Price Check Request and NIB Availability Inquiry:

I'm interested in finding a HUO TNA. It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss? Does this game in stock trim now routinely bring as much as $6K? What did it cost new in 2017?

Is TNA available NIB from any distributors at this late date or did Spooky last have this game on the line years ago and NIB examples are now unheard of? I know Stern will often do runs of old games to meet demand (or to use up extra parts!). Did Spooky ever do this for TNA? I assume there's no license to renew so Charlie can run it whenever the spirit moves him.

Thanks in advance for the group's insight.

I know this topic comes up now and then, but is there any consensus as to when Spooky is likely to do another run of TNA? If they wait until they are entirely done with Halloween (Late 2022), will there still be enough interest in TNA to justify another run? Is there a "window of opportunity" that they would do well to pay attention to? I can remember when HUO TNA's could be had for $5500. Now they seem to command mid-sevens and up. I'm interested in the game and would like to find one, but they are harder to find than even the average Stern LE - and no less expensive in some cases! Oof!

Stock TNA speaker lights: do they compare to SpeakerLights.com kits?

I don't have a TNA in front of me, but I have a deal for one in motion and I'm already poking around on this thread to learn more about the owners' experience and to get ideas for upgrades/enhancements/mods.

I'm told the speaker lights in this game are installed at the factory. Do they have any variability? Can they be set to one of several "patterns"? Can they be set to respond to the music like an EQ?

I have some experience with the Deluxe 5.25" speaker light kit from SpeakerLights.com and wonder if the stock lights are basically the same thing or if they are noticeably inferior. What do you owners think of your stock lights?

Thanks.

What kind of bulbs are in the stock TNA general-illumination?

Are they all 2SMD frosted cool-white? Are they rebranded Cointaker or Comet bulbs, or are they something Spooky brings in from China as a "house brand"? Could they be clear-lensed and *not* frosted?

Thanks.

Please steer me to the post number in this thread that tackles making custom sound code for TNA.

(If this kind of customization is actually *not* something P-ROC games actually support, I would like to know that, too, obviously.)

I would like to know how involved this process is. I would like to know if it's similar to how I have used Pinball Browser to change sound/music on SAM and SPIKE II games from Stern.

** Update: **

Found this post on the Pinball Browser thread, so it looks like the process *is* similar to that used for Stern games. Sweet!

Thanks.

Screenshot (60) (resized).png

Thanks, Trilogy. Very helpful! It looks like there really is no way to customize the GI or inserts in this game. They use these trick little assemblies throughout and *not* bulbs/sockets! Got it.

Also helpful. Thanks, BorgDog!

Beacon bulb: what is it and can it be replaced?

I'm sure you're thinking at this point that I'm bent on customizing everything in this game, but that's not really my plan. I just put a lot of stock in the GI/insert lighting on games and strive to maximize it however I can - usually by upgrading to superior bulbs. Does the beacon use an "RGB assembly" just like the GI/inserts, or does it have a fairly standard white LED?

Thanks.

PinMonk's Quiet-Fan mod: is it recommended for TNA?

I put one of these quiet fans in a Stern SPIKE II game and was glad I did.

Is the power supply on Spooky games similarly noisy and thus would benefit from this mod?

Thanks.

Also very helpful. Thanks!

Good to know. Thanks, Morinack.

May I ask which fan you purchased? It may not be available any longer if it was a while ago. Do you recall its specs?

Thanks!

DIY quiet fans:

Searching this thread for "quiet fan" turns up a few DIY installations. One, from BorgDog, references a fan still available on Amazon. Did this fan work out well for you, BorgDog? Would you recommend I install one, too?

Thanks.

Screenshot (61) (resized).png

Cool! Seller told me his game does *not* have the quiet fan as far as he is aware.
I'm down to try this Amazon fan, but the three-wire/two-wire gives me pause. Is using the three-wire harness as simple as cutting off the additional wire and then soldering the connector from the stock fan to the replacement fan's harness? I don't mind supporting PinMonk, but I also like saving money and would tackle this project if it's not too demanding. My soldering skills aren't bad.

