(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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#4851 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

If you've got the washer fix and you're updated on the latest code (official version is 1.3.0 but there's a beta code on Scott's beta page), then you should be good to go.
If you are feeling particularly motivated, many (including myself) have swapped out the power supply fan for a quieter one. Plus if you don't have one, you really, really, really need to get a shaker. It has the best shaker integration in any pinball game I've played.
Some people have swapped out LCD panels for something that isn't as "washed out" as the stock one, but if you play with the settings on the stock monitor, you should find something that works.
Also if you're having trouble with scoop rejects, bending the scoop down slightly should help a bit, but the scoop is tough to hit from the right flipper.

Thanks for all the information. I do not have the washer fix installed (I was informed my playfield is a late run where they changed what the problem was), but I suppose I can add them on if folks think that is wise. KT told me she's going to mail the washers for the high-traffic areas tomorrow (I assume I can just refer to this thread to know which posts are the problem children).

I did notice the fan power supply was, well, noticeable. Is that just installing a different model fan I take it? I've done that for computers before when the fans start to fail on power supplies. I don't notice it so much when a game is going, but definitely do when it is sitting idle.

I do not have a shaker. I'll consider it (I'm not normally super excited about shaker motors, nice but optional is my typical view). I am interested in what you said about the monitor as I did find it very washed out (I really only had location Sterns to compare it to, but I was very surprised at how faint it looked). I'll mess with the settings and see what I can get going with that.

I'll experiment more with the scoops. I think I just brick the shot mostly (often from the left). I'm still adjusting the power settings on the coils to try and find something comfortable without seeming excessive.

Thanks for all the suggestions, they are very helpful!

#4852 1 year ago

Thanks for all the information. I do not have the washer fix installed (I was informed my playfield is a late run where they changed what the problem was), but I suppose I can add them on if folks think that is wise. KT told me she's going to mail the washers for the high-traffic areas tomorrow (I assume I can just refer to this thread to know which posts are the problem children).
I did notice the fan power supply was, well, noticeable. Is that just installing a different model fan I take it? I've done that for computers before when the fans start to fail on power supplies. I don't notice it so much when a game is going, but definitely do when it is sitting idle.
I do not have a shaker. I'll consider it (I'm not normally super excited about shaker motors, nice but optional is my typical view). I am interested in what you said about the monitor as I did find it very washed out (I really only had location Sterns to compare it to, but I was very surprised at how faint it looked). I'll mess with the settings and see what I can get going with that.
I'll experiment more with the scoops. I think I just brick the shot mostly (often from the left). I'm still adjusting the power settings on the coils to try and find something comfortable without seeming excessive.
Thanks for all the suggestions, they are very helpful!</blockquote

I did nothing to my fan or screen for that does not bother me. However, the shaker is a must and will enhance the gameplay greatly.

#4853 1 year ago
Quoted from DennisK:

Thanks for all the information. I do not have the washer fix installed (I was informed my playfield is a late run where they changed what the problem was), but I suppose I can add them on if folks think that is wise. KT told me she's going to mail the washers for the high-traffic areas tomorrow (I assume I can just refer to this thread to know which posts are the problem children).
I did notice the fan power supply was, well, noticeable. Is that just installing a different model fan I take it? I've done that for computers before when the fans start to fail on power supplies. I don't notice it so much when a game is going, but definitely do when it is sitting idle.
I do not have a shaker. I'll consider it (I'm not normally super excited about shaker motors, nice but optional is my typical view). I am interested in what you said about the monitor as I did find it very washed out (I really only had location Sterns to compare it to, but I was very surprised at how faint it looked). I'll mess with the settings and see what I can get going with that.
I'll experiment more with the scoops. I think I just brick the shot mostly (often from the left). I'm still adjusting the power settings on the coils to try and find something comfortable without seeming excessive.
Thanks for all the suggestions, they are very helpful!

I did not mess with the fan or screen for that does not bother me. However, the shaker is a must and will enhance the gameplay greatly.

#4854 1 year ago

Agreed on the shaker. It's *so* well implemented on this game! I've always had a lukewarm kind of attitude toward shakers generally, but it's a must on this game. You'll see why once you get it!

#4855 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

I did not mess with the fan or screen for that does not bother me. However, the shaker is a must and will enhance the gameplay greatly.

I'm embarrassed to say I hardly even know what's on the LCD screen as I can't look up at all while playing, at any rate it seems fine but I'm not very visually discerning. The fan struck me as very loud at first and considered replacing but for some reason I have to listen for it now to notice it, so I'm passing on that for now.

