Just joined the club (Hooorraaaaay) Very Excited to get this on location and welcome my little college town to the future!! Only playfield additions I did are a dimmed purple trough light and 2 color changers in both the scoops, frosted light-up drop targets might be next but that's it, this things amazingly awesome!!!

Does anyone have a TNA/Co-op flyer with the two mode descriptions and hold-start button instructions etc..? I was going to make one for my location where we just got a TNA to put on the wall next to it, but thought I’d check here first to see if anyone’s made one already. THX

Thanks I didn’t realize that! When I got it in I noticed the right sling had a red gi and I just ordered a replacement from pbl, good thing I went ahead and ordered a few just in case there were any other issues!

Ok I'm no designer by any means, just downloaded a free program and hacked this together.
For those of you who have this on location please let me know if there's some verbiage tweaks that could be better or if any other info could be added/removed to help casual players understand how to jump into the Co-op fun!... THX

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For any other location folks if you want to use it, I made this basic How-to flyer to put next to the Co-op Mode poster. For some reason a lot of people never think to read the info cards in our games!? Kids these days...I may print up instruction cards that look like iPhones and then maybe they'll read them hah

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TheNoTrashCougar cmon Scott drop the mic and tell everyone you’re going to put a second spinner in the drain trough¡!#%*((;

Ours landed at 7.6 and though it was fun I figured it might be too much for most people, lowered it and it landed on 6.9 and its great, so I didn't bother getting back under it for the bump up to 7 and its all good.

My unasked 2cents on the scoop lighting is I think it would be cool if the scoops were slow changing color changers in unison and then flashed a certain color when there's a reason to hit them in conjunction with the pf inserts, such as flash blue when mystery is lit, and red or yellow or yellow/red when reactor is lit, & flash green or something choreographed with the top scoop when you need to hit it etc..

On R&M I put a slow color changer on the top scoop and just a solid blue light in the return portal hole by left flipper. Both are more fun than black holes and the color changer up top just adds a cool element to that area. On TNA I put color changers on both scoops and they change in unison and its subtle yet again more interesting than just dark holes. The color changing is so slow it doesn't distract me or anyone playing, its just a nice accent because at the end of the day there's inserts in the pf & display indications telling you when to hit the scoop, but I really like the idea of the scoop lights also being able to chime in along with the gameplay!

I’d like to know if you resolve your issue.

I recently got our TNA and have a lot of intermittent lower left flipper weakness. The pulse power is on 29 on both lower left and right and the right one is never weak, plus this weakness occurs even on first game after powering up -not just after a lot of plays etc.. I’ve tried adjusting the leaf (the first one closest to the cabinet is the lower flipper on mine) and felt like I get some decent power every once in a while but most of the time not strong enough to make right orbit. It’s almost like I have to hit the left flipper button extra hard to try and get more strength in the shot, way harder then I would normally hit a flipper button. So it seems like the switch is regularly having trouble making a solid connection even when adjusted to have a reduced gap.

Thanks for the helpful info, between that and what worked for WizardsCastle hopefully I’ll get this left flip back to full throttle. Thinking about those factors makes me realize that this symptom started after I installed the Brite Buttons mod, and I recall this batch of BButtons didn’t have the best solder job making it hard to get the flipper nut back on good. So maybe this issue isn’t allowing the flipper button to get as tight as possible and not touching the long leaf at rest as much as it should...
When I get back to the machine I’m going to take out the BButton mod and re-test the strength. Thanks!

Thanks for the further clarification, I removed the Brute Button mod and also worked to adjust the leafs some more to try and make sure they could get a stronger contact, even though the gap was reduced it seemed like there needed to be a firmer press as per your description. Anyway at the moment I can hit the right orbit and I’m getting more out of that lower left flip!
I put all new rubbers on and added some green fluorescents around the PF but didn’t put them all on, I like being able to see in the ball lock and thought it made a nice balance. Fresh coat of wax and a bar rag under the quarters in the coin box so no more bass rattle - Man this machine feels/looks/sounds amazing Thanks again to Scott & Spooky!!!
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I recently got our TNA and it came with purple static speaker lights, what’s it take to upgrade them to the rgb ones?
I’d definitely like to do this and then add the connected exterior backbox led strip!

Can someone please shoot me a pic of the upper left flipper from under the playfield?

I had a wire break off that coil and noticed a second wire that appeared clipped & going nowhere, so I’m wondering if one of the 3 legs on that coil is supposed to have 2 wires going to it?
Thanks for any help!

Awesome thanks!
That clears it up for me, apparently I had one wire break off the double leg and one wire break off the opposite end that’s a single wire, was assuming they both went to the same leg but nope.
Cheers

I decided to go totally nuclear!(; asked harryhoudini at Pinball Mods Co if he could make me a UV apron light set like what I have on my R&M, so he made this black set and has them available now for TNA on his site. It PoPs and multiball is radioactive¡!(;

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