London
102 here 
how quick do spooky build?
I'm in no rush as have no space at the moment.
(Topic ID: 195784)
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3 months later
1 month later
Quoted from bitpatrol:I wonder if the design of this game lends itself better to having many versions of code offering up a broader range of games compared to other designs? For example, adding a feature that causes the reactor to start 'leaking' would involve just having leds programmed to flash different color timed sequences etc. I think the lack of ramps and toys, and relying on lights, color, sounds, targets, shots, time make it a better generic platform for custom code forks, but not sure.
Also, having unique call-outs that rarely repeat themselves, like sounds song samples would be cool, as I find call-outs can get repetitive. Having 'organic' callouts with lots of cheap onboar memory to spare, and lots of license free sounds/music can make it more interesting than repeating call-outs... Same with light sequences, having randomness in the light patterns can make it more interesting over time, I would think. Most games have yet to take full advantage of the the ability to program LEDs and change their colors in new ways not possible in the past.
cake and eat it ?
1 month later
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from hisokajp:Something is not aligned quite right, the top bar does not go into the lockdown mech straight, i have already peeled off the decal from the top left corner of the front of the cabinet trying to wiggle thing around. I am not sure if something is bent a little or if the lockdown mech is a little sideway/too low?
I will have to spend some time checking alignment and positioning. Maybe need to move the lockdown mech a little higher?
I have to realign the flipper bats too, little high with a hop but that is easy to fix Those brand new rubbers sure are grippy fresh outta the box! Can't stop playing the game to take time to try and fix it
I have a similar problem I think but the reason is that the play field is very tight on the left hand side and needs help to slot in properly. Once this is done the lock bar is fine.
Neil.
2 weeks later
Quoted from audihere:Finally spent a substantial amount of time to figure out why my lockdown bar is so insanely tight!! Both adjustment screws have been all the way up since day one but there's times when I almost can't get the game open or buttoned back up. Started to worry me.
I compared the lockdown mechanism mounting position to other games and measured lockdown bar with calipers to compare to other lockdown bars. Everything seemed to check out.
It was pretty apparent that the lock slide was hitting too low on the chamfered hooks to engage.
When the pf is in the down position the pf hangers hit the lockdown bar's two 90deg bent tabs and hold the lockdown bar way too high to engage. I ground off between 1/16" and 1/8" on these tabs where they come into contact with the pf hangers. I also ground the two chamfers a little larger. I moved the beer tape up against the two tabs so it wouldn't press up so much on the lockdown bar being on the bend, and that's also where it was located on my other bars.
Now, everything is working as it should. Even screwed the two lockdown mechanism adjustment screws down a tiny bit to fine tune the tightness on the lockdown bar in the closed position.
I have the same issue - is the pic the after from the grinding? can you share a pic of where and what you ground?
ive found you have to push the playfield down to hook it in right...
SpookyCharlie you should check what you are doing here as its not 100%
Neil.
Quoted from audihere:I installed a ColorDMD spec LCD panel in my TNA today. Wow, what a difference! Turns out the stock HDMI to LVDS converter board used on TNA can be reprogrammed with a 1920x1080 firmware file using something like this https://tinyurl.com/y7q6jx36 or you can just buy one of these https://tinyurl.com/y7l6m9yy specifically matched to your HD panel such as one like this https://tinyurl.com/ydel6ahz
Major improvement for the contrast and viewing angle. Pinks and greens look amazing too!
And in typical ColorDMD fashion, first game, I had my best game yet with 5 reactors destroyed!
will that screen need anything to mount it?
Quoted from herg:You're welcome. I'm glad it is useful for you. I'm curious about how many others have printed. My own printer is going to be quite busy for a while.
i don't have a printer (yet but a local company i contacted would print both for £30.
Now all I need is the rest of the speaker kit but KT has gone silent!
Neil.
1 week later
I did the screen update and its worth it for sure. but you don't need to unplug the cable from the original screen and I recommend you leave it as its scary as hell to disconnect it. The driver board comes with a new and right cable to plug in. Swap the screen, swap the driver board (leave the original buttons they are they same). Hardest part was putting on new black tape round the screen straight! You then have to calibrate the colour, contrast, brightness.