You guys did get me to order the shaker though -- I will say that sometimes I miss when I actually destroy the reactor in the midst of the chaos so I'm hopeful the shaker will add some drama to the moment.

#4856 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I used these and they work well. Similar to the ones above but in metric vs standard.
amazon.com link »

Awesome, thanks! What dimension did you use? Ideally I don't want it to overhang too much.

#4857 1 year ago

My TNA has been acting up lately in a variety of baffling ways.

1) Yesterday someone reported that they started a new game and it immediately put them in multiball mode. I verified this myself today, it happened once; the GI all turned green and it behaved like it was in multiball mode, but with only one actual ball in play. The next time I started a game, it didn't happen. One player had it continuously belch out multi-balls and he got a rocking undeserved score.

2) Every few minutes randomly in attract mode, the game rifles through resetting the drop targets, even though there's nothing going on. When I go into switch/coil test modes, everything is functioning and registering reliably.

3) Sometimes in ball search mode (which weirdly keeps running even when I enter the test menu from the middle of a game), the left scoop opto is getting triggered when a nearby sling goes off. Everything seems solid and well soldered. I've fiddled all the connectors on the little opto driver board on the right, but that doesn't seem to help it.

4) Sometimes if I manually force multi-ball to start by continuously sending the ball up into the drop targets by hand, it will get confused and register a "right scoop error" (see the video below) the instant the ball hits the opto at the bottom. All the optos and coils test fine in test mode, though one time I was putting it through its paces and the front drop target coil locked on and just stayed on until I power-cycled the game. Once it says "right scoop error," nothing but manually triggering the coil from the test menu is going to get that ball out of there.

Spooky stuff like this has been happening off and on for a while, but it seems to be increasing in frequency lately.

Any ideas, guys?

#4858 1 year ago

So I adjusted the monitor settings to 85 Contrast, 25 Brightness, and Gamma On, as someone else had mentioned a few pages back and what a difference that makes! I no longer feel like it needs the screen upgrade. I also swapped out the power supply fan with a Noctua NF-A6.25 FLX and that made a pretty big difference in the noise. It's not inaudible in a quiet room like I had hoped, but it is a big improvement.

#4859 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

So I adjusted the monitor settings to 85 Contrast, 25 Brightness, and Gamma On, as someone else had mentioned a few pages back and what a difference that makes! I no longer feel like it needs the screen upgrade. I also swapped out the power supply fan with a Noctua NF-A6.25 FLX and that made a pretty big difference in the noise. It's not inaudible in a quiet room like I had hoped, but it is a big improvement.

Those Noctua fans are awesome! I am totally buying that if you say it is a quiet fan. The fan noise in the game has become more annoying to me over time.

As for the display calibration, where do you access that?

#4860 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Those Noctua fans are awesome! I am totally buying that if you say it is a quiet fan. The fan noise in the game has become more annoying to me over time.
As for the display calibration, where do you access that?

There are buttons on the back of the LCD panel.

#4861 1 year ago
Quoted from triggur:

My TNA has been acting up lately in a variety of baffling ways.
1) Yesterday someone reported that they started a new game and it immediately put them in multiball mode. I verified this myself today, it happened once; the GI all turned green and it behaved like it was in multiball mode, but with only one actual ball in play. The next time I started a game, it didn't happen. One player had it continuously belch out multi-balls and he got a rocking undeserved score.
2) Every few minutes randomly in attract mode, the game rifles through resetting the drop targets, even though there's nothing going on. When I go into switch/coil test modes, everything is functioning and registering reliably.
3) Sometimes in ball search mode (which weirdly keeps running even when I enter the test menu from the middle of a game), the left scoop opto is getting triggered when a nearby sling goes off. Everything seems solid and well soldered. I've fiddled all the connectors on the little opto driver board on the right, but that doesn't seem to help it.
4) Sometimes if I manually force multi-ball to start by continuously sending the ball up into the drop targets by hand, it will get confused and register a "right scoop error" (see the video below) the instant the ball hits the opto at the bottom. All the optos and coils test fine in test mode, though one time I was putting it through its paces and the front drop target coil locked on and just stayed on until I power-cycled the game. Once it says "right scoop error," nothing but manually triggering the coil from the test menu is going to get that ball out of there.
Spooky stuff like this has been happening off and on for a while, but it seems to be increasing in frequency lately.
Any ideas, guys?

Your drop 1 down switch is acting up and/or your optos are acting up behind drop 1.

