Need some help.my metal bracket on my pop bumper had dropped. When I opened the machine found these six washers and two screws. What's the correct way to reattach?
KingPinGames any advice?

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From an earlier post from scott

Essentially

Metal ring
Washer
Fiber insert
Metal insert
Washer
Washer
Nylon nut

There are two threaded rods that come down from the pop bumper ring. Each will go through three washers, then the two yokes and secured with the lock washer.

Oops. I would trust KingPinGames over my post, though I have always seen what I posted on plenty of games, only with 1 washers not 3, as described here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485839

Thank you! KingPinGames and floyd1977 back up and running. Funny thing I didn't notice till I was playing today that it had dropped and I had some of my best games past few days without the pop bumper working. Lol. Thanks gentleman!

from the field, a stock machine is on coin operated play and enjoyed by new, casual and expert players alike in a public arcade.

Screenshot_2019-02-12 Philly Pinball Club on Instagram “Scenes from PPC night one We had a great first night of the winter [...]

What size torx bit do I need to open the siren light? T8?

I would reach out to Spooky about that. Hopefully you can resolve it soon to get some playtime in.

Is that a concern at all?

TheNoTrashCougar Are we close to 1.3.1 release or would you still recommend 1.3.1.b3?

I'm enjoying the game more with the flipper strength at 26. For me it makes the game a little bit easier.

Skip's doing reactor 9 runs tonight: http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball

Indeed - this is a great resource - thank you for sharing. I'm going to print and laminate this and put it in the game.

it will be in the manual. I need to update a couple of pictures from the latest code and hopefully will have a draft for everyone to look at (and to rip me a new one for not being a manual designer) by the end of the this month (february 2019)

You've got high standards to live up to ever since Butch appeared on the scene.

For sure. Mine will look like doodles on a napkin by comparison

Can someone send me the numbers off the backbox key? We may have lost ours and I have a pile I can go through before picking or drilling. There was much drinking and rejoicing after the last code update.

Mine is H95

They are different. You can go to an auto parts store and get a basic torx bit set (tamper proof). You can unscrew the plate that has the lock and then remove the entire plate and change the lock

Should be taking delivery of my first pin, #527, early next week!

Got my TNA set up today and I'm loving it! A few things:

Should the backglass feel kind of loose like it's rattling around when I touch it?

Is 1.2.1 the latest firmware?

Anybody else have problems with their backglass key? Mine works about 1 in 10 attempts at turning it. The cashbox key works great.

How can I lock the front metal edge piece back in after removing the glass? I pulled the lever to remove it but I can't figure out how to lock it back in. The lever doesn't seem to want to move once the metal edge is back in place.

I still need to level it.

Love the game! My first pin!

First off congrats on your first pin!

My backglass is the same, a little rattly but not really an issue for me at least.

no, you can get instructions on how to update the game and also the latest production code here: http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

My backglass key work just fine every time.

The lever may be a little hard to push back in. (edit: You will want to pull the lever to the left then place your lock down bar in then push the lever to the right)

(if i missed anything someone else also chip in)

perfectly right. a little hard to do on my machine too, just wiggle a bit and try a few more times, put pressure on the lockdown bar. it will close up fine!

You can adjust the screws in the lockdown bar receiver to make it easier to lock down . Do them each a half turn at a time until the lock bar fits nice and tight but can be latched easily.

My cousin's game is very difficult to latch the lock down bar. Really looked at it hard one day and I really couldn't figure out a good solution to make it easier. The notches simply weren't low enough for the mechanism to latch properly, and the screws didn't help. We just have to battle it to get it to work every time.

Hooked on pinball Reactor mod installed Since my machine is all powder coated black I had to make it black instead of chrome...great mod!

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Funny, I got my TNA delivered today (by Chris at Kingpin games, HIGHLY recommend) and I wondered the same thing about the back glass and am having difficulty with the lock bar as well. I haven't messed around with it too much because I'm having too much fun playing. The only other issue I had was my siren topper makes a grinding noise sometimes when it spins. I'll open it up and look at it tomorrow.

This game definitely has me playing "one more game," over and over again.

I used two small pieces of sticky back weather strip to provide cushion for the backglass. Glad you're enjoying the game!

The rock tumbler beacon is on mine too. I just turn off the beacon on attract mode.

Will update the firmware and work on the lock down bar today.

When does the red siren topper come on?

During normal gameplay it comes on while your reactor is critical.

Is there a recommended walkthrough/tutorial video?

this is a great one, but also contains a spoiler for the end of the game just as an FYI if you care

Ok I'll try to avoid the spoiler. Is it at the end of the video?

BTW I got the latch closed by pressing my forearm against the bar and putting a lot of weight on it. This is closed, right?

latch (resized).jpg

yes that is closed
and yes the spoiler is near the end, basically don't watch reactor 9

Ha, rock tumbler is a good description of the noise. Is this pretty normal for TNA? Did you ever take a look at it the siren?

The game is super fun and addictive.

PIcked up a gorgeous TNA earlier in the week, and played a bunch of games before upgrading from 1.2.1 to 1.3.0.

I've got three bugs to report
1. Present in both versions. You cannot tilt during bonus count. Even worse, if the tilt bob is still swinging, any tilt warning (or possibly tilt) will commence for the next player or ball. Tilt switch activation should continue through bonus count, and next ball should not advance until tilt switch activation has ceased for a reasonable time frame.

2. Present only in 1.3.0. Have seen a number of times where a slingshot (right that I've seen) stays activated for several seconds after a fire. Super annoying.

3. Have had one instance in normal single ball play, reactor not started, where the shaker produced a continuous rumble. Nothing would stop it. It would shake normally during game activated features, then return to this low rumble state. Had to turn the game off to get it to stop.

Love the speaker light kit. Thanks Team Spooky!

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Fired up my TNA (#427) today and found the same thing. Thanks to this thread got it all put back together quickly!

On thing to check is that the brackets that hold the speaker panel in on the head aren’t too wide. On my game the speaker panel and Bk above it would wobble out from where they meet. Once when moving the game the BG fell right out! Was a minor miracle it didn’t shatter.

I simply bent the brackets that hold the speaker panel in place down/narrower and that solved it 100%.

Can you downgrade to earlier code on spooky games?

Yes. I once backed it down to an old code just so I could hear the old BEEPs!

Interesting. Does anybody's not wobble where those two panels meet?

I did take a look and I tried to get some super lube in the mechanism, but it really didn't help. It was covered at some point either in this thread or the TNA production thread, but it's pretty normal among TNA's. If you take it off attract mode, the beacon only lights up during critical reactor. At that point, it's really hard to hear the beacon, especially with a shaker installed. (which btw, if you don't have one for this game, it is a must)

Regarding the tricky back box key up above: are you sure you are using the right one? It’s different than the coin door key and it is hidden on a little clip inside the door.

I added a 2 inch section of weather stripping on each side to keep the glass from vibrating against the speaker panel. It was more the noise that bothered me. The weather stripping took care of that.

I'm joining the club! Mine should be shipping soon. I purchased through Kingpin too! I've been looking forward to adding this game to my collection ever since playing it with friends on location.

Any tips for setup?
What are your recommendations on playfield angle, 6.5 degree?

Well, #216 has started to get play field chipping . The bottom right sling star post has some paint coming up around it. I’ve played an estimated 800 games on it (code update wiped my audits). The bottom left sling star post looks to be “pushing” up some of the clear coat. I guess it is time to order the play field protector.

All if you haven't got the washers on your star posts - DO THIS NOW. Pretty much all of the games made are going to suffer from this problem.

Neil.