(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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  • 11,941 posts
  • 769 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 hours ago by falcon950
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #158 The email with purchase details. Posted by Pinballlew (6 years ago)

Post #159 Video with art. Posted by Aurich (6 years ago)

Post #391 Order mirror blades and spooky will install them. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #419 Software update for TNA announced by Scott Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #529 A game play video. Posted by Owlnonymous (6 years ago)

Post #790 Note about early batch of LEDs that had high fail rate - since corrected Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)

Post #854 New podcast on TNA with Scott. Posted by Whysnow (6 years ago)

Post #1530 Fix to beacon light rattle sound. Posted by brenna98 (6 years ago)

Post #1626 Speaker amp settings Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6423 4 years ago

I finally got around to looking back at the mod/upgrade post and saw the LCD upgrade. It looked pretty significant, but the ebay link now points to something that's $500. Is it still possible to get the parts for $100 as was the case about a year ago? Does anyone have a current source to do this upgrade?

#6470 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

My shaker is set to normal and I don't think it's really that bad. Not as bad as some of you are making it out to be? Idk. When I destroy a reactor, I think the shaker behaves like you would expect it to behave when a reactor explodes. It should be violent and big and Holy shit!
Here's at least one vote for "The shaker is great".

I have shakers in multiple games, and I can't remember my wife ever commenting or acknowledging a shaker until this 1.4 update. Without prompting she commented how the shaker was really cool. So that's another vote for liking it! I didn't change any settings after the update, so I don't know what it's currently set to.

#6562 3 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone know if Spooky/TNA speaker panels can be bought anywhere?

Email Spooky directly. I just did this a few days ago for the speaker lights and they put me on a list and will circle back to me once the stay-at-home order is lifted in WI.

#6590 3 years ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Started removing center from florescent protectors. I only did one, I'll redo it and leave about 3/8" all the eay around.
Can you tell which one was done. Need to buy a laser cutter because it was a PITA. Just started playing a game and yes I'll do the rest.

Quoted from AndHart120:

Here are some pictures with the pink protectors installed....

Just gonna say it because someone will...

Who's gonna put both pink and green in the same game (half as-is and half with the centers cut out) and get pictures so all the rest of us slackers know what to order?

#6597 3 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

The thing that sticks out to me that I didn’t really like was the lock now being hazy looking.

I feel that way about both colors. For those of us that don't have colored protectors, it's hard to judge from pictures how "off" the color tinting of the plastics looks. But the one things that sticks out is the lock area, that's supposed to be clear, is translucent pink/green. More than cutting out the centers of plastics, I'd rather see the lock area cut out so that area remained clear as originally intended.

1 week later
#6696 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

See...I know what your evil plan is, Scott. You wait until everybody buys the ball save timer, then you tell everybody, "Wait until you see what I did with the reactor timer!" Cha-CHING!!! Mo money, mo money, mo money...
That being said, I'm in.

Aside from the millions that Scott is obviously making off of these, are/will these be compatible with the reactor timer? I'd just assume go ahead and put both in together if there's any benefit.

1 week later
#6723 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I'm sure the video doesn't do the green much justice, but seeing all that I'm kinda glad now that I've got the pink on it's way.

The green is awesome. Originally I wanted Scott to put in an option for each multiball to rotate to a different GI color, so you didn't have to lock into a single color. But after seeing the green protectors with the blue GI, it's WAY COOL. My wife doesn't get into all this pinball interior designer BS, and I didn't tell her I had installed the green protectors. But the next time we played TNA, she commented right away after one of us got multiball that the "lighting" was super cool.

I don't *love* that the green ads a hue to the plastics, but it's way more than made up for by the lighting effect with the blue multiball GI.

#6737 3 years ago

CAVEAT: I have not seen the pink in person.

I was much more tempted by the pink than the green. Pink obviously goes with the playfield colors. Hell, I have metallic pink flippers on my game, so I get it. But something about the contrast of the green, and the fact that it's a nuclear reactor, made me go green.

SUPER glad I did. The green edges during the blue GI looks amazing, and unlike the pink, doesn't blend in with the rest of the playfield. The glowing green is a cool contrast to all the pink artwork.