#4862 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Those Noctua fans are awesome! I am totally buying that if you say it is a quiet fan. The fan noise in the game has become more annoying to me over time.
As for the display calibration, where do you access that?

I think it is probably about as quiet as it could be for a fan that small. I think to get any quieter, you'd have to get a larger fan that was spinning much slower in order to move the same air. I almost got the Vantec Stealth SF6025L that someone else had mentioned but it only moves 12 CFM of air and the factory fan moves 22-23 CFM. The Noctua moves just over 17 CFM at the same 20dBA as the Vantec. Since the power supply isn't any where near maxed out, I think it will be plenty for keeping it cool. The only thing I had to do was cut the 3-pin connector off the Noctua (cut the yellow wire out completely) and solder on the 2-pin connector from the original/factory fan onto the Noctua.

#4863 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Awesome, thanks! What dimension did you use? Ideally I don't want it to overhang too much.

I used the size that I linked.

#4864 1 year ago

Where can I find the metal plate for the speakers?

#4865 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Your drop 1 down switch is acting up and/or your optos are acting up behind drop 1.

Thanks, I'll double-check both and I guess reflow the connectors.

#4866 1 year ago

Does anyone have a nice closeup picture of some clear silicone washers under their star posts?

#4867 1 year ago
Quoted from triggur:

Thanks, I'll double-check both and I guess reflow the connectors.

Meant to text you about that yesterday and forgot. I had started a game, ball in the shooter lane. Game gave me like 22,000 points and showed end of ball. I launch ball 2 and it shot 3 more in play. The game didn't know it was in multiball. I happened to lock one ball and the rest drained. Ball was stuck behind 1st drop and even in ball search would not let it go. I rebooted it and it seemed ok on the next game.

#4868 1 year ago

Had TNA come in the house and my son looks at me and says "Dad what game is that?" I looked at the TNA girl and thought of Ready Player One. I replied " It is Ready Player One" and he looked up at me with a huge smile. He now says everyday-"Dad let's play some Ready Player One." He is starting to learn the control necessary for this game-lots of cradling and trying to avoid center shots. We are loving this game, wish I would have bought it sooner.

#4869 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Had TNA come in the house and my son looks at me and says "Dad what game is that?" I looked at the TNA girl and thought of Ready Player One. I replied " It is Ready Player One" and he looked up at me with a huge smile. He now says everyday-"Dad let's play some Ready Player One." He is starting to learn the control necessary for this game-lots of cradling and trying to avoid center shots. We are loving this game, wish I would have bought it sooner.

I smell retheme!

Weird, just watched this with the neighbor kids over the weekend. They loved it!

#4870 1 year ago

Ready Player One...very cool, I highly recommend the book for those that like to read.

#4871 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Does anyone have a nice closeup picture of some clear silicone washers under their star posts?

20181219_154418 (resized).jpg20181219_153338 (resized).jpg

20181219_152408 (resized).jpg
#4872 1 year ago

Those clears blend right in. Thanks for the photo! Thanks FatPanda for the advice on this topic as well.

#4873 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I just put them under ALL my star posts, to keep everything even. Was that wrong?

I did the same thing. I figured it was the best way to keep everything uniform and I wound up finding damage under five star posts on my playfield, so "total service" was the best option based on what I was given to work with.

#4874 1 year ago

I installed that Noctua fan and I can confirm it is way quieter. That said, it is a little more involved than I had hoped. It took me about 50 minutes and there are a few tight spaces to deal with.

Hands down, the most important part is to ensure you have the correct sized Phillips head screwdrivers. The entire power supply cage is held together by tiny screws that strip really easily.

Additionally, now that I can hardly hear the fan, I hear something else. I can’t tell exactly what it is, but I think it is a high pitched noise coming from the HookedOnPinball lighted side rails. Has anyone else noticed that?

#4875 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I installed that Noctua fan and I can confirm it is way quieter. That said, it is a little more involved than I had hoped. It took me about 50 minutes and there are a few tight spaces to deal with.
Hands down, the most important part is to ensure you have the correct sized Phillips head screwdrivers. The entire power supply cage is held together by tiny screws that strip really easily.
Additionally, now that I can hardly hear the fan, I hear something else. I can’t tell exactly what it is, but I think it is a high pitched noise coming from the HookedOnPinball lighted side rails. Has anyone else noticed that?

I had the same problem. It is being grounded, take out the top side rail screws and use a screw driver and grind it around in the hole to separate the side rail light a bit from the screw hole then reinsert the screws. If you need more explaination send me a pm.