I agree with the scoring above for sure although I think the shaker deserves 5/5!
Neil.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Well the package from Pinball life arrived on Saturday, and I went over the top and ordered 4 powerballs. Felt pretty silly after placing the order, as the 4 balls ran me $200+ plus shipping. But the thought of adding one, or all of them, to my TNA was enticing as hell.
Swapped out the steel balls & threw all four powerballs in my game. Then banged out a bunch of games. Holy crap! Talk about ball action. Makes an already fast game even crazier. The powerballs are lighter, so they float & speed all over the playfield. With all of that action, there were times they were REALLY getting airborn & smashing into the playfield glass. That was a little nerve-racking, but it sure was a lot of fun.
Will all four stay in my machine? Well they're staying in there for now. I need to play some more games to decide, but I think the leading viewpoint of just one powerball is probably the way to go. It's pretty crazy with all four in there. It changes the physics of the skill shot plunge for sure. And it might be more exciting/mysterious for players when just that single powerball pops into the shooter lane. I'll always have one powerball in there, that's for sure.
With that said, I shot some video if anyone is thinking about doing this. You can see how crazy it gets during multiball. My game is setup all standard, 6.5 degree pitch, etc. Enjoy!» YouTube video
epic LOL
Quoted from PDFVT:I’m getting two different colors on my speaker LED’s. Without a game started the left one is the correct Purple while the right one is Red. They also do not match durrrig play except with they are both green. Ideas?
Id guess the connection has gone.
1 week later
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
2 weeks later
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from herg:I ran into one small issue. The retaining bumps on the sides are offset, so one of them didn't line up. I clipped it off, and is working great now. Finally, a beacon that is bright enough.
[quoted image]
do your neighbours think you now have a reactor in your basement? 
(yes I have ordered one also!)
if we are talking code updates and I'm pretty sure that its bug fixes only now (and thats fine as the game is epic) then I'd really like a streamers mode that puts the scores on the LCD so I can save having to setup a camera to point at the LCD displays, yes they are cool but getting all 4 of them on camera for a tournament is really hard.
Neil.
3 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Aniraf:Great, where are the instructions? Where does the wire route? What is the best method for removing the side rails?
I’m sure I could figure it out by ripping this off the game, but for $120 I expected some instructions.
Take the screws out the side rails just come off. Align the roll so that it sits nicely and fills the letters. Replace the side rails. Feed the cable in at the back near the backbox. Stick the power adaptor inside the cabinet away from the amplifier and other cables. Boom. job done.
Cheers,
Neil.
Quoted from KingPinGames:did you recently update the code? if so, check the polarity of the 5v dc and ground plug that goes to the trough optos. it is possible that you need to flip the connector over to get the polarity right
thanks for replying - no code been running since Scott posted it, but I'll check that anyway. Its been doing it on and off for a while.
Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like?
Cheers,
Neil.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:thanks for replying - no code been running since Scott posted it, but I'll check that anyway. Its been doing it on and off for a while.
Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like?
Cheers,
Neil.
Answer my own question From an earlier post.
afe3378e19eb3b45fb331e9d3841eb5344cd0609 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from FatPanda:Scott, there have been times where I make a big move, and can hear the tilt bob swinging and making contact, but don't get the warning at that moment, but after a time (time enough for it to settle), the tilt warning occurs. Is this something that happens via software where the game has delayed response to switch hits? I also notice that the slings sometimes don't fire immediately when the switch makes contact, but fires a split second after the ball has bounced off of it. A similar situation perhaps?
I've seen that tilt issue on three different machines here in the UK.
Quoted from Whysnow:I think the "priority" of tilt is a bit delayed?
Not sure how to explain it, but test it with the door open and look at the time from actual switch closure till when the warning comes through.
not sure but in a tournament it really freaks people out, would be good to solve it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinden007:I think that depends. Some folks on here believe the issue is from game play and the ball banging into the posts - which very well may be. It's my belief that my issue was caused solely by faulty mylar (or whatever they used) around the posts. In the process of it pealing up, it lifted the paint around 1 post. That is the only post I plan on putting a washer on and that is just to protect against it eroding any more even though the ball never appears to roll over it.
