After I updated my game I noticed my left flipper seemed pretty loud. Not sure if it’s always been like that or not.

I have also done this and bent the top of the scoop down slightly. Nice improvement.

I noticed on my game, there is a plastic piece between the right scoop and bottom of the playfield that lowers the scoop about an eighth inch or so. I wonder why the same wasn't done on the left scoop. Maybe because the left scoop is closer and dropping it may cause damage to the scoop edge?

Upper right playfield lights are out 33 thru 56. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks for any help

Okay. Then the board is passing the information through. Check for a loose power cable or no voltage at that cable. There is a black wire (ground) and a red wire (5v dc). Make sure it hasn't come loose.

Yes! Me too. After updating to 1.3.1 Beta, I notice the left flipper is real buzzy.
Should I be concerned?

Check your PED1 and PED2 light boards. They are on the right side of the playfield. Looks like the red colored lights on the picture attached are the ones that are out for you. Make sure everything is connected. Not sure if that is the problem but worth checking. I had the same issue with that exact area of lights. Instead mine were not the right colors. They were all brown and different off colors. I went in and disconnected and reconnected the cables on those boards and all is good now.

TNA RGB Lighting Diagram.pdf

My right flipper is very buzzy after the latest beta upgrade as well.

Whoa what is this pdf? did you make this it rules?

I did not make this. It was provided to me by Spooky Tech when I was having issues on my lights. I agree it is a great resource and hope it gets included in the TNA manual when it becomes public.

The lights that are out are the black colored ones, I will try and disconnect and reconnect when I get home. The connectors are full of hot glue which sucks.

My post was answering Troutfarms post 4697. Yes your light board is LED #0. Yes you will need to remove the hot glue. It is a pain but mine works perfect now.

Reseated all connectors on that board and did not fix the problem. All lights on the Led0 board stay a faint red. Any other things I should check? Thanks

Has anyone attempted to clone the drive of the UP Board computer? It looks like I could probably do so via the USB 3.0 port, but I will need power to the board. Should I be able to clone the drive while the computer is in the game powered on, so it can get its 5V?

Alright folks I’ve got the fix for anyone being frustrated by the left scoop rejecting well aimed shots.

Simply take 1.5” piece of wide Velcro (the fuzzy side) and stick it to the underside of the scoop. Give the scoop metal a quick wipe with some rubbing alcohol first.
40A37CB1-9290-4013-8534-08B6ED5AC9DE (resized).jpeg
22BDA538-507F-4381-A6C5-8812D5691D30 (resized).jpeg

Also make sure your scoop metal is bent a bit on the low side (carefully) as well.
image (resized).jpg

This is an old pinball’s trick for slowing down the ball a smidge in places where it can cause problems. Used the same thing on my STTNG cannon kicker before to keep the ball from bouncing off the ramp and back down the scoop.

This works 100% and makes TNA feel like a whole different game.

...and for Lionman’s sake turn your flipper strength back up!

Still fires out crazy fast too?

Hopefully. I am going to try the velcro as soon as I get home. I tried drop dead foam, and it didn't do much.

Drop dead foam works but the trick is you put a small square on the upper part of the scoop to push the ball down.

Completely semantic question…is this technically cheating? Does this create a game that wouldn’t be valid for a tournament setting?

I am curious about how this works in the pinball scene. I understand that all players who played your machine would have the same benefit, thus nullifying any advantage. I just happened to wonder how mods like this work in the world of pinball “rules”.

Not cheating at all. It helps a made shot actually register.

No different than if you hit a ramp and the ball always flies off it. Need to adjust things so the ball stays on the ramp so you don’t get screwed for making a shot.

Are there photos of what this game looks like with and without the plastic protectors or factory interior decals?

Kinda a funny situation, during multi-ball I seemingly lost track of one of my balls (never a good thing). Eventually once my available balls drained the machine started hunting for the ball as well. Thinking it might be caught somewhere, I started nudging the machine too. Then I noticed my right sling starting to machine gun. I was like WTH ... upon further inspection....hiding IN the slingshot!

1549305002807 (resized).JPEG

IIRC your slingshots are a little too powerful. Adjusting the power down slightly should prevent balls from entering the slingshots.

Yeah I haven’t noticed any difference that way.

After seeing the new Beatles thread about dimpling, how are the TNA's holding up? Who is the manufacturer that Stern uses versus Spooky? Curious!

Just joined the club and I want to experience TNA to it's fullest. I am thinking a Polk Sub is mandatory with this title? And if so are you guys just using an alligator clip attached to inside sub? Thanks in advance-super stoked to join the club!

Polk sub is not mandatory imo. I have external subs on all my Stern pins but not on my JJP or TNA pins.

I only have a sub on Tron-which is absolutely mandatory and Metallica-it adds a lot

The music of TNA to me screams for a Polk Sub? No?

I had the same issue but with the back left part of the playfield. I checked my board and did not notice any loose connections but when I power cycled my game the the lights came back. Hopefully its a simple fix. Currently on v1.3.0 code.

I don't think it needs it. I have a Polk sub on my two other Sterns and one JJP, but not on TNA. I would play with the amp settings first, then if you absolutely need more sound, consider an external sub.

Is production complete? I just got notice from Kayte that my TNT #549 is being boxed this week.