#4876 1 year ago

I picked up a TNA recent and I'm having a couple issues that I could use some help with.

1.) The 2nd (middle) drop target does not want to drop via CPU assist. I've attached a video showing the problem. The coil fires and the arm is hitting the drop target, but it does not to want to fall (which messes up the ball locks right from the get go). However, when the drop is struck by the ball, it drops all of the time. This suggests to me that the brass arm bar that's trying to push the drop away from the ledge is actually serving as a crutch and preventing the spring from pulling it down. I cannot find any difference between it and the other two drop assemblies. I've tried both increasing and lowering the coil strength to no avail. Really want to get this rectified ASAP.

2.) The plunger is not making good contact with the ball. Even at full plunge, I'm lucky to get the ball to reach the CORE lanes -- which is not what I've observed on any other TNA. It looks like the plunger is sitting too far back from the ball -- or more likely the auto-plunge forks that the ball is resting against, are sitting too far forward. Any suggestions on adjustments?

Software Issues:
1.) On a plunge, the inline drops should turn red for a quick shot or super skill shot, but I don't always see this.
2.) There seems to be a brief scenario where right after a plunge to the inlanes, the left and right flipper lane change movements are reversed. I need to take video of this, but I've seen where the left flipper advances right and vice-versa.
3.) Tilt issues. No additional tilt warnings or tilt can be received once bonus count has begun. You can shake the living hell out of the game before and during bonus count, but once that bonus screen sequence begins, you cannot tilt. Worse yet, if that tilt bob is still swinging, the next player/ball advances and THAT ball accumulates your dangers/tilts. Reducing the swing in the tilt bob (say via earplugs) is not a solution to the underlying software problem. Bonus should be only awarded at the absolute end of the screen sequence. In the interim, tilt switch accumulation should continue and if you tilt, the display sequence should end. Likewise, advancement to the next player/ball should not occur until so many seconds have passed since the last tilt switch trigger (which under normal play would be immediate).
4.) I've seen a scenario early ball where hitting the pop-bumper causes the shaker motor to get "stuck" in a low rumble until end of ball.
5.) I've seen a scenario where one of the slings will get "stuck" in the fired/out position for 2-3 seconds.
6.) We've witnessed several scenarios where a 50,000 or 150,000 mystery award does not award the correct value.

#4877 1 year ago

League night photo / Philadelphia

Philly Pinball Club - Total Nuclear Annihilation.jpg
#4878 1 year ago

Looks like she came to kick some ass and destroy some reactors!

#4879 1 year ago

Anyone have a display go out on you? Any remedys

#4880 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I am about to order Hooked pop bumper mod and noticed the ceramic ball mod. What are your guys thoughts on ceramic ball for TNA? Is it worth it? This game is kicking my ass-can't imagine the ball being even faster-holy reject batman.
Also I have decided I am going to order a Polk for my TNA. It does have significant bass-but I want more

I have the pop bumper mod and like it. Have ceramic ball to throw in for the kids, but not a regular thing. Hell yea add a sub, added one last week and holy hell!!!! I Used a speaker jack splitter at the amp and ran a set of RCA to line level on the sub, cabinet speaker still in operation. I have a dedicated sub on all my pins and love it. Feel the bass!!!

#4881 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

Feel the bass!!!

Fu%@ Yea Brother!

Blown away.png
#4882 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

All if you haven't got the washers on your star posts - DO THIS NOW. Pretty much all of the games made are going to suffer from this problem.
Neil.

What? Can you expand on this?

#4883 1 year ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

It's not all the games... but if you are even remotely concerned, YES! Email us, we'll send you the washers free of charge, and keep them safe.
kt@spookypinball.com or squirrel@spookypinball.com

#4884 1 year ago

I think you should be able to tell if your game is affected by the issue by whether or not the artwork goes under the posts or is shaped around them. In the pics that marvello posted, you can see the artwork extends under the posts. In the image I posted, you can see that the artwork goes around the posts.

IMG_1872 (resized).jpg
#4885 1 year ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

What? Can you expand on this?

I’ll have some extra clear washers if you can wait until next time. I got from Amazon but have not yet installed them.

#4886 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Fu%@ Yea Brother![quoted image]

Had that pic on my bedroom wall as a kid. Right next to this one.

D48E175D-5758-4763-99D7-12140ECF8F99 (resized).jpeg
#4887 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I’ll have some extra clear washers if you can wait until next time. I got from Amazon but have not yet installed them.