I haven't one to part with, no, but I'm curious: why do you need the Butter cabinet? By stipulating Butter, you lower your odds of scoring a TNA considerably, no? Or am I mistaken and the majority of TNA's were ordered with the Butter cabinet?

Lifetime plays count on P3-ROC games?

Please tell me if the lifetime plays count in the audits on TNA is reset when a code update is done or if - like Stern's SPIKE II - the tally is absolute and is *not* reset with an update.

Thanks!

Thanks, Eric! Super helpful!

Ooh! That looks dope! Love it!

I seem to be drawing the ire of this group by daring to even propose a customization of the sound on this game. I do like it well enough. I just happen to really enjoy using Pinball Browser to customize my games if I can. It's fun.

Please tell us how you lit these frosted/clear drop targets. I'm assuming you light them from below. Did you mount three sockets nearby on the underside of the PF or did you perhaps use on long 6V strip light? And how did you power these sockets/strip? Can you tie into the GI using Comet's Matrix system to power additional bulbs? Oh, and are TNA's drop targets the Williams type and what is a source for replacement target decals?

Thanks!

Thanks for the links re: the lighted drops, Eric.

Okay. Eric steered me to Scott's instructions.
Awesome!
Looking at RazorsEdge install of his lighted drops, however, I'm seeing a discrete bracket that holds the LED parallel to the target. Who makes/sells these brackets? Scott's instructions simply say to mount the LED assembly "pointing up" using just that #6 x 3/8" machine screw. If the bracket is used, I'm quite sure a longer machine screw would be necessary. Are the brackets the new standard for this install or they unique to RazorsEdge in Australia? I s'pose I could ask him.

RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.

If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.

1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html

Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.

TNA.lighted.drops.mounting.bracket (resized).jpg

Powerballs:

I recently owned a TZ. I spent a lot of time shopping it. Also dialing it. I didn't actually play it all that much. The Powerball was crazy. I mean, if I didnt' trap up ASAP and shoot the Powerball up the right orbit and into the Gumball Machine to start Powerball Mania, I would drain basically every time. The instant that Powerball was out of control, it would disappear into an outlane or SDTM. It wasn't all the fun frankly. I bought a backup Powerball from Bay Area Amusements just to have, so, coincidentally, I'm ready to add one to TNA when it arrives. However, I plan to leave the Powerball in the little bag it came in for the time being and *not* add it to my TNA. I leave that to all you masochists.

Well, I'm not exactly a mod slave. Thanks for the advice though. I have no pins. TNA is weeks out as it will be in transit for a while. In the meantime, I am excited but have no outlet other than to read this thread and explore mods/upgrades and parts for shopping the game. I would like to have some parts on hand, ready go, when the game arrives.

Game Parts: "Work in Progress"?

I was excited to discover the "full manual" for TNA on Spooky's website, but, sadly, the game parts section is empty and reads, simply, "Work in Progress."

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ricu8s-UklPXgGYDM3aA3M66q_yhNqt4/view

Someone please confirm if the PBL sling parts linked below are the correct ones for TNA. I would like to rebuild the slings on the lower PF and within the reactor. It may not be necessary to replace the plungers, but I will likely at least replace the links to snug up the action of the arms, and of course I'll replace the sleeves.

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-34-coil-sleeve.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-plunger-and-link-2-plunger.html

I'm going to rebuild the flippers, too. Sleeves, plungers/links, stops, bushings. I assume those parts are standard Williams.

Also a new shooter-rod bushing and tip.

You probably think I'm determined to spend money. Not really. I just want the game to play to its potential right out of the chute.

Thanks. I don't have a 3-D printer and can't take advantage of this shared file though.

Cool. Thanks.

Hmm. That's a good idea. Take advantage of that remaining LED! Your game looks dope.

Does anyone know of a plastics protector set in clear rather than neon green or neon pink?

