I picked up a "scratch and dent" and honestly saw no issues with it on the topside. On the bottom side, just a few misaligned screw holes as far as I could tell from a glance.
It was $407 with tax and shipping
(Topic ID: 195784)
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Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017-
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
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1 month later
Depending on how the wire was coiled, I'd just take one loop off and resolder to the lug. I wouldn't try to make a solder bridge (at least not without adding a small strip of wire as well)
You can just scratch off the wire coating to expose bare surface.
Quoted from Charles_Kline:+$14 shipping.... or 2 minute repair.
And a couple days of waiting
just a different mentality of home collectors vs people who have routed games
1 month later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:OK for knockdowns... This is basically the ball traveling at full speed at the flippers and the held up flippers. This can cause a ball to knock back the flipper unexpectedly due to the hold power of the flipper mech. This does not hurt your game, or your flipper mechanism as it is just the flipper falling. What I did on TNA to combat this was made the hold stronger in the software by pulsing the main winding (this is no secret). This is the buzzing sound that you hear once in a while. This is not a one size fits all type thing though as people in different parts of the globe have different incoming voltages to their systems. TNA does not have EOS switches, if it did, I could send a "reflip" signal to the coil like other manufacturers do, but honestly, I am not a fan of this. This would cause the ball to be flipped away upon knockdown. The good news is that you can do a few things that will stop these knockdowns from happening.
1: If you have an early original run TNA, within the first 100 or so, swap out your coil stops with the A-12111 coil stops. It helps with the knockdowns.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-coil-stop-a-12111.html. You could also rebuild your flippers if your game has a ton of plays on it.
2: There is a setting called "Flipper Hold Boost Level" under the "Machine (Standard)" menu. Turn it up 1 notch. Keep in mind, this WILL make your coils run warmer, but will reduce the knockdowns. Just watch your coil heat with this one turned up. IF YOUR GAME IS WORKING FINE DO NOT TOUCH THIS SETTING. The flipper hold boost should be on the lowest number that your game plays well with.
3: If all else fails, slightly lower the left scoop power and flipper coil power for all flippers. I am basically pushing this design to the edge of failure to give it a fun experience with the default coil settings. I honestly may have to reduce this default setting in a future update so people do not have to tweak stuff.
I hope this helps to clarify what the knockdowns are, why they happen, and what can be done to fix it.
--Scott
Have you ever tried repulsing the power winding, if the flipper is up, a few ms after the scoop ejects a ball? Preemptive knock down protection
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:I have and it is not a good idea as the coils are controlled by the hardware directly to eliminate flipper lag. This unfortunately does not allow me to control the flipper hold power on the fly without massive software re-writes. It honestly is not worth it as I don't get many complaints about it after the steps I took to eliminate it.
--Scott
Keep it simple, Scott. That works too
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