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Does anyone have the measurements on a folded up TNA? I'm trying to figure out if I can fit this in my hatchback. I'm positive it'll fit with the head off but I'm trying to gauge if it might fit in as a whole.

If someone could help me out with these measurements I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

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So, if I have the light rails, speaker lights, shaker and knocker will I need the accessory power supply?

Question for the guys that have the Hooked on Pinball light rail strips. I have the rail removed from the cabinet but I don’t quite understand how to position the EL strip so that the screws don’t puncture through the strip when I reinstall the rails. Any tips on the install of this mod?

Also, I connect to power at the J10 48v high output board correct?

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Thanks pickleric ! Installed and looking great.

#189 is home and playing brutal as expected. What an addicting game!

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The light strips plug into the supplied power brick. The brick then plugs into J10.

vwallat99 The brick is the EL Inverter. It looks like this. Mine came tucked inside a drink coozie.

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haha! I most certainly am. Stop by and play it if you're ever in the area!

Is there a way to reset all the high scores without doing a full factory reset? I’m not seeing it in the menu. Am I blind?

So, will I lose all my audits if I do a factory reset? Or are just the settings and high scores reset with a factory reset?

If I did a factory reset, would that clear all my audits or just the settings and high scores?

My drop target 1 recently started dropping on its own. It happens about once every game at this point. Where do I start diagnosing this?

I ran a drop test for 10 cycles. Here are the results.

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My game randomly didn't boot one day. Here's what Spooky had me do. It fixed my booting problem. I'm guessing the shaker motor vibrated my HDMI cable loose.

"Check the hdmi cable that goes from the cpu to the display. If the cable isn't seated properly and firmly, the game will not boot.
If the cable is good, then let me know what (if any) leds are present and lit on the cpu board."

This was happening with mine when I first got it. The problem ended up being that some solder had bridged a couple of the chip legs. Once I removed the extra solder the display worked fine. Take a close look at your solder connections for messy or missing solder.

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I’ve had my slings lock for a second on a couple occasions with the newest code. Never had it happen before. My sling switches are very sensitive so I assume that’s because of your new logic.

I did have 2 balls served into the shooter lane last night. That has never happened before.

Thanks for all your hard work, Scott!

Does anyone have a nice closeup picture of some clear silicone washers under their star posts?

I bent my scoop hood forward and it helped a lot. Just make sure you don't bend it too far forward or else balls will get stuck when exiting the reactor into the scoop.

I always found it a bit hard to see how far I was pulling the plunger for those critical skill shots (I prefer to play my games in the dark). I replaced the black shooter tip with white and put a yellow piece of vinyl under the dashes. Also spiced up the bottom portion with a nuclear symbol. I like how it turned out.

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I made it with my vinyl cutter.

These are what you need. I always keep a few extras on hand. These thin post sleeves get beat up pretty quickly with the abuse TNA gives them.

https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-thin-stern-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html

It's a way to sync Phillips HUE lights to the beacon on TNA. I would LOVE to do this with my HUE bulbs. Unfortunately I think the process of building and coding this is over my head. It would be awesome if somebody would put a nice package of this together to sell. **hint hint**

Loving that TNA code is getting some love lately! Question, if I install the beta code will I lose my audits?

I streamed the new code last night for the first time and think I ran across a possible multiball start bug. I clipped it here so you can check it out and see what you think. When I locked my second ball it automatically went into multiball. Then it lost track of how many balls were in play once I drained a couple balls and ended my turn. Also, I love the changes to the light shows! Thanks again Scott for this awesome game.

https://www.twitch.tv/probethestreets/clip/MoldySpineyBottleHeyGirl?filter=clips&range=7d&sort=time

On a side note....Twitch sure has a strange way of naming links. lol

I’ll be sure to check out my opto connections tomorrow. Thanks, Scott!

P.S. great additions to the mystery award list.

Check your sound amp in the bottom of your cabinet. Specifically the output wire (standard headphone jack). Wiggle it around and see if the sound changes. In my case, I had to disassemble the amp and fix a cold solder joint on the output. This wasn't anything to do with Spookys quality, but the manufacturer of the amp itself. I've had perfect sound since fixing that cold solder joint months ago.

Mine was doing this exact same thing. The problem was a bad solder joint inside the amplifier where the 3.5mm plugs in. I took apart the amplifier, resoldered and haven’t had the problem since.

I recall seeing somewhere in this thread that you can put an RGB LED strip on the back of your backbox that mimics the color changing speaker lights. What parts does it take to do this? Is it as simple as tapping an RGB LED strip into the speaker light LED connection?

Thanks! Just ordered the parts needed including the accessory power supply from PinballLife. Should make for a nice evening pinball project when it all arrives.

Here's mine in action:

From what I remember, it’s very straight forward. No soldering. Just a ribbon cable and a few screws.

Totally speculating, but my guess is that the upgraded ball save display with the extra LEDs was made during the design phase of Rick and Morty, but will also fit TNA (if you drill a couple new holes).

For me, this issue was a cold solder joint inside the amplifier. One pin where the 3.5mm jack connects was a cold solder joint. That random static drove me nuts until I opened up the amp and found the cold solder joint. Hasn't happened since I re-soldered the 3.5mm jack.