I think the colored protectors are too much. The distinct, lit edge is sort of cool, but also sort of weird/distracting. The colored protectors also change the hue of the colors in the plastics - and not for better. I've installed many sets of protectors on many games and always clear, but I'm only seeing neon green, purple, and neon pink for TNA.

Thanks.

Thanks, Eric. Very helpful!
You have the dichromatic setup! Sweet!
I will have to dig around for a clear set - perhaps direct from Spooky.

Source for white post sleeves?

The manual calls for "thin," Stern-type post sleeves. They look fly in white on this game.

I see Titan and Perfect-Play do make them in thin white. Is that what owners are using?

Just curious.

White.post.sleeves.cropped (resized).jpg

Source for Star Post Washers?

Reading through this thread is a bit sobering when you see all the photos of chipped clearcoat beneath star posts. I would like to install washers beneath my star posts but I would prefer them be thin/discrete and not much wider than the base of the post. Can someone please recommend a source for such washers?

Thanks.

Interesting. You have pink, not purple, flipper rubber? Wild!

Thanks. Found 'em!

I had no idea the art was adjusted on TNA the way it was on, say, JP from Stern.

Which TNA plastics are the most vulnerable?

Just wondering which plastics are most in need of protection on TNA. Many of TNA's plastics are quite large. If just one side of any of those very large plastics is a high-impact zone, I guess you're stuck with the giant protector.

I'm going to have an abbreviated set of clear protectors made. I will ask him to make protectors for the slings and the flipper-lane guides, but what other plastics are known to crack on this layout?

Thanks!

Is this a veiled answer?
Are you insinuating that *no* plastic on this game is in fact vulnerable enough to warrant a protector? Not the slings? Not the flipper lanes? I s'pose I will put between 400 and 700 plays on this game - unless it's way too hard for me.

Cabinet Height?

Just how low does the TNA cabinet stand?
I'm told TNA's cabinet is uniquely shallow, top to bottom, owing to the fact that the glass sits much nearer the playfield than it does on modern, ramp-endowed games, etc.
If the cabinet is shallower, do the legs mount lower on the cabinet to compensate? Are TNA's legs longer?
If Spooky uses off-the-shelf Williams parts where it can, does that include legs? A Williams leg is 28.5". Add that to a shallower cabinet and that should mean the glass sits and inch or two lower in space than average. Does it?
While we're talking about legs, please tell me what color/coating is on the legs of TNA. Is it wrinkle battleship gray? Is it not truly black?

I don't mean to harp on this but I set up my pinballs fairly tall as I am a tall'ish person. I'm wondering if I will be better off standing the cabinet on a set of Stern legs (30.5") instead.

Thanks.

I found your old post. It looks like the Stern legs are in order. I would rather not stoop to play. Thanks for posting that helpful photo.

I didn't mean to disparage your design. I just saw Stroh's old post with TNA in his lineup looking co-planar with its neighbors but only with Stern cabinet legs, so I thought I would go in that direction. Got it: TNA's lockdown bar is no lower than the lockdown bar on any other Spooky pinball, but perhaps it's still lower than those of Stern or B/W pins, which are what I'm used to. I figure a set of wrinkle-black Stern legs won't disturb the aesthetic of TNA but it will give my back a welcome rest.

I apologize for making a nuisance of myself regarding a game I don't even have in my possession, but, as I wrote, I'm excited and I have no other pins to distract me while I wait for TNA to arrive. It was only just picked up at the seller's yesterday. I don't expect to have it until late next week at the soonest.

Unusual Scoop:

I've never studied the main scoop mech on TNA, but I have a photo of the underside of the playfield and I'm noticing that the scoop is a bit more involved than your typical scoop. I mean, ordinarily a scooped ball is ejected with the tip of a plunger, actuated by a solenoid, etc., but TNA's main scoop appears to employ a crank like a flipper. I can't quite read the coil number, but it looks like a flipper coil. Does this explain the oomph of the ejection? I'm very curious to study that mech in person. I recently had a TZ and the Slot Machine Scoop was a bit of a bear. It was very unreliable. It would fire the ball in any of a few different trajectories, with varying intensities, perhaps owing to how often the plunger tip would glance off the ball's equator rather than connect squarely, etc. Is TNA's main scoop unique in this regard? Is it uniquely ornery? Is it a pioneering use of a flipper coil and crank to eject a ball?