Look to see if you have any mylar left around the posts or if it's in the process of pealing or is completely gone. That may determine if you should put anything down in it.
the issue is that Spooky had some problem with the play field - Charlie has stated that. It's not a mylar or play issue, its that the play-fields where not good enough. Spooky are stating to put these washers in so I encourage everyone to do that.
My washers arrived today thanks to Morgan at Spooky who knocked it our the park getting them to us here in the Uk.
But - I’ve PMed SpookyCharlie but I’m at a loss as to how these washers are going to help? Surely they just become the problem?
Also all the exposed star posts need them I’d have thought ?
Neil.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Found the logic issue on reactor 3 stalling out in the latest Beta code! I also think I tracked down the extra ball kicking out issue that only happens on a few machines.
New Beta code is up (v1.3.0.b10)! Just a friendly reminder, please keep in mind this beta version of the software is a work in progress and it may have some minor issues. If you install this and see any issues, please use the form at the bottom of the Beta Code Zone on my website to let me know what happened to the best of your knowledge. You can always revert back to the latest Production code if needed.
http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724
Thanks guys and gals!
--Scott
Scott would that issue be present in the present shipping code (1.2.1? I think?) I’ve been having extra balls been shot out and have swaped and replaced lots of parts because of it! If so is there a workaround whilst we wait for full code?
Thanks
Neil.
3 weeks later
Quoted from hisokajp:Since you are still refining an already very good code, we had a suggestion pop up during our SCS. One of the player display died during the middle of the game and we couldn't fix it physically. We had to stop the game because at no point the player scores show on the LCD.
Would it be possible to have players scores be part of game info as you trap a ball as a backup for a display issue for example?
I’d emailed Scott a while ago and asked for an option to put the scores on the LCjdisplay - I do a lot of streaming and I do direct output from the PC to my screaming rig to avoid a camera pointing at the screen but on TNA I still need another camera for the score. So I plead again please add a config mode to out the score on the screen
Neil.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:It's not all the games... but if you are even remotely concerned, YES! Email us, we'll send you the washers free of charge, and keep them safe.
[email protected] or [email protected]
SpookyCharlie how does one know if you have a game with this failing or not?
Cheers,
Neil.
Quoted from eemichael83:And there she sits! And it is sitting because holy crap is it heavy. After trying to get it up one step with a dolly, I decided it was better to have some professional movers come get it upstairs. So I'll have to wait another day or two before playing my first game
[quoted image]
if you think thats heavy, don't buy a JJP LOL.
1 month later
Quoted from FatPanda:fwiw, I didn't see any gameplay differences after I put the silicon washers down. Im just as disappointed about the chipping artwork as anyone else but, they are under the posts, and with the washers, it covers it so that you dont notice it without having to point it out.
You can talk about spending the money and expecting perfection etc or the tired cargument, but the fact is that it doesn't affect the gameplay and there are no real blemishes with the star posts and washers installed. Inserts arent ghosting, cabinet isnt splitting, node boards arent blowing, etc. Put the washers in, put mylar around your scoop hole and you should be good.
I'm not going to to hesitate buying from spooky in the future because of this.
indeed I'm hoping that's good enough.
Quoted from epthegeek:Did Stern come forward and explain the ghosting problem? Or what about the cabinet corners coming apart? Or what about JJP with their chipping clear? You have details on all of those things?
So Stern sent me a completely new populated playfield to replace my ghostbusters one. A friend had their cabinet replaced.
In my view the reason I want to know more is to be sure that the problem isn't going to get any worse. Eric- who are you working for these days?
Quoted from epthegeek:I wasn't trying to make a point about what's right and what isn't. Merely pointing out that no pinball manufacturer comes forward with details in cases of defects.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB189.pdf
Quoted from epthegeek:Spooky isn't big enough to be able to absorb sending people populated playfields when all the parts on it are still fine. They're a small boutique company, with minuscule production numbers compared to something like Stern.
