(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (6 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (6 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (6 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (6 years ago)

Post #1626 Speaker amp settings Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3588 5 years ago

TNA #431 has landed.

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#3638 5 years ago

I've emailed Spooky about this but thought I'd see if anyone here has seen this issue?

On the Ball Save countdown left numeric, when it counts down the numbers 4, 3 and 2 are missing segments. These same segments are lit for the other numbers though which seems odd?

The '4' is missing the top left segment. The '3' is missing the bottom segment and the '2' is missing the bottom segment.

When testing via the Test menu the following are not lit:

136 Shoot Again Segment 5 (A11-R51)
141 Shoot Again Segment 10 (A3-R75)
143 Shoot Again Segment 12 (A3-R77)

I've reseated the ribbon cable and swapped the 2 over, the issue stays with the left numeric.

Video of the issue -

#3641 5 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I had a similar issue. They told me to make sure both ends of the cable were seated securely. When I checked my cable was loose. I pushed it in all the way and the problem was fixed.

I checked both ends and even swapped the 2 serial cables over, the problem stayed on the left so sounds like a dodgy light board.

1 week later
#3743 5 years ago
Quoted from KingKool:

I'm having issues with the ball leaping off the playing field at speed. The ball has drained a few times after leaping over the lanes.
Anyone else having this and can advise what can be done to alleviate it?

Haven't seen that on mine either. How steep is your playfield?

4 weeks later
#3917 5 years ago
Quoted from rai:

My tilt is super sensitive even tho its on the lowest setting possible, is there a trick to making it bit less sensitive? I have the back legs pretty high up so the game is on an angle making the front of the bob very close to the circle.

You can rotate the striking circle so it sits horizontal, and you can also slide it front to back so you should be able to get the tilt bob dead centre.

2 weeks later
#4242 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

Too cool of a sticker to go to waste!

Was the sticker easy to separate from the cardboard? I cut mine out with the card attached but haven't decided what to do with them yet.

2 months later
#4871 5 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Does anyone have a nice closeup picture of some clear silicone washers under their star posts?

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2 months later
#5307 4 years ago

I installed these same washers a few months ago and can't see any issues with my star posts.

1 month later
#5468 4 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

I know this has been asked a million times but whats the right clear washers that wont react with my star posts and cause them to break down

The clear rubber ones from Amazon seem to make the starposts deteriorate over time as has happened to many people who have used them, mine included. I've ended up using the black rubber ones Spooky sent me. They are also slightly thinner than the clear ones so shouldn't affect your slings (leaf switch popping out due to increased height).

Spooky also initially sent me clear plastic ones. I haven't used them as I feel rubber has less chance of causing further playfield damage than plastic.

1 month later
#5688 4 years ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

Here you go - this is how my amp was set from the factory. Apologies for the vantage point, as that's as close/low as I could get my phone for the picture.
[quoted image]
HTH.

Does Spooky set the amp to its optimum from the factory? Mine wasn't great when it arrived, in that moving the volume a fraction would make too large a change. There are some instructions somewhere in this thread for optimising the sound. From memory it involves adjusting the volume of the screen as well as the amp. Made a big improvement to mine.

Just found this that Scott posted which I remember following, although he does say at the end "don't mess with the amp"!

"Also there was a question about the audio. The monitor does have a pre-amp volume setting in it. I have been playing around a bunch with mine and I turned it down to 10 on the monitor which seemed to give it a better range. I then turn my amp all the way down to prepare for adjustment. Then go into music test with the volume up to 11 and start slowly turning the amp up to where it is loud, but not clipping or cutting out. The sub volume knob will be pretty low. Also, the Bass knob should be almost all the way down as that is for the upper speakers, those should be set to output all of the mids and highs.

Honestly, though, don't mess with the amp from the factory settings as it is tough to tune, which is why it is hidden away."

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