How did this go? I would like to see the archive. Did you post one? If so, link, please. Thanks.

Oops! Perhaps the link is right under my nose!

Pin Stadiums, anyone?

I'm just curious if anyone has/enjoys Pin Stadiums in his/her TNA.
I just watched the speed run stream and thought, gee, if only this game were easier to see!
I'm well aware that TNA has a legendary light show, but light shows and playfield illumination aren't the same thing. Does this playfield benefit from Pin Stadiums?

Is this the stock, white pop-bumper cap for TNA?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7444-W

It's the only plain white cap I could find, but the description reads, "for smaller pop bumper bodies."

Can't Seat Coinbox in Cabinet:

Do I have it oriented right?
Also seem to be missing cabinet loop for the hair clip.
Are Spooky coinboxes unusual and I in fact have a Williams box or cover?

4E73F5A4-05E1-443B-ADF7-3AFD16F4A2E6 (resized).jpeg61A7EFDE-3A8D-44FD-8EB1-A53EBEA3F679 (resized).jpegCE2F994B-8B2B-42FF-8E2D-B5822B64228C (resized).jpeg

Tried both ways.
Still won't nest normally.
Coin door has coin mechs.
Cabinet has no loop.
I'm confused.
Haven't even plugged the game in.
Busy installing post-protector washers.
Also waiting for Cliffys.

I wish. I've tried all orientations of lid and bottom and the thing won't sit properly in the cabinet. It certainly wouldn't stay in position if the game were to be transported. I think it's weird that this game was ordered with coin mechs but no loop was installed in the cabinet to secure the coinbox.

I realize that, but to me a coinbox, if included, should be securable. It's as though Spooky tossed the coinbox in there because the customer had ordered the coin mechs, but then didn't think to truly install the coinbox in the cabinet.

Did this happen during gameplay? I s'pose this would be impossible with a Cliffy.

Hmm. That sounds unacceptable. Clearly! I'm discouraged. Here I am waiting dutifully for my own Cliffy and I may end up installing it and then taking it out soon after!

Ah! A rebel! I'm heartened to hear that a TNA owner dares to supplement the playfield lighting. I may try a set, too. Pin Stadiums can be attenuated all the way down to just 10%. At that level I don' foresee them "washing out" the hard-won lighting effects.

That's a helpful clip. Thanks! Your TNA is pink, all right! Whoa! Kind of refreshing to see a set of pink protectors when the green are so common.
Also, you seem to have filled your finished basement with pins. Like, you've squeezed them into *all* the rooms! Fun! Maybe your neighbors complain less with your uber-amplified pins below ground level. Good thinking!
One more thing:
You say you disabled your cabinet's sub and are using a floor-standing powered sub' instead. How challenging was it to wire that configuration? Is there a sub'-out jack on the game's audio board?

Thanks for the photos.
Even if oriented correctly, my coinbox is far from "settled" in the cabinet. I won't sweat it. Based on the terrible fit I just assumed this wasn't normal and I somehow had the wrong coinbox, but evidently I *do* have a standard Spooky coinbox and somehow the cabinet engineers gave little thought to how to nest a coinbox properly/securely in a cabinet. Whatever.
This is my first Spooky purchase.
I'm learning about the Spooky way of manufacturing. I'm learning that, when you don't huge revenues, a big facility, or a large, trained workforce, you might not dot all your "I's" or cross all your "T's." No worries. I can roll with it.

That sounds promising'ish. I should ask Cliff about this. He would like to hear the feedback.

Thanks. That's helpful.