A side consideration is they take different color GIs to activate. Green requires the blue, while I guess pink requires the teal. I think the blue GI looks cooler than the teal, so that's an added benefit. All personal preference, obviously. Someone talked about mixing the green with the pink to get the best of both, but the fact that they take different GI really nullifies this for me.

#6768 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I see now what Scott means about holding off so as to impliment a friendly kit for the lit drops.

Is Scott ultimately going to provide a kit for this?

Quoted from THEFOZ:

I’m thinking about putting pink in the center though.

Just remember that the Green and Pink are "activated" by different color GI, so you can't get the full effect of each at the same time.

Quoted from THEFOZ:

I’m working on this reactor coolant fan mod and then the coolant pump after that.

Once you figure this out, are you going to offer this to others as a kit? Not sure what the coolant pump is, but your idea of the coolant fan mod sounds really cool.

#6832 3 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

When playing with someone of lesser skill, consider giving them 3 players to play and yourself 1. When I play with my wife she gets players 1-3 and I get player 4 to help even playtime.

Are talking 3 individual players or can you have mismatched teams in vs mode?

2 weeks later
#6884 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I bet it looks better in person.

I'd maybe be down for the color on the original hardware, but I don't like the new design much at all.

#6901 3 years ago
Quoted from herg:

OK, STL file is posted to Thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4461423
Dimensions are tweaked slightly for printing, but it still has the playfield clamping, etc.
I printed them on their side to make the thin piece stronger. The first two were looking great. The third one, the screw broke off while installing it. Yes, a steel screw sheared off while driving it about 1/4" into wood. [quoted image][quoted image]

For those of us without 3D printers, how long until we can find these for sale on your site, a la the speaker light diffusers?

4 weeks later
#6982 3 years ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Danesi drain from my most recent stream.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/681131464

Those caution tape flipper/scoop decals look pretty cool. Is that a kit from somewhere?

3 months later
#7294 3 years ago
Quoted from Becenbarger:

We just got the speaker lights for total nuclear annihilation. Can anyone help with how we plug it into the game? I am not a pro at this stuff, just enough to keep the games running for our home. So layman terms would really help me. Thanks in advance.

I don't understand why Spooky continues to not ship the instructions with this mod. MANY have contacted them about it (I was one of them). Here they are online.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/who-sells-tna-speaker-light-kit#post-4553990

1 month later
#7477 3 years ago
Quoted from MrCleanHead:

I just felt the need to post a pic.
[quoted image]

Ooh, I like that color. What color is that purple?

2 months later
#7671 3 years ago

I'm having issues with the pop bumper. It seems like a physical issue, but I can't track it down. I experience the problem when the playfield is down, but as soon as I lift the playfield, I cannot replicate the issue. Switch is nice and sensitive, but after certain hits, the switch is somewhere between somewhat and totally unresponsive. You can also hear that at times it is registering multiple switch hits on one press on the skirt. Banging on the playfield usually resets things, but I'm not sure what to adjust. This problem just started happening.

I don't know how to embed a video, but here is a link to me demonstrating the range from super sensitive to unresponsive.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gY9vbmrQ8PhJS2Dd7

Appreciate any help.

#7698 3 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey guys
My scoop rejects. A lot. Anyone else have this problem, or do I just need to aim better?

I agree, this is the hardest scoop to make on any game I own. Are there any possible adjustments to make this better? Frankly, a direct hit to a scoop should not reject. There were initially issues on R&M’s scoop, but lowering it with washers and a slight bend and that scoop is 100% for me. Is there something equivalent here to help? The answer really shouldn’t be attempting a dribbling rebound shot.

I’m at the point that I just shoot the orbits and hope the ball falls down rather than shooting the scoop directly.

#7700 3 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Have you tried lowering your flipper coil power?

No, I supposed that’s a good place to start. I’ve owned 90% B/W games (or older) so I always forget there is a setting for flipper power. And even then assume it was shipped at “optimal” power.

“Listen here Sonny, I remember back in my day, you had to swap a coil to change flipper power. That’s right, you needed to know how to solder, Sonny. We didn’t have settings, or quick connect doohickeys. You had to desolder, and then resolder things. Burning yourself and breathing in the melting metal smell is what made you feel alive. That’s how a man used to change flipper strength.”

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