Pirates as well.
And probably many other games..

I haven’t heard anything. Are you saying that other modern games are having issues with the star posts cutting into the play field?

1 week later
#5374 1 year ago

Question about the flipper hold power…I should be able to hold my right flipper and withstand the impact from the reactor scoop right?

It seems when I do this now, the flipper will move as soon as the ball hits it. Also in a multi ball scenario I have seen it do a half flip when it has two or more balls, or get knocked backwards when trying to live catch a few balls at a time.

Is this simply the nut needing tightening or something with the coil?

2 weeks later
#5423 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I see your point... I guess it was just a knee-jerk reaction on my part when Scott posted that the software knows about it. For the record, my goal is always to "play better"... that's why I play pinball almost daily.

I've always enjoyed the little things like this in pinball. On my game (or maybe with my play style) this happens pretty infrequently. When it does, I love it. In fact, if thenotrashcougar says he knows when this happens in code I would love some kind of call out or visual! I've been very impressed that it can happen, yet not once has the game improperly trigged into a multiball mode.

Lastly, I think triggering the drop target with software would be impossible. The way those mechanisms are constructed, I think you would have to physically interact with the target in order to get it to drop.

#5430 1 year ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Drop targets can be triggered with software . , it is done with an extra coil used to trigger them . They are triggered at the end of the game to release any locked balls .

Good point. I didn’t think about that. I was thinking about some of the older games I have messed around with. Sorry if I confused anyone.

#5431 1 year ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Wait, do you have a TNA as well, on location?

Nah, I have one in my house. I’ve toyed with putting it on location, but I really like it and find myself playing it often.

#5433 1 year ago
Quoted from Roostking:

Thats cool. I played it at the Grid in Mesa when they had it.

I didn’t know they had it. I am bummed that they got rid of all of their pins . They had a nice collection.

#5451 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Working on a new plastic protector that highlights the ball locks may try some colors next[quoted image]

That is cleaver! I wonder if we could get a light on the rim so that it would illuminate the design.

#5466 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

I know this has been asked a million times but whats the right clear washers that wont react with my star posts and cause them to break down

So, I ended up using the clear plastic washers and I am pretty happy with the results. They seem to protect the playfield and blend in. I’ll try to take a picture later.

#5475 1 year ago I think the 3/4 fit really well. You have to hold them center, but it is easy as you can nudge them before you tighten the posts. I’ll get a picture, I have just been busy.

#5481 1 year ago

Here are a couple of photos of those hard PETG washers under the posts. I have put about ~70 games on it since installing them, and I have not noticed any ill effects. Keep in mind that @thenotrashcougar recommended that we not do this as a solution to the playfield flaking problems. If you do this, I cannot vouch for the longevity or potential further damage. I also installed the playfield protector just to try it out on this game. That is what you will notice outside of the 3/4th washer.

IMG_1324 (resized).JPEGIMG_1325 (resized).JPEG
2 months later
#5811 1 year ago
Quoted from jfesler:

I found a place that does the neoprene washers, bulk. armouredhobbit put them on today. She said quite a few of the star posts had to be replaced; the original material definitely was no bueno, as even star posts not taking impact were failing bad..
Here's what I found for the neoprene:
E75316116 3/4" OD X 3/16" ID X 1/16" Thickness - Endeavor Series Neoprene Rubber Washers
I bought a bag of 300 for $43.95 (plus $2.95 shipping). That should last me until the neoprene dries out...

For the LOCALS near me, I also have a ton of 3/4" OD x 5/16" ID x 1/16". The holes are bigger than they need to be. If you want some, grab some at the next gathering.

For the record I am still rocking the PET G washers ( They are invisible and serve the same purpose as the metal washers shipping on the new games.

3 months later
#6165 10 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Imma see if I can get Charlie to go in halfsies with me Thanks for the heads up.
(There was supposed to be a silly face emoji but it didnt show up)


#6172 10 months ago

Has anyone experienced the odd feeling of the right flipper being "mushy" randomly? I've played three different TNAs now and I'm convinced it is not just my game. It is impossible to reproduce, but very occasionally I feel like like that flipper doesn't flip the way I'm expecting. I've seen it happen at all times during the game. It is possible this is all in my head, but I'm pretty sensitive to those changes in flip strength.

8 months later
#7189 53 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Flipper coils do get hot when playing non-stop. I have measured the temperature of the TNA flippers on default settings against a new Stern and a WPC game and they are all about the same when flipping. If your coils are getting too hot, you can try and turn down the Hold Boost setting or the coil pulse power.
Hold Boost:
Machine (Standard) -> Flipper Hold Boost Level
The default is 3. But keep in mind by turning this down, the flipper will hold up with less power (when the flipper button is being held) and could potentially drop a bit on a really hard hit out of the scoop to a raised flipper. You might want to test this with the glass off to be sure you are happy with how it is set.
Flipper Power:
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Left Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Right Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Upper Main
Turning down these settings will effect how hard the flipper hits the ball.
This is really just a balancing act, but the only side effect from a flipper coil getting too warm is that it will start to become weak, that is the only time I would start messing with these settings. Having it be a little warm through the playfield is not unheard of, but not concerning. There is a steel plate and an air gap on the flipper assembly that is between the coil and the playfield. Worse case, the flipper becomes weak during gameplay.
One final note on flipper coil heat. If you are a nervous flip type player, meaning you flip the flippers all the time even when the ball is not being hit, this will cause extra heat on the coils as it is pulsing the coil full strength at a higher duty cycle (controlled by you!). I have built a few pinball test rigs over the years and have found this "Duty Cycle" plays a HUGE roll in whether or not I melt down flipper coils. I found on normal-ish settings of about 30ms on 11629 coils, I can fire it about every 1.2 seconds for 24 hours a day and it will not go into thermal runaway. Any quicker than that, and the flipper coil temp will run away on me and bad stuff happens. This also depends on environmental ambient temp as well. OK, this is probably too much info. Back to my morning coffee.
Hope this info helps!

I love this post and really enjoy learning more about the mechanical and software aspects of managing these solenoids. That said, my game seems to go “soft” pretty soon after play is started. I am not a wild flipper, but I will often notice one of the flippers has zero hold strength when catching a ball. Do you think that would be a hardware issue?

1 week later
#7206 43 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

What is your Flipper Hold Boost Level and what strength are your flipper coils set to?

Everything should be set to default. Sorry I went on a social distancing vacation and haven’t been able to check. I’ll get you the numbers tomorrow.

#7217 40 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

What is your Flipper Hold Boost Level and what strength are your flipper coils set to?

Where would I find "Flipper Hold Boost Level"?

Here are the coil settings ->

IMG_1511 (resized).JPEG
1 month later
#7417 8 days ago

thenotrashcougar when the BOM is done for the remake, could you put everything together and sell an upgrade bundle on pinball life?

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