Wanted: image files for TNA apron cards

I accidentally mangled my "Instructions" apron card in a lamination mishap.
Hoping to replace it. Wondering if the file has circulated and could be forwarded to me.
I don't have a color printer, but I'm assuming I can load the file onto a thumb drive and take it to a cooy shop, etc.

Please tell me the Scott-advised playfield pitch of TNA.
I have the game set to an average of 6.5 degrees and somehow the ball acts "heavy."
I realize this is a retro layout so perhaps 6 degrees - or less - is best.
Thinking I have it wrong as the release of the Ball-Lock sends balls SDTM, despite a dead-level playfield.
Thanks.

How to tame hair-trigger slings?

I'm getting a lot of errant sling fires.
Vibration caused by a legit/provoked fire will trigger a neighboring sling.
This happens in the main left- and right slings and in the Reactor.
Is the answer to progressively bend the "receiver" contact away until the switch is tamed or must I also bend the leading tang away to make it resist the rubber ring more?
The photo shows my gap with the ring installed.
Thanks.

1032DC73-6078-4D7D-8849-47E927421BFD (resized).jpeg

B1123B0A-BABA-4515-847B-36BBEDEA947C (resized).jpeg

Hi. Thanks for your response.
In switch test I can't get the switches to close by creating vibration.
I believe I've figured out what the misbehavior is though.
The slings are chattering. By that I mean they are not firing and then coming to rest. The sling fires, and then the sling rubber snaps back *beyond* the resting position and closes the switch a second time, creating a stutter fire. It's weird. I have 2.5" silicone rings on there but I will have to try a pair in 2.25" instead to see if the extra tension doesn't control that stutter.

Can this P-ROC LED harness be used to power RGB LED's elsewhere on the PF? I know it can be used for the lit drops mod, but how many available connectors are there for these harnesses if I want to add an RGB LED board here/there? We know there is one controller board with an available connector near the drops. Is that the only lamp controller board in the game? Is it possible to daisy chain these harnesses to power more than four LED's per given connector? I don't intend to go crazy, but I have the parts for the lit drops mod and I thought it would be nice to ad a few other RGB LED's in certain spots on the PF while I'm at it.

PROC.harness (resized).jpg

Very helpful. Thanks. I should have known to look here. I've already been here in search of the service manual.

Also helpful. Thanks. I repitched my game to 6.9 degrees but the ball release is still an exodus down the drain. Not sure what I will do next. I'm not much of a slap saver.

Flipper Hold Boost:

What's your setting?

I was confused by this setting when I came upon it in the service menu, but after lowering it as an experiment, I learned that it sets the rigidity of the flipper in the raised position. At a low setting, the ball flung from the left scoop will mash the flipper down if you're late on a live catch, etc. I'm assuming full boost is the only setting that duplicates a traditional solenoid from the B/W days. When I first felt the low-boost setting, I thought for a second that there was a spring involved to protect the flipper bat from excessive stress. A kind of clutch, if you will. What setting is working for you?

Lit Drops: RGB or Straight White?

I just finished the somewhat challenging installation of the lit drops mod.
I've never seen this mod in person before, so I was surprised that mine aren't cycling through the RGB but are instead straight white. Additionally, the LED's don't join the others in the attract dance. They are simply on, continuously.
I double checked my wiring, but perhaps I still have it wrong. I used the only available connector on the LED board a foot away on the right. The 24" harness provided barely enough length to reach the LED for the last target. I bought all the parts from Pinball Life and selected them to match the list provided on this thread.

Thanks.

C950DD7E-D880-4E1F-91EB-CD391D33936D (resized).jpeg

Thanks!

59374C7E-0D9D-4475-BC3F-612E2E17F81E (resized).jpeg

Multiball Light-Show Color Selection:

What's your color?
I think the teal is great!
TNA's light show is so sweet!