I tried that too and it didn't help my situation. The amp is pretty easy to disassemble but definitely try the other easy fixes before opening it up.

I'm having a reset issue recently. Last weekend while playing, the game just randomly reset mid-game. I didn't think anything of it since it rebooted itself and played fine for the rest of the night. Now today while just sitting in attract mode, the game has reset itself twice within a half hour. I've wiggled/reseated all connections in the backbox but that didn't help. Does anyone know what might be causing resets while just sitting in attract mode?

I haven’t had this happen personally, but I do remember reading in this thread somewhere that when this happens you need to reset the CPU. There’s a little button to press on the right side of the CPU for a reset.

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I was having reset issues a few weeks ago. Customer service at Spooky recommended I turn up the 5v output a bit. Since turning it up to 5.10v I haven't had any reset issues.

Check your voltage coming out of your power distribution board. Mine was at 5v which is apparently right at the limit of resets. There's a knob on the smaller power supply. Turn it up (slowly) until your power distribution is outputting 5.10v.

I still haven't had another reset since doing this almost a month ago.

Not sure why I waited so long to do this mod but wow, it’s worth it! Custom designed decals by me.

Alice Cooper is getting the same tomorrow for the crypt drop.

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This was happening to me almost every game as well. I cut that side off the cliffy and re-installed it so at least the front and left side of the scoop are protected.

This is the first time I'm hearing of Scorbit integration with TNA. Forgive me if this is a dumb question but doesn't ScoreBit need to be internet connected to work? Does this mean TNA will be Wi-Fi enabled soon? I'm assuming we would need to purchase a Wi-Fi USB dongle for this to happen.

My only experience with Scorebit is on my GnR. It would be amazing if it could be integrated into TNA.

Ohhhhhh, that's right. I forgot you can purchase Scorebit kits to install yourself. Thanks for clarifying!

You better make some room for TNA. Send Stranger Things my way if you need some space.

Hey TheNoTrashCougar does the updated reactor display (with the 2 LED lights) you recently coded use the same one that Rick and Morty uses? I'm putting together a PinballLife order and want to be prepared when you release the new code. Thanks!

https://www.pinballlife.com/dual-numeric-display-assembly-for-rick-and-morty.html

Gotcha. Will the new kelly green displays be available to purchase? I upgraded my lower display a long time ago and it is green so I'd like to keep the green up top in the reactor as well. I found my old order but when I click on "reorder" I get an error code.

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You be the judge, but my original TNA 189 says yes.

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Here’s my original TNA #189. Aside from the obvious notches cut out and slightly (1/8 inch) bigger gap between it and the right cabinet side, I really don’t understand this apron witch-hunt that seems to be happening. Stern aprons dating back to TSPP 2003 look the same except for the 1/8 inch smaller gap between the apron and cabinet side.

Different manufacturers have different specs. I’m just happy that Spooky exists and makes fun games that think outside the box a bit. 82CDAABF-4CF2-47AD-8FBD-997DD1259576.jpeg

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For any original run TNA owners that have upgraded their reactor core digit display, is yours SUPER green compared to your ballsave digital display? The new display I just put into the reactor is bright neon green VS the original muted greenish/yellow retro color.

It’s hard to get a picture of but to the naked eye there’s a huge difference in color and brightness.

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Have you tried checking the connections at the power distribution board? It's at the back right of the lower cabinet. Maybe a connector came loose during its journey to you. I would check that the wires are punched completely into the connectors as well.

FYI... The two P3 boards in the backbox can be swapped for troubleshooting purposes. Just make sure the dip-switch positions are swapped as well, so be sure to take pictures.

Awesome! Still a bummer your TNA isn’t working but at least you know how to fix the issue and it won’t cost you anything. My OG TNA 189 is still going strong with minimal issues.

Look for a bridged solder joint on that display.

I just know that I had a very similar issue with my original run TNA out of the box. Spooky service and myself figured it was a bad display so spooky sent me a replacement. When installing the new display, I noticed a bridged solder joint on the original “bad” display. I was able to remove the small piece of solder that was bridging the pins and the display was fine after that.

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It was almost 5 years ago at this point so I could be mistaken, but I'm 98% sure it was the digit pins that were bridged. I'll take a look at my spare display and check when I get home.

Yup! That looks very familar to me. Gotta love the easy fixes.

There’s a piece of metal at the end of the ball trough that is angled back towards the shooter lane. Bend that so it deflects the ball more towards the shooter lane.

The original TNA displays are a light green color. The CEs came with a very bright green. I’m pretty sure the white displays are for Rick and Morty.

Check my key post from the Rick and Morty thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/228#post-6165855

I’ve had my OG since it was delivered 5 years ago. After seeing my 3 friends CEs and hearing their stories, I would buy a used OG any day of the week over the CE.

I’ve had one ceramic ball in mine forever. I like the randomness it adds. It weighs less than a steel ball so it moves quicker around the playfield.

I believe Spooky made and sold the speaker light kit. I would reach out to them to see if they still do that.

Take a look in your backbox. If you see a little pcb board on the back wall that says knocker and shaker, then you’re good to go. If not, grab one from pinballlife.