Thanks Phil! KT dropped some in the mail today

#4888 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

I think you should be able to tell if your game is affected by the issue by whether or not the artwork goes under the posts or is shaped around them. In the pics that marvello posted, you can see the artwork extends under the posts. In the image I posted, you can see that the artwork goes around the posts.
[quoted image]

So this is interesting. Was the problem all along hat the art bled under the posts causing a weak barrier between the clear coat and wood? Are all of the new games printed differently?

#4889 1 year ago

Noticed a discoloration around my left scoop this evening that was not there originally. I can't feel anything when I touch it (smooth as the rest of the scoop parameter). Bubble under the clear coat? Wasn't sure if I should do anything about it or if it's just cosmetic. Photo included.

20190302_220621 (resized).jpg
#4890 1 year ago

Hmm, I have pretty much the exact same discoloration in the same spot. I received mine about two weeks ago.

#4891 1 year ago
Quoted from iloveplywood:

Hmm, I have pretty much the exact same discoloration in the same spot. I received mine about two weeks ago.

Same, game arrived from Spooky in late February.

#4892 1 year ago

Anybody know where to get the target decals from mezel mods is out of them. Thanks

#4894 1 year ago
Quoted from DennisK:

Noticed a discoloration around my left scoop this evening that was not there originally. I can't feel anything when I touch it (smooth as the rest of the scoop parameter). Bubble under the clear coat? Wasn't sure if I should do anything about it or if it's just cosmetic. Photo included.
[quoted image]

The clear has lifted off the paint there due to a ball impact. It will eventually chip off.

My TNA scoop has some wear directly on top edges but it’s more gradual/localized.

I’d recommend covering the area around the hole with some mylar to protect it and to seal the chip in (though you’ll never be able to remove the mylar without taking the chip off too).

Maybe talk to Spooky first and see what they suggest.

#4895 1 year ago

I've put strips of mylar around the scoop as well, probably after 700 or so games. It still looks good, but I would do that with yours to prevent further wear.

#4896 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

The clear has lifted off the paint there due to a ball impact. It will eventually chip off.
My TNA scoop has some wear directly on top edges but it’s more gradual/localized.
I’d recommend covering the area around the hole with some mylar to protect it and to seal the chip in (though you’ll never be able to remove the mylar without taking the chip off too).
Maybe talk to Spooky first and see what they suggest.

Thanks for the feedback.

Spooky recommended a Cliffy protector for that scoop once it is released as best solution (I've reached out to Cliffy to see if there is an ETA on that; I checked his site before the game arrived but saw there weren't any out yet, as that's my typical Day 1 approach). I actually have clear coat from another project, and was curious if I should remove the chip and patch it or not, and whether that tends to stay isolated or spread (no paint around the scoop so I'm not concerned with that specifically [scoops take wear, it's life], just whether I should be concerned with it spreading to the clear over the painted portions nearby). Spooky just recommended watching it for now before doing a touch-up intervention.

I may mylar, depending on the ETA from Cliffy. I think if I wax again before applying it removes pretty easy. Been a while since I looked into it.

EDIT: Heard back from Cliffy, he's still engineering the full solution so it isn't ready yet but he's working on it. He echos what @fytr and @fatpanda advise, put some mylar around the scoop (if damage exists just mylar over it).

#4897 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I've put strips of mylar around the scoop as well, probably after 700 or so games. It still looks good, but I would do that with yours to prevent further wear.

I got the black washers for free from Spooky... prefer the look of the clear washers you linked on Amazon. Haven’t put them on yet, but now I’m going to break out the mylar based on your experiences as well. Beginning to think it’d just be easier for you to come visit!! Probably a few other things to work on as well.

#4898 1 year ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

Has anyone attempted to clone the drive of the UP Board computer? It looks like I could probably do so via the USB 3.0 port, but I will need power to the board. Should I be able to clone the drive while the computer is in the game powered on, so it can get its 5V?

Bumping this. I can't think of why this would be a problem, but has anyone cloned the computer in this game? Is doing it with the game powered on the right approach?

#4899 1 year ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

Bumping this. I can't think of why this would be a problem, but has anyone cloned the computer in this game? Is doing it with the game powered on the right approach?

I would not risk it as it is totally unnecessary and probably would not work. Spooky is still in business and can replace the PC if needed and has default images for these machines. I would just leave it be.
--Scott

#4900 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I would not risk it as it is totally unnecessary and probably would not work. Spooky is still in business and can replace the PC if needed and has default images for these machines. I would just leave it be.
--Scott

Cool, thanks Scott. I felt like I was on a roll after backing up my BoP. 2.0, which I think was a sane thing to do

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