Any known TNA locations in the Seattle area?

Can anyone help with dimensions of the game? I am looking for main length/width and max height from the bottom of the cab to the head with it folded down. Thanks in advance.

Misadjusted in which direction? On the game I just picked up, the slingshot switches have a much larger gap than normal to the point they are not active enough. I have seen the sticky slingshot coil a couple times now. I would think a machine gunning problem would be from switches with too close of a gap needing more debounce logic.

For anybody who was swapped playfields; is there a suggested way to disconnect the harness in order pull the PF out of the cabinet? I thought it was going to be straight forward disconnecting from the boards in the head, but some of the connectors split wires down two different branches through the pass through holes. I guess it's expected to pull some wires out of those IDC connectors? Seems weird to me, so figured I might be missing something.

A couple days after buying the game from the original owner I noticed some post pooling. Spooky said they would send some washers. Unfortunately something like 5 plays later, I lost a sliver of art. I 3d printed my own washers from TPU material which is very similar to rubber and have played it that way for the past year. Spooky agreed to sell me a new PF at cost so that has been stored away until now. I recently decided to trade the game out and offered the new owner the PF swap as part of the deal.

It isn't for the faint of heart. The topside is super easy as you would expect. The bottom side is challenging with all of the LED light boards. Also the new PF did not come with the holes drilled out for the 10 or so T-nuts, so there is some drilling into the new shiny surface. You need to prepare your sphincter in advance.

Indeed. That was my plan and I have sat on the new PF for several months. Since I am selling, I gave the swap option to the new buyer. He jumped at the chance at my offer to do the swap. PF swaps are above most people's comfort level.

Not mentioned was that the washers didn't stop the chipping and the damage had expanded. I lost a decent amount of art around three different posts and was starting to get some chipping at the main scoop. After stripping the PF, I can also see that the orbit rail has been scraping the PF as well. The through mounting bolts did not have topside washers on all of them.

Love this one! I am a Super Spinner addict.

During my PF swap, it seems I inadvertently bumped the amp dials (that sub volume is extra sensitive!). While troubleshooting the resultant bass distortion, I found that the speaker cone was pressed against the cabinet hole mesh. While this wasn't ultimately my issue, it did cause buzzing and rattling that I might have dismissed as general cabinet/glass rattling. I fixed this by adding some closed cell foam tape that I had lying around. It gave just enough mounting offset while also keeping a nice seal. I did need to add slightly longer screws. If I had to do it again, I probably would have added this stuff to the perimeter of the sub box as well. It did clean up the sound a bit. I know this has been reported before, just sharing my solution.

It has also been mentioned that plugging the sound ports tighten up the base. For those with 3d printers, I did find this for an easy solution;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874

PXL_20201031_034733115 (resized).jpg

Hope this helps.

Screenshot 2020-11-07 130928 (resized).png

Nope. All factory. Just went through a PF swap and am sure it's all correct

Same thing happened to me. Yes that sub volume is extremely sensitive at the point of distortion. This is definitely a don't fix it if it ain't broke kind of thing. I went through Scott's adjustment steps, and in the end modified the procedure a little bit. I put the LCD volume output to something like 20-25. I started with the sub and speaker volumes down to minimum, went into the test menu for music and set the game test volume all the way up to max (11). After this I *slowly* increased just the sub volume until it started to distort and then backed it off just a hair. After that, I just turned the main speaker volume up to what I thought was the best mix, and finished with adjusting the treble/bass tone knobs for personal preference.

That poor amp falls off a clean power delivery cliff quite harshly. If I was keeping the game, I would double check into if the amp power supply to see if it is up to the task or just replace the amp (at least for the sub) with something that can push more of a clean signal.

I mentioned in a recent post, but will repeat again; going through this I discovered there was quite a bit of buzzing coming from the sub driver rattling against the mesh covering that I was confusing with speaker distortion. After adding some high density foam to offset the speaker, it cleaned up the sound nicely.

Good luck!

This is what I used; https://www.mcmaster.com/93745K73. Click the catalog page link below the part description. I can't figure out how to link McMC catalog pages directly I have a bunch of this left over from a car project from eons ago. Material type and chemical resistance are not needed for this use of course. The important specs I think are 1/4" thick, 3/4" wide and 12psi to compress 25%.

If you look at the fine print, it scores only in Roman numerals.

Can you manually manipulate the actuator to poke and drop the target by hand? If the alignment is off on that poker finger thing, that part of the mech can get hung up and it wouldn't actuate.

Have you run the drop test with the PF up, just to confirm there isn't any movement? All coil wires run directly to the back box without intermediate connectors and plug straight to the main control board. You could check the main connector there and see if a wire has popped out there?

Sure, it's possible but wouldn't think likely. Can you run a multimeter? If so, do this;

GAME POWER OFF!

1) Check continuity between the coil solder tab with the solid purple wire on the bad coil and the two other good coils. These should all be connected.
2) Check ohm reading between the two coil solder tabs for the bad coil and compare against the value from a good coil. The actual value doesn't really matter, but just double checking for a short or open of a bad coil.
3) Check continuity between the coil solder tab with the Purple-Blue wire on the bad coil and connector in the backbox. There are two coil control boards. You are looking for the J7 connector on top mounted board. It should be obvious as the only connector with purple colored wires.

Ok, assuming you are measuring at the correct end points of those connections (ie, at the solder tabs themselves and not on the end of connecting wire) at this point it sounds like you potentially have bad drive transistor or a mechanical problem that you haven't identified yet.

I think the next easiest experiment would be to swap the control wires (which ever is not the solid purple wire) on the target drop coils between target 1 (the bad one) and target2. However "easiest" would depend on your soldering comfort level.

You could also remove (testing activation and movement removed from the mounut) or physically swap the coils. But keep in mind the mechs are a bit of a pain to pull out and disassemble.

If you are careful, you can fudge it a little in the middle. I tweaked the end of the rail so that on all but the slowest of rolls, it would just clear the slingshot. I think at 6.7 deg, there isn't a lot opportunity for the ball to roll slow enough to still hit the post. On the fastest loops it would hit the middle of the right flipper, but never STDM. Of course I only did this right before I sold the game. For the rest of the time I owned it, I just dealt with it always hitting the sling post. The new owner doesn't know how good he has it haha.

Before powering on a new PSU, I would do an ohm check on all of the DC outputs to make sure there isn't a short to ground somewhere.