This is a maintenance bulletin about something you can do to prevent future issues with hardware; those are semi-common throughout pinball history. Not at all the same thing as a "why are your playfields ghosting" and the other major defects.
Of course they are!
I would like the information to be sure that the problem isn't going to get any worse. I don't think that's unreasonable.
If I had the playfield replaced with a populated one then I wouldn't care as the problem is solved.
Note I'm in discussion with Charlie at this time about sorting this issue out.
Quoted from f3honda4me:Replacing balls, replacing rubber (actual rubber wears VERY quickly, something like titan rings lasts longer), fixing broken solder wires, replacing coils, etc are all maintenance items. I've had to do these on every pin I've owned, sometimes even in the first days of ownership (it happens). If a coil went bad within warranty period I'd probably contact the manufacturer or my distributor for a replacement. If I had an issue with a defective playfield and had to get a new PF, I'd expect to have to do the swap myself. Time consuming, but that is expected.
Sorry but I've heard it all now!
A home use pinball machine needing new rubbers with less than 500 plays on it? So those with games on location must change them every freaking week then!
How many folks have replaced a coil on a BNIB home use only pinball machine? I've bought 12 NIB games in the last year and a half and not had to do that to ANY game, nor have I replaced any rubbers!
Quoted from Whysnow:I WISH I had a location that saw even 500 plays in a month for a game!!!!!!!!
That said, as a hobby operator with over 50 games I help maintain on route for almost 6 years now... ALL I repeat ALL manufacturers have issues.
The vast majority of Sterns we have purchased have had ghosting, split cabs, blown boards and split runners fresh when opened (some even came with major issue out of the box). Actually had to replace a bad coil on MET within a week. Had to replace a bad coil on GOTG early on.
JJP games have had chipping, broken parts, incorrectly wired switches.
Spooky games have had broken springs, loose nuts, and minor chipping under posts (after literally thousands of plays).
Guess what, spooky has been the best service and IME, the most minor issues. It really is not even a comparison. I can try to dig up some of the pf issues for other manufacturers if I get the time... they aint pretty.
The fact that they do so with such a small budget and great attitude is amazing and a big part of the reason I like to support them.
why would you have a game on location that didn't?
I'm sure they all have problems, but my experience with Spooky vs the others doesn't align to yours.
5 months later
2 months later
2 months later
1 month later
Quoted from Cammy:We started streaming TNA for the first time the other day, but we didn't have a great way to capture the scoreboard, other than adding a third webcam.
So, I built a small program with pygame to display a live scoreboard!
The OBS window capture input displays the scoreboard on the stream. Scores are sent over the local network via a socket.
fantastic, it would be great if you could share this!!!
Neil.
TheNoTrashCougar
thank you for continuing to support TNA - Its two years to the day that I got mine.
TNA 102 Just off the container from Chicago!
TNA 102 nstalled in the DOMINO Arcade!
I stream this game a lot and feed the screen into the computer, whilst I love the LCD score displays they are not the simplest thing to steam. I wonder if you might consider a streamers mode that puts the score on the screen, realise this may be a big piece of work but it would be fantastic.
Got my R&M order in and looking forward to it when this freaking virus is beaten.
Stay Safe.
Cheers,
Neil.
IMG_8426 (resized).PNGIMG_8430 (resized).PNGQuoted from AndHart120:I’ve been playing the beta since last night. I like all the little changes to the light show! I changed multiball from green to blue and think it looks really great that way, especially with the pink protectors I have on the lower half. The one thing I noticed was that the main theme doesn’t “kick in” as fast as it used to when you put the ball in play. Otherwise looking good! I do miss the original “beep” a little bit.
I agree I preferred the previous version of the theme tune.
Installed this morning - TheNoTrashCougar a fantastic update ! Really positive, game feels a little
more snappy and more responsive, love all the changes! Thank you for continuing to add to what is already one of the best games out there!