My slings are still giving me trouble.
Their switches are closing when they shouldn't.
The slings fire when the ball is nowhere near them. I can't possibly gap them any tighter as that will only make things worse. I tried using 2.5" rubber rings rather than silicone but that didn't help.
LTG pointed out how the leaves were oddly bent, so I took the switches out and carefully straightened the leaves. The leaves are a very thin/flimsy gauge of copper. I realize they should be more flexible than, say, those of an EOS switch, but they're so flexible that gameplay vibrations are closing them much too often.
My worry is that if I buy replacements from Pinball Life, they will end up being the same switches.
Any ideas?
Thanks.

Thanks for asking. See post #8162 above.

I theorized this myself. The return stroke of the ring is firing the sling a second time.
I replaced all the rings with Perfect Play silicone rings from Pinball Life. I then reverted to rubber to test but nothing changed. The slings are 2.5", as spec'd by the game's documentation. I have this same issue for the slings in the Reactor. Those are the spec 2.0".

I'm heartened to hear I'm not the only one!

A credit card? Oh, shite! My gap is 1/8" easily. Anything less than that and the slings fire all the time.

This might be the crux of it right here. I often buy games and when I first remove the sling rubbers to shop it I'm surprised to see the first contact in the switch bent far forward. Perhaps that pronounced bend is key. Perhaps it helps thwart the rebound fire. When I said I straightened my leaves, I really made both leaves straight, just gapped. Perhaps that was a mistake.

Thanks for your input. I think I will still buy new switches. Mine have such flimsy leaves.

Don't see any shorting further down the leaves.
Gaps still big, slings still kicking randomly/often.
Hard to play the game as they're just going berserk all the time.
They will often fire when a ball strikes the top corner of the sling, or when I simply attempt to cradle a ball.
I'm starting to think there's a short or loose connection somewhere.
I didn't play this game before I bought it. It was shipped here.
The seller made no mention of hyperactive slings. I'm confused/concerned.
0E761BAA-A3C0-4D5F-AA1C-DC6DBEDE7B5A (resized).jpeg4EF2F1F1-86E0-4581-9459-B57017C8A68E (resized).jpeg95912E92-34FA-437A-94D9-0B218DD84EB9 (resized).jpeg

I already pulled all the switches to inspect/straighten them.
Then I pulled them a second time to impart a bend to the forward contact (to resist the ring on the return stroke), but that didn't help.
Visual inspection of underside of PF reveals nothing - to my untrained eye anyway.
Thanks for your input.

Bonjour, Saquapuss.
Contactez Morgan a Spooky Pinball.
815-541-0054
[email protected]
Felicitations pour votre nouvelle machine!
La musique et le spectacle de lumière sont fantastiques!

I guess I would ask Morgan at Spooky if they use a glue that could be dissolved with a citrus-based solvent (Goo-Gone, say). The thing about using a solvent though is that you're introducing water to wood. Yeah, your cabinet interior is painted, but with just a single coat of satin black. If you skip the solvent and just start peeling, you risk peeling away the paint in spots - which may not matter to you as you plan to cover it with mirror blades. At least then you won't have introduced any water to the wood.

As for blades, TNA's mirror blades are small and *may* be unique to TNA. However, if TNA's cabinet is the same *length* as a standard cabinet, I don't see why a set made for a standard Williams cabinet wouldn't work. Those are available from a few sources. I mean, the hole for the hinge and the cutout for the flipper button should still line up. The only difference will be that much of the blade will sit below the PF, but what could that matter? (Don't quote me on that!) I s'pose you could ask Scott what cabinet he used to make his white wood and then shop for a set of mirrors that are right for it, etc. Contact the makers of the mirrors and ask them what they have done for customers with SS/rampless games who asked for mirrors. Scott, too, will probably have some answers for you. Hopefully he will chime in.

Good to know. Truly, it seemed harebrained to me, too, but I was willing to try anything at that point.

I'm aware of that. I believe I thanked him for his input. May I ask what gave you the impression that I wasn't aware or wasn't grateful?

Believe me, I adjusted them in various ways from below before I removed them. Thanks though.

