(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 6,202 posts
  • 478 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by dri
  • Topic is favorited by 192 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (2 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (2 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (2 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (2 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (2 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (1 year ago)

Post #1958 Beacon LED upgrade and suggestions with photos. Posted by NimblePin (1 year ago)

Post #2335 Picture of how trough should look like from Scott D. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #2336 Switch adjustment suggestions. Posted by jar155 (1 year ago)

Post #2353 instructions on speaker grille add-on Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #2423 Fanless Power Supply. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Post #2439 Images for those looking to swap the PSU fan Posted by OnTheSnap (1 year ago)

Post #2527 Info on replacement higher quality screen. Posted by audihere (1 year ago)

Post #2738 Great list of mods to consider. Posted by 27dnast (1 year ago)

Post #2834 Suggestions on contrast settings Posted by mayuh (1 year ago)

Post #3712 Spooky highlight playfield problem Posted by SpookyCharlie (1 year ago)

Post #4116 Info on the washers. Posted by SpookyKT (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5899 3 months ago

Would doing a playfield swap on this machine require soldering?

#5906 3 months ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

I did a swap and don't recall having to desolder anything. The pop bumper comes out in one piece which is awesome.

Cool thanks for the info. Why did you have to do a swap?

#5908 3 months ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

I had some art chipping around several posts.

Do you happen to have any pics or documentation of the swap saved?

#5910 3 months ago

I just got this game today and now see 2 issues. On the bonus lamp lights, the 2x lamp stays lit all the time even during tests, and none of the other bonus lights work at all, including during tests.
2nd issue is very loud hum from left flipper, holding flipper makes the 2x light flicker slightly. Any ideas?

Added 102 days ago:

Edit: the 2k light is the only one on, not the 2x light

#5911 3 months ago

Also, the ball save display is not working

#5914 3 months ago

The connectors all seemed snug, I did see that the “cap” of one of the IDC connectors on the lamp board was missing, and found it laying in the cabinet. I put it back on and inspected the ribbon cable cap connection, seems fine. I see that those 2 cables run from the lamp board on the ball save display so am assuming it’s either something with the cable or the board.

#5916 3 months ago

Tried new cables, issue is still there. I am guessing it is the LED PCB now, but do not see replacements available anywhere. Sent an email to spooky support (Charlie?)

#5917 3 months ago

Ok I think I may have found the issue, but will need a fellow owner’s help.
I followed the daisy chain of power cables from board to board, and from what I can tell the 2 gray cables on the PD-LED attached to the bonus lamp board may be in opposite positions (the in cable is in serial out and vice versa). The only thing I can base this off of is the 1 under playfield image in the pinside gallery, which shows the cables cross-crossed.
Can someone verify for me? Pic attached of the current and what I think is the incorrect config.

Also, if I need to change these, I need to take that PD-LED off of the lamp board, is it soldered on or is it just snapped/plugged in? Tried pulling slightly and it didn’t budge
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#5919 3 months ago
Quoted from Toads:

Your pic doesn't show where the other ends of the ribbon cables go so I'm not sure I can help.
However here is a pic of mine plus a pic of the bottom board with the top board removed.
Excuse my squiggly yellow lines but the yellow is showing where the tracks from each ribbon plug are connected to the sockets that hold the top board.
The ribbon cables are just pushed on held in place with hot glue.[quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry, I didn’t explain the cables well. It wasn’t the ribbon cables I wanted to see, but the round gray cables. Your picture shows what I assumed to be correct, mine are indeed backwards. I will swap those. Thanks for the pics!

#5920 3 months ago

Well I was able to get the board off and put the round gray daisy chain cables in the correct serial in/out positions, but the issue remains.

#5927 3 months ago

Well, I am still having the issue of both the ball save display and the bonus lamps not working. 2K light stays green the entire time the game is on.
I have reset each cable that goes to the PD-LED, pulled the PD-LED off of the lamp board and put it back, swapped the ribbon cables that run from the lamp board to the ball save display, and the issue is still there.
Spooky and multimorphic both say that the PD-LED has almost no fail rate, but that board runs hot when the game is on, shouldn’t be hot right?
Does the lamp board have any actual “brains” or is it just a way to keep all these LEDs together?
Like I said, ball save display isn’t working either, but unless the bonus lamp board is actively controlling that instead of just passing current to it, i wouldn’t think the lamp board is the problem.

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#5929 3 months ago
Quoted from Cammy:

The board is properly addressed with the dip switch right?

I don’t know?
Here’s pics of the p-roc and the other 2 boards.
P-roc has 7 + 8 on
Top pcb has 2,3 + 8 on
Bottom pcb has 1+3 on

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#5931 3 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

From what I can see, it looks like there is a dead short somewhere on your bonus matrix board (black board) that is overheating the PD-LED (green board). Did this work when you bought the game? Does there look to be bad board work on the bonus matrix board? A dead short on the black bonus matrix board should not damage the PD-LED (green attached board). I would start by looking for a short, or just buy a new bonus matrix board. If the lights do not function properly after that, the PD-LED board could have been damaged from overheating. If you buy a new one of those, you must make sure it is addressed (using the dip switches on the PD-LED board) the same as the one that was in there before you snap them together, otherwise it will not work and all the lights will remain white.
Replacement parts are available here:
Bonus Matrix Board: https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-bonus-matrix-lamp-board-assembly.html
PD-LED: https://www.pinballlife.com/multimorphic-pd-led-v2.html
I would try and fix it before just shotgun replacing though. Did you reach out to Spooky Support?

Hey Scott, love the game.
I am the second owner of the machine, so do not have many details, they didn’t tell me about the issue when they sold it to me. I can tell that they tried to solve the issue or work on these parts though as the hot glue from those connectors is missing, and I can see they recrimped one of the ribbon cables.
The LED board doesn’t show any work done though, not to me at least.
Unfortunately I am not sure how the DIPs should be addressed, but have the DIP configurations of the boards in the backbox in my comment above.
I have contacted spooky and they are helpful, they thought it sounded like a loose cable, but I have checked the connections.

EDIT: I see you said DIP switch in the PD-LED now, i didnt know about that, that DIP switch has pins 1+2 set to on, not sure what the proper way to address this is.

#5936 3 months ago

Is there a dip switch chart for this anywhere? It isn’t in the manual and a search comes up short

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