1 week later
3 weeks later
Installed mine with Scott’s help! Huge thanks Scott. It’s really easy just need to think about it - no drilling required. I did it on my stream on twitch and the video is uploading to YouTube Search for neilmcrae. Also did the green protectors and IMO both are must have mods!
Thanks to pinballlife for getting the parts over to me in the UK in super quick time.
Quoted from McSquid:Weird request:
Anyone have a CAD file/drawing of a TNA playfield? I'm using a lot of the same parts (PBL) for my sonic homebrew's lower third but my spacing is all off. I COULD rip my TNA apart to measure it all, but if it already exists it would save me a ton of time. Maybe even thenotrashcougar? Can't hurt to ask I guess.
lol, yeah I can see Scott releasing that Get your tape out dood
Neil.
Quoted from WarLokBlackOut:Hi there. I've got mine TNA in our club house here in the Netherlands and it's used for play to everyone when we're open. Last December a player came to say a ball got stuck in the right scoop. Fast forward - in between loads of tests, hardware check, all software versions used, the works you may say - the found error is still there. And than to someone else who also has a TNA where the same happened. It is likely some of you may have the same. The tricky bit is that it may take ages before you notice, but it is certainly not impossible. What happened was that the aforementioned player came into multiball, got to hold balls and with another one made the drop target jackpots and the scoop super jackpot. He did that without making any other switch in between and after a number of times the ball in the scoop sits there, the rest of the game is fully working, but no return, not even in ball search. When you do a hard reset or start a new game, the ball is popped out instantly. Just to make sure it is not an isolated issue a request to you to try the following. Take the playfield glass of and have a ball ready. You don't need to start a game. Now manually drop the targets with the ball rolling to it and land it in the scoop. When everything is fine all three drop targets will be tripped and the ball is kicked out. Repeat this sequence. If you've done it ten times and the ball still comes out you're good. If however after a number of times (mostly the fifth time on my machine) the ball stays in and the only way to get it out is starting a game or a hard reset you may want to check it once more. Whatever the outcome please let me know. I will keep playing my game but we also like to use it in tournaments and than this error occurring would be a nuisance. Cheers from Holland, Ad Jonker
Hi Ad,
I'll give it a go on mine.
Neil.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Hi Ad,
I'll give it a go on mine.
Neil.
so i tried this and I could reproduce the issue but I get this on my screen
"RIGHT SCOOP ERROR CHECK DROPS / SCOOP"
So it looks like its a safety item that the code turns off ejecting the ball because it thinks a ball might be trapped and it will eventually cook the coil in the scoop.
TheNoTrashCougar Something maybe to add as an adjustment from a timing point of view? and on every third ball search also trigger the right scoop?
Cheers,
Neil.
3 months later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Here is some new beta code for those of you that want to give me a hand testing!
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724
########################################################################
v1.4.2 BETA - 09/12/2020 - Scott Danesi
## Bugs Fixed ##
-none
## Features Added / Modifications ##
- Scorbit functionality added
- Added service menu option to show scores on LCD -> Machine (Standard) -> Scores On LCD
- Added ability to turn off backbox LED during gameplay -> Machine (Standard) -> Backbox LED On During Game
########################################################################
Scott many thanks! really appreciate this feature!
1 month later
Quoted from RobF:Not mentioned was that the washers didn't stop the chipping and the damage had expanded.
This was always my main concern with this issue (across all the manufacturers).
Mental brave to do this as a swap though - whilst it looks like a simple game, its got a lot of coils and alot of lights!
Neil.
1 month later
Quoted from EasternBloc:Tech support on Christmas Eve? We haven’t met, but I owe you a beer.
Both PD-16s have the same consistent red leds on during gameplay and also when the power drops - no flickering leds at all. Also the power to the shaker dies when the flipper power dies, didn’t notice that earlier. Thank you cougar of zero trash.
had something similar; reseated fuses and all ok.
11 months later
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Hey Neil! You should replace your IDC connectors with the Trifurcon Crimp and Stuff connectors and housings for your trough optos.