Wanted: Plastic Protector for the "Lock" Plastic

My game came with a set of plastics protectors, excluding the very large one for the lock.

I realize some of you like to mix/match your protector sets - pink above, green below, clear here/there, etc.
Is there anyone out there who has an extra Lock protector in whatever color? I will pay you a fair sum for it, naturally.

Thanks.

Lazy Gate:

My right-hand orbit gate is lying down on the job. It doesn't consistently return to the "down" position after actuation, nor does it open consistently. A shot to the spinner that should reach the rollovers often just sails under the gate. Fortunately I can compare it to its complement on the other side. Still not sure what is amiss though. Oddly, the spring that links the gate to the solenoid seems slack. Is it common for these gates to act up? Do owners replace them or tweak them back into shape?
Thanks.

0CEFE0EE-E26C-4FAE-8DBE-7BBE751B4079 (resized).jpeg

AF1D0367-7E4A-4A7C-92A4-0F48565CE53D (resized).jpeg

Thanks.
I'm well aware that these are controlled gates. Each has a solenoid. I believe I mentioned that. Gates will either open and allow a full orbit or close on either side to capture the ball for a rollover down into the reactor. My gates aren't actuating properly. They don't quite open and don't quite close.
They try to open but do so unreliably. Often an (allowed/coded) orbit will hit the edge of gate because it hasn't opened fully.
In test, they flick the tiniest bit. They do *not* open, but solenoids don't behave in test as they do in gameplay in some circumstances. The solenoid in this case is the relay type, like the shooter-lane diverter in TZ.

Looks like Pinball Life sells the gates:

https://www.pinballlife.com/controlled-ball-gate-assembly-right.html

Not keen to spend $20 for a new gate, but the mechanism is very delicate. If the gate takes an airball, its delicate action can become disturbed thereafter apparently. I took mine out and looked it over. IT seemed fine. I lubed it with graphite and worked it a few dozen times, then put it back in. Still slightly hesitant to return to the down position. Replace?
Solenoids meter 12VDC. Is this appropriate for a relay coil of this kind?
Confused because similar relay coils used on the drops meter 49VDC.
Coils are the same - 26-600.
How can one need 12V and the other 49V?
Where online are the wiring schematics for TNA?
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Lit Drops: Fourth Connector Functionality?

To those of you who have installed an extra LED harness to power the RGB LED's in your lit drops, who among you using the fourth connector from the harness? (The first three are of course used to light the drops.) I just tried to connect a LED to mine but there is no power there. I tried a second LED just to be sure, but it too won't work at that connector. I see Scott coded the first three connectors in that harness for his light show, but did he just leave out the fourth one? I was hoping I could make use of it as I have some extra RGB LED's.

Thanks.

Thanks, but you have power at your fourth connector. I have not. I've tried flipping the LED. No luck. I can't imagine there's a defect in the harness or the LED, but perhaps my two spare LED's are dead.

Fine. I just got confused metering different voltages to coils of the same spec.

The right gate will not return to the closed position when I actuate it via the little wire on which the spring is hooked. If I put the PF in the service position and reach around and below, behind the back panel, and actuate the relay coil mech manually, again the switch doesn't return to the closed position reliably. Oddly, the left gate - which doesn't open enough to let balls from the right orbit past without touching them - actuates normally and returns to the down position reliably. The left gate behaves like it needs a *slightly* shorter spring to open properly.

The spring on the right gate is a little weird. It's almost like it's hanging up on the bore in the gate's frame. There's friction there.

I'm not with you. Please elaborate.

Thanks for your response.

Thank you. That's helpful! I will re-install and check.

Today I got my first Add-a-Balls.
That lock lane is a hard thing to focus on during MB, but I finally put a ball in the scoop!
Great use of three drops and a scoop!

Why do TNA's flippers feel so "slammy" compared to those of R&M?
TNA's are like little cannons by comparison, despite turning them down to 24.
R&M's are quiter somehow, more B/W'esque.

Oh, yeah?
More winds, higher resistance, lower power.
Confusing.