I agree TNA don't need no stinkin sub.
But before you go playing with your controls remember it is at your own risk.

The No Trash Cougar posted on how this should be done here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/33#post-4247418

Also reproduced so you can enjoy his pearls of wisdom without having to click away:

"I do not recommend screwing with your amp settings...... ....but.....
If your amp settings get screwed up, this is what I would do. Do this at your own risk as this has the potential to damage your amp and/or speakers if set too high. But please do not do this unless your amp settings get totally out of wack. Warning, this setup procedure is going to be loud, so warn the people around you.
Step 1: With the game on, take the backglass out and press the volume up or down button on the back of the LCD and bring the pre-amp volume down to 11. It will show on the screen. This is probably set high from the factory, but I found reducing this made the audio quality slightly better.
Step 2: Put the backglass back in.
Step 3: Turn every knob on your amp all the way down until it stops.
Step 4: Go to Music Test in the service menu and select reactor 3 by pressing the start button a few times.
Step 5: On the coin door, press the volume up button until it reaches 11.
Step 6: On the amp, turn the second knob from the left (sub crossover) up about 1/8 turn.
Step 7: On the amp, turn the treble just past half way up.
Step 8: On the amp turn the Bass knob up about 1/8 turn. Keep this low as this is controlling the bass output to the upper speakers and could damage them or the amp if set too high.
Here is where it is going to get loud...
Step 9: On the amp, turn up the sub volume very slowly until just before you hear a bit of distortion. This will be pretty loud.
Step 10: On the amp, turn up the Volume knob slowly until before you hear distortion or you feel that is the loudest you would ever have the machine. This is also the time where adjusting the treble up or down should be done.
Important note! If the amp cuts out during any of these last 2 steps, you went too high with the volume and/or Bass knob. Bring these back down so the amp does not cut out as this could damage it.
Step 11: On the coin door, turn down the volume back to a reasonable level and enjoy.
Again, please do this at your own risk. You can damage your amp and/or speakers messing with this stuff. I am not an expert audiophile or whatever it is called, I am just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous here. Don't blame me or Charlie if you break something.
Let me know if anyone has any better suggestions.
--Scott"

Looking back it’s been in production since ~ September 2017. (I’m not sure of actual date but early November people were getting their pins). That’s ~18 months average of 30 games per month.

I had a lot of distortion and clipping from the factory. Definitely needed to adjust the amp in order for it to sound good. What Scott described is basically how you would set up an amp when tuning a sub in the car. You turn it up super loud, adjust until you hear a bit of distortion, then back it off until it's clean again. This way you can maximize your amp at normal listening levels without any damage.

I'm guessing it was fewer games during those first several months then ramped up at the end. I think they said they were at around 14ish games a week near the end.

Also on the podcast they mentioned a manual for TNA. I was doing other things while listening, but it sounded like it was close to being complete.

"Close to complete" is not what I would have said, but it's getting there. I need to update some of the code specific pictures and settings. While i have the basics outlined, I am no Butch Peel (jjp manual designer) so dont get your hopes up for CAD drawings of each mech. I'll try to get something out for approval in the next couple of days (weeks) and we can see then how much improvement will be needed.

Fair enough.

Has anyone actually installed a Polk Sub to TNA? Did you hook up a sub and try it out and then decided it did not add anything? Wondering who has a Polk sub hooked up currently-and does it add to the sounds and music?

Just received my TNA yesterday! I'm looking to add the shaker and knocker, which I'm buying from pinball life, but I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy the expansion board assembly as well ( https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-knocker-and-shaker-expansion-board-assembly.html )

The descriptions on PBL say that each item includes everything needed, but searching this thread I've found images of machines with the expansion board installed.

Which it it? Thanks!

You don't need the board. Just the shaker and knocker kit. The board is a replacement OEM part that is already included in your machine.
--Scott

I had a cool crazy dream last night. I love it when I dream about pinball(I think I am excited for TNA), anyway I dreamed of building an enclosure like a small closet with door that closes and inside was a TNA with the walls full of speakers and woofers, and LED light panels all over the interior walls changing colors while playing TNA. The overwhelming bass would shake the entire enclosure and you could feel the experience(maybe could add shaker to floor that ties into machine shaker?). When I woke up-I thought wow that actually would be pretty cool- maybe an idea for Bangerjay for next Olympics?

A TNA pod-that will shake your teeth loose (;

-Make it so

Thank you!

Has any one succesfully tried this? How to you control volume through the headphones?

Buehler?

Wow! Has the game officially sold out of spots on the reserve list? I thought they were doing 550 games for now, though i could be mistaken.

Dimples but nothing like Stern - unfortunately big chips out of the playfield though.

The game has now moved to a "waiting list." When the list gets filled, then another run will be done from what I understand.

Hi All, just go my TNA delivered yesterday, and during our first games, I notice the scoring display not functioning at all (it looks like it is stuck in some type of start up mode). I reseated the connector on the left side of the display driver to the first display (which both ends of this are oddly loose, they don't snap in at all), and then all the connectors in the daisy chain of the displays 1-4. I also reseated the other connector on the display board which is on the right side of the board. I went two board over and I saw a smaller connector with red/black and I reseated that as well, it felt like it went in further than original.

However, the issue still exists. Here is a video:

Any advice? Thanks!

Is it new or bought second hand?
If new, phone Spooky