4 Position Housings: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0328-00
2 Position Housings: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-crimp-stuff-2-position-housing-with-locking-ramp-17574.html
Trifurcon Pins: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html
Do this on both sides of the harness that runs to any opto in this machine and they will be much more reliable.
Also, check the Error Report in the service menu to see why the balls are being ejected non stop. My guess would be Jam opto being flaky, but it could also be the shooter lane switch not registering.
--Scott
Thanks Scott.
can someone help me with a wire issue please?
So in this image the first switch (closest to the plunge) on my game has a black wire coming off it that goes to nothing - I think its meant to goto the trough jam opto but its not obvious - can someone trace this and take a photo please?
many thanks,
Neil.
5 months later
1 year later
Quoted from SeikoKid:Hi,
I have posted elsewhere unknown and been directed here
New owner recently purchased 2.0 #206
Had the game for a few weeks, been playing almost every day and multiplayer at weekends mainly
Today playing 2 player and the game just went off halfway through
After some investigation work i found the 5/12v dc PSU at the bottom
rear left of the machine to have developed a fault
Before i replace this £25 unit i wanted to ask if anyone here would know what could have caused this to happen and if they know what had failed on the PSU
Just inside from where the main power input is ( 230v ) there is a component that has blown
thanks in advance [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I need to check but that looks like a well cheapo PSU compared to what was in my original TNA which was a MW PSU. I upgraded to the silent one that Scott recommended (its on the key posts).
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from punkin:Have you taken precisions back out of TNA?
No machine needs them, but they are all improved with them.
PerfectDoesn'tExistPunkin
I never put them in. The game is perfect as is. The only bit of precision that is good is the bushing - but TNA doesn’t need any more power in its flippers.
Quoted from punkin:Ahh, so you have no reference point and wouldn't know one way or the other.
Just making wild claims and denying others experience. Got it.
No such thing as perfect, the second law of Thermodynamics ensures that amongst other things.
First law of stupidity is assuming you know it all and then make broad assumptions. Got it now?
I’ve played a TNA with bigger flipper coils in it and it sucked. The game doesn’t need any more power. Keep things well maintained and out of the box it’s perfect. By your own admission with bozo flippers you are having to turn the power down, but hey it’s your game do what makes you happy.
1 week later
Quoted from mackey256:I Had my speakers stop during a game today. Sub was still working fine but the left and right speaker just stopped all of a sudden. I've had problems with my amp in the past but never speakers stopping completely. I pulled the amp and re soldered the speaker connections and it's working again. This post is more of an FYI for anyone who may encounter the same issue.
[quoted image]
thanks for sharing I believe someone else had the same issue in a previous post. Good to know its fixable.
2 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from SeikoKid:TheNoTrashCougar
Is there any chance you can decrease the time lag on the auto fire when you have ball drain when ball saver is active in either normal game play but especially in multiball please ?
I don't have any lag on my game - are your trough switches working right?
Quoted from SeikoKid:Everything seems ok - same now as it was when it was new, but the time it takes from when the ball drains and then be re fired is what i’m asking to be decreased
yeah, and it's an okay length on my TNA. Can you post a video?
Decreasing it for multiball seems risky, given the chance of ball lockups. The game is six years old I've had mine for five years, and this is the first time anyone is asking for this to be reduced; hence, I'm wondering if yours isn't playing right.
Quoted from SeikoKid:Compare this to stern, once the ball drains and it re issued it is almost immediately auto plunged back onto the playfield . With TNA it can take a few seconds for it become available and thus if you have 2 or 3 ball drain during mulitball towards the last 3/4 sec for example of your period there is a chance you will not get all 3 balls back
If I can get a vid at some point I will but if there is no option to reprogram or change the program, it is what it is and that's ok, but I just wanted to ask
something isn't working right with your game as my TNA is easily as quick as a Stern if not quicker.
Quoted from Stebel:Don’t think you need to bother with the mystery lock. The game is totally unusable in a tournament setting if there is lock stealing.
It’s the ultimate Friday nite game with friends. Lock stealing is too big an advantage in a tourney setting. More so than any of the mystery awards.
Nonsense. We've had TNA in the last three UK Open tournaments (top 10 WPPR event). In fact we had two this year! (I'm the TD).
Quoted from SeikoKid:Yeah, I guess they do but once you embrace TNA there is always more room for scoop power - Especially when you have precision flippers to fight it with
Ill just put them back to factory- thanks for the replyI will ask AJ - thank you
If there is a game that doesn't need precision flippers its TNA (although I really don't know of any game that needs them).
Neil.
Quoted from guitarded:You must not understand Physics.
It's ok. Not everyone has a brain for that sort of shit.
Surprisingly; you are correct. I took a physics elective and my brain said, enough of this boring shit; so I ended up more focused on mechanical engineering and maths. English was my other weakness but fortunately we have that in common.
Quoted from punkin:We don't need art, don't need toys, don't need mirror blades or art blades, don't need spotlights and lighting effects, don't need attract modes, don't need music, don't need callouts either.
All these things, including Precision flippers make the game more enjoyable for some people. Plus as a side benefit, they look good to some on the right games, they sound good and they perform well.
You should have stuck the physics out.
They take less energy, so produce less heat and less expansion in the mech making flipper fade a reduced effect.
We don't need them, but they make the game more enjoyable to play.
This is what I love about Pinside; PhD level experts everywhere you look. I mean who knew that Woolgoolga had such revered expertise! I also love your scientific comparison above!
My simple brain went to my advanced driving instruction teaching notes, we educate our driving students about how to brake and then all about horsepower and torque - horsepower is how fast you hit the tree (we teach at Nordschleife) and torque is how much of the tree you take with you. I know it’s not strictly the right physics terms (especially when we are really talking thermodynamics) and I think the formula I should be using is K.E. = 1/2 m v2 (sorry pinside doesn’t do formulae well. my simple brain struggles these days - but I remember this vaguely from Thermodynamics in course 5). I do remember my professor debating if thermodynamics was physics or chemistry and at my school it was taught by the chemistry faculty owing to the underlying particle changes but it was mandatory course work for both physics, chem and bio students, ah it takes me back - good times! When you apply this to nano technology it’s super exciting! 10-9th!
So before you make any more incorrect assumptions - having seen a lot of damage to a few games with the power “turned up” including TNA I’m more concerned with that impact rather than cooling which at-least with TNA I’ve never really felt the flippers where lacking although I’ve only got to reactor 7 (I don’t play with EB on).
I help run the UK’s busiest pinball location and my concern above, for the machine, was more around playfield impact. So I wonder if punkin or
guitarded could help my simple brain what power level they are running given they’ve turned down the power? Many of the folks I see installing precision flippers are doing it because it helps them play better (more of an illusion than reality) and they don’t turn the power down. (Also you might want to try just the bushing part of the precision flippers with regular flippers).
1 month later
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Howdy!
After five years of missing the heck out of this game I’m back in the club with a very nice original. Loving all the code enhancements!
Two questions:
1: The flippers are super droopy, which I kind of dig because it makes it nearly impossible to trap up and I can combo the living daylights out of the spinner… however I feel like my previous one was parallel with the guides. Which one is “correct”?
2: I’m getting some serious delay on the trough kicking out balls. This kind of eats up the ball save timer by a bunch of seconds, and also messes up multiball which is a bummer. Software is 1.5.0. Any tips?
Cheers!
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Welcome Mr Biscuits. Great looking line up with Flash Gordon and Seawitch, interestingly two classics I don't yet own.
2 months later
Quoted from AndyHancock:Recently purchased a TNA CE (2nd owner). I have to say it's an awesome game , right up my street .
Got to Reactor 4 earlier , got it critical , and had multiball running , and then it just died , flippers died and balls drained , like as if I'd tilted it , but no tilt shown on the screen so sure it wasn't . Also let me put my name in after ?
Anyone else has similar or knows what might be the issue ?
When ever you see an end of game you didn't expect or balls being kicked out then - I'd check all the connectors to the trough - they are typically press in connectors and they suck, swapping to proper connectors (search the thread) will make this go away.
Neil.
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